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IROCZman15 · 08-23-2021, 09:10 PM

Those of you who have followed my build thread over the past two years, know that I have always planned on putting a single stage wet nitrous system onto the engine. Here is a link to the build thread in case you want to read it or find all the engine/powertrain/car information. http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=69033 The goal for this car has always been a naturally aspirate mid-high 11's in the 1/4 mile , and then mid-high 10's on a single stage of nitrous. I am not a bracket racer, just simply a fella chasing a timeslip.

Anyways, the time has come for me to get this going. I am certainly no expert with nitrous, but I did run nitrous on the old 305 TPI engine for about 4 years. It made the 305 fun, but I basically just played around with it on the street, during autocross, and some drag racing. That kit was the NOS Powershot, which had 100 hp jets and 150 hp jets. Here is a link to the kit on Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/05151...QaAnd9EALw_wcB

So, I still have everything from this setup, and for my upcoming "version 1" of this upcoming nitrous system, I will be using most of the components. Instead of just drilling the engine with a 200 or 250 shot and having to buy new solenoids, I feel safer using the existing "smaller" solenoids for at least this fall 2021 season. I will be using the existing 10 pound bottle, its blow-down tube, the bottle pressure gauge and the main -4an fed line from the bottle. I also will be using my toggle switch setup that is mounted in the ashtray. I do not yet want a bottle heater, and I will never need a remote bottle opener since I can reach the bottle valve from my drivers seat. As mentioned, the NOS powershot solenoids are good for somewhere in the neighborhood of 150 hp (but I have read 175 can be done) so I will use those, along with the nitrous purge solenoid. I bought a NOS cheater wet-plate from a guy on thirdgen.org for $50 which was a heck of a deal. The wiring, and the relay will all be replaced with fresh new stuff, some colder spark plugs, and a new oxygen sensor with an O2 extender bung is also required. I am on the fence about using a fuel pressure safety switch, because I know it is a good idea, but mounting it in the tight area where I will have the fuel lines just might not work for me. I also do not plan to use a throttle mounted "window" activation switch, as I can control the nitrous both with my shifter mounted button AND also with the holley efi software.

I have been reading a lot about nitrous while using the holley sniper efi and I will get into some of that later. UNsure if I will be doing a progressive shot or not yet; maybe. This post is mostly for me to lay out the components and gameplan for everyone to look at, and then let me know their thoughts and technical opinions.

Bottle:
Use existing 10 pound NOS bottle with blow down tube.

Toggle switches:
Using the existing Nitrous Outlet ash-tray panel. I only plan to use the "master arming switch" and the "purge button". https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559860...tch-panel.html

Fuel Pressure safety switch:
undecided currently, but I will Probably get one
https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559952...-manifold.html

Oxygen sensor:
The nitrous guys that run the holley efi assure me that I will need a better O2 sensor as well as a special extender. (will add link later)

Lines/Plumbing:
I had used the braided -3an lines that came with the TPI kit on the TPI and they were good. They are way too long for my new setup. Instead of shortening them, I think i want to go with a hardline from the solenoids to the plate. Will do the -an flex lines to connect the fuel system to the solenoid, and to connect the nitrous bottle to the purge solenoid. But everything else I want to do with hardline.
- I am going to have to find a spot I am happy with to mount the solenoids in a spot that not only is visually appealing, but also serviceable and allows me to change jets easily. Therefore, instead of fighting with stainless steel lines at first, I might try to use some of my 3/16" (which is -3an) copper-nickel lines that remains from when I built my brake lines throughout the car. I have emailed Nitrous Express AND Nitrous Solutions who both told me that copper-nickle line is absolutely fine to use for hardline on a nitrous/fuel system. It will be much easier to bend, flare, and work with. However, they will not be shiny silver. If I can get the lines the way I want, maybe later I can re-create them with stainless. I will need to buy the proper fittings, tube nuts, and adapters. I also will need to buy a cheap-o 37degree flare tool, but I do have a tube bender already.
- Fuel line fittings will be needed too to T-off of the existing -8 fuel feed line. I will also re-install my Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge, and probably that fuel pressure safety switch, so it will be a cluttered area of fuel fittings and adapters.

