Battery Relocation
 

For those off you that have relocated your battery to the truck. Did you guys just ground the ground cable to the truck area or did you run the ground cable back up front with the Posistive cable? I was thinking off using a jumper to groung in the trunck and running the ground cable up front as well with the pos. cable.

most of the premade kits have you ground it in the rear frame area....

I relocated the battery from the Chevelle to the truck when the battery in the truck went bad...:lol: sorry I had to do it.

Ground from the battery to the frame/solid point in the back. I know guys who have run a 2nd ground cable up to the engine or trans to make sure the ground is good for starting & electronics. Use heavy wire, like 0/1. I’d personally run a ford style starter solenoid in the back, effectively killing the positive cable except on startup. And then run a 6g or 8g charge wire from the alt to the battery with a 12g fusible link.

i put a truck battery in my car?????????????

Just a side note. To be NHRA leagal you need to have a certified ( vented box ), or approved firewall and an exterior ON/OFF switch that kills the engine. if you plan to ever run the car at the track it will fail tech and it's not something they will normally let go.

i went from one camaro to the other when i had to move it :lol:

Oddly enough, the 1st battery i bought for my Z is now in my truck...hmmmmm....

Yeah Im using 1 guage cable. I bought a summit battery combo kit, comes with a optima battery, billet hold down, cable, terminals and a battery disconect switch.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SUM-CSUM20007
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum20007_w.jpg

mmm pretty kit you got there

how would you go about allowing that battery to vent wiht that kit?

They're SEALED GEL batteries, meaning they don't need to be vented. No liquids inside.

Only kind too...and I believe they're mentioned in the rule books as such.

I would strongly suggest looking at www.madelectrical.com. If you have the time, talk to Mark Hamilton about what you want to acomplish. IMO, the best way to wire it is basically the way Bonzo mentioned. Definitely use 1/0 cable and make sure that you ground to a clean (bare) part of the frame and gob on some tune-up grease. The Ford solenoid is a must. It's too cheap not to use one. If you have a mini or permanent magnet starter, you'll need to wire a relay into it instead of using the little jumper plate that comes with most kits. Otherwise, your starter will keep spinning long after the engine has started. Also, if you use the Ford 'noid, you should try and run the wires inside the vehicle to prevent wear.

IIRC, the rules book do not differentiate battery types.

I've been told that the plastic trim over the spare compartment, where these things are usually mounted in 3rd gens, serves to meet the 'or firewall' requirement. Why I am not sure. :rolleyes:

OK thanks for the info guys.

Optima batteries are NOT Gel batteries, this is one reason they WORK in cold weather. Just a sealed battery with a vapor reclimation design so there is no need to vent the battery. Because of the construction there is less acid in the cells too.

What a optima is considered im not sure.

The point tho, is that the NHRA doesnt care. ALL batteries have to be inside a box. Especially in a hatchback car like most of us have. In a third/fourth gen car, the only way to avoid the box and relocate the batt would be to buy one of those sheetmetal panels that a few companies make toseal off the rear of your car.

I bolted my summit alum battery box inside the spare tire well, and also run a optima yellow top.

Use the MOROSO sealed plastic box. I originally bought the SUMMIT kit and installed it. I got snaged at tech because of the no firewall and the box is not sealed. Also u can ground the 1/0 wire in the trunk. Also if u plan 2 drag race this car u have 2 also wire the cutoff switch that it also disables the alternator or the car will continue 2 run in the off position.