Code 33 popping up - Page 2 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

project89 · 07-03-2006, 08:47 PM

check the power lead to the burnoff relay.make sure the relay ground wire is grounded.check the relay trigger wire for 12 volts also

88jerseyiroc · 07-03-2006, 10:23 PM

ok i will do that tomorrow since i have time. is there any particluar way of doing that? or is it just same old basic wire testing?

88jerseyiroc · 07-03-2006, 11:03 PM

Ok i am looking at this diagram and i think it is wrong because it is only showing 4 wires coming out of the burn off relay and i know there is 5. here is the diagram link http://images.ardiem78.com/f_image.gif.

V · 07-03-2006, 11:22 PM

i thought only 85s had the burn off relay...

88jerseyiroc · 07-04-2006, 09:14 AM

Ok so i tested it, seemed fine to me, i got 12.34 V on the power lead, the ground was good. maybe the signal wire is messed up from the sensor. Also while testing this code 14 popped, CTS temp hi. So i figure my car is going to blow up soon. I might have to repalced all the wiring.

project89 · 07-04-2006, 10:03 AM

wellif the car thinks the motor is really hot,that will cause it to run like **** all together

88jerseyiroc · 07-04-2006, 11:56 AM

Yea but it wasnt doing that before, meaning overheating. it has brand new relays for the fan and and new thermostat. Code 14 is a new code that popped when i was testin out the relays.

project89 · 07-04-2006, 09:59 PM

just fo rthe hell of it reset the codes,and unplug the maf and see if the car runs anybetter

88jerseyiroc · 07-04-2006, 11:16 PM

I reseted the codes. but soon after i started up the car, they popped again. The car runs the same with or without the MAF sensor when the codes are popped but if the codes arent present and there is no check engine light, the car difintely runs like crap or stall. Plus i think now the cooling fans arent coming on, making the car overheat. I think my car is almost dead. it is like telling it wants to be buried or something. This is getting so frustrating.

project89 · 07-04-2006, 11:18 PM

test the colant temp sensor

88jerseyiroc · 07-05-2006, 05:12 AM

Now that sensor is below the throttle body right going into the block? How would you check that?

The Fixer · 07-05-2006, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88jerseyiroc

Now that sensor is below the throttle body right going into the block? How would you check that?

There's actually two sensors going into the front of the intake manifold below the throttle body. One has a connector with a metal wire on it, that looks like the connectors on the injectors. That's not the one you need. Check the other one. I'm sure you can check the resistance across the two pins inside of the sensor to see if it's within spec, but I'm not sure where that info is. We gotta find you a service manual!

88jerseyiroc · 07-05-2006, 11:32 AM

Ok thanks Mr Ragusa. I have the chilton book and ALLDATADIY.com. but those pictures on either one arent very clear on which it was, I do have the specs for it so i will post them when i get them.

88jerseyiroc · 07-05-2006, 12:38 PM

Oh yea the CTS is difintely busted. I have to get a new one and insdtall it. Hopefully the fan circuit is not damage, making the fans not come on. Oh yea pretty soon, i am difintely going to need a new wiring harness. Wires are getting stripped and connectors are breaking.

The Fixer · 07-05-2006, 11:43 PM

Don't be surprised, when you pull the CTS out, some antifreeze will come out with it. After it finishes drooling all over your driveway, dry up the hole, then put some teflon tape on the threads of the new CTS, and install. If the original CTS was bad, it could explain a bunch of your problems, since the computer really had no idea how warm your car was and probably put it in Limp mode.

88jerseyiroc · 07-06-2006, 05:03 AM

Oh you have no idea how shot the CTS was. it was reading infinite when i tested it. Yea i was prepared for the antifreeze to come out, put carboard under my car to get most of it. Hopefully this will help it some. Maybe today it wont pop any codes. I will try to update when i get home from work.

88jerseyiroc · 07-06-2006, 05:00 PM

Ok still tripping Code 14 and Code 33. At this point i would say it is a wiring problem. Plus the cooling fans arent coming on either. talking about getting the shaft up the ass without no lube.

88jerseyiroc · 07-07-2006, 05:50 AM

I have tested the cooling fan circuit it seems to be ok until the relay. It looks like someone rigged a wire from the one power source on the main cooling fan to the second cooling fan relay. Most of the wires by the battery are either rigged or burnt too. At the relay i got power and ground but when i jump the terminal like it said on ALLDATA, the fans didnt come on. Plus it is still popping the code for CTS hi, which i just replaced. The fans dont even come on when turning on the AC. I got 3 days to fix the overheating. I can live with the rough idling but i cant go with the car overheating like that. Any sugesstions??

Tru2Chevy · 07-07-2006, 09:57 AM

Wll if there are a lot of rigged wires around the engine bay, your issues could be coming from anywhere. I would do your best to try and figure out what each of the "rigged" wires is for, and see if there is a better way to fix the issues that they were installed for. If wires are burning up, then something isn't setup correctly, and could be wreaking havoc on your entire electrical system.

- Justin

88jerseyiroc · 07-07-2006, 10:18 AM

Ok wow i was searching the the wires and whatnot like you said and whoa there is a whole load of problem with it, stripped wires, wries that been cut of from connectors, 5 of the wires leading to the MAF sensor were stripped under the plastic coating right near the thottle body. I duct taped them up because i dont heat strinks. near the battery there is whole load of mess with the cooling fan wires and bulk connector. by the fuse box there are wires spliced all over the place. Now i know what the damn problem is, someone messed up the wiring and it was big time. Now difintely need a new wiring harness. there is no doubt in my mind. so here is my question, should i do it myself or should i have someone do it, like a dealer or something??

BTW guys thanks for all your help. I know i might seem like a pain but i dont want to by a Ricer and get rid of the IROC.

The Fixer · 07-07-2006, 04:10 PM

If you can find a complete uncut engine harness, you can swap it yourself (or with some help) in a couple of hours. Just unplug everything cleanly, and reconnect the new harness carefully. All the connectors pretty much lead themselves the right way, the only thing you'll have to watch our for is the knock sensor and coolant sensor; those plugs are very similar.

Also, the harness will be the same for '87-'88, so you should be OK if you don't find one exactly off an '87.

V · 07-07-2006, 10:43 PM

also, make sure you get a camaro harness, a firebird/trans am one is set up for the battery on the drivers side. so if you find a "tpi harness" for sale, check to see what its out of. And like steve said, 87 and 88 are the same. IF you have no other choice, you COULD use an 86 harness, BUT youd have to modify/lengthen the wires for the alt and a/c compressor. however with your current situation i dont think youd wanna deal with anymore cutting and splicing, lol.

88jerseyiroc · 07-08-2006, 12:56 AM

Hmm i found this http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/3145. Would that be a logical choice or should i get a whole new one?.

V · 07-08-2006, 02:03 AM

thats a nice option, but NOT worth the base price of 350... a NEW Painless Wiring brand stand alone TPI harness isn't even that much. ($325.88 )

Check ebay or on thridgen.org

88jerseyiroc · 07-08-2006, 10:31 AM

I was looking at the painless wiring site and i got really confused. I wish it more clear on what i need on that site.