73 Camaro "Black Pearl" [Archive] - Page 2?login=1 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

PolarBear

09-01-2013, 07:34 PM

Got a little more done today. I cleaned up the wiring as best I can with what I had to work with, looks OK, but the fuse block is out and visible and will be with the fender on, oh well whatever.

Buttoned up all the stuff under the car, trans crossmember and related and the exhaust. I also made up a shorter fuel line on the return side so it wouldn't touch the brake booster. The stainless braid poked me under the nail and in the pad on my left thumb, then I got gasoline on it, that burned pretty good for about 10 minutes. :facepalm:

I also figured out that the stuff I bought to make my own PS pressure hose isn't going to work, the AN fitting interferes with the pulley, so I am going to have to figure something else out. I think I am going to try a Corvette one, the fitting sizes are correct for what I need. I think it should work, though I may have to tweak the hard lines a little, YEA! another thing to buy :w00t: fortunately it is only $15

Tomorrow hope to get the rad support bushing holes ground out to fit the solid bushings. Have to also mock up a radiator, probably put the BeCool one that I have for sale on there and check what I need for hoses, I think the 4th gen stuff is going to work. I also hope to get the stock spindles cleaned up and the stock brakes and everything put back on the car. I decided to hold off on the wheels for just a little longer, I was a little short on buying the tires even though I had the wheel money.

I think I just need;
Lower rad hose, coolant, air filter, PS pressure hose and PS fluid now.

PolarBear

09-10-2013, 10:23 AM

Sharp looking.

Hey, on the caliper painting front... I painted the calipers on my '98 after rebuilding/replacing. Glass beaded the outside, then painted them with Duplicolor ceramic engine paint in red. Been holding up very well, cleans up easy, and no brushing.

I went ahead and gave this a try since I am putting the stock brakes back on the car. This was an excellent recommendation, I wish I had just gone this way in the first place. The paint is easy to find and lays down very nice after the glass beading.

I painted my spindles low gloss black, calipers the cast coat aluminum and the dust shields and I am going to use the cast iron on all the steering parts as the color is basically the same as the steering parts and will protect them from rust. I'll have pictures later in the week, once I re-pack the bearings and put everything together.

The_Bishop

09-10-2013, 10:39 AM

Glad it worked out for you.

PolarBear

09-10-2013, 09:35 PM

Quickly put my '02 Corvette power steering hose in the car. It is going to work, I just have to tweak the hard lines a little bit to take the stress off everything. Also one of the three radiator hoses I bought will work for my lower hose although I think the one banaro79 used would be an easier choice if I have to do it again.

Tomorrow after work I should be able to get those items on and sorted, get coolant into the engine and run it for more than a few seconds at a time.

I also bought Evans waterless coolant. it is supposed to last the lifetime of the engine and never become corrosive since there is no water in the system.

The_Bishop

09-11-2013, 09:37 PM

That Evans stuff is pricey as hell. Aside from it supposedly lasting forever, what other benefit is there?

Edit: Did some preliminary searching

Found this bit of info about it, and it's not all good news:

-=-=-
Evans coolant is 100% propylene glycol...no water added. Cool thing is it doesn't boil until 360F. Thats great when you think about localized boiling around the cylinders causing hotspots with conventional...with Evans there's no way you're going to get hotspots in the combustion chamber that can possibly cause knock. Bad thing is propylene glycol's specific heat isn't all that great. That effectively makes your radiator act like its smaller than it really is. That also means that when your engine makes a fixed amount of heat the Evans coolant temps will rise more than water will. That's all fine and dandy when you remember that it won't boil until 360F...it has plenty of overhead. The bad thing is the fans run more often than they should since the stock computer thinks you're getting hotter than you should be. The other bad thing is your oil temps go up from the extra heat in the block so you need a nice big oil cooler to manage things. Granted Mobil 1 says its good for 400F but I know most road racers shut things down at 300F. Other negatives to the Evans coolant are the cost and the large expansion rate range of the fluid with temperature swings.
-=-=-

PolarBear

09-12-2013, 09:26 AM

That Evans stuff is pricey as hell. Aside from it supposedly lasting forever, what other benefit is there?

Edit: Did some preliminary searching

Found this bit of info about it, and it's not all good news:

Your standard coolants become acidic over time because of the water and other additives. In theory Evans can never become acidic so you shouldn't have issues with galvanic reaction like you would with a traditional coolant over time dissolving the aluminum in the heads or radiator if the coolant isn't tested and replaced as frequently as it should.

Since this is supposed to last "forever" if I ever had to do any maintenance I would collect and re-use with any work, so I wasn't concerned with the cost since I don't ever PLAN on selling any of my vehicles, so the cost over time is way less than buying a traditional coolant, the initial "investment" is only about double that of traditional. Since this engine will not really see any track use it should not be an issue of the "over heating" problems described above. This will be a "test" for me as I was planning on using this in all my cars, one of which would my toy and see track time, if it doesn't work out, so be it and I am only out a few extra dollars.
The other benefit is that since it is propylene glycol, you can actually drink it, it is completely nontoxic and I would feel better about having my dog in the garage when I work. If she wanders in there now I am always paranoid she is going to find some ethelyne glycol and drink it.

