my new toy

[bigz28man]

so here is my new toy thats about to go into my 97' Z in a few weeks. More pictures of my new 12 bolt Moser 4.11 rear and all my summitracing goodies to come hope everyone enjoys, cause I know I will

[sweetbmxrider]

Niiiiice. I think you listed specs in another thread but mind telling them again?

[greenformula92]

:drool:

[bigz28man]

my toy my machine, my animal, 550 horses and more to come here are photos of the process hope you guys enjoy, and so many more photos to come. these photos are from last summer after the car was lowered.

[bigz28man]

the photos I first posted are of the motor at the engine shop, here are some more photos taken in the past couple of weeks.

[coolmanvette75]

Have the afr's been ported or are they as cast? What cam? Looks sweet

[bigz28man]

here are some photos I took today on the progress of my $25,000 of blood, sweat and tears. new front K members, moser 12 bolt, adjustable pan hard bar, adjustable control arms, sway bars, lowering springs, ported and polished intake mounted on my new 396

[bigz28man]

photos of how the car sits now..........waiting.

here are the specs on the motor the heads are the AFR 195cc CNC ported heads with a 65cc combustion chamber.
Camshaft specs are duration @ .050 236/242 Lift 555/576 LSA 112

[bigz28man]

some photos of my polished hooker super comp long tube headers and polished slp cold air intake (pro charger....very soon to come):nod:

[sweetbmxrider]

Nice man, transmaro on here runs a similar cam that made some good power in his setup. Can't wait to see the car finished.

[coolmanvette75]

I dont want to know how many hours it took to polish that intake manifold if it was done by hand...

[band77one]

clean car but those gfx and giant wing have to go

[bigz28man]

Imo those ground effects and wing set this car apart from the other Camaros on the road. No one said to GM when the iroc z came out...GM loose those ground effects. And the spoiler gives the car a more Retro look from when the camaros had the higher spoiler in the second Gen years.

[maroman88]

gfx and wing look awesome, everyones got an SS wing, i was guilty of it when i had my 95Z lol

[chrisfrom nj]

nice project when are you going to have it back on the road

[bigz28man]

Should be on the road in two weeks, then in about a month is going back off the road, for a complete body overhaul.

[bigz28man]

the old valve covers will not be staying on this motor, they are only on to protect the new rockers and springs while other parts are going on.

[bigz28man]

a few more photos

[Lt1_8U]

looks great! i bet your getting antsy to start her up:twisted:

[bigz28man]

i got my new beefed up t-56 trans in today, and man is it awesome. I also decided to put on my flywheel today. project moving forward, i will tackle the clutch and water pump, opti, alternator, and other various parts this weekend.

[bigz28man]

so I decided to get back to work on this motor build, did not get as much done as I wanted but hey my damn headers are still not back from the polisher, so I'm in no big rush. I did manage to get the fuel rails, injectors, starter, coil, and throttle body done. I really liking the way the back of the motor is looking, I know egr and air valves are not seen but hey it looks so much cleaner going in. Oh yeah the polishing company so conveniently told me that I will have my headers by the April 5th. whats another 2 weeks, when the car has not really moved in 7 months. :cry:

[bigz28man]

another photo

[coolmanvette75]

:drool::drool::drool: I love that polished stuff. What are you gonna do as far as valve covers go?

[bigz28man]

I have polished aluminum covers going on as well. Waiting till the build comes near compete to put them on

[sweetbmxrider]

Throw a few washers between the ignition coil and the head. They tend to heat soak and will give you issues. If you didn't already, put some fresh thermal paste between the ICM and the bracket to further help eliminate heat related issues.

[bigz28man]

Thanks for the advise I will do that when I tackle the opti spark

[bigz28man]

so have been thinking about getting this slp air foil, does this part really do anything as far as simulating the ports on the tb to be bigger than what they actually are? in the grand scheme of things 58mm is not that big when some tb for the ls motors are over 102mm. can this part really simulate air going through a 116mm opening (58x2)?

[bigz28man]

got another delivery from ups today, was happy to see this part, this adjustable torque arm is something, it really puts that stamped stock one to shame. as you can my maine coon is doing his inspection of the part as well. I am only waiting on two more parts from BMR, front k member (that will be next weeks delivey, I'm waiting till the motor is completely built then it will get attached to new k-member) and sub frame connectors will be coming in about three weeks.

[WildBillyT]

so have been thinking about getting this slp air foil, does this part really do anything as far as simulating the ports on the tb to be bigger than what they actually are? in the grand scheme of things 58mm is not that big when some tb for the ls motors are over 102mm. can this part really simulate air going through a 116mm opening (58x2)?

I seem to recall the high performance LT1 TB's having foils built in to them already.

[bigz28man]

I have the holly one as you can see in the photo it does not appear to have one

[WildBillyT]

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ProductImages/enginecomponents/throttlebodies/hol112504.jpg

vs

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg60/imthat1guy1/Items%20Selling/2010-04-03_185648.jpg

[bigz28man]

ahh I see now, thanks

[bigz28man]

I decided to really put this project in gear and start getting things really back together. I still don't have my lt headers or my slp cold air intake tube back from the polisher but hey ....they tell me I will have them on the 5th. just a few days away. hope everyone like the photos I think its about time though to take off those stock valve covers and put the polished ones that are intended to go on.

