So, not too much recently. with the race track shut down and roads "closed" the car sat for a few days. I did wash it and give it a polish/wax job too.
Got the drag radials mounted up and bolted onto the car. I took them out for a short "scuff" to break them in a little bit. they had no problem hooking up on the street at a moderate 3/4 launch. that made me happy.
two MINOR issues I am trying to sort out (since all the big stuff is done)
1. I had been trouble-shooting the PCV system for a while now and I think I have come up with the best solution. I have a single breather in one valve cover and a (oem gm tpi 305 replacement) spec one in my othe valve cover. I ran a -6 PTFE line (3/8" diameter, with black shielding over the braided wire) to a T fitting where it splits into TWO very short 3/16" lines and then both go into the two available 3/16 vac ports in the sniper. the 3/8" vac port in the sniper is occupied by my brake booster. SO far this combination has been the best one yet. and I am not experiencing any crankcase oil leaks or mist form the breather. I had been doing all this without a vacuum gauge, and I finally was able to get my hands on one. At idle, I am only getting a reading of about 8 on the vac gauge. My brakes work really good (99% of the time I dont feel any power brake loss), and pcv seems to work. So I am happy with that. For my cam/engine combination/ and needing no other vacuum related accessories, does 8 seem like a good value? I am inexperienced in this area, so I figured I would ask here. I am really trying to avoid installing any type of ugly vacuum pump or additional accessories, so if I am good where I am at.. that issue is settled.
2. TCC lockup:
My trans was built by ProBuilt Automatics a few years ago and is the top level (pro street elite). TCC lockup was present in 2nd 4rd and 4th and I discussed this with Dana and apparently this feature is ok, but I decided to bypass it by putting in an in-line toggle switch to CUT power to the TCC lockup when the switch is inactive, and to send power to the TCC and lock it up while cruising on the highway. I LIKE IT THIS WAY. I like being able to just flip the switch while on the highway and activate the lockup; and then to flip the switch again (or presss the brakes) and turn off lockup. Again, I like it this way. I am very un-interested in a self-contained automatically controlled lockup kit . I am aware that I can get one of those and then also use a toggle switch to control lockup, but its not what I want.
I am at the point this year where I am just wanting to drive the car and be done with the projects and work. Thats what I do in wintertime. Therefore I am not interested in dropping down the trans pan, installing a wiring kit and pressure switches, and then a relay, etc. No thanks; not now.
So, Since my transmission/lockup/TCC system worked the way I described it above, when the old 305 and the TPI ecm was in the car, that was good. now the ecm and 305 are removed. Holley sniper can not control TCC lockup. I want to use my switch. plain and simple. I bought a new pigtail (mine was cracked and missing the locking tab) for $9 on ebay. Did a lot of research online on many different websites. Looked at my shop manual schematics too. Since my setup can/had been locking up in 2nd,3rd, and 4th when activated, I figured it should still work this way, even with no ECM. (how did the tcc lockup not use a relay before, but now the aftermarket kits use relays) why stock no realy.. , jsut power from fuse panel??) so I took the new pigtail and connected it's purple wire (pin A) to the purple wire coming from my brake switch (and prior to that the <- toggle switch <-the fuse box <- power) Did NOT connect the green or tan wires since they both used to go to the oem ecm. *I have no use of the ALDL anymore and no SES light because no ECM, so that would eliminate the need for the TAN wire right??* *leaving the green wire to do....?
Did a test drive but sadly, no lockup.
****So im thinking I have to do something with one or both of the wires (tan and green) Unsure if they need to be grounded, spliced together, etc.
This is not the typical TCC lockup question, and I did search the internet, but came to no straightforward answer. I know an easy answer is to build/buy/fab up a whole relay kit and all that... but I see NO reason why I can't make MY unusual TCC configuration work with the 3 wires configured properly. I just dont know how to do the configuration. The TCC worked fine without a relay and different wiring before. shouldnt need much now to make it work. Just something to do with the tan wire and the green wire? but what?
thoughts?
otherwise, the car is good. I am waiting on the second revision of my GCF tune from teh tuner to be emailed to me. Car runs good, but he likes to do 5-6 revisions of the tune before I go heavy WOT
another thing I got to think about is somehow trying to get a knock sensor and knock warning indicator system into the car. like many gen 1 sbc setups, I have no knock sensor. I would like one.
pretend 5" side exit exhaust (just a joke photo)