PolarBear

09-12-2013, 09:01 PM

Got out to the garage for a few minutes tonight. I got my power steering hose on and tweaked. It's from an '02 Corvette. It had the proper size fitting ends, I'm using a Corvette power steering pump and since the Holley accessory brackets are really close to the factory GM stuff I thouhgt it was worth a try. It fit pretty well after a little tweaking

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130912_205749.jpg

I also figured out my belt length needed for the accessory's

PolarBear

09-14-2013, 08:58 PM

Well I got the car back on the ground today, after a LOT of bleeding the brakes, thanks to zorns for the help pumping the pedal for probably over an hour

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130914_193015.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130914_193104.jpg

Have a few issues so far, the power steering pump pulley is out further than the crank and the belt walks off the crank. It wound up throwing it after I started it up for a second the last time. The pulley can only go on a small amount more than it already is, so I am not sure what I can do to fix it if pressing it on the remaining amount doesn't work. I used all the parts that Holley recommended, may wind up calling them if nothing works. They did have another pulley they recommended, but I think it was the same offset as what I used, just a different diameter. If I can't get this resolved, the car wont be going to Island next weekend. :-?

Even though the car is on the ground, it's WAY too low, I need to jack it up about 2 inches or I won't be able to get in and out of my driveway. I need a spanner wrench, and Phil has one, I am going to go to his place tomorrow to borrow it. Sucks not having all the tools needed to get the job done, unfortunately this is one I didn't know I was going need.

I also got my lower cooling hose figured out thanks to NastyZ28, but the hose contacts the idler arm and the idler arm bolt. So to protect the hose I took a piece that I cut off for the length and wrapped it at that spot and put some hose clamps on it to hold it. Looks a little strange, but for now it is going to have to do.

Featherburner

09-14-2013, 09:26 PM

I have a spanner you can borrow tomorrow when you pick up the power steering pulley tool.

PolarBear

09-14-2013, 09:44 PM

I have a spanner you can borrow tomorrow when you pick up the power steering pulley tool.

That'd be cool. I didn't think anyone else was going to have them. That would save me over two hours of driving tomorrow. Thanks, I'll you tomorrow

The_Bishop

09-15-2013, 07:26 PM

Install looks good, everything is very neat and tucked away.

PolarBear

09-15-2013, 07:49 PM

Water pump leaks, I am now despondent. filled the block and radiator with coolant and started the car for a few minutes. When I shut it down I saw coolant on everything and a small puddle on the ground. Cleaned up and went in the house for the rest of the day.

Ordered a new water pump, air filter and spanner wrench. Should make the October meet with the car at this rate....

Oh, I also got the belt problem fixed. I borrowed Featherburner's power steering pulley tool again. I ground the shoulder off the back of the pulley a little and then pressed it on again and, although it is off, it doesn't walk the belt off the crank pulley now.

PolarBear

09-15-2013, 07:52 PM

-=-=-
Evans coolant is 100% propylene glycol...
-=-=-

Well apparently this is wrong info. Says right on the bottle contains ethylene glycol and it is poisonous.

sweetbmxrider

09-15-2013, 07:59 PM

Sue for false advertisement. Acquire all teh carbon fibear!

Jersey Mike

09-15-2013, 08:20 PM

Sue for false advertisement. Acquire all teh carbon fibear!

Hiyoooo

WildBillyT

09-15-2013, 08:52 PM

Well apparently this is wrong info. Says right on the bottle contains ethylene glycol and it is poisonous.

Ethyl is such a whore.

Tru2Chevy

09-16-2013, 05:24 PM

From what I remember, only their original NPG coolant is 100% ethylene glycol free.

- Justin

PolarBear

09-16-2013, 05:32 PM

From what I remember, only their original NPG coolant is 100% ethylene glycol free.

- Justin

They still sell it, but it looked like that was really for racing so if you dump it on the track it doesn't mess up everyone's day. I didn't think I needed that

LTb1ow

09-16-2013, 06:13 PM

Distilled water is cheap and easy.

Can be drained without headache too!

PolarBear

09-16-2013, 06:16 PM

Distilled water is cheap and easy.

Can be drained without headache too!

Huh? Do you understand galvanic reaction?

LTb1ow

09-16-2013, 07:15 PM

Huh? Do you understand galvanic reaction?

At least you have similar metal heads and block :lol:

PolarBear

09-16-2013, 07:18 PM

I have dissimilar heads and block....

LTb1ow

09-16-2013, 07:37 PM

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/7684668162_eae3ee3d73.jpg

I run distilled water and a splash of antifreeze.

BonzoHansen

09-16-2013, 07:49 PM

[[/IMG]

I run distilled water and a splash of antifreeze.

me too. well, more than a splash. more like 50/50

ThoR294

09-23-2013, 06:25 AM

I run straight anti-freeze. The more anti-freeze the better, right? guys? :bertstare:

The_Bishop

09-23-2013, 09:32 AM

Yes, just ask the evans guys!

:rofl:

PolarBear

10-14-2013, 09:04 AM

A few weeks ago I bought a new water pump and it came with the gaskets and O ring. I installed the pump, but I didn't put the water outlet on the pump. I then proceed to lose the O ring for the water outlet and I got angry again and put the car aside again for a few more weeks. All because of a $1.27 part.
This weekend I got the water outlet back on and the cooling system filled. Fired it up and let it run for a few minutes and no leaks this time!
I also used my spanner wrench and (hopefully) set my ride height for now. I may need to jack it up again once I have driven the car a little bit though. As I was messing with the car, after I rolled it back and forth a few times, it looks like it dropped a little.
Got my pedal pads installed, they are aluminum and bolt in replacement of the rubber pad. Had to drill holes in the metal pedal pad. Of course they are crooked, but I am not going to fix it right now. No one else will probably notice since they are far under everything.

