Ignition switch?
Turn the key on and I have fuel pressure, coil, injectors etc but no crank. Mind you this has happened over the past few years intermittently but since the latest work I figured I was good and this is the first time it happened when I was all set to go for the first road test.
VATS has been disabled with a resistor and tuned out, the starter enable relay has been bypassed to a direct path to the neutral safety switch on the clutch. I checked with a test light and I have no power at either side of the NSS which tells me it's the ignition switch. However I've read it's usually wires in the column itself. Is the sole purpose of the ignition switch to supply power to the starter? After reading up on changing it out, I'm very tempted to put in a push button start in place of the cigarette lighter being powered off the ignition and never looking back. Thoughts? |
In your 3rd gen?
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Yes
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1 Attachment(s)
Your ign switch is multifunction controlling acc/run/start circuits. They are cheap and easy to change. No related wires in column but that vats. Should be generally straight forward to troubleshoot with a test light.
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Fair enough, I'll give it a shot. I didn't realize they were that cheap. I just read how they were a pain in the ass to change and some other people having to replace everything in the column and still having intermittent start issues when everything else obvious was replaced etc etc. I'm sick of wiring on this thing lol
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Everything is external on a 3rd gen column. There's a rod that runs down to make the switch work. There's also as adjustment. Its possible that the switch slid down the column a little and the rod isn't making enough contact with it. Its pretty straight forward. Easiest way to do it is to drop the column down but space is limited
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Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I find
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I had the same problem.It was the ignition switch down on the column.
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I didn't get a chance to post back but I got a new ignition switch put in and all is well!
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w00t! Glad to hear it
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