I need a mechanic who is experienced with Fbody cars

[Mr.FIRD]

I had no clue where to put this...

Mods: Feel free to move it if it's in the wrong category.

Alright, So I got the motor in my 95 formula. The motor is a 96. the harness is a 95 (OBDI HARNESS OBDII MOTOR/SENSORS)

It starts up. If you force fuel to the throttle body. Not sure if the fuel pump is shot or if anything should be plugged up that should be and that's why it's not starting without being forced to start via throttle body/intake.

Also some the sensors have to be switched out and I don't know how to mess with the harness at all...

It also needs a brake job most likely and tires put on. As for everything else? Not sure what has to be done. The cruise control needs to be removed as it is for a 96 automatic. this car is a 95 with a 6 speed.

Looking for someone with the right equipment and knowledge.

Car is located in millville. Can work out a price. I would imagine this job won't be too difficult but i just don't have the tools or knowledge.

Thanks for reading. If your interested please post/message me.

EDIT: oh almost forgot. the cooling system has to be hooked back up.

[BonzoHansen]

Wow, you rattled off a lot of work - $$$$. Hope you are ready to pay per-hour time as well as being able to drop it off until they are done. And no cooling = the car does not run? Woo-hoo, that will chase a lot of shops away.

You can try Josh @ JS, he might be willing to look at it. Maybe.

Who did all this conversion work that got it to this state of affairs?

[S.J.SLEEPER]

I would have offered... but only if I was doing the conversion. Now it will be a "project" for someone jumping into it @ the end. Always is a bunch of lil stuff that adds labor & parts which always winds up being hassle justifying to customer the additional $ over what is quoted.

This is a Time & Materials type job!!! If someone gives you a quote, expect it to be really high to cover unseen parts & labor, or if given a reasonable quote you should expect additional charges in the end..

[JL8Jeff]

Do you still have your old 95 motor with all the sensors that might need to be swapped over?

[Mr.FIRD]

Originally Posted by JL8Jeff

Do you still have your old 95 motor with all the sensors that might need to be swapped over?

Nope I bought the car for a steal without the motor just everything else plus harness. Me and my naigbor will be looking into.the fuel problem today.

If we can get the car running on its own rest should be cake stat tuned... And cross them fingers...

Also I got the right coil for it. The 95 coil ignition module

Would be nice if I had a donor motor lol

[sweetbmxrider]

Have you verified fuel pressure? Have you tested for injector pulse?

[JL8Jeff]

Turn the key to the start position(don't crank it over) and listen at the back of the car to see if you can hear the fuel pump running to pressurize the system. It might not even be getting power to the pump if something isn't plugged in. It could also be the momentum switch (or whatever it's called) that shuts off power to the fuel pump if it thinks the car has been in an accident. I forget where that is though. Was the car bounced around at all while work was being done, it might have triggered that?

Another thought, are you still using the original key in the ignition? It might be the VATS system not letting the fuel pump run.

[BonzoHansen]

4th gens have 'momentum switches'? sounds like a ford thing. I thought GM used the OPS as a reference, and overrode that in start. But I'm not schooled on LT1 cars.

[Mr.FIRD]

Originally Posted by JL8Jeff

Turn the key to the start position(don't crank it over) and listen at the back of the car to see if you can hear the fuel pump running to pressurize the system. It might not even be getting power to the pump if something isn't plugged in. It could also be the momentum switch (or whatever it's called) that shuts off power to the fuel pump if it thinks the car has been in an accident. I forget where that is though. Was the car bounced around at all while work was being done, it might have triggered that?

Another thought, are you still using the original key in the ignition? It might be the VATS system not letting the fuel pump run.

No sounds from the fuel pump. And its the key that came with the car me and the naigbor discussed this just now that it could be the "key" anti theft system.

Funny when I crashed the white car it start right up. Infact the cop got in it and tried to driveit out of the ditch with a bent tire rod lol

[V]

afaik, f bods dont have "inertia" switches like ford.