The last of my "major" projects this go around are to finish my steering column conversion, which is basically putting a 3rd/4th gen column in the car, and to weld in a pin for the clutch master since I had a bolt in there before and I didn't like how it was. Even though I had a bushing in the clevis it still seemed to bind. Now I have the Tick master in there and it has the rod eye and I bought a 3/8" clevis pin. I just need to weld the pin into the pedal arm and that will be complete too.
After that I will do my alignment and front sheet metal and I should then be able to drive again!

PolarBear

11-03-2013, 12:45 PM

I'm never going to get this car finished. I need another tool to put my steering column column together, Hopefully Featherburner has one that I can borrow, if not I'm burning this mother to the ground :lol: I really wanted to bring the car to Race wars tomorrow, but oh well.

aps63

11-06-2013, 11:10 AM

Cars looking great, keep at it.

PolarBear

11-09-2013, 03:29 PM

Well after about 3 years of owning my gauges for the car, I finally got around to wiring them up!

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131109_162622.jpg

Now I just have to mount it in the car and connect the various senders and all my gauges will finally work in the car after 6 years :kneeslap: I was going to paint this one up real well, but I actually have a fabbed aluminum panel to install, just need to get my carbon fiber vernier to cover it and mount up the center indicator panel that I bought a while ago. I got the aluminum panel from Customworks Performance a few months ago since it doesn't have the center hole for the indicator, the one I bought has both turn signals, high beam, check engine, brake and two other indicators. I think this will be a lot more stealth than panel mounted LED's like most people do, plus has the added indicators like an OEM application.

sweetbmxrider

11-09-2013, 03:33 PM

Purdy

Blackbirdws6

11-09-2013, 09:12 PM

Looks nice

BonzoHansen

11-10-2013, 11:57 AM

So you have an indicator panel that fits in that slot?

PolarBear

11-10-2013, 12:08 PM

So you have an indicator panel that fits in that slot?

Not in the factory one exactly, it is a little too small. Originally I was going to make a small aluminum panel to take up the space and tack weld it to the aluminum reinforcement that I put behind the factory gauge bezel, but since I got this aluminum one from Keith I just need to drill out the proper holes for the screws and cut out the indicator portion in between the screw holes.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131110_130637.jpg

Actually I was going to make the whole panel with some smoked plexiglass and put in my own LED's, but this was a lot less work, but a lot more money

PolarBear

11-16-2013, 08:17 PM

Many things happened today, all threads will be updated.

So I got my steering column in the car finally, after like a year. I HATE steering columns at this point, I could disassemble and reassemble one with my eyes closed now. I got the column most of the way together, then realized I forgot a part, repeat that about 5 times and then you finally have success. Also doesn't help that I was missing a few parts, took them from another column and then at the end of the night I was cleaning up old parts and I found the parts I was missing :evil: No pictures of that, it's a steering column.

So I also got the braided loom and covered up the fuel injector wires and the wires to the throttle body etc.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131116_182414.jpghttp://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131116_182405.jpg

What wires? At least in the front now. I also covered up some of the other stuff in the back. I would cover that huge mass of wires, but nothing I have will fit over it. I may undo the zip ties and cover parts individually and tie them all together to make it look a little better.

I also got the gauge cluster all wired and in the car, I just have to wire in the fuel level sender, I don't want to cut the factory harness since I am going to be replacing it with an AAW harness and I am hoping I may be able to sell the factory harness since it is in pretty good shape still. I am pretty stoked to have a fully functional dash!

And finally for S&G's I had the car move under its own power since the swap! :w00t: It was only about an inch forward and back, but it seemed good.

Tomorrow is trimming the Borgeson steering shaft to fit in place of the stock one. I got the collapsible shaft and the ball bearing U joints. Still tons of little stuff to do, I hope to get a bunch done tomorrow.

PolarBear

11-17-2013, 01:56 PM

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131117_142856.jpg

WildBillyT

11-17-2013, 02:06 PM

Woot!

Blackbirdws6

11-17-2013, 04:29 PM

Wow...

sweetbmxrider

11-17-2013, 05:06 PM

Very cool!

edpontiac91

11-17-2013, 06:57 PM

Featherburner

11-17-2013, 08:27 PM

Bear, go rake your leaves!

BonzoHansen

11-17-2013, 08:28 PM

Bear, go rake your leaves!

:kneeslap::rofl::kneeslap::rofl::kneeslap::rofl:

PolarBear

11-17-2013, 08:30 PM

GREAT looking garage floor, nice matte finish, clean, OH and the car in the background looks cool. Really some very impressive shots of the motor, very neat and orderly looking. Hope it runs as well as it looks when finished!:drive:

It's just a bare concrete floor, I want to paint it eventually, but that requires cleaning the garage out, and I have a ton of crap in there

Bear, go rake your leaves!

Besides that spot there aren't enough to make it worth it yet. Those are only there because of the wind, lol. That is one outside chore that I actually do

ar0ck

11-17-2013, 11:25 PM

I love that you can get at it from both sides!

PolarBear

11-18-2013, 06:46 AM

I love that you can get at it from both sides!

