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Old 05-29-2009, 09:18 PM   #1
emolineaux
 
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electric cutout

so whos got one and any idea how much to install one? just need the part welded i can run the wiring.
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:23 PM   #2
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like 500$ I guess
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:05 PM   #3
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cost $60 to weld the cutout and y pipe. I did the wiring myself. It's wired into the power seats and looks factory.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:17 AM   #4
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i have band clamps for mine
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:34 PM   #5
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mufflex in hamilton charges less than a 100 bucks an hour for work. awesome work too. highly recommended
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:48 PM   #6
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clamps on mine
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:17 PM   #7
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Any one running a manual one?
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:22 PM   #8
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i had a borla on my old 98 z which is basically a cutout style catback. had block off caps and sound reducers too....manual caps are probably a more durable way of going...having electrical motors in the exhaust doesnt sound like itll last too long (a few years?).
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:26 PM   #9
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Well I meant the cable operated ones.
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:30 PM   #10
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cables...caps...either way it sounds like it would be more durable....iirc some of the older muscle cars in the 60s and 70s had cable style cutouts from the factory
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:31 PM   #11
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Ive heard great things about dmh cutouts, and they come with a 4 year warranty.

http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:49 PM   #12
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they're really quite simple to make on your own, if you have the know how.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon View Post
cables...caps...either way it sounds like it would be more durable....iirc some of the older muscle cars in the 60s and 70s had cable style cutouts from the factory
I've never heard of any factory (GM/Ford/Chrysler) muscle car having cable operated exhaust cutouts. I've read the stories of headers in the trunk, nudge nudge wink wink, but not cable operated cutouts. I think you got some bad info there????

And I don't know how well a cable operated cutout would work anyway. It would have to be a pretty robust cable/jacket, sorta like an auto tranny shift cable. I doubt an old school "choke" cable would be strong enough to open an exhaust cut out especially once some corrosion starts building up on the cable.

Go electric or go with a simple 3-bolt block off plate.

Chris
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:56 PM   #14
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most of the electric ones that i have heard from people having froze, and they all wish they went with cable. but should not be expensive at all for an experienced welder
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:53 PM   #15
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i forget what car it was...im pretty sure it was a goat that offered a ''performance baffle'' system or something that was essentially a cutout that opened up for ''more sound and performance''......bah it was like 69-73 era
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Old 06-02-2009, 07:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon View Post
i had a borla on my old 98 z which is basically a cutout style catback. had block off caps and sound reducers too....manual caps are probably a more durable way of going...having electrical motors in the exhaust doesnt sound like itll last too long (a few years?).
yeah hi, starter? right next to the manifold? hottest place on the exhaust? derr? how long do motors normally last? go get some
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Old 06-02-2009, 07:59 AM   #17
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would i hear a differance with one welded in the main straight pipe on my lm2? i had one on my 93 but i had stock exhaust on that.
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
yeah hi, starter? right next to the manifold? hottest place on the exhaust? derr? how long do motors normally last? go get some




yeah hi ive known 3 people to have problems with the electric motors burning out
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:37 PM   #19
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:51 PM   #20
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yeah hi ive known 3 people to have problems with the electric motors burning out
okkkkk. point? things on cars break. duh.
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
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yeah hi ive known 3 people to have problems with the electric motors burning out

so change them, they are like $5
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:19 AM   #22
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I have an electric one and it's wired with my parking lights (through the console). I had the mufflex hooker SC style y-pipe so it was all band clamped together. I had the local meineke weld it all up and the cutout $100.

Don't waste your time with the cable cutout, a friend of mine had one on his car and it was a PITA to open and close to begin with. Then over time with moisture etc getting in the sheething it rusted together.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:30 AM   #23
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Those are crappy.

1.) The cable breaks over time
2.) They rust shut
3.) They are only offered in like 2-2.25" sizes
4.) If I remember correctly, they are cast iron which can make welding them in a pita. I think they recommend brazing them in
5.) In my opinion, they are in Mr. Gasket's "****" line of products- where the 8 ball shift knob, footprint gas pedal, "universal" slapper bars, etc. are. Basically they are "kinda" cool in concept only since their execution is poor.

I don't know of any company offering a factory cutout. GM had enough of an issue with the chambered exhaust stystem.

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Old 06-08-2009, 11:31 AM   #24
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Don't vettes come with em?

And yea, found that out, 2.5 pft, who wants that... lol
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Don't vettes come with em?

And yea, found that out, 2.5 pft, who wants that... lol
I don't think it's a cutout but it is an exhaust valve. THOSE have been around for a while.
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