Any good V6 mods???????

[bokey]

Hey all,

Does anybody know of any good V6 mods? After christmas I plan to put on some headers; not sure what kind yet I've been looking at Pace Setter; seems to be the only brand that makes headers for a 3.1 V6. I also was able to put together a mass air unit from different pre 1990 Maros. I think I may try a redneck dual snorkel from the mass air unit. If anyboyd knows of some good mods I would appricate it thanks.

[Ian]

oh dude! I know the best mod ever for those things! its called get rid of it and get an 8 cylinder! j/k man, basically any sort of free mod that can be done on a v8 can be done on a sixer, so you might want to start there. other than that, exhaust and such might nab you some power. get a custom PROM burned?

[Tru2Chevy]

www.60degreev6.com

You can do cam, rockers, convert to a 3x00 top end (aluminum heads and much better intake), etc. The list goes on and on

- Justin

[foff667]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

www.60degreev6.com

You can do cam, rockers, convert to a 3x00 top end (aluminum heads and much better intake), etc. Â*The list goes on and on

- Justin

your new avatar rocks...thank god i dont spend alot of time over at your house otherwise I could be next

[NJSPEEDER]

first thing any car will benefit from is a good set of gears. most 3rd gen V6's came with 3.42's, i would up that to a set of 4.10's and install a posi asap.

also, you have a drum brake rear. look around the local salvage yards for a set of aluminum drums. they are easy to spot underneath a variety of gm mid and full size vehicles from teh 60's-80's. tehy are easy to spot, greyish in color, big cooling fins, and round balancing weights. tehy will shed 7-11lbs per side over yoru stock iron drums.

since your car uses teh same style of air intake as teh tpi cars you can do teh free mod on cutting teh bottoms out fo teh filter boxes. the factory put in a big goofy silencer the is not needed as much as teh air it blocks if you wanna get really tricky you can also fab up a mild ram/cold air set up with a little bit of sheet metal

advnacing your base timing is another nice little free mod taht you will feel with a serious gain in throttle response and a bit more pull throughout teh power band. no need to go nuts, just give it 4-6more degrees of lead and you will like teh results. timing can also be "fixed" with a good custom chip, mail order and off teh shelf junk from fastchips and hypercrap are junk. get the car datalogged and a real chip burned.

the exhaust mods will help, but i would make them teh last priority. work on getting more air into teh engien before you worry about getting it out.

taek a trip over to www.camarov6.com some time. there are a few 3rd gens running pretty good.

later
tim

[bokey]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

first thing any car will benefit from is a good set of gears. most 3rd gen V6's came with 3.42's, i would up that to a set of 4.10's and install a posi asap.

also, you have a drum brake rear. look around the local salvage yards for a set of aluminum drums. they are easy to spot underneath a variety of gm mid and full size vehicles from teh 60's-80's. tehy are easy to spot, greyish in color, big cooling fins, and round balancing weights. tehy will shed 7-11lbs per side over yoru stock iron drums.

since your car uses teh same style of air intake as teh tpi cars you can do teh free mod on cutting teh bottoms out fo teh filter boxes. the factory put in a big goofy silencer the is not needed as much as teh air it blocks if you wanna get really tricky you can also fab up a mild ram/cold air set up with a little bit of sheet metal

advnacing your base timing is another nice little free mod taht you will feel with a serious gain in throttle response and a bit more pull throughout teh power band. no need to go nuts, just give it 4-6more degrees of lead and you will like teh results. timing can also be "fixed" with a good custom chip, mail order and off teh shelf junk from fastchips and hypercrap are junk. get the car datalogged and a real chip burned.

the exhaust mods will help, but i would make them teh last priority. work on getting more air into teh engien before you worry about getting it out.

taek a trip over to www.camarov6.com some time. there are a few 3rd gens running pretty good.

later
tim

Thanks for all that ... so hypertech blows? what do you think is better, cutting off the bottom of the air intake or doing a dual snorkel system? i'm just worried about water gettin' in ... also, how do i advance my timing since its fuel injected? let me know what you think, thanks

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by bokey

Thanks for all that ... so hypertech blows? Â*what do you think is better, cutting off the bottom of the air intake or doing a dual snorkel system? Â*i'm just worried about water gettin' in ... also, how do i advance my timing since its fuel injected? let me know what you think, thanks

If you don't run some type of ram air system, and just cut open the baffles in your current intake system the only time you will have to worry about water is if you start splashing through some really big puddles.

As far as timing goes, does your car have a distributor like the 2.8 MPFI cars do? Or does it use and ICM and coilpacks like the FWD 3.1L cars do? I can never remember which one the 91-92 F-Body V6s used.

If you have a distributor, you just have to loosen the hold down nut and rotate the distributor to advance the timing. If you have coil packs, then all timing changes must be made through computer tuning.

