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03-31-2009, 06:32 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 814
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stupid brake question..
Its about that time and I have to do the brakes on my SS. I've been quite lucky and haven't had to do them since I owned the car. My question might sound like a no brainer but I'm going to do a full brake job including brand new rotors and all. I'm leaning towards a set of drilled and slotted rotors both for appearance and good stopping. Now my question is are the rotors you see on ebay any good? Everywhere I look they want like 450 at least for a decent looking set of these rotors for front and back, on ebay these ones are going for like 200. Usually you buy what you pay for quality wise but are these all that bad? Any advice would be greatly appreciated or maybe if anyone has tried these, are they any good? Thanks a lot
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Formerly known as njbadaSS
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03-31-2009, 06:38 PM
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#2
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,368
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from what i have understood, drilled/slotted rotors do nothing beneficial to your car.
i would buy locally because you could easily return the parts if your brakes pulsate or make noise or anything like that. i would stick to the premium pads and rotors. napa paints the rotor hat and outer edge to prevent rust buildup.
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03-31-2009, 06:45 PM
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#3
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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I wouldn't buy brake parts off of ebay, unless it's from an actual parts retailer like Summit, Jeg's, CPP, etc who is just clearing out inventory on there.
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03-31-2009, 08:17 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 113
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If your intention is to do this job once and have oem quality braking (or better) buy OEM style rotors and decent pads from a local suppler. If you have a question, they are likely to be able to offer advice. If you have a defect, they're local and accessible.
Skip the drilled and or slotted rotors, they are less efficient than OEM due to reduced rotor mass. Get good quality pads and be sure to properly bleed the brake system. Check the brake hoses while you're in there.
For a first timer, figure 4-5 hours. With practice you can do it in under 2 hours.
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03-31-2009, 09:08 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mays Landing, NJ
Posts: 7,108
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Stay away from actual OEM rotors, they blow. If you want good OEM replacement get stock replacement Brembo blanks. If you want slotted rotors NAPA has some decent ones, good warranty to IIRC.
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2018 Camaro 2SS Redline package, ESC Novi 1500 tuned by EFX, Might Mouse wild catch can, GM STB, smoked ZL1 3rd brake light, Xpel XR Black 35% tint all around, Street Scene front splitter, C7 Carbon ZL1 side skirts, Drake Muscle Car Wickerbill spoiler
2010 Infiniti G37x-Moonlight White w/Graphite interior. Stock...for now. Xpel XR Black tint(hey it's a mod lol)
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03-31-2009, 11:41 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 814
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I am definitely not a first timer, just wasn't sure about the quality of the ebay rotors. That was my main question not how to do the job or anything. I appreciate the advice guys
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Formerly known as njbadaSS
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04-01-2009, 12:00 AM
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#7
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,620
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No to ebays.
Check out the WS6store... last time I was on there the deal was decent.
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1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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04-01-2009, 08:27 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,530
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i got a set of drilled rotors from pepboys for $50 per rotor with a three year warranty about a year ago and they stop great with a set of hawk pads.
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04-01-2009, 03:32 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
from what i have understood, drilled/slotted rotors do nothing beneficial to your car.
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x2 and im pretty sure there is another thread dedicated to the ups and downs of blanks Vs drilled/slotted/both....
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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04-01-2009, 08:11 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: West Long Branch
Posts: 13,598
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Drilled/slotted are useless for daily driving. Some people want them, like them, whatever, but they arent going to do you any good on the street or even mild performance applications.
+1 to Hawk HPS pads. GET THE HPS, not HP Plus, or any other of the Hawks. HPS...that is all.
Regular rotors with HPS pads all around, break them in as directed on the box, and the car should stop much shorter then previous.
If you want to go an extra step, have the fluid switched out. Any auto repair place should be able to do that for a small fee. Therefor you will have good fluid, no air, and great pad/rotor combo.
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2/20/2013: They Day the ****s Stopped
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04-02-2009, 09:23 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,749
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also i hear that drilled/slotted are prone to cracking/splitting
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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04-03-2009, 12:53 AM
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#12
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
also i hear that drilled/slotted are prone to cracking/splitting
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if done wrong...
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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04-03-2009, 12:27 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
if done wrong...
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well if i could find it i have seen people on other forums post about there top of the line slotted rotors collecting dust and cracking apart....
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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04-26-2009, 08:54 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wahington Township
Posts: 113
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__________________
RIP 
2001 Camaro Z28
SLP Loudmouth 1 Series Catback
Sick Paint Job; Drilled/slotted rotors; Painted Calipers
Black TTM 2 17x9.5 2 17x10.5;2 275,40,17 ;2 315,35,17
Future Mods: SLP Cold Air Intake, Small shot of nitrous, headers, catted y, Stereo System(debatable)
Last edited by matt01Z28; 04-26-2009 at 08:59 PM.
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04-26-2009, 08:56 PM
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#15
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
well if i could find it i have seen people on other forums post about there top of the line slotted rotors collecting dust and cracking apart....
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Yep. Even some of the high dollar drilled rotors spiderweb.
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04-26-2009, 09:00 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wahington Township
Posts: 113
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And yes they stopped even with the tires on the rims!!!!
__________________
RIP
2001 Camaro Z28
SLP Loudmouth 1 Series Catback
Sick Paint Job; Drilled/slotted rotors; Painted Calipers
Black TTM 2 17x9.5 2 17x10.5;2 275,40,17 ;2 315,35,17
Future Mods: SLP Cold Air Intake, Small shot of nitrous, headers, catted y, Stereo System(debatable)
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05-05-2009, 10:29 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 1,099
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I had Baer cross drilled and slotted rotors on my Silverado SS. They had such a small improvement over stock that it isn't worth it. They look cool though. I only put them on since i was going to be trailering my goat to the track almost every weekend.
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-Devin
Whiplash Intense Performance
Intensify your ride with over 500 name brand Performance parts and accessories!
www.intensewhiplash.com
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05-05-2009, 10:38 PM
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#18
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
No to ebays.
Check out the WS6store... last time I was on there the deal was decent.
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+1 WS6store is awesome. I went with slotted rotorworks rotors and the hawk HP pads. Very happy with the price, turn around time, and results.
Like stated, drilled and slotted rotors will not benefit a street car, and drilled will lead to cracking. You will see the best performance with blanks. If you are looking for performance with some appearance, go slotted.
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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05-05-2009, 11:25 PM
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#19
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,165
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I agree on quality pads & quality blanks. Modern pads don't have outgassing issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Yep. Even some of the high dollar drilled rotors spiderweb.
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Absolutely, seen it many times. No need for drilled rotors.
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
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Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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05-05-2009, 11:58 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Delran
Posts: 6,785
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thunderracing has some good rotors
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05-06-2009, 02:24 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Piscataway
Posts: 189
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I have Brembo blanks and hawk HPS up front, both from tirerack, great combo
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1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - Stock...for now
Last edited by vipergtx500; 05-06-2009 at 02:24 AM.
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