With the wheels and suspension off it is even better. don't have to lean at all to get to the engine, still can like this, just have to stand behind the wheel

PolarBear

11-22-2013, 08:18 PM

Worked on my other bezel tonight. I cut the hole out for the indicator cluster that I bought and mounted it.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131122_153438.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131122_153425.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131122_153449.jpg

Then I put my Carbon FiBear Veneer on the panel and trimmed it all to fit. I bonded the veneer to the bezel with contact cement. After it was set up I cut the excess off, cut the holes for the gauges and sanded the edges of the veneer so it is the same size as the panel.

Took a few hours to do all this and a few cuts, and a few bleeding fingers...... The plastic is still on the veneer in this picture. I have to open up the 2 1/16" holes for the angle rings that I am going to use, going to use the die grinder tomorrow to make short work of that, then I can peel the plastic and mount the gauges in this panel instead of the factory one that I modified in the other picture.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131122_192222.jpg

I do have two switches to mount in the panel and I am not sure whether I want to put the cigarette lighter in or leave it out. Alternatively, I bought a dual USB power charger that mounts like a cig lighter, but I am not sure whether I want to put that in the panel either. I REALLY like the carbon look, but the panel kind of looks empty without anything over there. I guess I'll see how the panel looks with the gauges in there and make my decision afterwards.

transmaro93

11-23-2013, 07:26 AM

dude that looks awesome... very nice work.i made one of these out of sheeetmetal for my 73 when i was like 17 and it didnt come out nearly as nice as that. what gauges are you going with or your not sure yet?

PolarBear

11-23-2013, 08:45 AM

I bought Autometer Ultra Lite II's they are a few pages/posts back

sweetbmxrider

11-23-2013, 09:51 AM

Make me one?

WildBillyT

11-23-2013, 10:17 AM

Make me one?

Me too

PolarBear

11-23-2013, 03:10 PM

Make me one?

Me too

You both want one for a '70-'77 Camaro? It'll be like $400 :rofl:

Featherburner

11-23-2013, 03:37 PM

You both want one for a '70-'77 Camaro? It'll be like $400 :rofl:

Including all the gauges? Sound like an awesome deal!

PolarBear

11-23-2013, 03:38 PM

$1600 with gauges

sweetbmxrider

11-23-2013, 07:02 PM

Sounds like its worth more than my car, lets duit.

PolarBear

11-23-2013, 07:12 PM

You send money first

PolarBear

11-26-2013, 08:10 PM

Here is the mostly completed panel with the gauges.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20131124_173251.jpg

I am a little disappointed with a few minor things, but it won't be noticeable mounted in the car. When I used the hole cutter for the lighter it forced some chips in between the bezel and the veneer. I picked out what I could but there is still some crap in there and the hole around the lighter isn't flat so it looks funny in the light. And I am also not happy with the veneer in the bends to the sides, it pulled away from the aluminum even though I used a dowel and clamps there. It's not the end of the world, but I know it's like that. I have another piece of carbon veneer that I can re-do it if I ever really want to fix those problems.

I have to file out the notch for the headlight switch a little as the one cut is too small for the headlight switches I have, that won't take long to fix though. Also the little red switch under the speedo is a momentary for the reverse lockout solenoid. I will wire that in series using power from the brake light switch so I have to brake and press the button to engage the solenoid. Unfortunately I broke this switch when I was mounting it, the back side is plastic. As I was holding it and tightening the nut on the front the plastic on the reverse tore and it isn't going to work.
I also have to make up a bracket for the dash side, all the tabs on my dash are broken, so I have no way to mount the cluster in there. For now it sits in the spot and will stay put, but it may move around a bit.

Blackbirdws6

11-26-2013, 08:28 PM

Came out great.

PolarBear

11-26-2013, 08:37 PM

Honestly, the picture doesn't do it justice

Featherburner

11-26-2013, 08:49 PM

I can see why you are disappointed. I'll help you out and take that mess off your hands for $150.

Blackbirdws6

11-27-2013, 06:34 AM

Honestly, the picture doesn't do it justice

Take a pic with a nice clean white background. Basically minus the other stuff in the pic.

PolarBear

11-27-2013, 06:49 AM

Uhhh, I don't have that

sweetbmxrider

11-27-2013, 07:13 AM

A white blanket? White paper? White out?

Looks nice.

PolarBear

11-27-2013, 07:25 AM

No, not really, and no.

Yous people will just have to see it in person. I don't have good lighting or camera so I am not going to get a good picture of it

sweetbmxrider

11-27-2013, 07:44 AM

Google how to build a light box, you'll make it look absolutely amazing with just a camera phone. I'm not trying to ride you here, just a suggestion.

PolarBear

11-27-2013, 08:27 AM

That takes away from the parts budget :rofl: If you mooks want to see it better, come on down :kneeslap:

PolarBear

01-12-2014, 05:22 PM

Been sick a few times over the winter but I finally got out into the garage this weekend. I finally got the fuel pump relay trigger wire run down the wiring channel and the old wiring harness from the Holley EFI out. I had temporarily run the control wire out the window and over the quarter panel into the trunk! :rofl: Got that cleaned up and started to re-wire the fan. Looks like I am going to need to buy some heavy gauge wire to run the fan though. The current circuit is a bit cobbled.

PolarBear

01-15-2014, 12:08 PM

AutoRad ordered, my wallet is angry at me right now :lol:

I decided to go with the suction and return for the hoses on the passenger side instead of the return on the LH side. This will allow me un-interrupted access to run the air intake to the drivers side without having to cross over the upper cooling hose.

8 week build time, so I'll have the rest of the cash, after the $500 deposit, from my income tax return.

