K Member, LCAs?
 

Thinking about adding a tubular k member and rear LCAs for the winter. I was looking at the BMR tubular k memeber. Can i use everything stock on there or do i have to change some things to make it work. If there is any better ones out there for the price let me know. I Pretty much want to leave the stock stuff in for now to keep a tight budget. Also with rear LCAs what do i want; Adjustable or non adjustable and if so what brand do you recomend? I want to get my car in the 11s and since i just rolled to 121k i know doing anything to the motor may be a waste. I def need suspension mods the only thing done is an adustable sphon torque arm. Thanks !!

pa racing makes a good k member. lightest one out there. toughest part will be routing the hard brake lines again. everything else should go together without a fight.

as for lca's, there are all the same thing. poly bushings are the quietest and rod ends are the loudest. adjustable helps fine tune the rear to being centered but isn't entirely necessary on a stock ride height car with stock size tires.

I found that the cheapy UMI/BMR LCAs work the best... and there ~90 new...

I havent found the need for a K member yet... I put the wheels up with stock ****...

How much weight savings will that k member provide?

if he is talking kmember and lca's in the same post, he probably means front lca's... :wink:

His post says rear LCAs, although if he's doing a K-member swap, he might as well get tubular front lower LCAs too (The stock uppers are lighter than all / most aftermarket tubular ones).

- Justin

stock uppers are lighter because they are flexible junk..

Well I figured if I do the k member now I could use the stock suff for now the. Do the front LCAs since there almost as expenisive as the k member. Looking for suggestions I know def need the rear I get some wheel hop. The rears are or cheaper then the fronts.

I know....but if all he's after is weight off the nose, there is no harm in leaving them there if he's not picking the fronts 3' off the ground every time he leaves the line.

- Justin

very true. especially if planning on ordering non-adjustable

Call us or stop by, we can put together a suspension that works for you.

i bought a umi k and put it together with no problems.. its not in the car yet... and i reused to stock front hard lines for the brakes... its not the prettiest doing it that way but youll never see it so who cares...

sorry i did mean rear lca's. i hear the lowers save about 3 lbs per side. dono bout uppers though, they are flimsy to begin with

stock lt1 k = 55 lbs
pa racing lt1 k = 20 lbs
umi/bmr/spohn lt1 k = 25+ lbs

those are mild steel numbers, not sure on chromoly

I made a set of rear control arms out of aluminum and the savings was 2pounds per side. I have a set of tubular upper arms that i bent when the arm barely touched the inner wheel well in compresion. I never bent a stock upper I liked to see some one bend one. There definatly stronger then given credit for.

i use BMR k members they are a very nice unit.

i have a BMR kmember and UMI upper and lower A arms. all together it drops 34-35lbs. although theres really not much weight difference if any in the upper a arms, the better bushings provide better, quicker movement as opposed to the stock crap. i got an awesome ddeal on mine from a friend so i bought uppers and lowers.

Only reason I did tubular upper front control arms cuase my bushings were shot...

this.

i used the whole bmr front setup for my camaro, i love it, solid piece, saved about 20lbs and also no issues putting it in.