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Old 05-21-2021, 05:10 PM   #351
The_Bishop
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In my mind, you need to consider two factors:

How much is your car worth to you?

What did those wheels cost?

Personally, I'd scrap 'em. Can they be fixed? Probably. Will they ever be 100% trustworthy again? Nope.

Those spacers aren't helping anything, either. If you need those spacers, then what you really need is a wheel with the correct offset to replace what you have now.
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:59 PM   #352
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Yup, I get it. but think about how many OTHER thongs could fail or come loose on a car which could cause havoc. Especially a modified car built by a hobbiest like me. A simple 0-ring could go out on a fuel injector (tom bailey), A brake line could blow out, a bizarre ignition issue could wreak havoc on the engine (been there done that September last year), so I am not going to go full blown panic mode about a crack in a wheel. I was more after the scientific and tech info related to how salvageable it could be.

I will eventually bring em to a place for evaluation such as: Kenvil welding which Larry suggested, or USA wheels in Fairfield, or Harry of Harry's Hot Rod Shop in Dover (nearby Fania roofing). My neighbor who passed away from Covid in April of last year was a professional welder his entire life, he would have been great to chat with and practice welding with. RIP John

Just yesterday afternoon, I fired up the TIG welder for the first time I have ever used a Tig welder. Was pretty cool! I will have to get used to the action of using a foot pedal and feeding a rod with a glove on. I get free scrap metal (steel and aluminum) at work and I am all excited to practice as much as I can. I know I am not experienced enough to do it now, especially on cast aluminum like you guys discussed, because it is very tricky. But, perhaps I'll develop the necessary skill to attempt the project. Since I am not yet an accomplished welder, this is why I have opted to have a pro-welder install the roll bar in June. I'm not one to back down on a challenge or be hesitant to improve my mechanical abilities, but a roll bar setup is out of my league now. Going to keep practicing on scrap metal, and then move on to building a rolling cart for the welders and gas cylinders.







As for the spacers, I only use them to clear the brakes on these drag wheels. I had my Boze Forged wheels built to my backspacing specs and they are spot on. The Jegs wheels were a damn good deal from a good buddy so I was lucky to get them that cheap and use them for many drag days and street driving. Having a customs et of drag wheels is not in my price budget now as I have money budgeted for roll bar, and othe stuff mentioned above.


also cool:

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Old 05-22-2021, 09:32 AM   #353
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Honestly, this is something you should be in a full panic over. That crack can be welded over, but unless you grind out the entire crack it will still be there once you, cosmetically, weld over it.
Isn't your car worth more than some cheap wheels? Is it worth the risk of one of them coming apart at speed and totaling your car?

I am not a welder, but I do OK at it. Personally I wouldn't even attempt to do a cast wheel as a first TIG project. It's cast, it's dirty, it's not flat and you'll need to push that welder pretty hard to get enough heat into that flange.
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Old 05-22-2021, 09:55 AM   #354
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Still
Not
Panicking

These aren’t daily driver wheels on a daily driver and I don’t do the king of the hammers competition with this car. I have plenty of time to decide what do to and how to go about this.

Of MUCH more concern than the cracked wheels, is my
High oil pressure issue that has been present since September/October of last year. Willing to discuss it if the discussion is tech related
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Old 05-22-2021, 05:52 PM   #355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
Still
Not
Panicking

These arenít daily driver wheels on a daily driver and I donít do the king of the hammers competition with this car. I have plenty of time to decide what do to and how to go about this.

Of MUCH more concern than the cracked wheels, is my
High oil pressure issue that has been present since September/October of last year. Willing to discuss it if the discussion is tech related
Glad you aren't panicking lol IMO those guys are blowing the cracked wheel out of proportion. This is NJ, the roads are dog **** on their best day, cast or forged wheels are no match and they are repaired regularly. Get your practice in, clean it up nicely, lay a nice bead.

Did you post about the high oil pressure issue before? It doesn't ring any bells. With your meticulous maintenance, I don't think I'd worry about it much.
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 05-23-2021, 08:17 PM   #356
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I had success today getting the wheels repaired. I am now ready for Drag Week 2021 and the Pikes Peak hill climb.








(joking obviously)




Yea, as for the oil pressure, I had noticed it all of a sudden became higher than usual just on my last Test and Tune day at island in October of last year. I did my research, and called the engine builder as well as Melling (oil pump) tech support. Both of them said its on the borderline of being problematic, but to keep an eye on it. So I have kept an very watchful eye on it for sure. I have verified the reading with an auxiliary Maddox pressure gauge and the dash needle is correct. I initially typed a little bit about this on the thread where I got an oil analysis test-kit done, just to make sure everything was healthy in the engine as 2020 came to a close. http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=69185

I have read a whole ton of internet stuff about high oil pressure. The consensus is that the check valve in the pump is probably stuck closed. (not the check valve bypass valve in the filter) I don't have oil leaks, and when I did the intake manifold repair I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary in the valley tray, under the valve covers, or in the oil or oil filter after I did an oil change when the intake manifold was back on. It is a Dart SHP block, so it has priority-main oiling, meaning that the upper valvetrain could be effected from an oil pressure. Would really suck to have to drop the oil pan just to check for a POSSIBLE "stuck check valve" and find out that it is something different.

Might hookup the auxillary oil pressure gauge again and take a video of cold start, cold warmup, and driving around to help explain what I am seeing, but at idle its 70psi, and while driving and wot it floats above the dash gauges readout of 80, so I am guessing it is in the 95-100 range. It is a melling high-volume pump; not a melling high pressure pump.



I installed the lakewood 90/10 struts a week ago and they definitely helped with the weight transfer of the car at launch. I did not even have a hint of tire spin, but I still can't get the nose airborne, likely because I can only leave from idle or high idle, or up to 1,800 rpm. From m research, nobody makes a great transbrake for a 700R4, and I am skeptical of going that route anyways.