[bigz28man]

and another

[bigz28man]

ok so I'm really drawling a blank and I remebered this website called lt1engine and they went over pretty much step by step on how to replace the opti spark but I can not remember for the life this sleeve in the picture, I dont want to start ripping things apart but i cant remember if i put this sleeve on. does anyone know if the the water pump will go back on if this sleeve is missing.

[sweetbmxrider]

You need that unless you convert to electric waterpump and seal up the hole in the timing cover. That is what drives the waterpump.

[WildBillyT]

ok so I'm really drawling a blank and I remebered this website called lt1engine and they went over pretty much step by step on how to replace the opti spark but I can not remember for the life this sleeve in the picture, I dont want to start ripping things apart but i cant remember if i put this sleeve on. does anyone know if the the water pump will go back on if this sleeve is missing.

Yes, the water pump will physically mount up. But like Adam said:

You need that unless you convert to electric waterpump and seal up the hole in the timing cover. That is what drives the waterpump.

I think you can just see if it's there or not with a little hand mirror. If it's missing your water pump will not spin.

[sweetbmxrider]

Are you talking about inside the cover? I thought he meant the connecting sleeve between the two drives.

[WildBillyT]

Are you talking about inside the cover? I thought he meant the connecting sleeve between the two drives.

Yeah, the coupler. If I said something wrong I'll edit my post?

To the OP:

http://shbox.com/ci/water_pump.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

I'm just confused as to why he would need a mirror to see it? I believe he has the motor out on the k member and is wanting to put the waterpump on.

[WildBillyT]

I'm just confused as to why he would need a mirror to see it? I believe he has the motor out on the k member and is wanting to put the waterpump on.

In post 34 it looks like he has the pump on already which might make it kind of hard to see.

[sweetbmxrider]

Didn't even look up there :lol: Now I get what you mean!

[bigz28man]

thanks guys for the info, I decided to just go ahead and unbolt the water pump now, it was actually easier than I thought , was not worried about liquids getting on opti, seeing that the motor is still dry. Anyways after I removed the water pump, I seen that I put the sleeve on, I was drawling a brain fart and I so cant wait for the build to be done.

[bigz28man]

Just a quick update on this overdue and needs to be competed project. It took me having to go to my local police department outside my own police department that I work for and file a police report and speak with my credit card company to dispute the polishing charges to finally get tracking numbers on the parts I'm waiting for. So thrusday is the arrival date on that. I spoke with BMR the sfc001h sub frame connectors will be arriving on Tuesday. The motor is mostly done, I will upload photos alittle later tonight. One I get the motor turned over I will uploading more photos of the final pieces go on. I will be also uploading videos of its first startup.

[bigz28man]

got a bunch of parts in the mail today FINALLY here are some photos of the parts I've been waiting on, this car will be sick inside and out. So these BMR sub-frame connectors are pretty sick

[bigz28man]

these are the parts i have been waiting for...keep in mind all these parts are brand new the parts being black are new out of the box. then there is the polished photos, they speak for themselves

[bigz28man]

some more before shots

[bigz28man]

and one more

[bigz28man]

these are the polished....not chrome

[bigz28man]

here is another photo of the polished headers and the slp cold air intake and the polish elbow I got from trick-flow

[Blackbirdws6]

Polished pieces look great. You may not be happy how they look after the first warm up unless you got these coated.

[bigz28man]

When you say coated, do you mean ceramic coated or jet hot coated?

[Blackbirdws6]

I meant coated in any way. The metal is going to turn different colors once you get them hot the first time. If they are ceramic or jet hot coated, then they should stay with a similar finish.

[bigz28man]

I just sent over an email to the polishing company asking about that?

[3.4 grape of wrath]

I must have missed this posting. That is one nice looking car!! To each there own with the wing and ground effects but I think it looks great.:nod:

[bigz28man]

Thanks for compliment, I really just wanted my car to look alittle different from other lt1's on the road. do I think my car looks better than others.....no, but it is what I want. I can't wait to rip into the 02 silver ss and make it look like like this one except it having the stock ss spoiler and it will have SS badges on it. I plan on doing a le3 heads and cam, bigger intake and TB. I will also be customizing an air intake system as well. Also doing a full dual kooks exhaust as well.

[bigz28man]

Was wondering how much work is involved in welding on these sub-frame connectors?

[bigz28man]

I need so help with these O2 sensors and my long tube headers. Ok the problem is this my hooker long tube headers have no O2 bung holes in them. Should I drill the hole in the collector or will I be safe in drilling the holes for the O2 bungs in the y-pipe right where the Y-pipe connects to the headers? Reason I don't want to drill the holes into the headers is because I don't want to start cutting into these things if I don't have to, I'd rather drill into the y-pipe. But if I have I will. Also I'm only running the front two O2 sensors.

