Slotted vs. cross drilled vs. slotted n cross drilled

[12secondv6]

Brakes that is.....

Price is the same for any combo.
Either:
Slotted
Cross drilled
Slotted and cross drilled.

I've run slotted on my firebird and was very happy with them.

I've heard nightmares of cross drilled rotors cracking from one cross drilled hole to another.
I've heard no negatives about slotted.

These would go on a daily driver vehicle.

What are your thoughts??

[misterjuice]

slotted, cross-drilled, sideways drilled, cut, and disassembled. basically no brakes makes for a more challenging drive

[The Fixer]

Slotted FTW. You heard correctly, crossdrilled rotors can crack with repeated stress. The drilled ones are just that; drilled after they're cast, so it does weaken the metal from what I've read. Unless they are Porsche rotors, which are actually cast with the holes in them.

[jims69camaro]

solid castings, unless this is a full time autocross vehicle. i've never had a problem with solid castings and until god reaches down and grabs me by the ear, twists my arm and sends me to autozone, i won't buy anything else for normal driving.

i may get the slotted rotors for the '87, but i don't think there is enough opening in the wheels ('92 z28) to be able to showcase them effectively.

[NJSPEEDER]

there is minimal improvemnt in stopping from slotted or drilled rotors at street temperatures and speeds. you would be better served to spend money on a good set of brake pads that will provide a drastically improved effect on stopping distances and reduce brake fade in high speed stopping situations.
look into companies like porterfield, hawks, brake man, and oki bono for the best stuff.

[12secondv6]

Ok, thank you.

I've run slotted on the bird.... and did feel a difference.

I also ran hawker pads and they were very good..... but needed to be warm.... when they were cold they never grabbed when I was stalling the verter to 3200 rpm's at the line.

[BonzoHansen]

The question is did you change the rotors & pads at the same time? If so, then you can't really tell what caused the improvement.

[NJSPEEDER]

Originally Posted by 12secondv6

Ok, thank you.

I've run slotted on the bird.... and did feel a difference.

I also ran hawker pads and they were very good..... but needed to be warm.... when they were cold they never grabbed when I was stalling the verter to 3200 rpm's at the line.

look into porterfield pads. i forget what they called the compound i used when i autocrossed, but it had a ton of bite pulling out of the driveway in mid winter. just look on their compound list for the ambient temp ones, i think they called them cold stops or something like that at the time.
one warning, they dust like a sunuvabish when put through the paces hard.

[Batman]

I posted this up in Gen tech not too long ago, FWIW

While I agree with the above statement and that the Brembo blanks are the best for the buck I did shell out the cash for the Baer Eradispeeds (after I wrecked a set of powerlsots in a hurry) and when we had a test day at Visions of Speed (RIP ) They consistently stopped shorter by close to 10 feet then a much lighter Z28 with just blanks and the same Hawk pads and same set of Nitto 555 tires and WS6 wheels Only other major variable was Z28 Vs WS6 suspension, which probably made some difference. Take it FWIW, I have a feeling it is more in the material then the surface but I have had them now for 24K and more then 200 passes at the track and they still look almost new. The staggering difference was after the rotors heated up. When we were testing at the airport we did 2 tests that really showed a gap in between the styles (or at the very least the company and quality of the rotor itself). We did a test from 0-140-0-60-0. The 140 was not measured because it is obviously a long stop but the results we got really showed a difference

Brembo blanks on a 3500# Z28 with Hawk pads
60-0 105 feet
the 60 to zero after the high speed stop 122 feet

Baer Eradispeeds on a 3750# WS6 with Hawk Pads
60-0 96 feet
The 60 to zero after the high speed stop was 98 feet

I think the major difference was the crossdrilled/slotted rotor being able to dissapate the heat faster then the solid blank. I don't think gas build up had anything to do with it and I also think the standard 60-0 test is just that the baer is a higher quality piece of material (and for the price difference the better be). So you can take the info for what it is worth but the blanks were spotted a 250# weight advantage (roughly) and got their butts kicked by the drilled and slotted rotor. My pick? well that depends on what ypu are doing. Chances are you aren't going to face a situation like above unless you race, and even then the blanks will probably be up to the task for most sunday racers but I wouldn't trade my Baer's for anything without getting a big brake kit.

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

look into porterfield pads. i forget what they called the compound i used when i autocrossed, but it had a ton of bite pulling out of the driveway in mid winter. just look on their compound list for the ambient temp ones, i think they called them cold stops or something like that at the time.
one warning, they dust like a sunuvabish when put through the paces hard.

R4S

[Blacdout96]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

look into porterfield pads. i forget what they called the compound i used when i autocrossed, but it had a ton of bite pulling out of the driveway in mid winter. just look on their compound list for the ambient temp ones, i think they called them cold stops or something like that at the time.
one warning, they dust like a sunuvabish when put through the paces hard.

Was that in metallic or ceramic style cause I run ceramics and are great, but am looking for an improved set of pads when I get time to get those LS1 brakes off ebay. I heard of a company whos pads when they dust, have like metal flakes and scratch the h3ll out of your rims, and I dont want that. Ive always ran ceramics on all my cars, and never had a problem, nor a noise.

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by Blacdout96

Was that in metallic or ceramic style cause I run ceramics and are great, but am looking for an improved set of pads when I get time to get those LS1 brakes off ebay. I heard of a company whos pads when they dust, have like metal flakes and scratch the h3ll out of your rims, and I dont want that. Ive always ran ceramics on all my cars, and never had a problem, nor a noise.

My R4S pads do not seem to be dusting too bad. I look again in the AM.

[jims69camaro]

ceramic pads are not for street driving. no wonder you had trouble getting them to lock up when cold...

[foff667]

Replaced my slotted rotors with stocker blanks without issue, they stop similarly from what I can tell. Unless they are cheaper than stock blanks I wouldn't bother.

[AliWantsNss]

I have drilled and slotted cause I like how they look. I run Hawk brake pads with them which work well, but are a little noisy.