gear/stall

[WayFast84]

I want nothing more then a t56 trans in my car, but It just wont happen right now, I must go on in building my car, Now a 3000 stall was recomended with my aplication, but I cant spend 400+ on a stall..now their is a 2400 stall in my price range, but i would like to know how it would make my car act, would I just loose performance? or would it mess everything up? could I add or subtract gear to make up for the performance loss??

[johnjzjz]

I dont want ot sound like what ever -- but 3000 stall convertor will burn twice the fuel to go the same distance as a 2400 and it will use up 4 or 5 miles to a gallon over a >-- 1950 that is a good street stall with any gear combo 1700 / 1800 - is more than likely what you have stock -- a local convertor shop in jersey will charge you 75 / 125 depends -- and it wont eat all your money to drive it for a day at 3 bucks a gallon -- jz

[NJSPEEDER]

stall speed relates mostly to getting the car off the line in a stronger potion of the power band. by running a lower stall speed you won't do any damage to anything but you will notice a pretty big difference in performance. with the number of other pricey parts and work you need done you may be betyter served to wait and just keep an eye out for a good deal on a more appropriate stall speed. the less expensive models will always be there, so you have time to wait and plan to get the bigger one. if it doesn't come along, no loss to you.

you could run mor egear to try to offset the lack of stall speed, but then you will run into issues down track. you want your gear ratio chosen based on your trap speed. pick a gear taht allows the engine to rev through the entire power band a little before you go through the traps.
if you throw in a numerically higher gear to get the car out of the hole better, you may run past the best rpm range of the engine before the end of the track. if you only go a small step higher, you may be able to get away with it out of the hole, but it will effect down track performance.

[NJSPEEDER]

Originally Posted by johnjzjz

I dont want ot sound like what ever -- but 3000 stall convertor will burn twice the fuel to go the same distance as a 2400 and it will use up 4 or 5 miles to a gallon over a >-- 1950 that is a good street stall with any gear combo 1700 / 1800 - is more than likely what you have stock -- a local convertor shop in jersey will charge you 75 / 125 depends -- and it wont eat all your money to drive it for a day at 3 bucks a gallon -- jz

any stalled car i have ever driven only had moederate effects on mileage around town and no difference during highway/cruising speeds because you can retain the lock up feature. it will effect mileage a lot if the driver plays around and leaves every light hard, but under normal driving it should not be a dramatic difference.

[WayFast84]

then im just not gonna get a stall, ill just save the 400 bucks for a t56 swap.

does any one know the stock stall speed of a thirdgen?

[NJSPEEDER]

stock V8 stalls are in the 1300-1500 range in thridgens

[WayFast84]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

stock V8 stalls are in the 1300-1500 range in thridgens

its settled ill keep the stock tc, and the 700r4 till i blow it up wich will happen i hope

[NJSPEEDER]

i don't think it will be hard to blow up the stock rebuild once you get that 400 together.

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

any stalled car i have ever driven only had moederate effects on mileage around town and no difference during highway/cruising speeds because you can retain the lock up feature. it will effect mileage a lot if the driver plays around and leaves every light hard, but under normal driving it should not be a dramatic difference.

i was not thinking lock up -- but now that i am how does it survive the transision from clutch / clutch - Direct ( high speed ) and engage the lock in the convertor @ 3000 -- driveshaft speed has to match the convertor lock in RPM - OR it has to slam the stater support real hard -- or does a valve body get a mod thats nessessary so it will only go to lock up throttle off ?????/ - i am interested to know how it works -- the early 700 R$ trans was all the time stripping the snout gear off the pump ??? ( stator support ) 82 to maybe 86 -- i have done these but for the most part they are weak -- all pressed steel hubs ( sheet metal is a better word ) i dont get it but thats ok -- jz

[NJSPEEDER]

i am nto sure of the full workings internally. it is electrically controlled by teh ECM or you can get stand alone controller kits.
when the computer/controller senses steady vacuum and medium to low load it will engauge the lock up. it is not a 100% lock up like a clutch would have, more like 98.5-99.5% in the better ones.
there are trigger switches on the brakes and throttle to disengauge the lock up as well. the nice thing about using the lock up with a computer, especially in the later electronically shifted transmissions, is that the lock up can be programmed in and out almost at will. so if you wanna grab a little trap speed you can jsut program the TC to go to full lock at a certain wheel speed, it will increase the driveline efficiancy and can usually pop out about 2 more mph.
there is a trick in the thirdgens to lock the TC at the track. if you jump terminals a nd f i think it is, the TC will lock up as soon as the car shifts into second gear. it isn't a huge difference in a typical street motored car, maybe worth a tenth or two and a little trap speed.

[johnjzjz]

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

i am nto sure of the full workings internally. it is electrically controlled by teh ECM or you can get stand alone controller kits.
when the computer/controller senses steady vacuum and medium to low load it will engauge the lock up. it is not a 100% lock up like a clutch would have, more like 98.5-99.5% in the better ones.
there are trigger switches on the brakes and throttle to disengauge the lock up as well. the nice thing about using the lock up with a computer, especially in the later electronically shifted transmissions, is that the lock up can be programmed in and out almost at will. so if you wanna grab a little trap speed you can jsut program the TC to go to full lock at a certain wheel speed, it will increase the driveline efficiancy and can usually pop out about 2 more mph.
there is a trick in the thirdgens to lock the TC at the track. if you jump terminals a nd f i think it is, the TC will lock up as soon as the car shifts into second gear. it isn't a huge difference in a typical street motored car, maybe worth a tenth or two and a little trap speed.

i am a dynosaw hahahahah i had forgotten the plug and the wire hook up in side -- and its been a while since i have worked on a newer type trans like that -- and forgot comp controls TC lock and you are correct about second speed ingage -- its still a junk unit for real performance -- i do hear from the trans supplers we use 40-60E ( i think ) is the unit of choice for street guys with bot power and a lock up that works -- but i dont know that to be so -- thanks -- jz

[bad64chevelle]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

its settled ill keep the stock tc, and the 700r4 till i blow it up wich will happen i hope

only about 1,000 miles on the Chevelle and its eaten the transmission with a "B&M 2800 converter" which was literally nothing more than a stock converter...yeah I got screwed by who built my trans...but the trans has been gone for the past 500 miles if not more. Trust me...it wont take long at all.

[Batman]

i think a 400 will eat an 84 700-R4 pretty quickly. If you DO decide to get a converter try these guys. They have awesome customer service and very good prices and parts.They built my Transmission and I have 0 complaints about them. If you really want to do the T56 swap then just put that money in the bank. No point in building something you don't want.

http://www.phoenixtrans.com

[WayFast84]

i want the t56 for the fun of shifting gears, but would rather use my auto trans and just get it so i dont blow it up, and waste 1 grand that i never needed and was ripped off of