[bigz28man]

some progress is being made

[bigz28man]

so, as my project stands now, i still have valve covers, air intake, alternator, and few other loose ends to tie up before the motor goes into the car. some bad news though, the front BMR k-member i'm going to have to pass on for right not, between this project and my 02' SS project, funds are just not there. keeping in mind i still have another $7,000.00 grand to put into body work on this car :banghead:. thanks LTb10w for the throttle cable, that i picked up today. popped open the hood the car today, and realized a bird started to make a nest where the PCM goes. bye bye nest, this damn car has to get back inside cant be having that go on. I'll keep everyone posted on new updates, i would say my next photos i'll be uploading will be the motor going back up in the car.

[bigz28man]

need some help, my plug wires are really close to my headers, what can i do to protect my wires, what has others done to fix this problem so my wires dont burn up. Summit racing has heat protectors part# TAY-2570. will these work??? Motor is going in tonight!!!!!!!!! I will wait on firing it up till i have this small dilemma solved.

[madness410]

wow man car looks amazing. lets go cruising this summer.

[Blackbirdws6]

How close are they and how do you have them ran at the moment? Over the valve cover or stock location.

[bigz28man]

I would say they are about 3/4 of an inch from the headers and they mounted in a stock position, not on the valve covers

[Blackbirdws6]

3/4" isn't bad as long as they are good wires and won't flop around to touch the headers. Should be fine for basic start up until you get some protective sleeves for piece of mind.

[bigz28man]

Motor is in, webbing on new valve covers isn't clearing rocker arms. :banghead: so I found a post on ls1tech on what to cut and asked a buddy of mine who has done cutting on his own valve covers in the past if he do some cutting for me. If that still don't work, canton valve covers are next.

[bigz28man]

My buddy sent me this photo as he was cutting away. Fingers are crossed, I have developed a love hate relationship with this car now, and right now I hate her.

[bigz28man]

Decided to upload photos of some more progress on this project. I realized that this car is sitting on the ground so I had to stop on jacking it up. The rear is looking pretty good, right now I'm working on getting the drive shaft up and in the car. Getting a few last measurements and I'll have that made up and put into place. Going with 1350 u-joints on rear and slip yokes.

[bigz28man]

The old motor sitting in pieces, I think maybe tomorrow I'll put her some what back together so it looks more like a motor.

[sweetbmxrider]

Looking real good!

[bigz28man]

Got my new valve covers back from buddy after he milled them down, he did a sick @ss job on them, went right on with no issues. Also decided to clean up the old motor, that buddy bought off of me. Sad to see her about to go, oh well onto bigger and better things. Like a 427 complete ls long block.

[sweetbmxrider]

The oil fill cap is supposed to be on the passenger side :)

[bigz28man]

Yeah I know....lol I just placed those valve coves on to keep the dirt and dust out. Thanks though.

[HeadlessNorseman]

badass motor! the wing and gfx are cool... like you said makes it different. good luck with the build

[bigz28man]

Thanks man, the build is coming to an end. I get my drive shaft tomorrow, so the motor will me connected to the the rear by the end of tomorrow. I still have to do the front rotors and brake calipers, bolt that BMR torque arm on and weld those BMR sub-frame connectors. Reconnect radiator, condenser, and install my water temp, oil pressure , air / fuel gauges. Connect all sensors and walla done. Start it up, let it run through some heat cycles, take for a test drive, if all is well, drop it off at the body shop and its done. This car has been off the road since September of last year.....I really can't wait to have her back.

[sweetbmxrider]

How long do you anticipate it being at the body shop? I would drive the car for a good bit, like 500 miles, to break in the motor in and make sure nothing is wrong. Worst thing for a new motor is to be idling around a shop for a month. Unless, does Golen break the motor in for you?

[bigz28man]

It goes to the shop in June I'll bring it up and down the parkway a few time from point to manahawkin. The shop will have it for 3 months.

[bigz28man]

Got my new 3" aluminum drive shaft in today. What a difference between the stock one and this new one. Figured I would spend alittle extra here I don't want anything breaking.

[WildBillyT]

I hope that's not just an LS1 driveshaft...

[sweetbmxrider]

He mentioned 1350 u joints so they at least did something.....

[bigz28man]

Are the ls1 drive shafts 3" thick in diameter stock? And are they aluminum or steal?

[LTb1ow]

Yes, 3 inch, and their aluminum.

[bigz28man]

Man the ls f-bodys got all the good sh.t . Better motor better suspension, better brakes, hell GM even gave them a damn better drive shaft. I can't wait for my buddy to get home from over seas, got his 2002 silver ss all ready to be purchased.

[LTb1ow]

Man the ls f-bodys got all the good sh.t . Better motor better suspension, better brakes, hell GM even gave them a damn better drive shaft. I can't wait for my buddy to get home from over seas, got his 2002 silver ss all ready to be purchased.

I think you misinterpreted here, having an LS1 drive shaft behind your engine is a BAD thing.

If its not an LS1 shaft, then carry on, my bad.

