WildBillyT- 1968 Nova Super Sport

[WildBillyT]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/68_Nova_SS_Jul11/d6797d92.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/68_Nova_SS_1/8d5db510.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/68_Nova_SS_Mar10/IMG_3935.jpg

Factory Options:
SS Package, 4 speed M20 trans, 3.31 positraction rear, center console, deluxe interior

Exterior Modifications:
Primer

Interior Modifications:
Stock except for Jeg's sport seats (Recaro knock offs) and a Grant steering wheel (GM comfort grip knock off)

Performance:
350 cubic inch engine
Holley 665 Double Pumper
Holley 110GPH fuel pump
Edelbrock Performer Vortec manifold
062 Vortec heads with Manley street flow valves, LT4 springs and screw in studs
Comp XE268 camshaft
Comp 3/8 CM pushrods
Milodon Oil Pump and pickup
Hooker Competition Headers
High flow water pump
Professional Products Powerforce Plus SFI damper
Summit 3" exhaust system, single chamber mufflers
Redline fluids

Suspension/Chassis:
Front:
Reinforced and rewelded stock subframe
Detroit Speed upper and lower tubular Control Arms with solid bushings
Detroit Speed 1 1/8" hollow front sway bar
Detroit Speed Solid Body Mounts
Detroit Speed Tie Rod connectors
Moog Idler, Pitman, and ball joints
QA1 Pro coilover shocks W/ Big Block variable rate springs
Dick Guldstrand mounting point relocation
N44 Quick Ratio steering box
GM Type II power steering pump with ZOOPS remote reservoir
Braided stainless power steering lines
COPO 9737 steering link
Zinc washed powerslot rotors
Goodridge braided hoses
CPP Master cyl + 8" dual diaphragm booster
Hurst Line/Loc

Rear:
Heavy duty 5 leaf springs
Polyeurethane bushings
Heavy duty shackle kit
Heavy duty U-bolts
BRP Shock relocation kit
QA1 Adjustable shocks
Rear disc brakes with semi-metallic pads, braided stainless hoses

Wheels:
Greg Weld Prolites
15x7 front with 215/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/As
15x8 rear with 275/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/As

Drivetrain:
4 Speed Muncie M20 2.52 first gear, torque lock sliders and AGE iron midplate
Hurst Competiton/Plus shifter with Track Pack
Centerforce II clutch disc
9" Rear, 4:11 gears, Trac-Loc posi, Moser 31 spline axles, Daytona pinion support, ARP wheel studs
Denny's 3.5" 6061 T6 aluminum driveshaft
Redline fluids

Electronics:
Autometer 5" tach with shift light
Autometer C2 Oil pressure, Voltmeter, and Water Temperature Gauges
MSD Ignition conversion with Pro-Billet distributor, MSD 6AL, and Blaster 2 coil.
Internal regulated alternator conversion

To-Do List:
Shakedown runs and debugging


Bought the car on New Years eve 2009 after I bailed out of my '69 Camaro project. Original owner was a Vietnam Helicopter pilot/mechanic so the car was in good shape aside from the primer, worn suspension, and worn drivetrain. Even the cigarette lighter worked!

So I tore it down and rebuilt the suspension, relocated the shocks, rebuilt the engine and trans, swapped in the rear and redid the brakes, etc etc. Basically it was stock when I got it, so if it's a part and it's not stock I did it.

Hit the road with it in the spring of 2011 and it drives and handles great. Very flat around corners even with the 15" tires. However I am rethinking the 4.11 gears with no OD.

[mc73nova]

Gotta love a 4-speed Nova! Any plans for paint in the future?

[WildBillyT]

Gotta love a 4-speed Nova! Any plans for paint in the future?

Absolutely... just not sure WHEN exactly. :mrgreen:

[WildBillyT]

Debating a rim change

From 15" Greg Weld Racelites to 17" Soft 8s.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/0e80bcdf.jpg

vs

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/2328341a.jpg

Thoughts?

