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Old 05-18-2021, 09:20 PM   #340
IROCZman15
10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
 
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,101
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Hubs on the rotors are clean and clear. In fact, from time to time I clean them and then I smear a little coat of silver anti-sieze on the hub part of the rotor hat too, as it helps with removal on some of my other vehicles where the wheels aren't removed all that often.
The hole in the wheel hub has plenty of clearance on the hub and dust cover area too, nothing too tight, but not sloppy loose either. Whenever I install any wheel on any car, I sit down under the wheel opening, roll the wheel into my lap, and use my legs to lift the weight of the wheel into place, and HOLD it there while I hand spin on the lug nuts. I used to use an old school speed-wrench too, and then I would get out the torque wrench. Fr about 20 years now, My process has never been problematic for wheels on any of my vehicles or others, so it is weird that very similar cracks developed on two wheels in a short timeframe. I had both wheels off the car just the day before, while I was installing the Lakewood 90/10 drag struts. Not saying that i examined the backside of them, but I did not see any signs of cracking then.

My rule of thumb for the past 20+ years has been that steel wheels get torqued to 80-100 foot lbs, and aluminum wheels 100-120 foot lbs. My original aluminum iroc wheels, my eagle alloy aluminum ones, my boze forged aluminum ones, and these jugs SSR wheels were all always torqued to this 100-120 spec. Looked at the JEGS SSR wheel tech sheet and they call for an astoundingly LOW 40 foot pounds. I'm sorry, but I could not bring myself to drive the car for a moment if I only torqued my front wheels to 40 foot pounds.
- scroll down to the "instructions tab" on this website and view instructions pdf. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/680251/10002/-1
and step #5 says approx 40 foot lbs.

weird

Anyways, I agree with wretched, I think they are fixable. Either by a professional wheel shop or by a good welder who can weld aluminum. Not just fill it, but pre-heat the aluminum wheel, grind open the crack, and structurally repair the crack. I am going to call jegs in a day or so, but I am assuming that since I am not the original purchaser of the wheels, they will just tell me, hey, nothing we can do for ya. I will make the phone call though. I really like the wheels and want to keep them for a few more years until I can get my dream drag race wheel/tire setup. Centerline Convo-Pro skinnies and rears. One day, one day.
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Last edited by IROCZman15; 05-18-2021 at 09:24 PM.
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