[bigz28man]

got the driveshaft in, fits perfectly. placed it into position, bolted it in and rotated the rear rear tires with it. no issues, so off to finishing the motor up. Need help with something though. I'm not happy that i couldn't get the BMR front k-member...funds would not allow for it. how hard would it be putting a new one in? Do i have to drop the motor or can the motor stay up in the car while i change the stock k-member out to the new k-member?

[bigz28man]

so in post #8 i listed the specs on the comp cam thats in this new motor. I know in a few days I will be starting this car. does anyone know how healthy this motor will sound? taking into consideration I'm going with hooker long tube headers and no cats, and no mufflers.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

so in post #8 i listed the specs on the comp cam thats in this new motor. I know in a few days I will be starting this car. does anyone know how healthy this motor will sound? taking into consideration I'm going with hooker long tube headers and no cats, and no mufflers.

It'll be very loud and sound nasty. Pretty sizeable cam so it would sound great even with high flow cats and mufflers.

[sweetbmxrider]

Its going to be obnoxious.

[Blackbirdws6]

It going to sound pretty mean. I ran a CC306 in the car before my latest build which has similar specs to your cam.

No cats with the cutout open.

DaAT5fyWJnU

[bigz28man]

Thanks guys, I will be looking into some kind of mufflers after I figure out how to do a true daul setup with h-pipe .

[bigz28man]

some photos from the other day as i was installing my drive shaft

[sweetbmxrider]

I can't believe its going to the body shop. It looks very good.

[bigz28man]

so i got everything put back together, i still have the cooling system to hook up. So i decided to try to fire it up, IT'S ALIVE., ran for a few seconds and shut her off. tried starting it again about a half hour later, wouldn't start. DAMNIT

[bigz28man]

ok anyone have any ideas why it didn't refire? I'm not going to try it again till i have the cooling system hooked up. I'm going to check the basics (spark, fuel, and so on):banghead:

[WildBillyT]

Yup, start with the basics.

[bigz28man]

just throwing this out there, i have not installed the front two O2 sensors, would that cause the motor not to refire, seems like a long shot seeing that it fired up in the first place. going to install them when i get back to it and see what happens. keeping my fingers crossed that the issue goes away after they are installed.

[sweetbmxrider]

Nope, they don't start working till the motor enters closed loop. You are going to have issues if you don't have some piping after the collector as air will rush into the collectors and cause the o2's to go lean.

[LS1ow]

wait.... why is it going to the body shop ?! car looks great as is.

[bigz28man]

the car looks good, but the paint is from 97 and the car has been growing clear coat peel and spider cracks in the paint. As far the piping after the collectors, that is not together yet so maybe... we'll see. I'm not loosing to much sleep over it right now cause there is still a few more things needed to be done. On a different note, who ever is going to the swap meet today, I'll be in a red orange county choppers t shirt and black adidas pants, say hello if you see me.

[bigz28man]

Need advise. So I got everything put together, started the car, back firing like it was in rage or something. So I went checked the wires going into opti relized the number 3 and and 5 were swapped. Fix that start the car again, no back firing, idols at 1000 rpm with ease. Problem lies here, check engine light is on, my buddy plugged his scanner in and the scanner is not picking up the cars PCM.....why? Do I need a special scanner? Second problem, the car temp gage was between half and 3/4, and still looked like it was going to continuing to rise. I'm thinking maybe its just air in the line but the feeder hose was ice cold the return was hot/warm. Does that make any sense? I shut the motor down before it got any hotter. I plan in the afternoon to work the air out the line..does anyone else feel that's my problem?

[t0rtur3d]

Need advise. So I got everything put together, started the car, back firing like it was in rage or something. So I went checked the wires going into opti relized the number 3 and and 5 were swapped. Fix that start the car again, no back firing, idols at 1000 rpm with ease. Problem lies here, check engine light is on, my buddy plugged his scanner in and the scanner is not picking up the cars PCM.....why? Do I need a special scanner? Second problem, the car temp gage was between half and 3/4, and still looked like it was going to continuing to rise. I'm thinking maybe its just air in the line but the feeder hose was ice cold the return was hot/warm. Does that make any sense? I shut the motor down before it got any hotter. I plan in the afternoon to work the air out the line..does anyone else feel that's my problem?

Maybe you are having a thermostat issue, Check to see if it is opening and closing. It may be stuck or you may have a blockage somewhere.

[bigz28man]

K..I'll look there as well, thank-you....other than those two things the car sounds like a rape ape:rock: I will try and figure out how to upload a video, maybe put the video on YouTube and just post the link

[LTb1ow]

Yea if you did not bleed the coolant correctly and thoroughly, you will get air pockets and it will have hot spots.

As far as the scanner not reading, what year is the car?

[bigz28man]

Its a 97' so its OBDII. The problem is I don't know if it was scanable prior to all the work being done.

[sweetbmxrider]

Check to see if your cig lighter works. That circuit also feeds power to the obd2 port.

