blowing alternators?

[Phoenixfire1989]

So, my 86 has had this issue for quite a while. I'm unsure if it's because everything is manually run on the car now instead of being hooked to a computer. The car has a charging issue. In the past year, i've replaced 3 alternators. I had i think a 78 in it, which was low. I have a 94 in it now, but the ac compressor drops my gauge down to around 11 from 14. The engine no longer kicks up the idle when i run more things..and the car idles low around 500rpms. I know the gasket around the carb was leaking..so i'm sure it's not helping. Anyone have any suggestions?
Car has a 350 Chevy crate. Not sure if the sound system might be hurting it. I have 2 amps, and a sub box in the back. The lights dim every time the bass hits

[greenformula92]

As I remember correctly the only way a carbed engine will kick up under a load is by a little soleloind that just kinda pushes the thottle open a little bit. its usually located right in front on the throttle linkage. Carb gasket is a piece of cake. PM me if you need/want it done.

You shouldn't be going through alternator's like that but it should have nothing to do with having a ECM or not. You may be burning them up because the engine isn't kicking up and putting the alternator under a heavy strain. It's certainly possible. Or something is shorting out somewhere.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

With two amplifiers and a low output alternator it isn't uncommon to have the lights dim when the volume is up..

You are probably burning the alternators out because of the constant overload from the extra electrical draw of the additional components.

Most people that run a high output stereo will also run a high output alternator and a capacitor. The higher output alternator will keep up with the demand without overheating and the capacitor will clean up the supply so the voltage won't dip when the stereo is turned up and the bass hits.

The idle "kick up" (much like lock up) was a funtion of your computer which is no longer in use. It mainly worked with the A/C and power steering. You can turn the idle up a little manually to help this, I wouldn't go further than 800 in neutral being that your car has a tight torque converter to avoid the car slamming into gear and trying to "drive itself" without your foot on the gas.

[townsend]

get a cs144 alternator for a 1993 cadillac fleetwood, it has the built in instant exciter on it. your gonna have to swap your v-belt pulley to it, and also get a mr. gasket longer style single bolt alt bracket, or modify your stock one for use. use a 2 gauge lead from the alternator output to the battery positive. also do a 2 gauge or 0 gauge ground for battery, and the same from one of the heads to the body. make sure to use good wire and sand your connections to bare metal. i would also recommend a cap for your amps.

my 87 actually burned up some ecm stuff and a fuel pump because of the constant low voltage from my dinky stock style alt and massive amp draw from the fans/stereo going on at the same time. once i did this upgrade i never had any problems, not even lights dimming with the fans on headlights on and stereo bumpin.

if you wanna try this mod ill find the link that i used for my install.

[3.4 grape of wrath]

What condition is your battery in? A bad or incorrect battery will also cause the alternator to burn up.

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by 3.4 grape of wrath

What condition is your battery in? A bad or incorrect battery will also cause the alternator to burn up.

Battery is a brand new diehard

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE

With two amplifiers and a low output alternator it isn't uncommon to have the lights dim when the volume is up..

You are probably burning the alternators out because of the constant overload from the extra electrical draw of the additional components.

Most people that run a high output stereo will also run a high output alternator and a capacitor. The higher output alternator will keep up with the demand without overheating and the capacitor will clean up the supply so the voltage won't dip when the stereo is turned up and the bass hits.

The idle "kick up" (much like lock up) was a funtion of your computer which is no longer in use. It mainly worked with the A/C and power steering. You can turn the idle up a little manually to help this, I wouldn't go further than 800 in neutral being that your car has a tight torque converter to avoid the car slamming into gear and trying to "drive itself" without your foot on the gas.

If i have to replace it again..i think the next output higher is 114. Hopefully it will be another 6 months atleast =)

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by greenformula92

As I remember correctly the only way a carbed engine will kick up under a load is by a little soleloind that just kinda pushes the thottle open a little bit. its usually located right in front on the throttle linkage. Carb gasket is a piece of cake. PM me if you need/want it done.

You shouldn't be going through alternator's like that but it should have nothing to do with having a ECM or not. You may be burning them up because the engine isn't kicking up and putting the alternator under a heavy strain. It's certainly possible. Or something is shorting out somewhere.

Thanks mike! i actually had polar bear help with it, but it refused to seal with a new gasket. Could be bowed maybe from the extreme heat or something. We did the inevitable and tried to seal it with silicone, but i haven't tested it yet because of the rain/lazyness =)

[JSPERFORMANCE]

I know Powermaster makes a 140amp.. They may also have one even bigger than that..

[BonzoHansen]

i believe they make throttle kickers for carbs. push the idle up when the AC comes on.

might also check size and condition of battery cables and grounds. amazing the issues poor cables can cause.

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE

I know Powermaster makes a 140amp.. They may also have one even bigger than that..

Thanks josh. If i blow another, i'll check it out

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

i believe they make throttle kickers for carbs. push the idle up when the AC comes on.

might also check size and condition of battery cables and grounds. amazing the issues poor cables can cause.

never heard of throttle kickers..i'll have to do some research

[BonzoHansen]

http://www.holley.com/46-74.asp

fast idle solenoids

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

http://www.holley.com/46-74.asp

fast idle solenoids

I have an edlebrock performer Q-jet... don't know if that would work, especially without a computer? The computer is still in my car..it just seems very little is actually hooked up to it

[BonzoHansen]

i just found a sample. search the edelbrock site. idle solenoid does not need computer. there were carbs and cars with AC long before computers.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Your car may have a lead off of the a/c compressor trigger that would have gone to the kick up solenoid.. If so that should still be useable..

[JSPERFORMANCE]

But if the alternator can't keep up with the electrical load you will still be overworking it..

[Phoenixfire1989]

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE

Your car may have a lead off of the a/c compressor trigger that would have gone to the kick up solenoid.. If so that should still be useable..

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE

But if the alternator can't keep up with the electrical load you will still be overworking it..

Oh, i'm sure i'll be replacing the alternator again at some point. The soleoid, i wouldn't even know what to look for. AS you saw, most of the car is there..alot of things were just unhooked and such. As for the ac, i don't think it worked when i bought the car so i never really tried turning it on. I know with the setup i have, the compressor kicks on just going over the controls to heat. the idle drops drastically only when i turn the ac on for now. It's something with the compressor and the way it's hooked up that's causing the issue. With everything else on, it's been holding for now around 13