[BonzoHansen]

no.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

Fan of the idea of switching to 17s, not a fan of the wheels chosen.

[Featherburner]

no.Agreed!

[sweetbmxrider]

Black spokes in that sizing would probably look great. Not entirely feeling those though.

[donnj]

nope, any way someone can photoshop the centers of these wheels in black chrome? anyone know what wheels these are? some what similar to a TT2 but I like the subtle differences...

[WildBillyT]

Yeah, I'm over them already LOL. Oh well.

[elle]

Thank God!

Looks good the way it is

[fmybody]

Thank God!

Looks good the way it is

+1:nod:

[Tru2Chevy]

Soft 8s.....you turning the Nova in to a Jeep?

- Justin

[WildBillyT]

Soft 8s.....you turning the Nova in to a Jeep?

- Justin

Dirt ass cheap 17's, off the shelf in the right size.

[Tru2Chevy]

Dirt ass cheap 17's, off the shelf in the right size.

True, hence their popularity on Jeeps....they are pretty damn heavy though. I have a set of 15x8 soft 8s in my shed for my '92 :nod:

- Justin

[WildBillyT]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/c7efd0fc.jpg

Clicked off 40 miles last weekend without a hitch and liked the timing change. Runs solid at ~170 degrees and handles WAY better than it should with fat 60 series tires. I think it needs some carb tuning still, but it's not too far off. I also switched the oil over to VR1 and drained out the break-in gear lube. It was odd to do "normal people" maintenance on it. LOL.

[sweetbmxrider]

Awwww yea!

[Lt1_8U]

i like it!8-)

[86blackbetty]

Looks great WildBilly!!!

[chrisfrom nj]

i like it looks really good and clean underneath

[rickyd13]

looks good hope all goes well with it

[greenformula92]

looks great WBT. I love the pic from the rear. Novas are so sexy

[donnj]

slots always look good....

[Paul Huryk]

Nice looking ride!

[BonzoHansen]

slots always look good....

no they don't :lol:

[NHRABill]

Looks like a Fun Street car, can't wait to see how you finish her off. Absolutely Love those year Novas.
I have to list up a 72' drag only Nova on Ebay this coming week. Sucks when you take a car too far it is no longer streetable and you miss out on all that fun. :(

[WildBillyT]

T56 swap in progress:

Parts list:
Trans: D&D spec LS1 T56
Shifter: Pro 5.0
Bellhousing: Quick Time 6023-PB (pivot ball)
Crossmember: X-Factor XFGM-10301 Aluminum
Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction DF148552
Speedometer: Garmin, baby!
Driveshaft: Denny's 3.5" Aluminum
Bearing retainer/collar: CAGM-50003 (American Powertrain)
Scotch: Macallan 12 year

Wiring info, AAW part numbers for reverse lights and reverse lock out:

500952 T56 Backup Light Switch Pigtail Wires
500950 T56 Reverse Lockout Module Pigtail Wires

Below are the pics of the 6023PB and how it did not fit on the trans out of the box.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/interference4_zps5dc11405.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/interference3_zpsd1b2e37c.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/interference2_zpse2836d0c.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/interference_zpsde9c715c.jpg

I contacted Lakewood, where the tech was very nice but couldn't help too much, so he sent me to Quicktime's rep, who was also nice but couldn't help, and lo and behold a few days later I am contacted by the CEO/head of development at Quicktime to discuss my woes.

I will say that I got great service and support from them, and the CEO took a lot of time to explain to me the ins and outs of how everything goes, from spec'ing a bellhousing for production all the way to installation.

At the end of the day, I was "kind of" right with my post above. This bellhousing fits a Mag very well. However, it should also fit MOST of the LS1 T56's out there with no issue. Mine is an exception- there are 25+ different configurations of front plates out there, and I drew the short straw.

So for those of you at home, you will probably be fine, but in the off chance you are not, be aware that you may need to do what I did. Have no reservations about grinding though- that area is more than strong enough.