[bigz28man]

Thanks bmx I get out of work at 3 so I will check those few things, I was wondering I placed the front two O2 sensors in y-pipe, would that cause a check engine light to come on, seeing that they are not in the collectors?

[bigz28man]

Hey bmx totality off topic but a few weeks ago your car was w/o its hood and had a clear tarp on it, what was up with it?

[t0rtur3d]

Also check your ecu fuses.
You may need to use a higher end code reader like a snap-on or even a laptop with the code reading software.

[bigz28man]

Are ecu fuses under the hood or on the driver side door console?

[t0rtur3d]

Should be above the driver side kick panel , and maybe a small fuse box under the hood.

[t0rtur3d]

The fuse box should be labeled or the cover will have the layout of the fuses

[sweetbmxrider]

Hey bmx totality off topic but a few weeks ago your car was w/o its hood and had a clear tarp on it, what was up with it?

Been working on painting the hood, finally got it on and got my trans back in. Few more things to do and hopefully go rippin around the road again. Having the o2's in the y pipe shouldn't be causing your CEL. It would have had to entered closed loop operation for the computer to even start using them. That takes a little bit of run time though.

[t0rtur3d]

If youknow someone with one of those fancy snapon scanners with the touch screen and all that, then you might be able to get the codes. the cheaper simple code readers dont always work, especially when you have a major engine mod like yours

[LTb1ow]

If youknow someone with one of those fancy snapon scanners with the touch screen and all that, then you might be able to get the codes. the cheaper simple code readers dont always work, especially when you have a major engine mod like yours

Uh, not to be a ass, but how exactly does the complexity of the engine change the stock sensors and their read outs to the PCM?

A code will show on a basic reader, the advantage to the fancy snap on real time scanners is the ability to check each sensors output, but that hinges on the user realizing these values and being able to make sense of them.

[t0rtur3d]

I have had instances where the cheap scanners didnt pick up anything, and the higher end scanners worked fine. The snap on scanner would help show if there are any snesors unplugged or not working. With his major mod to the engine it would be a good idea to get a real time scanner hooked up to make sure everything is in order, and to help find any weak links with the sensors.

[LTb1ow]

Fair enough, never really used a cheap scanner.

[t0rtur3d]

I have and they give little to no information. It is like working with an OBD-1 when using a cheap scanner

[bigz28man]

Ill get it figured out, I have been so busy at my PD, I don't have time right now to start getting into it

[bigz28man]

Update on my project, I got the heat issue fixed, turned out to be just air in the line. The car actually runs pretty cold, 180*. Still have my check engine light. I checked all wires and fuses and my buddies scanner is not picking up the car. So went ahead and checked an older GM car unreadable also. Strange ...but this leading me to believe its the scanner. Odd thing is my dd driver is an 03 aveo, reads it without any problems. Next issue is my new Hurst short throw shifter ....its a nightmare trying to get the car in reverse anyone know what gives? Also I'm looking into an exhaust system thinking about borla but anyone running long tube headers without cats. into a nice cat. back system that doesn't kill the sound of motor. The car has a really wicked cam to it but right now it sounds like I'm standing next to a modified nascar.

[coolmanvette75]

I'm selling a b&m if u dont like the hurst. No problems getting into reverse, or any gear for that matter

[Featherburner]

Next issue is my new Hurst short throw shifter ....its a nightmare trying to get the car in reverse anyone know what gives? Elaborate on "nightmare". Did you plug in the lock out solenoid?

[WildBillyT]

Elaborate on "nightmare". Did you plug in the lock out solenoid?

I was thinking the same thing. Are you trying to force it into reverse with the engine off, too?

[bigz28man]

By nightmare I mean every time I think I have just put the car into reverse its really in 6th gear. Don't get me wrong I can get the car in reverse but it is nothing like the stock shifter.

[WildBillyT]

Make sure the solenoid works and is plugged in.

[bigz28man]

Good news everyone my problem turned out to be the scanner, put another scanner to it cleared the codes and no CEL. I have a few videos of the car anyone know on how I can get them off my phone and onto here.

[sweetbmxrider]

Niceeeee glad you got it situated. Can you upload them to photobucket via an app or directly on the site or through a computer?

[coolmanvette75]

Photobucket or youtube mobile uploads...

[bigz28man]

I have to get a phone HDMI cable and send the video to my PC. I guess then I can upload them to photobucket. Right now all I have left to do is front breaks, sub-frame connectors, clean up, spray the under side of car from the trans forward and its DONE.

[bigz28man]

Well everyone the project is 99% done. All i have left to do is get my buddy to weld on my sub frame connectors and thats is. I just did the front brakes lastnight so, off to get the a/c .......LOL, yes i kept the a/c and its off to the race track. So here is what it looks like, i took the photos before the raditor cover was re put back on.

[bigz28man]

Sweetbmxrider, i will be bringing it by the end of next week, the car will be staying in point pleasant beach for a few days.

[bigz28man]

I also cant forget my tower brace bar, i guess tomorrow i will bolt that on. I will post up when the car is 100% at least as far as the mechanical end. And i will start posting photos of the body work but i hope everyone has enjoyed my toy, see you guys on the road real soon.