BonzoHansen

01-15-2014, 12:13 PM

did you order the whole rad support setup?

PolarBear

01-15-2014, 12:18 PM

Support, radiator, dual fans, overflow and brackets welded on for the A/C condenser for future purchase. I'll get that when I am closer to putting the AC in the car, probably next spring.

BonzoHansen

01-15-2014, 12:58 PM

nice. http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/images/smilies/G-Dub.gif

PolarBear

01-15-2014, 03:01 PM

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/images/smilies/G-Dub.gif

Yeah, pretty much. Wheels are my other big purchase this year.

BonzoHansen

01-15-2014, 03:12 PM

just don't complain about money lol

PolarBear

01-15-2014, 03:38 PM

just don't complain about money lol

:scratch:

When have I ever. Lol. I've been thinking about getting another useless car..... heh

PolarBear

01-16-2014, 07:14 AM

70-73 Camaro ... 73 Camaro Radiator/Core Support with Overflow Bottle, LS Motor, Stock Sub-Frame, 1-1/4" Hose Connections 1,400.00

Dual Fans w/Sh... Dual Fans and shroud for Camaro 450.00

AC Brackets Ac Brackets 40.00

Subtotal 1,890.00

Freight 115.30

:shock:

WildBillyT

01-16-2014, 07:52 AM

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/milliondollarbear_zps957b5dc2.jpg

sweetbmxrider

01-16-2014, 08:58 AM

Its carbon fibear, right?

PolarBear

01-16-2014, 09:06 AM

Aluminum, but that's OK. It's lighter than steel, it won't rust and it has a higher capacity radiator than what I have now and will look awesome doing it all

BonzoHansen

01-16-2014, 09:21 AM

Aluminum, but that's OK

you should have it covered in c/f.

PolarBear

01-18-2014, 05:30 PM

"Just one thing" today, haven't felt like working on the car much but I got my ass off the couch and into the garage today.

I put the diode in between the power lug and the crank lug on the starter so I don't have that induced voltage driving the starter since I am using the ford type relay right now.

I also finished looming the exposed wires near the heater delete plate, the alternator wire and the wire from the alternator that I will use to power my fan. For now I just butt spliced the wire in two places that was there from the previous owner and made it all look a little better. I also got a relay kit that has the correct pins for the connectors to the ECM. I have to take the connectors off and put the pi n in the proper terminal, then the fan will be controlled by the computer rather than the temperature sensor/relay module that was in the car when I bought it.

I am really close to being able to drive it now. I have to swap out the 3rd gen intermediate steering shaft with the collapsible Borgeson unit with the U joints, put the sheet metal and nose on the car, front light harness, rubber under carpet shifter boot and the alignment. Just a few other little things under the dash to finish and I should be able to drive this thing. Other winter project is to put the e-brake cables together under the car so I can finally use that too. Also have to run two wires for the reverse circuit and pin in the reverse lockout solenoid.

Monday is MLK day, so I plan on attempting to use that time to get a little more done on the car, maybe the under dash stuff......

PolarBear

01-20-2014, 06:23 PM

Got "one more thing" done today. The little tab for the headlight switch wouldn't fit in the aluminum gauge panel so I used my jewelers file to make the slotted part a little larger and the switch back in place. Tightened the jamb nut for the fuel pressure regulator.

I also did my alignment and tightened up all the jamb nuts and pivot bolts for the SPC upper arms. The alignment isn't perfect, but it should do for now and it will be quite close if/when I get it to a shop. I got about -1° of camber and 5.25° castor on the drivers side and -1° and 5.5° on the passenger side. Still have to set the toe and put all the cotter pins in the steering linkage and then grease all the fittings, upper and lower.

Also put the pin in the computer for the fan, not I just have to go out there with the laptop and try to figure out how to make it turn on Fan #1 since the trucks didn't get electric fans for that year(s)

Also learned that the new lower valence I got doesn't fit that well, I think. I don't have a good GM one necessarily to measure against. Time will tell when I start really bolting that all together. The Carbon nose is also going to a total pain to fit, holes in the carbon piece don't line up in the lower valence, Anvil should have just left the holes out and let the fitter/body guy drill the holes in the appropriate place. Now I am going to have to fill the holes, or put a backer piece of metal there to sandwich the fiberglass, the latter is easier since I can just trim a piece to length and then lay over the lower valence, drill holes in that and then use a nut and screw through all three pieces.

I also learned that, at the very least, my drivers fender has some plastic in it from what looks like a minor accident. Oh well, my cousin will fix that in the future :lol: Oh and something in the accessory drive is now squeaking :-x

Sheet metal, radiator support bushings, shifter boot, tighten clutch/brake cross bolt, and tarq lug nuts left to do

BonzoHansen

01-20-2014, 08:42 PM

How did you align it?

PolarBear

01-20-2014, 09:04 PM

With my SPC Fastrax that I bought

PolarBear

02-08-2014, 04:59 PM

"Drove" the pearl today

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20140208_114544.jpg

Switched the cars around to work in the garage. I have to say, the quick stint just while I was backing up and moving forward, that little 4.8 is no slouch, should be fun even even though it's only about 280 horse!

PolarBear

03-04-2014, 10:13 AM

Seat brackets and sliders came yesterday. I have to vacuum out all the soy bean husks now and get some new hardware for the floor, then the seats can go in.

Also my AutoRad should arrive in the next 2 weeks or so, they called this morning for the remainder of the payment :knock:

Blackbirdws6

03-04-2014, 11:05 AM

When does this build get some boost?

