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Old 01-16-2012, 04:23 PM   #1
HardcoreZ28
 
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Can't figure out no spark condition

Hey guys I'm trying to figure out a no spark condition on a friend's 64 Falcon with the inline 6 (2.8). I thought for sure the coil was toast as it looked like it had sat outside for 20 years and there was no spark coming from it. Replaced it this morning and still no spark from the coil.

The 12V coming from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil is there (as tested with a test light...not an ohmeter)

The negative side of the coil is hooked up to the condenser in the distributor.

Obviously the coil wire is hooked up properly...and I put a new one on this morning.

Is it possible I got a bad coil? One thing I did notice while probing around with the test light is while the ignition switch is on I show power at all of the terminals on the coil.....positive, negative, and the output for the coil wire. Should that be happening?
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:46 PM   #2
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Try ohming the wires out?
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:32 PM   #3
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The problem is before the wires....gonna test the primary voltage tomorrow from the ignition switch
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:35 PM   #4
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you got hot to the coil on crank, not just run?
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreZ28 View Post
I show power at all of the terminals on the coil.....positive, negative, and the output for the coil wire. Should that be happening?
with the wires disconnected from the coil what do you have?

If you have 12v on the negative terminal to ground, with things hooked up, you have no ground. The wire is broken, or has a bad connection somewhere between the two ends of the wire. granted a test light wont tell you this, you would need a test meter

do you have hot to the coil in "run" but not in crank? is that possible

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Old 01-16-2012, 06:59 PM   #6
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paul is there a porclin resistor like they used on jeeps if so check that allso you can check the ignition switch and all the fuses
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:21 PM   #7
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I have to check for power on crank. It's 13v on Run. Chris I assume you mean a ballast resistor. I need to check if it has one. Phil I'll have to check your ground theory. I don't know how the coil would actually ground.....through the bracket into the block possibly??
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:42 PM   #8
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Now that I think about it the 13V in run might be a bad sign. I think the voltage on Fords is supposed to be reduced to like 8 or 9 at the coil by an in line resistor. The coil even has something like "For use with external resistor" printed on it.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:43 PM   #9
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paul the ballast resistor i had to change that and the coil when i got the 49 chevy pick up running
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:46 PM   #10
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I wasn't referring to the ignition wires.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #11
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Just spitballing but I wonder if they use the same funky resistance wire setup that GM used. Might be worth checking that it gives the proper output.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:57 PM   #12
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Which wire are you referring to Bill....from the ignition switch to the coil? I'm getting power during cranking....just checked.
Also how exactly does the wire from the condenser under the cap going back to the coil actually work into the equation?
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreZ28 View Post
Which wire are you referring to Bill....from the ignition switch to the coil? I'm getting power during cranking....just checked.
Also how exactly does the wire from the condenser under the cap going back to the coil actually work into the equation?
Yeah, that's the one. On older GM stuff it can act funky after so many years and so many heat cycles.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:36 PM   #14
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Turns out eventhough they looked new, the points were bad.
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