[NHRABill]

Now that is going to be a fun ride :) good luck getting all the bugs worked out on it.

[86ta-adf]

Gotta bring it to work one day so i can see it in person

[Lt1_8U]

looks great man, nice work8-)

[t0rtur3d]

looks amazing.

[sweetbmxrider]

Can't wait to check it out 8-)

[bigz28man]

Well some more delays, my buddy is tied up on side work so im pushed back to next week. Looks like the car will be for the most part going from my buddies garage to the body shop.

[bigz28man]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOMZaxThuwo

[bigz28man]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYmMi790Q7E

[bigz28man]

hope you guys like the videos

[bigz28man]

one last video. I wanted to get on the road this week but things got tied at my buddies place so i guess these videos will do for now


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qDiY_hUOdc

[bigz28man]

Crazy question here, unrelated to this project. I have another fiberglass SS hood leaning up againt my wall in my garage, do I have to worry about it warping or is ok leaning there?

Also what do you guys think about the videos?

[bigz28man]

Also, i started on gathering items for the car after its painted. Picked up all brand new blacked out tail light covers, blacked out front marker light covers, black "CAMARO" letters for the rear panel. Going to remove all the side molding on fenders, doors, and quarter panels. Also going to remove front emblem on the nose, and fill in with body filler. Also going to do the "bmh" mod to the rear inner fenders as well as rolling the outside lip to fit 315 back there.

[sweetbmxrider]

She sounds healthy!

[WSex]

are you going to run a moroso windage tray?

[bigz28man]

that's something i never thought about

[bigz28man]

Bracket on my torque broke yesterday, I had to shave it down some to bolt up to Moser 12 bolt, I guess I need try a new approach. So right now i going to try some cutting and welding with the stock torque arm and the BMR torque arm. Car crawling around for now.

[t0rtur3d]

The car came out amazing. Hope to see it in person soon

[NHRABill]

Crazy question here, unrelated to this project. I have another fiberglass SS hood leaning up againt my wall in my garage, do I have to worry about it warping or is ok leaning there?

Also what do you guys think about the videos?

Always a safe bet to distribute weight on a fiberglass hood. I had one that warped a while back after having it standing upright but then again mine was race weight much thinner and somewhat flimsy.

[bigz28man]

Thanks nhra, i have to make a shelf for it in my garage so i can rest it there till i start that project up, which should be in October / November

[greenformula92]

Sounds real good

[bigz28man]

Just wanted to let everyone know the car will be in point pleasant beach tomorrow night. The car has been messed up alittle throughout this project. Mouse in forked river will be looking over the car friday night and giving me a start date on body work. Just yrying to figure out what to do with the engine bay seeing that the motor and all of its polished parts are in it.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

Just wanted to let everyone know the car will be in point pleasant beach tomorrow night. The car has been messed up alittle throughout this project. Mouse in forked river will be looking over the car friday night and giving me a start date on body work. Just yrying to figure out what to do with the engine bay seeing that the motor and all of its polished parts are in it.

Mouse in Forked River? Where's that located?

[bigz28man]

About 10 minutes off of exit 77.

[coolmanvette75]

Paint the bay gloss or semi gloss black...

[bigz28man]

just wanted to know if anyone will be around point pleasant beach tonight? the car is done, i should be in town with it around 5:30ish, I will be taking up and down ocean ave to get some run time on the motor.

[sweetbmxrider]

I might be at my place with Matt changing some tow truck oil.

[bigz28man]

I'll bring it by

[bigz28man]

Its finally on the road after 9 monthts ( that time frame seems kinda funny) anyway 9 months later and she is back on the road.....little banged up here and there but that will be soon fixed. This car is nothing like it was it is an absolute animal. The only thing that kinda is draw back is exhaust fumes do sometimes get into the interior of the car, oh well the pains of having no cats.

[86ta-adf]

Saw and heard it drive past sounded sweet

[sweetbmxrider]

Definitely sounds real good.

[bigz28man]

so i dont know who is a member of ls1tech, but i hear that kooks is in the process of fabing up a true dual exhaust setup for the lt1 motors :drool: . bmxrider and 86ta can confirm the car is extremely loud. I think this is the direction where I will head to as far as exhaust system goes. its looking like a $2000.00 investment ....what the hell its only money

kooks ls1 true dual setup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLRTLdyzfxs

[greenformula92]

so i dont know who is a member of ls1tech, but i hear that kooks is in the process of fabing up a true dual exhaust setup for the lt1 motors :drool: . bmxrider and 86ta can confirm the car is extremely loud. I think this is the direction where I will head to as far as exhaust system goes. its looking like a $2000.00 investment ....what the hell its only money

kooks ls1 true dual setup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLRTLdyzfxs

GMHTP had a story about that exhaust about a year ago. I thought it was for sale

[bigz28man]

need some advice...put 6 quarts of oil in the other day (as instructed w/ canton oil tank) i bring the car from freehold to point pleasant last night, start car today, low oil light comes on ....some im thinking "thats strange" I check the stick , its alittle low and i mean a little. so i put about 1/3 of a quart of oil back in it, low oil light shuts off. Cool... drive the car from the exxon in point pleasant beach to mouses in lonoka harbor ,shut the car off, im there like half hour, start car back up.....low oil light back on..... WTF. anyone ever experience this before , its drinking oil, the car has no leaks and runs as normal as it can be.

the car goes to the bodyshop in late august, $6,000.00 = New looking fast car.