Solenoid Locations/brackets:
This one is tricky, and right now I have about 3 possible options, but feel free to add in your suggestions. Number 1 priority is that the solenoids have to be mounted in a way that are visually appealing to me. I don't want to just have all sorts of brackets in random places with solenoids and lines hanging all over the top of the engine. No way. There are not too many choices that appeal to me, and maybe I could make my own later, but for now, I might use something like these and "drop-mount" them off the carb-mount studs. https://www.holley.com/products/nitr...parts/16523NOS Initially i wanted the solenoids all in that "valley" between the sniper and the thermostat housing. IT will get real tricky to make all the plumbing work that way, so I don't think its a realistic option. Also, the purge solenoid should be very close to the nitrous solenoid, so keep that in mind.

- Nitrous plate:
NOS cheater plate which i got for $50. It is capable of flowing up to a 250 hp wet shot, which is all I ever plan to put to this engine. link: https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/12500...AaAkwmEALw_wcB I will buy some spare 4150 carb gaskets too for fresh gaskets during the install.

Jets:
The olde TPI kit came with two set of jets 042 + 053 jets for the 100 shot, and 055 + 070 for the 150 shot . I am unsure if these jets will work for the cheater plate, because I read this link which tells me different jetting :
https://www.429-460.com/t25799-new-n...-cheater-plate

Nitrous Solenoid Driver (not a Relay) and wiring:
The NOS TPI kit came with a 30a/50a 12v relay which I am sure still works, but the Holley EFI system seems to require a high-current nitrous solenoid driver instead of a relay? interesting.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-111

Spark Plugs:
I have only ever used the Autolite 3924 spark plugs on this engine, as these were the engine builders recommendation. The next step colder would be an Autolite 3923 plug, so I think I will go with these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atl-3923

Chris Meyer of EFI systemsPro has a great article on all of this too:
https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...-nitrous-oxide