PolarBear

03-04-2014, 11:22 AM

When does this build get some boost?

As soon as someone decides to donate a device that will provide sufficient boost for the platform, need all the parts though. I can assemble or fabricate if needed.
I really want an LS9 supercharger on top of the engine

Blackbirdws6

03-04-2014, 11:34 AM

Its only money. Make it rain.

PolarBear

03-04-2014, 11:45 AM

Its only money. Make it rain.

The coffers are limited, I would get a new engine before buying boost, that's why I keep saying If someone were to donate it I would do it.

Blackbirdws6

03-04-2014, 12:41 PM

The coffers are limited, I would get a new engine before buying boost, that's why I keep saying If someone were to donate it I would do it.

Could the blower you buy be used with a new engine? Skip the baller wheels and make some pah!

PolarBear

03-04-2014, 01:15 PM

Could the blower you buy be used with a new engine? Skip the baller wheels and make some pah!

The LS9 blower bolts to the LS9/LS3/L92 head, but that won't fit on an LR4 the 4.8/5.3 block. I would have to buy the MAST black label small cylinder heads to be able to use them on this little engine, but I'd probably need new pistons....... But really, I NEED new wheels to fit over the better brakes and even with the power of the 4.8 I think it is going to be able to blow the tires off like I am riding around on doughnut spares :kneeslap: so I don't think I need a blower or turbo right now

The rad support will probably the last bit of money I spend on this car this year besides gas and insurance, maybe tires if I don't figure out wheels before spring.
Also I have another project to start spending more money on, not a ton, but there are a few expensive things I need to make the truck nicer. I need to rebuild the other frame/suspension and put a seat in it. Foam and seat cover are over $500 plus a lot of the nickle and dime stuff.

PolarBear

03-06-2014, 02:02 PM

I just saw the bill for the remainder of that AutoRad, ugh.

I threw one of my seats in the car last night. Now I understand why GM went to a stud for the seat tracks. All you guys with newer cars probably don't know what I'm talking about. Took me like two minutes to get one damn bolt started through the carpet, I can't even imagine having to do that in all 8 positions. I'll have to look through ARP's catalog and see if they have any nice 5/16" studs that I can permanently install in the floor.

WildBillyT

03-06-2014, 02:41 PM

PolarBear

03-06-2014, 02:44 PM

My Nova has studs.

You can probably just get 5/16 bolts and cut the heads off.

I actually just ordered some studs from McMaster Carr with thread repair kit (to fix the steering wheel in the Firebird) and some locking flange head nuts for the seats

That's odd that the Camaro is bolts and your Nova is older. I think the truck also had holes in the floor and not studs, but I'll have to double check though

sweetbmxrider

03-06-2014, 06:30 PM

My 93 f250 was bolts. It was a sliding bench seat too. Fun times for sure.

PolarBear

03-10-2014, 08:43 AM

So I got the seats in over the weekend. Fortunately I had some help as the slider on the LH side of the drivers seat was stuck for some reason. Even though I had the locking lever out the slider wouldn't slide. My friend had to get in the back and push with his feet while I pulled while sitting in the seat.
The good; the seats are really comfortable and I think they look good in the car.
The Bad; the seat pan is really tall compared to the factory seat and with the brackets and sliders my head almost touches the headliner and getting in and out I hit my head on the roof. I am of average height and I was no where near the roof before. I may wind up taking the slider out on the drivers side and mounting the seat directly to the bracket, or at the very least I am going to try to cut the bracket down to make the rear of the seat lower. But it is going to stay this way for a little while since i just want to drive already.

JSPERFORMANCE

03-10-2014, 08:55 AM

Procharger.. I can get you a SCREAMIN deal....

You fixed my airflow problem.. Let me help you fix yours!

PolarBear

03-10-2014, 09:00 AM

LOL, thanks but I have other stuff I need to buy this year, so unless it is free.....

JSPERFORMANCE

03-10-2014, 09:17 AM

Free, I can not do... When you're ready well come up with a killer package..

PolarBear

03-15-2014, 07:56 PM

Only a year later...
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20140315_200514.jpg

BonzoHansen

03-15-2014, 08:57 PM

did you put the front end together before your new rad support came in?

PolarBear

03-15-2014, 09:05 PM

No, rad support comes Monday

PolarBear

03-17-2014, 07:30 PM

All I can say is this thing is awesome. Extremely well made and highly recommend.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20140317_192142.jpg

Unfortunately it looks like they designed it so you have to trim the inner fender in the battery tray area, which I didn't know. Which means I have to trim my carbon fibear inner fender :shock:

I am going to call tomorrow to confirm that is correct before I start cutting.

There was one small spot where a weld interfered with the bracket for the support to frame bushing. I just took the file and knocked the spot down

They made an interesting choice regarding the mounts for the AC condenser though, the mounts are welded to the radiator, not the support like I would have thought. On the plus side, between this and the carbon fiber, the rear of the car looks like complete utter crap. I am going to have to make a hood latch brace out of aluminum to replace the steel one now, since that looks like crap, and I don't need the tabs on that like a factory setup needs the brace for support on the grille or surround. I also screwed up the bung for the overflow hose nipple and the threads on the nipple

Blackbirdws6

03-17-2014, 08:20 PM

Man, look at all that room for activities. Rad support looks great but I would shed a tear having to cut the new carbon fiber things.