I will also be forwarding my trans tags to Quicktime so they can get a hold of one like it to test.


Made some strides over the last week:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1806_zps87d453bb.jpg

Here it is ready to go in. It's been said a lot, but it's a big sucker.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1809_zpscfda8e81.jpg

Bellhousing and block saver bolted up perfectly. No issues at all there. Plenty of room around the bellhousing.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1810_zps5da5bdf5.jpg

Was like this all around, even though the engine was hanging at this point.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1817_zps355b63c4.jpg

Underneath, with the trans as high as it would go in the tunnel

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1821_zps2a23954c.jpg

The biggie. The transmission is as high as it would go in the tunnel and you can see how much further it has to go based on how much the trans mount sticks out underneath the crossmember. It had to go up pretty significantly.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1829_zpsa5b20e2f.jpg

Cut lines. Note that I had to cut the seat brace out to fit my shifter. If you buy a T56 Magnum I am fairly certain you do not have to go that far.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1833_zpscdc7ff38.jpg

Great time to fix that radio I guess.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1837_zps14549c5b.jpg

After cutting, plenty of room.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1840_zps2d1be4e2.jpg

From the top down.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1848_zps54892c2f.jpg

I made some contour curves with some wire and used them to make a 'frame' of sorts to make the new transmission tunnel. I am doing the tunnel in two pieces- an 18" front part and an 8" shifter section so I can mount a shifter boot flat and maybe have more options for making a console later.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1851_zps858badba.jpg

Section of seat crossmember I had to remove; seperated from the floor itself. Came out nice and clean. This will have to be reinstalled to restore the structural integrity of the seat brace.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1857_zps92ffa79f.jpg

Tunnel in progress. Yes, I am fully aware that I am using an oxy rosebud with a wooden frame, and I exercised extreme caution in doing so. We only needed the wooden frame for 15 minutes of metal work. I used 16ga steel.



At this point the tunnel is all done, the mechanicals are in, and I need to get the trans seated in the bellhousing. Then bolt it all up, wire the reverse stuff, measure the DS, and send it out.

[Lt1_8U]

Looks great bill. How did that crossmember work out for you?

[WildBillyT]

Crossmember is fan freaking tastic. Really a nice piece, and I dig that it uses threaded plates vs. nuts in the subframe.

One other note, I used all allen bolts to attach the bellhousing to the block. I don't know why I didn't start doing that years ago. WAY easier to remove.

[Lt1_8U]

That's awesome, my crossmember lined up perfect too! I'm going to run to the store and pick up some of them, and probably use them for my header bolts as well!

It's crazy how much different the size is. I just needed to cut the shifter base hole. And after the crossmember was bolted in I still could have went up another inch maybe inch and 3/4.

[Lt1_8U]

also another question, did you need to cut your drive shaft? i still need to buy a drive shaft because the car didn't come with one and i was unsure of the length lol

[WildBillyT]

Big time. T56 is like 3.5" longer or so.

I am going to re-measure and send my Denny's DS back to Denny since he will cut it down for free.

[Lt1_8U]

Is this guy local? Can you send me his contact info, I need a driveshaft made for my car.

[WildBillyT]

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

Outside of Buffalo NY.

[WildBillyT]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1910_zps51cedca9.jpg

Clutch and bellhousing in

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1911_zps615fd22f.jpg

Had an interference issue. There was an "ear" on the transmission near the middle of the 3 bolts on the left of this picture. It forced the trans out of alignment so I could not get the trans mount bolts in. Cut it off flush with a sawzall and I could pop the bolts right in afterward.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1912_zps15520e1f.jpg

X-Factor crossmember fit great. Nice work American Powertrain. For reference, the threaded plates go above the crossmember, which sits on the subframe, and you bolt up through the bottom. Some seem to think the plates sit IN the subframe- they do not.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/IMAG1930-1_zpse3aa1134.jpg

As it sits.