OR

08-23-2021, 09:10 PM	#1
IROCZman15 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Roxbury, NJ Posts: 2,101 iTrader: (8)	Nitrous system for the 406 sbc Those of you who have followed my build thread over the past two years, know that I have always planned on putting a single stage wet nitrous system onto the engine. Here is a link to the build thread in case you want to read it or find all the engine/powertrain/car information. http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=69033 The goal for this car has always been a naturally aspirate mid-high 11's in the 1/4 mile , and then mid-high 10's on a single stage of nitrous. I am not a bracket racer, just simply a fella chasing a timeslip. Anyways, the time has come for me to get this going. I am certainly no expert with nitrous, but I did run nitrous on the old 305 TPI engine for about 4 years. It made the 305 fun, but I basically just played around with it on the street, during autocross, and some drag racing. That kit was the NOS Powershot, which had 100 hp jets and 150 hp jets. Here is a link to the kit on Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/05151...QaAnd9EALw_wcB So, I still have everything from this setup, and for my upcoming "version 1" of this upcoming nitrous system, I will be using most of the components. Instead of just drilling the engine with a 200 or 250 shot and having to buy new solenoids, I feel safer using the existing "smaller" solenoids for at least this fall 2021 season. I will be using the existing 10 pound bottle, its blow-down tube, the bottle pressure gauge and the main -4an fed line from the bottle. I also will be using my toggle switch setup that is mounted in the ashtray. I do not yet want a bottle heater, and I will never need a remote bottle opener since I can reach the bottle valve from my drivers seat. As mentioned, the NOS powershot solenoids are good for somewhere in the neighborhood of 150 hp (but I have read 175 can be done) so I will use those, along with the nitrous purge solenoid. I bought a NOS cheater wet-plate from a guy on thirdgen.org for $50 which was a heck of a deal. The wiring, and the relay will all be replaced with fresh new stuff, some colder spark plugs, and a new oxygen sensor with an O2 extender bung is also required. I am on the fence about using a fuel pressure safety switch, because I know it is a good idea, but mounting it in the tight area where I will have the fuel lines just might not work for me. I also do not plan to use a throttle mounted "window" activation switch, as I can control the nitrous both with my shifter mounted button AND also with the holley efi software. I have been reading a lot about nitrous while using the holley sniper efi and I will get into some of that later. UNsure if I will be doing a progressive shot or not yet; maybe. This post is mostly for me to lay out the components and gameplan for everyone to look at, and then let me know their thoughts and technical opinions. Bottle: Use existing 10 pound NOS bottle with blow down tube. Toggle switches: Using the existing Nitrous Outlet ash-tray panel. I only plan to use the "master arming switch" and the "purge button". https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559860...tch-panel.html Fuel Pressure safety switch: undecided currently, but I will Probably get one https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559952...-manifold.html Oxygen sensor: The nitrous guys that run the holley efi assure me that I will need a better O2 sensor as well as a special extender. (will add link later) Lines/Plumbing: I had used the braided -3an lines that came with the TPI kit on the TPI and they were good. They are way too long for my new setup. Instead of shortening them, I think i want to go with a hardline from the solenoids to the plate. Will do the -an flex lines to connect the fuel system to the solenoid, and to connect the nitrous bottle to the purge solenoid. But everything else I want to do with hardline. - I am going to have to find a spot I am happy with to mount the solenoids in a spot that not only is visually appealing, but also serviceable and allows me to change jets easily. Therefore, instead of fighting with stainless steel lines at first, I might try to use some of my 3/16" (which is -3an) copper-nickel lines that remains from when I built my brake lines throughout the car. I have emailed Nitrous Express AND Nitrous Solutions who both told me that copper-nickle line is absolutely fine to use for hardline on a nitrous/fuel system. It will be much easier to bend, flare, and work with. However, they will not be shiny silver. If I can get the lines the way I want, maybe later I can re-create them with stainless. I will need to buy the proper fittings, tube nuts, and adapters. I also will need to buy a cheap-o 37degree flare tool, but I do have a tube bender already. - Fuel line fittings will be needed too to T-off of the existing -8 fuel feed line. I will also re-install my Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge, and probably that fuel pressure safety switch, so it will be a cluttered area of fuel fittings and adapters. Solenoid Locations/brackets: This one is tricky, and right now I have about 3 possible options, but feel free to add in your suggestions. Number 1 priority is that the solenoids have to be mounted in a way that are visually appealing to me. I don't want to just have all sorts of brackets in random places with solenoids and lines hanging all over the top of the engine. No way. There are not too many choices that appeal to me, and maybe I could make my own later, but for now, I might use something like these and "drop-mount" them off the carb-mount studs. https://www.holley.com/products/nitr...parts/16523NOS Initially i wanted the solenoids all in that "valley" between the sniper and the thermostat housing. IT will get real tricky to make all the plumbing work that way, so I don't think its a realistic option. Also, the purge solenoid should be very close to the nitrous solenoid, so keep that in mind. - Nitrous plate: NOS cheater plate which i got for $50. It is capable of flowing up to a 250 hp wet shot, which is all I ever plan to put to this engine. link: https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/12500...AaAkwmEALw_wcB I will buy some spare 4150 carb gaskets too for fresh gaskets during the install. Jets: The olde TPI kit came with two set of jets 042 + 053 jets for the 100 shot, and 055 + 070 for the 150 shot . I am unsure if these jets will work for the cheater plate, because I read this link which tells me different jetting : https://www.429-460.com/t25799-new-n...-cheater-plate Nitrous Solenoid Driver (not a Relay) and wiring: The NOS TPI kit came with a 30a/50a 12v relay which I am sure still works, but the Holley EFI system seems to require a high-current nitrous solenoid driver instead of a relay? interesting. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-111 Spark Plugs: I have only ever used the Autolite 3924 spark plugs on this engine, as these were the engine builders recommendation. The next step colder would be an Autolite 3923 plug, so I think I will go with these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atl-3923 Chris Meyer of EFI systemsPro has a great article on all of this too: https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...-nitrous-oxide OR __________________ 1987 IROC-Z - modified