PolarBear

03-17-2014, 08:29 PM

Man, look at all that room for activities. Rad support looks great but I would shed a tear having to cut the new carbon fiber things.

:kneeslap:

yeah It won't be an easy thing to do. I will basically have to cut the flange that would mount to the old support and into the battery tray slightly. If I wind up having to do it It'll probably take 1,000,000 tries to get it right

Featherburner

03-17-2014, 09:13 PM

Something must have happened with your keyboard and this didn't come out very well so I decided to help you out.

I also screwed up the bung for the overflow hose nipple and the threads on the nipple

ar0ck

03-17-2014, 10:34 PM

That is one sexy looking front end!

PolarBear

03-29-2014, 07:24 PM

Turns out I was wrong about cutting the inner fenders. I didn't realize I was putting them in the wrong area on the back of the rad support. After I attached the other parts that came with it I realized that they provisioned attaching the battery tray to the back of the support as the OEM did. I had to clip the corner off one of the spots where it interfered with placement, but it was very minor. Unfortunately they put the hole in the wrong spot for the inner hole for the battery tray, so I'll have to drill new ones. I even checked against my stock inner fenders and it was off against them too.
Also had to use the die grinder on a few of the holes for the RH inner fender-to-outer to get all the bolts in the holes but that was all pretty minor too. I'll have to take the Rad support off a few more times but I should have made some decent progress by the end of the day tomorrow

PolarBear

04-02-2014, 02:03 PM

Backspacing issues aside, I am getting a set of Year One Z28's (http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1745030&postcount=1) in 17x8 and 17x9 for the car. I don't expect to use them forever, but it is a relatively inexpensive wheel that looks good on the car. Year One has free shipping right now and Keith is giving me an even better deal, so I figure I won't be out too much to get something on the car this year. These should hold me over a season or two.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3525/3884259689_1abc797c50.jpg

BonzoHansen

04-02-2014, 02:13 PM

will that let you put the good brakes on?

PolarBear

04-02-2014, 02:22 PM

Yes, and mostly the reason I am getting them

BonzoHansen

04-02-2014, 03:31 PM

cool

PolarBear

04-07-2014, 08:27 PM

UPS JUST delivered, so I had to put one on right away.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20140407_212232.jpg

Now I have to find money for tires :shock:

Now it's time for bed

Mike

04-07-2014, 09:01 PM

Find some at the swap meet

PolarBear

04-08-2014, 06:39 AM

Find some money at the swap meet?

Mike

04-08-2014, 06:51 AM

Sure sell some crap then buy tires

PolarBear

04-08-2014, 08:07 AM

That's a good point. There is an LS1 sitting in my garage that I'll never use :rofl:

Mike

04-08-2014, 08:14 AM

It will be used before the fire pit sitting next to it

PolarBear

04-08-2014, 08:30 AM

You may use it, but not I :rofl:

WSex

03-23-2015, 07:05 PM

update?

WSex

10-06-2015, 10:01 PM

Update?

PolarBear

10-07-2015, 08:36 AM

No engine, no trans, sitting in the driveway. It may wind up with a stock 454/TH400 in the spring after I play musical chairs with the engines in the truck and the suburban and the 6.2 in the garage if I can get that running

**Posted from Minnesota**

10-07-2015, 12:25 PM

i think a certain part from that 3rd gen needs to be bought by me ;-) , lol

WildBillyT

10-07-2015, 01:20 PM

PolarBear

10-07-2015, 01:47 PM

i think a certain part from that 3rd gen needs to be bought by me ;-) , lol

Not sure what you mean, but if it is what I think it is then you already have one :rofl:

Where is the 4.8/T56 now?

In the white/patina/burned car for exhaust mockup. It may go back in the Pearl, but right now the plan is to put the 4.8/T56 into the Yellow car, once I get the 69 Suburban completed. I have another/another T56 I can put in the pearl behind the 454 though.....

10-07-2015, 02:51 PM

Not sure what you mean, but if it is what I think it is then you already have one :rofl:

I actually have two now lol but none in good enough shape yet ready for paint :-D

WildBillyT

10-07-2015, 03:39 PM

Not sure what you mean, but if it is what I think it is then you already have one :rofl:

In the white/patina/burned car for exhaust mockup. It may go back in the Pearl, but right now the plan is to put the 4.8/T56 into the Yellow car, once I get the 69 Suburban completed. I have another/another T56 I can put in the pearl behind the 454 though.....

What are you mocking up? Turbos?

PolarBear

10-10-2015, 01:17 PM

I am pretty sure he is talking about a body panel :rofl:

WildBillyT

10-10-2015, 02:20 PM

I am aware of that, "notchbackgta" :lol:

I meant exhaust mockup?