[LTb1ow]

Did Golen break the engine in fully?

[bigz28man]

no he did not...im doing the break in

[LTb1ow]

Then thats prob why its eating oil, make sure you get the exact break procedure he wants and follow that exactly.

[WildBillyT]

need some advice...put 6 quarts of oil in the other day (as instructed w/ canton oil tank) i bring the car from freehold to point pleasant last night, start car today, low oil light comes on ....some im thinking "thats strange" I check the stick , its alittle low and i mean a little. so i put about 1/3 of a quart of oil back in it, low oil light shuts off. Cool... drive the car from the exxon in point pleasant beach to mouses in lonoka harbor ,shut the car off, im there like half hour, start car back up.....low oil light back on..... WTF. anyone ever experience this before , its drinking oil, the car has no leaks and runs as normal as it can be.

the car goes to the bodyshop in late august, $6,000.00 = New looking fast car.

What oil is in it? Grade and brand/type.

[bigz28man]

castrol 10w40, and its really clean, has that clearish look to it. As per chad over at Golen his instructions where as follow first start up, check for any leaks giving the motor about 5 minutes to start warming up. after about 5 minutes run car (in neutral) for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm while some is checking headers, checking for leaks. last step change oil filter and oil, refill with 6 quarts. I wonder because the canton is a bigger oil pan is the senor just not making a proper read?

[Blackbirdws6]

Get the engine broken in and keep checking the oil. I would make a call to Golen just to keep them aware of what you are experiencing and also ask for their advice.

[WildBillyT]

castrol 10w40, and its really clean, has that clearish look to it. As per chad over at Golen his instructions where as follow first start up, check for any leaks giving the motor about 5 minutes to start warming up. after about 5 minutes run car (in neutral) for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm while some is checking headers, checking for leaks. last step change oil filter and oil, refill with 6 quarts. I wonder because the canton is a bigger oil pan is the senor just not making a proper read?

Not synthetic, right?

And the true purpose of a larger oil pan is not more capacity but better oil control. Golen should tell you the correct capacity. I'd ask him if the light keeps going off. Hell, you paid him enough I'm sure.

[sweetbmxrider]

I've always been told to vary the rpm and do some strong engine breaking to help seat the rings. No wot runs but bring it up to 4k, leave in gear and let off the gas slowing a considerable amount, do it again etc. See any smoke out the tailpipes?

[WildBillyT]

I've always been told to vary the rpm and do some strong engine breaking to help seat the rings. No wot runs but bring it up to 4k, leave in gear and let off the gas slowing a considerable amount, do it again etc. See any smoke out the tailpipes?

I hestitated posting this. That is what I have heard as well, and seen on engine dyno break-ins.

[bigz28man]

Nope no spoke, seems to do everything as normal as it can, checked the stick and i have plenty of oil. I was doing some reading on ls1 tech guys have had problems w/ those canton oil pans

[Blackbirdws6]

Nope no spoke, seems to do everything as normal as it can, checked the stick and i have plenty of oil. I was doing some reading on ls1 tech guys have had problems w/ those canton oil pans

The oil needs to be going somewhere. If not through the engine then its leaking out somewhere.

[greenformula92]

also if the low oild light mounting location is high it would trip the light prematurely. Expect to lose a little oil during break in

[bigz28man]

also if the low oild light mounting location is high it would trip the light prematurely. Expect to lose a little oil during break in


that is what i was thinking, Im going to drain the oil out once the car gets done at tronix here in barnegat.... and i'll check to see how much oil i drain from it. It should fill just about 6 quarts up.

[bigz28man]

Got the car back from tronix had a switch plate i ordered from emblempros installed...looks pretty clean i guess. Also drove the car over to tronix this morning, and the low oil light was on, picked it up.... low oil light is off. Weird.

[greenformula92]

nice

[WildBillyT]

Nope no spoke, seems to do everything as normal as it can, checked the stick and i have plenty of oil. I was doing some reading on ls1 tech guys have had problems w/ those canton oil pans

Apparently a common problem with high capacity pans is overfilling and aeration of oil.

[bigz28man]

I just posted in the classifieds section that I'm in need of a a/c compressor for this car. If anyone has one laying around please let know....I may need to buy it.

[bigz28man]

So I had my check engine light, light up on me the other day, scanned it. the codes that come up where a tps code and vss code. I'm not sure how i go about fixing the throttle position senor nor the vehicle speed sensor. anyone have any ideas. Also i was wondering about picking up a canton high flow fuel filter ( summit # CTR-25-909) also thinking about picking up a holly adjustable fuel pressure regulator from hawksthirdgen. I have 42lb injectors as well a racetronix 255lph fuel pump, just dont want this motor running lean, I reached out for chad over at Golen to clarify how much pressure should be at the rails, just waiting for an e-mail back.