I did make a video about the Lakewood 90/10 front strut install, just because i was impressed with how quickly the struts sprung up. To skip past my chattering, you can start the video at 7:30 mins in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys_FwFkD7hI
- However, since I am not drag racing for a few months, I already took the struts off and put the Koni yellows back on the car, along with the front swaybar.


This weekend there was a big fundraiser car show-cruise event here at Lake Hopatcong, with the Cops-n-Rodders club. They had about 400-425 cars that metup and drove around the lake. Tons of spectators along the route, the mayors and police and firefighters all worked to block off roads and ENCOURAGED BURNOUTS ! There were certain spots along the way where everyone was frying the tires; seriously almost everyone! I did 12 burnouts along the way, some of them using the line-lock an going from 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd gear, right next to police and spectators. Way cool!
















- I was always curious to see if my brake lights were bright enough in the pure daytime sunlight after spray-tinting the rear tail-lights, and this photo answers my question
-Also, just moments after this photo, I did a good burnout directly under that american flag. Someone got videos from far far away of this burnout spot, my car comes across the screen at about 20:05 in the video.....which was apparently filmed with a very bad camera! link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bRA6vtSBYY&t=1247s


lastly, on the way home from the cruise, I stopped by the local concrete quarry to weigh the car as it sits in full street mode. This is with the whole sound system in, empty nitrous bottle, full full tank of fuel, full interior. Weight with me in the car is: 3760 and without me is 3560. Seems legit, as I weigh about 194 pounds. I weighed the car now to find out what it weighs pre-roll-bar-installation. Last time I weighed the car last year was right before a test-and-tune dragstrip event and the car was stripped down in the interior and if I remember correctly, it was 3320 pounds.




Thats it for now.
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Old 06-08-2021, 08:06 PM   #357
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A buddy of mine sent me these two photos that someone random posted online from that Lake Hopatcong cruise:








Got a great deal on a used NOS nitrous cheater plate from a guy on thirdgen.org. Will clean up the gasket/mounting surfaces and probably paint the outsides of it silver to match the theme of my engine.





The car is currently at the Fabrication shop for the roll bar install. He will be starting on it this week, as the swing-out pieces just arrived.



I ordered the SFi padding for the main hoop, and not sure if I will use the non-SFI padding anywhere else, but I got two pieces anyways since they were only about $5 each. I got this cool 2-part paint, with a button on the bottom that releases an activating agent. Just need to pickup some good etching-primer.


Also, when the car gets back, I need to replace the radiator. It has had a very small pinhole leak somewhere in the lower area of the core/rows, and I can not visibly see it. Champion has LIFETIME FREE REPLACEMENT on these radiators. I have been in contact with them for many months, waiting on an EXACT replacement of my 2-row AE951 radiator, but they have not had any in stock in months. Sadly the cores are made in china, and nothing has come over in a long time. So, instead they shipped me a 3-row replacement. Hopefully it cools just as well, and does not leak. Free shipping both ways, and hopefully I don't loose too much fluid while I do the replacement.







While the car is out of the garage, I am doing a bunch of work to have better storage, work areas, and use of the space.
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:18 AM   #358
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Nice, looking forward to more updates.

Before you hit anything with self etching primer, make sure the 2K you put over it will not have an adverse reaction. 2k is pretty much the best primer out there and I doubt you'll need a self etching primer under it
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 06-09-2021, 08:08 AM   #359
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Regarding the 2k, some are DTM. Some are not. Read the data sheets. Since its a nice car, if its going to react, it will. Meanwhile, a ****box will be fine.
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Old 06-09-2021, 08:24 PM   #360
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cool, thanks!

great suggestions. I am surprisingly having a bit of difficulty in determining which primer is suggested, even on the spray max websites, and data sheets. Nothing on the back of the actual can says anything about primer, just what I should do when I swallow it, and some stuff in French. On the website, Nobody seems to mention it. They just mention their whole array of primers. Actually, on page #2 under "substrate" they say:
" Metal, Steel, Stainless Steel (cleaned and sanded). Depending on the surface select the appropriate
Primer to achieve maximum adhesion and corrosion protection "
so.... ??!?!

here is a link:
https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/produ...hot-rod-black/

and here is that data sheet Larry mentioned.
https://download.kwasny.com/datashee...212_(US)EN.pdf

This is strange, because I want to get the primer right for the best adhesion, but I can't currently find the answer to which aeresol primer to use.

My initial choice was this SEM etching primer, which is what I used on my engine bay project last winter. I can buy it locally at an auto-body supply store in Denville, but I don't want to buy/use it if it is wrong.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/...g-primer/39683

my other option is to buy the same brand's primer, So, Spray Max Primer. like this:

https://www.spraymax.com/en/products...-epoxy-primer/

Initially I wasn't sure If I would need an etching primer or an epoxy primer. I won't have any thing that needs to have a filler-primer, so really, it is just what will be best on mild-steel, welds, and nearby Sheetmetal. Etching primer? Epoxy primer? I feel like I should definitely know this, but I am drawing a big blank right now


EDIT: Now I am thinking my best choice is probably this DTM Direct-T-Metal Primer by Spray Max
https://www.spraymax.com/en/products...primer-filler/


Thoughts/suggestions?
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Old 06-10-2021, 06:56 AM   #361
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I'm not sure what you have. Every time I've heard 2k referenced, it has been 2k epoxy primer.

I'd get any 2k epoxy primer.

For example, eastwood's says not to spray over etching primer-

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-...ray-black.html
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Current mistake
DD- '05 Silverado
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow View Post
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike View Post
Seven.
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