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Old 09-09-2015, 06:43 AM   #1
LS1ow
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Brake System Woahs

first off, sorry its a not an F-body but ive exhausted my brain trying to figure out what the issue is so i come to you guys for help.

2003 Ford Explorer V6.

Right front calipers were completely blown out. Caliper pistons pushed out and everything. So im doing front pads and rotors as well as replacing the caliper.

Do all that, throw the caliper on and bleed the brake system, No pedal.

Bleed the system 4-5 more times, still no pedal.

Next step, replace master.

Replaced the master and bled the system 2-3 more times, Still no pedal. Goes right to the floor even when the truck is off. There is a little bit of resistance, but itll go straight to the floor. Engine On or Off.

Any ideas on what to look for next? i gave it a once over for leaks and didnt notice any.

I know some guys on here are techs, and some may even be ford techs. Any one ever deal with something like this?


All help is much appriciated. Thank you.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:59 AM   #2
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you had fluid at the calipers when you went to bleed them ?

I've had cars with water in the boosters cause no brakes before, normally you would think if the boosters fail you would have no assist and a stiff pedal but like i said i've had a few were i had no brakes driving the car.

you replaced the calipers ? or is the piston completely hung up ?
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:17 AM   #3
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Id go with air in the abs block. I believe there's a special procedure and tools needed to bleed the abs properly.
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:40 AM   #4
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Are you bleeding front and rear? Are you getting strong, solid fluid from the bleeders? What shape are the rears in?
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:01 AM   #5
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Fluid at all 4 calipers when i bleed them. Front calipers were replaced completely. Rear calipers are in rough shape but appear to be function fine.

and yes, bleeding front are rear. Pass Rear-Driver Rear- Pass Front- Driver Front.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:41 AM   #6
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How are the rear brakes? Rotor thickness? Might want to let them gravity bleed a bit and try again.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V View Post
Id go with air in the abs block. I believe there's a special procedure and tools needed to bleed the abs properly.
This was my problem. I chased air in the system for a long time before I cycled the abs properly. Pedal is hard as a rock now.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:28 PM   #8
Jersey Mike
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Your bleeder valve is facing upwards right?
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Good. He microwaved my phone 6 years ago, i hope his intake erupts.
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:44 PM   #9
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Pressure bleeding or using the pedal?

But I'd try gravity bleeding first then a pressure bleeder if you have access.

But yeah you may have some air getting trapped around the valves from the abs when you replaced the master.

Only thing that made me think otherwise was you had the issue before the master replacement
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Last edited by MyFirstZ; 09-10-2015 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:23 AM   #10
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Knowing this pal, he prob let the master cylinder go bone dry.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
Knowing this pal, he prob let the master cylinder go bone dry.
affirm lol


Rebled the master out of the car and then bled the system using our audi gun we have at work, works perfectly now.


thanks for the help guiz
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:38 AM   #12
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Numbnut.
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Good. He microwaved my phone 6 years ago, i hope his intake erupts.
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