BillyT the aeration on these canton oil pans from what i hear is terrible some guys have had this same problem and other have had no problems - looks like im not one of those guys

[sweetbmxrider]

Leave the stock fpr, the aftermarket ones are notorious for causing issues and failing. What tps code and vss code? Post the numbers. Sometimes you have to slot the tps mounting holes so you can calibrate it for the throttle body. Most seem to agree .67 with the throttle body closed is right and 4.5 volts all the way open gives you WOT (Might be just 4 volts). Any old fuel filter will work in my opinion, I just use a wix piece. Really if you want to keep your air/fuel ratio in check, you should install a wideband o2 sensor and gauge.

[LTb1ow]

+1 on NOT getting any aftermarket fuel reg unless you are cheating with smaller injectors.

Ironic.
http://www.golenengineservice.com/documents/LT1%20Tech%20Articles/Adj%20TPS.pdf

[bigz28man]

Ok no fuel regulator, thanks guys im not going to touch the filter either. I stupidity did not wright the codes down. Im going to wait for the light to come on again and ill post up the codes. I'll see check the volts on the sensor, this thing needs more than a mail in tune, i have to get it on a dyno to really get it down. Thanks again guys.

[bigz28man]

Ok so here are some of the issues I'm having, for starters my ASR light is on, ABS light is on, check engine light is back on after clearing the codes, PO. 100 MAf sensor, PO.135 O2 sensor B1.S1, PO.155 O2 sensor B2.S1. The issues with the abs and asr lights have been on prior to the rear change. The car goes to tunetime in lakewood next tuesday, hopefully i can sort through these codes and get rid of the bugs im running into

[LTb1ow]

Was the car a traction control 4channel rear in stock form?

[bigz28man]

It was and still is

[LTb1ow]

Well no, since you are running a non ASR throttle cable now, you removed the traction control motor, so you will throw ABS and ASR lights now. You can either wire the traction control motor back in and hide it somewhere, that may work to get the lights off, but odds are you will just either need to pull the bulbs or ignore em.

Or, get a 3 channel ABS system, plumb that in and it should work in theory then. Tricky part would be the 4chan rear when you need the center sensor of a 3chan rear.

[bigz28man]

Ok how difficult is it to pull the bulbs

[sweetbmxrider]

Not bad, just gotta start removing dash pieces. The lower trim where your knees are, then the dash pad has to come up to expose 2 bolts so be extremely careful as they like to self-explode upon the thought of being removed, after the trim is out there are 4 bolts holding the cluster in, unplug it and unscrew the back plastic cover, find the bulbs you want out and remove. I use a small flashlight and shine it into the area when I remove a bulb to verify its the correct one I need out.

[bigz28man]

I'm wondering if where i placed my O2 sensors if thats why im throwing codes on them. As you can see they are about 2 feet back from where they should be

Maybe a foot and half

[LTb1ow]

As long as the flange seals are perfect, you should not have an issue, but, why did you install them so far back? They should be right in the collectors.

[bigz28man]

I know, these headers didnt have O2 bungs in them, and my buddy who did all the welding on this project suggested about putting them there, so now here i am...dont get me wrong the car is running pretty well with very little issues, but I'd rather have no issues. Also next tuesday it goes to tunetime in lakewood anyone want to meet me there while its getting tuned and doing some pulls.

[WildBillyT]

I know, these headers didnt have O2 bungs in them, and my buddy who did all the welding on this project suggested about putting them there, so now here i am...dont get me wrong the car is running pretty well with very little issues, but I'd rather have no issues. Also next tuesday it goes to tunetime in lakewood anyone want to meet me there while its getting tuned and doing some pulls.

FWIW O2 sensors need to be at a particular temperature to operate correctly. Too far downstream makes them too cold, too far upstream is too hot. This is why some (all?) long tube headers are "illegal".

[LTb1ow]

FWIW O2 sensors need to be at a particular temperature to operate correctly. Too far downstream makes them too cold, too far upstream is too hot. This is why some (all?) long tube headers are "illegal".

But a 94+ should be a heated 02 sensor no? The tuner will tell you if they are acting sluggishly or are fine, but that gasket seal between the engine and 02 worries me. Later on down the road if they leak a little you could have some weird 02 readings etc.

[WildBillyT]

But a 94+ should be a heated 02 sensor no? The tuner will tell you if they are acting sluggishly or are fine, but that gasket seal between the engine and 02 worries me. Later on down the road if they leak a little you could have some weird 02 readings etc.

You are correct, I misspoke. It probably has to do with EGT then. Either way, they need to be in the proper environment to work properly. Heated sensor or not, you can't move it too far from the original heat source.

[bigz28man]

well it might be time to redrill and put the sensors in the collectors

[LTb1ow]

Did you use 02 extensions or wire in the added length?

[bigz28man]

yup, got the extensions from WS6store