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As Bob stated.....if your block is a 1 piece rear main seal block, just buy the appropriate crankshaft. They are both very readily available and priced the same. Also don't bother trying to cut down a 400 crank instead of buying a new one. The pricing on a lot of the brand new quality cranks is similar to the machine work cost involved.
Be more weary of what length rod you're planning to use as well as the style. Different rods will require different clearancing inside the block in areas such as the bottoms of the cylinders and the oil pan rail. Depending on compression ratio and rod length you may also run into issues with the wrist pins being almost all the way up into the rings.
Do your research and talk to the knowledgable guys one here. I'm sure Josh at JSPerformance has plenty of input on the subject. He's probably put together 10x as many strokers as I have. Also check out TGO for more info....that's a wealth of information for thirdgenners.
Have you thought about what intake you'll be using? Staying with a MAF setup or converting to MAP? All important factors for picking the right parts and making them work together.
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--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
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