PolarBear

10-10-2015, 02:32 PM

Oh, nothing like that then. I am just going to make a stock routing exhaust for the 4.8 like the 3rd gen has, I got a Magnaflow Y pipe from CTW and I have to modify it to work with the F-body manifolds

PolarBear

10-04-2017, 03:54 PM

Holy old thread Batman. :shock:
I picked up an aluminum 5.3 with 110,000 miles on it to put in the old black pearl. I got all new gaskets and have almost everything I need to put it back together and into the car. I got a little done on cleaning the engine up over the weekend. I pulled one head, chased all the threaded holes and put it in the parts washer to get all the old road grime off it. At any rate, I hope to get the car back together and running again in the next few weekends, so I can move it out of the driveway since I need the space to get work done on other projects. The only caveat is that I need to make sure that my "aftermarket" T56 will work with the LS engine, since I am not sure whether the crack sticks out farther/closer from the back of the block than does a SBC/BBC, otherwise this will have been (somewhat) in vain, since I don't have the money to rebuild my production T56. Yeah, so what? I have 2 T56s sitting around :rofl:

Also had some good news and bad news within a few minutes of each other. I got the OK from my body guy to start working on the car, but then a few minutes later he told me I shouldn't bother doing the car unless I clean out the garage and can keep it in there :rofl: so it doesn't go to pot sitting outside all the time. I guess I will have to give up my prime spot in line and let someone else get their car worked on :cry:

Jersey Mike

10-04-2017, 05:08 PM

Or buy an enclosed shelterlogic canopy for it to protect it from going to hell

PolarBear

10-04-2017, 05:24 PM

Why would I do that when I have a garage?

sweetbmxrider

10-05-2017, 10:36 AM

Just prime over it before day's end

PolarBear

10-09-2017, 01:45 PM

So, with my piles of parts lying around I am trying to use the same transmission I already had in the car at one point. It is the "aftermarket" T56, and I had it on the BBC with the 3rd gen bellhousing and hydraulics. Now that I will be putting in a LSx I needed to make sure everything will work together. I bolted up the bell and measured the spacing for the input shaft, and it will work with the large diameter roller bearing that mounts in the end of crank, where the snout for a torque converter would mount. The problem lies with the throwout bearing situation, the 2nd gen engine swap headers come down fairly close to the back of the side of the block. This is the area where the external slave for the 3rd gen would normally go, so that's not going to work.

I called Hanlon and spoke with Bob a few times about all this, and he is fairly sure that I will be able to use an aftermarket style hydraulic bearing. I gave him the measurements of the bearing retainer that came on my setup, and it looks good right now. I will have to mount up my flywheel and clutch setup and make sure I will have the proper clearance between the slave in the collapsed position and the fingers on the pressure plate. If I don't have quite enough space, Bob said he can machine down the bearing retainer I have to get me a little more room.
I cannot recommend Hanlon enough here. Bob is a great guy, and very knowledgeable on all things Tremec :nod: He was even somewhat familiar with the transmission, seeing as they were never offered in a production vehicle, he had still seen a few of them in his time. The nice thing about this transmission is that is a "close" ratio compared to the LS T56's, at least that is my understanding. 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1, .8, .62 is the spread, so it has a slightly lower first gear compared to the other.

Over the weekend I also got the garage cleaned up a bit more and a little more of the 5.3 cleaned up. I got a complete gasket set, and I got one head completely clean and all the valve seals replaced. I didn't realize though, that one head has a broken exhaust manifold bolt in it :evil: when I got it I saw two broken bolts, but they were broken flush with the manifold, so I had something to grab with the vice grips. One was easy and the other gave me a fight, but I didn't see the third bolt broken flush with the head. I can get it out, I just wasn't expecting to have to deal with more broke stuff. I'll try an easy out, gently, and then if that doesn't work I will break out the welder and weld a nut to it.

PolarBear

10-11-2017, 06:54 PM

Measured the height of the PP fingers relative to the bell face and whatnot. I have about .23" of depth between the plate and the compressed height of the hydraulic bearing that Bob can sell me. Will call tomorrow and get it ordered so I can continue to make progress.

This weekend I will be wrenching on the Banana, I got almost the whole second bay cleaned out in the garage. Woot, I get to pull the transmission out

WildBillyT

10-11-2017, 07:15 PM

PolarBear

10-11-2017, 07:16 PM

Project Chiquita?

That's what someone at work said too, lol

Mike

10-16-2017, 10:13 AM

White car gone?

PolarBear

10-16-2017, 12:31 PM

White car gone?

:kneeslap:

Oh, wait, you're serious? :rofl: no, and it's really in the way, and taking a spot away from the Camaro. I did take a lot of the parts that were sitting on it, off this past weekend though

PolarBear

10-26-2017, 06:48 PM

So I got the new throwout bearing for the 5 speed 3rd gen setup that will work for this combination. I will need to plumb it once I get everything in the car, should only need a short piece of hose from the master to the bellhousing and a few -3 fittings. I am going to hard plumb some stainless tube from the bearing to the edge of the bell, where the shift fork comes through and secure it to the bell with a clamp, so I don't have to worry about anything moving around inside there. I don't like the thought of putting hose all the way in there.

I have slowly been ordering parts and getting stuff done with the engine. Tonight I got the broken bolt out of the head, I just fired up the MIG and turned up the voltage and got that bi tch orange hot, then got a nut on it and it came right out. I have one head off and all scrubbed clean with new valve seals and now that I got out the bolt, I can pull the other off and get it cleaned up. BUT, I think I convinced myself to put a cam in the engine :lol: I was just going to put it back in as inexpensive as possible, but things keep snowballing. The more I was cleaning stuff the more I wanted more stainless bolts, so the ARP Stainless bolt kit is $$$, so I thought, why not a timing set, this one seems pretty loose. But then I thought, well why put in a new timing set if I am using the stock cam and springs. If I put a cam in it, I guess I should do a rocker trunnion upgrade, and an oil cooler..... and :kneeslap:

So I have no chance of getting this all in the car by the end of the weekend now. Fortunately I keep jumping on little projects for the Suburban at the same time. I cleaned up some of the parts for that, and I am getting ready to bead blast them.