All that's left to do now:

Measure and send out the driveshaft
Make the electrical connections
Reinstall the interior, add a boot
Reinstall exhaust and e-brake

Well, that and eventually get a speedometer :o

[Blackbirdws6]

Looking good! I assume you are looking to get this ready for the nice weather?

[WildBillyT]

Yep! I want to get the trans done, then get a new set of tires since these are pretty sketchy, and an alignment. Maybe a tune, too.

[Blackbirdws6]

Well I hope its ready so I can see it. Definitely by the Duke Island meet for the cruise.

[WildBillyT]

Well, I actually set a cutoff date to "stop effing with it" so it will be ready for Duke, and I put the Duke date on the family calendar so that's all set.

Which means it will rain that day. :nick:

[sweetbmxrider]

You really took your time with the trans tunnel, looks nice.

[BonzoHansen]

indeed. unlike mine which is far more haxor lol

[donnj]

Looks great Bill, go man go!!!

"One other note, I used all allen bolts to attach the bellhousing to the block. I don't know why I didn't start doing that years ago. WAY easier to remove. "

Brilliant

[Lt1_8U]

Looks great, Your beating me!! Thanks for the link

[donnj]

Jim, The Axle Exchange did mine for my TH400 last year, they cut down and welded up a aluminum DS the same day, EXCELLENT work

[The_Bishop]

Nice clean install.

Is that crossmember solid like it looks, or hollow? Must weigh a ton if it's solid.

[WildBillyT]

Nice clean install.

Is that crossmember solid like it looks, or hollow? Must weigh a ton if it's solid.

Aluminum. Weighs less than the stocker, and is torsion tested to 1000lb-ft.

[Lt1_8U]

Thanks don, I'm going to check out a few places, the one you and bill mentioned and on 46 in Clifton there is a good one.

Bill, when will she be driveabl

[The_Bishop]

Ah, Ok. Aluminum does make more sense.

[elle]

WildBillyT, i sent you a couple messages. I'm not sure if you got them? My message box says zero messages sent? Thanks for the help!--Lou

[chevyt454]

sweet ride

[greenformula92]

Any progress on this WBT?

[WildBillyT]

Been driving it around town a lot. I've got new tires ready to go but haven't had time to get that done as I've been traveling for work a lot. I'm actually at EWR right now.

[WildBillyT]

Little update.

Decided to get some shop time in today and put on an H-pipe and rod ended clutch linkage. Both were well worth the time; the H-pipe smoothed out the exhaust tone and it sounds way better IMO. A little quieter but much deeper.

[WildBillyT]

An update after 3+ years. LOL.

Anyway, last year I disassembled the car and started stripping off the old primer. It seemed like a decent job by the previous owner as it did not come off that easy. Not too many surprises (I knew it had lower quarters done and had some dings here and there) with the only big surprise being the condition of the hood. It's got so much rust that I'm going to just buy an AMD 2" cowl. I don't trust the amount of grinding that's needed on a panel that appears to be very thin and rusted between the supports.

Last week I finally had a chance to get back to it and I finished removing all of the old primer, prepped the steel with the right grit, and did PPG's DX/SX579 and DX/SX520 metal conditioning treatment (to neutralize some old tiny rust spots that I was not sure were active).

Then 2 coats of DP90LF were sprayed.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23154820_10210551997904310_5596717318212801593_o.j pg?oh=aa91b086db509965786617c16916c7ee&oe=5AABCB15

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23000448_10210551998464324_2380882809401703920_o.j pg?oh=9834acc77c313b5e7defbdcc415c0b85&oe=5A6EDD02

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23155036_10210551998744331_4758895107730455033_o.j pg?oh=69c115fe99036441faae3e812a7ef3af&oe=5AA67D7E

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23215764_10210551999304345_4780547554919794603_o.j pg?oh=b11e7ab4fc817c7a750135e2b062a79f&oe=5AAABE53

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23120018_10210551999064339_8025079559400592047_o.j pg?oh=9140a3c7359b4944c0561d2ea680d00c&oe=5AA8D5B7


Now the next step is making heads/tails of the body filler process. It's basically the same monkey **** fight that people have over best synthetic oil, best wax, etc.