- Justin

[NJSPEEDER]

i suggest custom tuning with actual dat logging over any mail order or off teh shelf chip. although every car rolls off the same production line they all come out a little bit different. also how well maintained a car is makes a big difference in how it responds to tuning.
if you ask about tuning in the engine adn drivetrain board there are a few people around who can help get you pointed in teh right direction.
the ram air, if done properly does nto reach down far enough to grab any water(unless you like driving through 2-3ft deep puddles ). if you want to start with the air box mod it is very straight forward and will give you an immediate noticable gain.
if you want help getting started let me know, i live in ewing, so it would be a short drive for us to meet up some time adn knock out a few little things.

later
tim

[Ian]

I can't believe tim forgot to mention this. put the car on a diet. that will make it faster, help it stop quicker and handle better.

[bokey]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

i suggest custom tuning with actual dat logging over any mail order or off teh shelf chip. although every car rolls off the same production line they all come out a little bit different. also how well maintained a car is makes a big difference in how it responds to tuning.
if you ask about tuning in the engine adn drivetrain board there are a few people around who can help get you pointed in teh right direction.
the ram air, if done properly does nto reach down far enough to grab any water(unless you like driving through 2-3ft deep puddles ). if you want to start with the air box mod it is very straight forward and will give you an immediate noticable gain.
if you want help getting started let me know, i live in ewing, so it would be a short drive for us to meet up some time adn knock out a few little things.

later
tim

thanks i'll let you know whats going on ... you suggested advancing the timing before? If the timing is advanced there is a greater chance of the car pining and what not ... thats one thing i wouldn't do unless i got a new cam .. and i'd probally get a new cam only if 1. i was rebuilding my engine, or 2. got a racing cam ... the aluminum drum upgrade, i don't think that may be a great idea, cast iron is heavier, but it sucks up the heat, aluminum does not ... i'm going to try out the air box mod, headers, and maybe a shift kit ... even perhaps a cheater nitrous kit :P what do you have done to your Z?

[Ian]

actually, aluminum transfers heat better than cast iron. If you heat a piece of aluminum and a piece of iron to the same temp at the same time then wait five minutes, the aluminum will have lost more heat that the iron.

[NJSPEEDER]

timing advance will only cause a ping if you go too far. only droppin in the few degrees the factory left out will just help your performance and mileage. if you put higher octane fuels in teh car you can go even further with the timing, still no need to go nuts. a good computer chip will also take care of the timing.

aluminum drums actually decrease stoppign distances because they dissapate heat faster and the mass reduction means less inertia to try to slow down. it won't be a revolution in braking or anything, but it does help in both go and stop applications

if you take teh tranny down to do a shift kit i would suggest getting a little bit higher stall convertor. it will let the car come off the line in a little sweeter spot in the power band and will make a huge difference in launch and any other time you go from light throttle to WOT from a lower rpm. no need to do anythign crazy, jsut a little 2400-2600 stall will work nicely.

biggest thing is get a set of gears in taht thing. i am not kidding when i say 4.10's are a good starting poitn for gears. most peopel who switch actually see improvements in mileage and definately a killer improvement in ets.

later
tim

[bokey]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

timing advance will only cause a ping if you go too far. only droppin in the few degrees the factory left out will just help your performance and mileage. if you put higher octane fuels in teh car you can go even further with the timing, still no need to go nuts. a good computer chip will also take care of the timing.

aluminum drums actually decrease stoppign distances because they dissapate heat faster and the mass reduction means less inertia to try to slow down. it won't be a revolution in braking or anything, but it does help in both go and stop applications

if you take teh tranny down to do a shift kit i would suggest getting a little bit higher stall convertor. it will let the car come off the line in a little sweeter spot in the power band and will make a huge difference in launch and any other time you go from light throttle to WOT from a lower rpm. no need to do anythign crazy, jsut a little 2400-2600 stall will work nicely.

biggest thing is get a set of gears in taht thing. i am not kidding when i say 4.10's are a good starting poitn for gears. most peopel who switch actually see improvements in mileage and definately a killer improvement in ets.

later
tim

Yeah, i've been thinking about it, but i just don't have the money right now ... i did however put in my mass air unit w/ the silencers removed ... the response is better ... going for headers next ... stall converter will probally go in along w/ the shift kit ... i assume it wouldn't be that expensive the best shift kit for my car is about $60 ... also looking at a new cam ... http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...01&lvl=2&prt=5 its a step up from the stock but i may have to get different pistons (dome) for the increased compression ...

[NJSPEEDER]

i wouldn't worry about raising the compression with a cam like that. once you get a cam in you will need comuter tunign anyway to take advantage of it, just use a little more top end timing with teh current compression adn you will see very similar gains without the expense or time needed to swap pistons.
that is a good looking cam. see if ytou can rip another intake set adn heads from a yard and get them cleaned up a little. a simple gasket match and cleaning up any casting flash will help you get the air you need to really feed that cam.
you may also want to look into an upgraded fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. a few bucks spent on a fuel system will help keep teh motor healthy for longer.

later
tim

[Squirrel]

road flare, can of gasoline, 1 brick and a steep cliff.

this is evil90ss speakin by the way...not squirrel nuts