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Old 09-22-2006, 07:38 AM   #1
r0nin89
 
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Project Budget 383ci

Alright so I've put alot of ideas on here lately for comments. My last idea was a turbo 355 that lasted for all of a month once I realised how much money it would take. Before that was the 327 but the parts soon proved to also be out of my price ranged for my goal. So now I've come back to my roots for my engine swap with the idea that big cubes = free power for cheap.
When I turned to summit and found that a whole 383 rotating assembly was a whopping $900 I said to myself "Hey thats $200 more than the crank I was looking at for my turbo355 and 327." So now that I am more in the realm of realism with a price I'm looking at.

My main question is 5.7 rods or 6.0 rods? Whats the difference?

1) $300 for block machine work
2) $900 for a complete eagle 383 rotating assembly
4)$1050 for ported and upgrade valvetrain vortecs
$0 for my intake manifold because its included in the head package


URL's
1)Duh...
2)http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku3)http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2175...PM-Air-Gap.htm
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Last edited by r0nin89; 09-22-2006 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:11 AM   #2
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a 6" rod will set the wrist pin higher in the piston so you can use a shorter piston. some say you can rev it higher witha 6" rod because there is less reciprocating mass and others say its bad to use a short lightweight piston becasue detonation will destroy it easier since there is less material on the top.

what shop is going to do machine work for $300?
mine was $1800 for align honing and boring the mains and bores. the bores were done with a torque plate and i have splayed mains so that might be why its higher, but i thought even a budget would be more then $300 in macinhe work.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:28 AM   #3
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6.0" rods will primarily put less side load on the piston. With a stroker, using a lighter piston is better.

You probably won't get quality machine work for $300... does that include tanking, magging, boring+honing (with torque plates) and the whole 9 yards?
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Old 09-23-2006, 10:10 AM   #4
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I've got to talk to my machinist but he did my entire 350 with the whole 9 yards including balancing and new pistons for $1000. It was a guestimate and he is the best machinist in town. Make that ocean/monmouth county....
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Old 09-23-2006, 10:40 AM   #5
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Nice set of vortec heads in the FS section that would help maintain a budget...
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Old 09-23-2006, 11:48 AM   #6
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have you out any thought into a cam yet? i saw you have alomost everything picked out but a cam...
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Old 09-23-2006, 12:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
Nice set of vortec heads in the FS section that would help maintain a budget...
Thank you so much for that... saving me $600 and stuff...

No I havent thought about a cam yet... I am open to suggestions seeing as how I dont know what will yeild what kind of gas mileage.

PS: Any idea what the rotating assembly I linked will give me for compression ratio with iron vortecs? I am aiming for 9:1
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Last edited by r0nin89; 09-23-2006 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Thank you so much for that... saving me $600 and stuff...

No I havent thought about a cam yet... I am open to suggestions seeing as how I dont know what will yeild what kind of gas mileage.

PS: Any idea what the rotating assembly I linked will give me for compression ratio with iron vortecs? I am aiming for 9:1
Curious- Why 9:1?
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Old 09-23-2006, 10:23 PM   #9
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Safe pump gas ratio.
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Safe pump gas ratio.
Are you looking for 87 or is pump premium ok?
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:42 PM   #11
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well, just as a comparison, i got my 383 long block with dart heads for 1900 assembled. my cam, lifters, timing gears, pusrods and rockers were about another 1100 and i installed those myself.

that 300 may cover machine work, buit unless that shop is VERY cheap, that doesnt include balancing of the rotating assembly, installation of cam bearings, or final assembly.

Also, check to make sure what type of balancer and flywheel you need. int. or ext. balanced. If you are running a t5 and a pre-86 block, have fun finding a 153t ext balanced flywheel.

Also, is that eagle setup for a 2piece rear main block or a 1 peice? what type is the current 350 block you have?
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Are you looking for 87 or is pump premium ok?
premium


As far as balancing I plan to buy a prebalanced kit and assembling everything myself. I figure the machine work will just be a bath for the block and 30 over.

I am going to call my shop and get exact prices.

PS: Whats the diff between a longblock and short block?
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Whats the diff between a longblock and short block?
No offence but I asked that about a week ago to koll, but im not the one saying Im gonna build a motor my self
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Old 09-24-2006, 05:00 PM   #14
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n00b yes inexperienced no. I built one up with my dad and have my head wrapped around it. I figured I'd read a few books before I did it and pick up the rest of the knowledge. Although I am comptemplating taking the 355 I already have built and dropping these heads ontop...

I have in my basement a 9.5:1 355 with a hot cam, edelbrock rpm, holley carb and **** heads. Right now my machinist told me its making 300hp with the paper weight heads on it. Just starting to think because I know I could buy that from my dad for $1000 bucks and its all reworked and like new internals.
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Old 09-24-2006, 05:12 PM   #15
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heres a question.

You see all my posts? you see how I change my mind every 5 seconds.

Your turning into me...

I think the one in your basement would be the best choice for you, not to expensive so you can work on apearence, enterior stereo, everything else a kid would want in his first car, a 300 hp motor is plenty for a noob driver.. if not spend 500 bucks get a nitrous kit, spray a 125 shot and ur happy although "you have to press a button"
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:08 PM   #16
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Later today I'll post the stats of my bro's old 383. 430hp 470lb-ft dyno proven. 9.7:1 pump premium.
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
heres a question.

You see all my posts? you see how I change my mind every 5 seconds.

Your turning into me...

I think the one in your basement would be the best choice for you, not to expensive so you can work on apearence, enterior stereo, everything else a kid would want in his first car, a 300 hp motor is plenty for a noob driver.. if not spend 500 bucks get a nitrous kit, spray a 125 shot and ur happy although "you have to press a button"
Stereo is check, appearance check, everything but rear and engine check . I think I may drop that 350 and when the time is right put new heads on it in the car.
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:31 PM   #18
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The page I put up when we were selling it is still up LOL, here you go:

http://www.csc.villanova.edu/~wthau/383.html

This is really just a rough estimate of what you can get on pump premium on a budget. I sold it for $3500 two years ago.
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:34 PM   #19
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btw...longblock is w/ heads, short block is just the block and rotating assembly
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