Some guys will only put filler over bare steel, others will put it over epoxy primer. Very compelling arguments for both.

The PPG tech sheets say that since I'm going to be well out of my recoat window, I need to scuff the current primer with red scotchbrite/P180, recoat with DP90 again, allow it to cure for a day, and then scuff with P180/apply/shape the Rage Gold.

I'm just not sure if I hit it with DP90 again after finishing the filler to seal it or go straight to surfacer. Or if I trust the PPG recommendation of a 180 grit surface for the filler to adhere to- looks like 80 grit is what seasoned resto guys use.

Thoughts and comments are welcome.

Edit:

Oh, and on a cool side note I found old pit passes from Maple Grove stuck inside the dash. Lines up with the story that the old owner told me about it being an old drag car.
On top of the tickets there was metal fatigue in the torque boxes I had to fix, the car was sold by a performance dealer in Reading PA, and the car is a '68 but wasn't titled until '73 (LOL). Kind of neat.

[PolarBear]

No f'ing way! You're actually working on the car! I bet you're glad you didn't get the car painted when you got it.

My understanding is that you want to put filler on primer, or epoxy since it is plastic and plastic sticks better to "plastic" than it does metal. But I would go with what PPG says since they make all the stuff.

[Blackbirdws6]

Nice to see you are making progress on the car. I wish I could provide some insight into the process but I will ask my Dad what he is doing with the Bird. From what I've seen, he strips it all down, fixes any metal he can (dings, dents, etc), applies the epoxy primer, applies body filler and hits it again with the primer ( I need to check if he is using the epoxy again or another product).

[WildBillyT]

Nice to see you are making progress on the car. I wish I could provide some insight into the process but I will ask my Dad what he is doing with the Bird. From what I've seen, he strips it all down, fixes any metal he can (dings, dents, etc), applies the epoxy primer, applies body filler and hits it again with the primer ( I need to check if he is using the epoxy again or another product).

No f'ing way! You're actually working on the car! I bet you're glad you didn't get the car painted when you got it.

My understanding is that you want to put filler on primer, or epoxy since it is plastic and plastic sticks better to "plastic" than it does metal. But I would go with what PPG says since they make all the stuff.

Thanks guys. :mrgreen: Yeah, life/family can get in the way but I'm still trying to push it forward.

Pretty set on putting filler over the epoxy, it's just what grit to use and if I need to epoxy back over the filler once it's blended.

[Jersey Mike]

No f'ing way! You're actually working on the car!

:nod::nod::nod:

Glad to see you making progress, Bill!

[Blackbirdws6]

Thanks guys. :mrgreen: Yeah, life/family can get in the way but I'm still trying to push it forward.

Pretty set on putting filler over the epoxy, it's just what grit to use and if I need to epoxy back over the filler once it's blended.

My Dad mentioned, and you as well, there is a good debate on what to do first. Pops decided to put the epoxy (or etching primer) on and then the filler. He said if while sanding he hit any bare metal, he would hit it with epoxy primer (or etching) again. I don't recall the sanding grit but he seems to keep mentioning 180.

[wretched73]

My Dad mentioned, and you as well, there is a good debate on what to do first. Pops decided to put the epoxy (or etching primer) on and then the filler. He said if while sanding he hit any bare metal, he would hit it with epoxy primer (or etching) again. I don't recall the sanding grit but he seems to keep mentioning 180.

The arguments here are crazy. Some say never to put filler over etching primer while others say its fine.

