Jeep Ignition Issue

[Tru2Chevy]

So something broke / shifted in the column of my '96 Cherokee yesterday morning when trying to start it. I now can't turn the key back far enough to remove it, although it is "off". I also can't turn the key far enough forward to start it, the key only turns to the run position and stops. Had to jump the starter to make it home. I have never played with key tumblers and ignition switches before - anyone have any ideas what might have happened and what might be done to fix it?

Also - the steering wheel isn't locked with the key in the "off" position. No amount of key / steering wheel / brake / shifter wiggling or moving made a difference in how far I could turn the key.

No time to resize pics now....will do it later.....

Here's the key in the off position: http://www.njfboa.org/JustinImages/J...nition_Off.jpg

Key in the Run position: http://www.njfboa.org/JustinImages/J...nition_Run.jpg

- Justin

[greenformula92]

the ignition lock sylnoid took a crap...if youve never done one you can either dive in or let a shop take care of it....just take your time and try to find step by step directions and it should be good

[BonzoHansen]

Call Ian.

[crazyblazer87]

If you need any info about how to get the lock cylinder out i can try to send it to you right off of chrysler's website.

[crazyblazer87]

REMOVAL
1.Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.If vehicle has a tilt column, remove tilt lever by turning it counterclockwise.
3.Remove upper and lower covers from steering column Shroud Removal/Installation - Typical
4.Remove ignition switch mounting screws. Use tamper proof torx bit Snap-on TTXR20A2 or equivalent to remove the screws Ignition Switch Screw Removal or Ignition Switch Screw Removal
5.Gently pull switch away from column. Release connector locks on 7-terminal wiring connector, then remove connector from ignition switch.
6.Release connector lock on 4-terminal connector, then remove connector from ignition switch Key-In-Switch and Halo Lamp Connector
7.To remove key cylinder from ignition switch:
a.Insert key in ignition switch. Turn key to LOCK position. Using a TTXR20A2 or equivalent torx bit, remove key cylinder retaining screw and bracket Key Cylinder Retaining Screw or Key Cylinder Retaining Screw
b.Rotate key clockwise to the OFF position. Key cylinder will unseat from ignition switch Unseated Key Cylinder When key cylinder is unseated, it will be approximately 1/8 inch away from ignition switch halo light ring. Do not attempt to remove key cylinder at this time.
c.With key cylinder in unseated position, rotate key counterclockwise to the lock position and remove key.
d.With key cylinder in unseated position, rotate key counterclockwise to the lock position and remove key.
e.Remove key cylinder from ignition switch Key Cylinder Removal

[Tru2Chevy]

Seems the lock cylinder is the issue. Got it out this morning after getting my hands on a tamper proof T20 bit and found this:



I stuck the lock cylinder back into the ignition switch without the broken piece jamming up the works, and I now have full range of motion with the key, but it still won't start. I'm guessing that with that piece broken off it won't engage the start position in the switch. Anyone know what I have to move to which position on the column to test that?

Here's the column:


Here's the ignition switch itself (shown with the key in the "run" position):


I have a locksmith friend bringing me a new one later this afternoon, and he's gonna re-key it for me so I can keep the original key. Hopefully this is my only issue, as I really need to have this running by late tonight.

- Justin

[ZeroCool8891]

im having the same prob with my 94, but i dont really care much ill just replace the whole colume i have like 4 of them, oh well good luck and keep up posted.

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by ZeroCool8891

im having the same prob with my 94, but i dont really care much ill just replace the whole colume i have like 4 of them, oh well good luck and keep up posted.

'94 should have the Saginaw column, right (GM style key)? If so, your issue is likely the gear and rack that the lock cylinder turns. My locksmith buddy said that it's somewhat common on those to break a couple teeth off the gear and then you lose range of motion in the key due to the broken teeth jamming things up. Lock cylinders for those columns are cheap (usually $20 or less) but the gear and rack setup is supposedly pretty expensive to replace / have fixed.

- Justin

[Tru2Chevy]

New lock cylinder solved the problem

- Justin