oil in a rebuilt

[woodchip525]

just got the rebuilt motor back in thr 84. someone told me if i use anything lower than 10 40 wt oil, i should put an additive in cause the lower oils dont protect like 10 40. any thoughts? thanks

[WildBillyT]

What? That makes little sense.

Flat tappet cam or roller? If it's a flat tappet you need to run either Valvoline VR1, Joe Gibbs (or some other specifically made flat tappet oil) or you MUST run an additive. Off the shelf oil from an auto store will not cut it.

[sweetbmxrider]

run what the machine shop recommends. they set the bearing clearances. also what bill said.

[Pampered-Z]

I've always used 10-30W with an additive. I perfer the GM new assembly lube. Initial run of the engine for 15-20 minutes varing the RPMs from 1,000 to 1,700 for a roller cam, 1,500 for flat tappet. After cool down, change oil/filter and refill same weight and another can of the breakin lube and change at 200-250 miles. Changing the oil after 15 minutes is key, the heavy assembly lubes, such as molycoat, can actually clog the filter over time so you want to drain that out.

GM PART # 88862586

[T69SS]

Right now im running 10 - 40 with Redline Break in additive for the zinc and phosphorous. Flat Tappet cam

[S.J.SLEEPER]

royal purple breakin oil ftw

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER

royal purple breakin oil ftw

Comp's worked well for me as well.

[mandinggo01]

i always use rotell T 15w40

[WildBillyT]

Rotella T does not have the right additive package for a flat tappet anymore. It used to.

[T69SS]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

Rotella T does not have the right additive package for a flat tappet anymore. It used to.

Would Shell Rotella T work with an additive such as Royal Purple/ Comp??

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by T69SS

Would Shell Rotella T work with an additive such as Royal Purple/ Comp??

Probably. May be better to just run the right oil from the start. Valvoline VR1 is good and has what we need in it.

[T69SS]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

Probably. May be better to just run the right oil from the start. Valvoline VR1 is good and has what we need in it.

Thanks i will definitely look into that Valvoline. I had the hardest time at first trying to figure out the right stuff to run im my car. I planned on switching to a different oil once spring came around and i think it will be the Valvoline

Edit: Looks like good stuff. What weight do you run?

[WildBillyT]

Right now, 10w30.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Valvoline-Raci...61749/10002/-1

[T69SS]

Awesome, thanks! Im assuming with this it isnt necessary to run an additive as well?

[WildBillyT]

No additive from what I've heard:

Just spoke to Valvoline.... the new VR1 10W30 synthetic is fully fortified ZDDP product. 1400ppm of zinc minimum there is also a 20w50 for all you heavy weight guys with the same ZDDP package....

the New VR1 Synthetics are the same fortification as the regular VR1 oils.. Meaning all the detergents and a 3000 mile change interval for normal every day driving.....

there is one more oil that Valvoline is selling but is in the NSL line up... a 10w60 full synthetic.. but its a 500 mile max oil...


so there ya go you synthetics lovers... Valvoline has provided ya with 2 grades of synthetics that should cover 99% of your needs....

By the way this is a group 3 based synthetic....

[T69SS]

Sweet, i will definitely run the VR1 when i change the oil again. Thanks for the help

[WildBillyT]

No problemo. And remember, (if you are a 4-spd) synthetic in your Muncie can be a no-no as well.

[T69SS]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

No problemo. And remember, (if you are a 4-spd) synthetic in your Muncie can be a no-no as well.

I am a four speed actually, and this is going to sound bad, but i havent drained the fluid in it yet because ( just like the oil) i want to run the right stuff. I did read a little about synthetic, but never really was able to find a cut and dry answer

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by T69SS

I am a four speed actually, and this is going to sound bad, but i havent drained the fluid in it yet because ( just like the oil) i want to run the right stuff. I did read a little about synthetic, but never really was able to find a cut and dry answer

Bob Hanlon may chime in otherwise (and please do if you are out there, Bob!), but I heard from a few Muncie builders that synthetic gear lubes will leak out of the front bearing retainer, and mine pisses expensive Redline on the shop floor...

[T69SS]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

Bob Hanlon may chime in otherwise (and please do if you are out there, Bob!), but I heard from a few Muncie builders that synthetic gear lubes will leak out of the front bearing retainer, and mine pisses expensive Redline on the shop floor...

That alone will probably keep me away from full synthetic

[Blacdout96]

When I finish my 3.8, how should i break that in, it has roller cam in it, and a cat, so i can't run a zinc add. in it.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by Blacdout96

When I finish my 3.8, how should i break that in, it has roller cam in it, and a cat, so i can't run a zinc add. in it.

New cam or completely fresh build?

The cool thing about rollers is you don't have to do any of the flat tappet BS like the half hour run-in or ZZDP in your oil.

[Blacdout96]

Everything will be brand spanking new.

Abbot cam -210/220 @ .050
-.320" lobe lift on the intake, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio
-.320 lobe lift on the exhaust, .512 with a 1.6 rocker ratio
-112 lobe separation