[JL8Jeff]

Check the fuses to see if there are any blown out. You might want to check the "chip" in the key to see what the resistance reading is just to make sure it's still functioning properly. Make sure all the wiring is connected to the shifter and transmission, the computer might think it's in gear and won't allow you to start it. For some reason, I thought the F-body's had inertia switches.

[BonzoHansen]

swap harness and other listed fun would make me suspect vats too. time to by pass that

[sweetbmxrider]

If the motor turns over (aka the starter works) then you most likely aren't having a vats issue. Being a swap car, the pcm may not enable the injectors if the theft deterrent relay doesn't see the right signal. That can be tuned out and the key can be bypassed real easy. I am 99% sure the fuel pump still primes even if its the wrong key or vats issue. Is the security light lit? The dead pedal where you left foot rests houses the fuel pump relay. Take the trim off and see if it clicks when you turn the key on and then clicks again after 2 seconds. This will tell you if the pcm is commanding fuel pump prime. The big red wire is the power feed going to the pump. See if that has power on it out of the relay.

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

4th gens have 'momentum switches'? sounds like a ford thing. I thought GM used the OPS as a reference, and overrode that in start. But I'm not schooled on LT1 cars.

We don't have anything like that stuff.

[S.J.SLEEPER]

Really simple to diagnose... Think of the 4 major elements you need to run:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression

getting air into intake via air intake housing? yes does fire up & run

Getting spark? yes does fire up & run

Compression? yes does fire up & run

Getting Fuel? only when force fed....

diagnose:
check for fuel pressure when key turned to start position: should be 40psi +
no???
check for 12v+ @ fuel pump
no???
check fuel pump fuses, & relay for voltage & so on...

If you Have voltage @ pump, then make sure pump is turning on, if not then replace pump

Have fuel pressure....yes????
Then install noid light on injector plug, crank engine,while cranking, look to see if you have injector pulse.

Have injector pulse....No???
Then check inj fuse, check all harness connections, etc..
If you have Injector pulse, then may be a timing,opti, or ecm problem

Don't overlook the obvious.... it could be as simple as a fuel filter being completely plugged up!!!

[Mr.FIRD]

Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER

Really simple to diagnose... Think of the 4 major elements you need to run:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression

getting air into intake via air intake housing? yes does fire up & run

Getting spark? yes does fire up & run

Compression? yes does fire up & run

Getting Fuel? only when force fed....

diagnose:
check for fuel pressure when key turned to start position: should be 40psi +
no???
check for 12v+ @ fuel pump
no???
check fuel pump fuses, & relay for voltage & so on...

If you Have voltage @ pump, then make sure pump is turning on, if not then replace pump

Have fuel pressure....yes????
Then install noid light on injector plug, crank engine,while cranking, look to see if you have injector pulse.

Have injector pulse....No???
Then check inj fuse, check all harness connections, etc..
If you have Injector pulse, then may be a timing,opti, or ecm problem

Don't overlook the obvious.... it could be as simple as a fuel filter being completely plugged up!!!

Thank you very helpful I will show this to my neighbor. We didn't get a chance to mess with it last night. the battery was dead and needed to be charged from sitting for 5+ months.

No security light is on the dash... No lights at all. I don't think I hear the fuel pump building any pressure. but will have to check it out...

[sweetbmxrider]

Well check again with the freshly charged battery. You should see all of the lights turn on during bulb check (when you first turn the key to run)

[Mr.FIRD]

Ok guys. There's fuel pressure from the pump... And spark.... The injectors are not working...

[The_Bishop]

This is an LT1, right? Check the opti harness for breaks, could be a bad opti. No opti = no crank signal = no injector firing if I remember right.

[sweetbmxrider]

But it has spark. I would say get a mail order tune with the vats removed along with anything else you want. That or try swapping keys with the old car or wire in the correct resistor if you know the old key's resistor.

[BonzoHansen]

can't you bypass vats w/o a retune?

[S.J.SLEEPER]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

can't you bypass vats w/o a retune?

yes!!!

[sweetbmxrider]

Yes, options two and tree. fiddy.