A friend of mine who does body work, suggested epoxy only. Epoxy over bare metal, filler, then again with epoxy. Biggest point he made was to make sure the metal was warm so condensation wouldn't get trapped between the primer and filler or the bare metal and filler

[WildBillyT]

My Dad mentioned, and you as well, there is a good debate on what to do first. Pops decided to put the epoxy (or etching primer) on and then the filler. He said if while sanding he hit any bare metal, he would hit it with epoxy primer (or etching) again. I don't recall the sanding grit but he seems to keep mentioning 180.

Yeah, that's what I think I'm going to do. Scuff the epoxy, then filler, then epoxy.

The arguments here are crazy. Some say never to put filler over etching primer while others say its fine.

A friend of mine who does body work, suggested epoxy only. Epoxy over bare metal, filler, then again with epoxy. Biggest point he made was to make sure the metal was warm so condensation wouldn't get trapped between the primer and filler or the bare metal and filler

I think people are pretty consistent with no filler over etch since the acid is the issue. Condensation looks like a bit of a confound so I'm glad I did epoxy first.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

Did you ask Brandon the body guy?

[WildBillyT]

I did not; however I don't think he's been around for a while.

[sweetbmxrider]

I text him to check this thread.

[transmaro93]

Ok think I got the gist of what your asking. You can do it either way. You can fill right over bare metal but for long term projects leaving the metal open creates opportunity surface rust and other contaminates. Dp90 is a great product and what I would use if I was stripping a car down. Epoxy prime pretty much seals off the metal and create a great corrosion resistant base. You CAN do body work over dried dp. I would sand areas to be filled with 100grit. Then do your filler process. They you can spot hit any bare areas with dp or just prime with a direct to metal primer surfacer. Then sand and paint. If this is going to be a show car you could do the extra step and polyester prime the whole car and block all that down for paint.. then you seal and lay color then clear... hope this answers your question

[transmaro93]

Went back and read what I wrote.. you need to use a primer surfacer over any body work before you paint. The primer will have to be blocked and wet sanded smooth for paint

[WildBillyT]

Ok think I got the gist of what your asking. You can do it either way. You can fill right over bare metal but for long term projects leaving the metal open creates opportunity surface rust and other contaminates. Dp90 is a great product and what I would use if I was stripping a car down. Epoxy prime pretty much seals off the metal and create a great corrosion resistant base. You CAN do body work over dried dp. I would sand areas to be filled with 100grit. Then do your filler process. They you can spot hit any bare areas with dp or just prime with a direct to metal primer surfacer. Then sand and paint. If this is going to be a show car you could do the extra step and polyester prime the whole car and block all that down for paint.. then you seal and lay color then clear... hope this answers your question

Went back and read what I wrote.. you need to use a primer surfacer over any body work before you paint. The primer will have to be blocked and wet sanded smooth for paint

Thanks so much!

The whole car is in two coats of DP90 right now, and I've got a gallon of K38 high build surfacer on the shelf ready to go as a next step after filler and metalwork.

Thankfully I don't have any panel replacement to do but there is some filler that will need to go on. I plan on scuffing the current epoxy layer, then spot spray the area with fresh epoxy (as per PPG) and apply the Rage Gold once it's ready. Do you recommend re-epoxying over the filler before spraying surfacer on?

[transmaro93]

No problem. You can re epoxy over bare metal if you want. Or just spot shoot it with some etch primer. Then k38 over everything. It's not necessary to epoxy over body filler. I like to take my body work and what ever I'm priming over down to 320g. Guide coat is your friend. I like to use the dry type for body work

[transmaro93]

Hey just read an article written froma pretty well known body guy. In my never ending journey to improve my work I read alot. Thought of you for this last one. This guy says it's better to do a one light coat of epoxy prime over any bare metal after you do your filler work. Now being your using k38 which I think is direct to metal you may not need to do this but it certainly would ensure and good sealed up base for future corrosion issues. Its your choice but if you have the time and exfra epoxy id go back and just lightly coat those areas. Just enough to be scuffed with a piece of 320 before you prime without breaking back through to bare. Thought I'd pass tis along because it's directly what you asked lol...