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Old 12-09-2020, 08:40 AM   #237
IROCZman15
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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I got an email back from him explaining the kit in more detail. Part of the email he explained what I should do about the master cylinder:

" With the brake setup you described, you should be able to use a smaller bore master cylinder.

I would suggest a 7/8" bore master cylinder with your setup. The smaller bore will give you higher line pressures and more clamping forces at the caliper over a larger bore master cylinder. The master cylinder in the KIT has 3/8-24 inverted flare fittings which will match your Wilwood prop valve, so you will need to run new lines down to the prop valve. The master cylinder outlets are on the driver's side of the master cylinder, so it will be away from the header heat.

I will guarantee my system and the size of the master cylinder. If for ANY reason you do not like the performance of the manual brake setup, you can return it for a full refund. No questions ask. I want you to be satisfied with what you bought from me."


So, thats good news. I'm glad to learn all of this. I am still partially un-interested in re-doing any of the brake lines, especially moving them so that I have unsightly holes (5 at least) in the sheetmetal. Overall, its not a major amount of work, but if I do it and the pads/calipers/components are unhappy, well, that would be a problem.

He attached the directions for the whole install kit, but I don't want to make a bad move by posting it here without his permission.


-edit* another thing I forgot to mention, is that when i want to line-lock the front brakes for a burnout (either at teh track or secret street location), the line-lock works, but the booster doesn't have enough vacuum in it to really hold the car back for more than a few seconds.* how would manual brakes work with this line-lock issue...* *for a vac pump, the vacuum would be there (22" of vac compared to my 7.5" of vac) so in theory, the line lock should be useful because the booster is getting proper vac for full power-assist.* right? do manual brakes even work with a line-lock?.. I will ask the guy who builds the kits




So, I am on the fence about the brake situation still. I have a thread on Thirdgen.org about this also, and one of the prevailing thoughts is to just keep using the car. The brakes do work good.. its just not "performance braking". At this point I have three options to choose from:
A. don't do anything just yet
B. vacuum pump for brakes during street and autox driving and then plumb the vac pump line over to the crankcase during drag racing to pull vac on the engine.
C. manual brake conversion, probably could work good, but I'm hesitant to make a bigger change to the system than I planned on.

I have to keep in mind that this summer I did suffer a blown out brake booster....and I don't want to keep doing that.

.



Aside from that, I am waiting a few more weeks, but I think I am going to probably go ahead with the 3.91 gears. If I can test fit a 28" tire off of a 3rd gens next year that will eventually be the route I will go for drag racing. Money budget being extra tight this year I want to look for the most "bang for the buck" modifications. Knowing my Nitto 555 tires are not the best for the street or autocross, I might have to put money towards 4 tires for better street/autoX driving. Not going to do exhaust this year that is for sure. Hopefully the roll bar and hopefully plumb the nitrous. Will probably do the gears here at my house since my neighbor has the tools and he has done some gear projects in his day. I have only helped on a 9" for rear before and back in 2003 I "helped" put in my richmond 3.73's with a mechanic. It will be a new thing for me to learn and do ... I am pretty sure that the MT Et Street SS street radial is up to the task of a better launch, but my street car suspension is the unknown variable..as to how well it will handle things. Perhaps I can bring my 1.64-1.66 sixty foot into the 1.5x zone and yank a small wheelie in the process.
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Last edited by IROCZman15; 12-09-2020 at 11:44 AM.
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