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Originally Posted by 1QWIKBIRD
all this work was done by others (not that I would have checked the cam out, either), but believe me I'm gonna be laying some clay on the pistons and checking the valve to piston clearance prior to bolting the heads back on for good. Then we'll go from there depending on what I find. As for gasket thickness, I am using exactly what came off the motor when I disassembled it, Fel-Pro PN FEL-9284PT....so we'll see what that yields...
I'll be keeping ya posted. with all the gory details...
Chris
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a little trick you might want to think about -- we teach the guys in the shop when doing a cam piston to valve clearence check to use a checker spring and on overlap you can with all the valve train parts ( zero lash and gaskets does not have to be torqued just snug ) in place push down on the valve int / ext as the piston is coming up if you had a wheel on it between 5* / and 15* aprox depends on cam spec and you want to make contact with the piston and find the spot where the valve and the piston are the closest it will rock like a rocker arm if you are doing it correctly pressing it down and turning the motor slowly back and forth ( if i only had 3 hands it would be easy hahaha ) at its closest spot you can use a dial gague or a simple feeler gague to determin the distance place the feeler gague between the rocker and the top of the valve if you can get at least a .090 on the intake and .120 on the exhaust it will never hit --- you might want to be sure if you are going to do it -- the checker springs are about 10 bucks ( RC car shock spring have worked in a pinch one time hahahah ) jz