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05-28-2010, 02:27 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Milford/Villanova
Posts: 1,044
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Pics of Driveway...Through the Floorboards.
You might say there's a small rust problem on the car.
Luckily, its mostly confined to the front driver side.
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1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI,- Off the road, awaiting rebuild
2004 GMC Sierra- Current Daily Driver.
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05-28-2010, 03:06 PM
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#2
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Power Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milford NJ
Posts: 1,526
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wow
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05-28-2010, 03:09 PM
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#3
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8 Second Club
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,315
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you have them fred flinstone brakes?
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05-28-2010, 03:30 PM
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#4
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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even before this point, I would have parted the car out and gotten another one
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2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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05-28-2010, 03:53 PM
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#5
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12 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oradell
Posts: 8,370
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wow thats impressive!
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88 Camaro
95 Impala SS
97 Trans Am WS6
98 Blazer ZR2
00 Corvette
04 CTS-V
04 Grand Cherokee
07 Sublime Charger Daytona
09 Grand Cherokee Limited HEMI
12 Tahoe LT
17 Malibu LT
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05-28-2010, 05:26 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sayreville, NJ
Posts: 801
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Honestly is it even worth it to try and fix this one, I'm sure you can find another 3rd gen fro around or under $1000 in much better shape.
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05-28-2010, 06:35 PM
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#7
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Power Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milford NJ
Posts: 1,526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamhainZ28
Honestly is it even worth it to try and fix this one, I'm sure you can find another 3rd gen fro around or under $1000 in much better shape.
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good luck
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05-28-2010, 08:37 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Milford/Villanova
Posts: 1,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamhainZ28
Honestly is it even worth it to try and fix this one, I'm sure you can find another 3rd gen fro around or under $1000 in much better shape.
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I bought this car over 3 years ago when I was 17. Cost me a grand total of $300. Drove it till about a year and a half ago.
Its always been a bit of a learning car. Whenever something broke, or needed replacing, I did it myself and learned from what worked and what didn't.
While, I admit, I should junk it and find something else, I want to learn how to do floorboards properly. I'm going to try and fix it, make my own floors for it. Hell, I know I can't make it any worse than it already is.
__________________
1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI,- Off the road, awaiting rebuild
2004 GMC Sierra- Current Daily Driver.
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05-28-2010, 08:59 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: bridgewater
Posts: 868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdacda13
I'm going to try and fix it, make my own floors for it.
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can you even safely do that with a unibody car?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28
its an ongoing joke between the Geo Storm crew and the Sebring coupe team.
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bolt-ons and a bed n' breakfast
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05-28-2010, 09:03 PM
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#10
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ib4200
can you even safely do that with a unibody car?
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why not?
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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05-28-2010, 09:15 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\
good luck
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I got my car for less than 1000. Didn't have to do much work to it either, and it was one of the cleanest 3rd gens I've ever seen. There around, you just have to look.
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05-28-2010, 10:27 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Shamong, NJ
Posts: 1,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdacda13
I bought this car over 3 years ago when I was 17.
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Even 3 years ago those floorboards had to be pretty bad...
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1969 Camaro SS - 350 w/ some work done.
2010 F-150
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05-28-2010, 10:51 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Milford/Villanova
Posts: 1,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T69SS
Even 3 years ago those floorboards had to be pretty bad...
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That is correct, unfortunately I didn't know the extent of that. I replaced the carpet when I first bought, but most of it was covered by the padding by the firewall. The biggest hole, the one on the left, was a tiny scar, maybe 2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide. I wire wheeled and sanded the area then painted it.
I never noticed that the seam was busted on the front driver side wheel well. Water was kicked back from the tire, into the busted seam. From there, it was soaked into the padding by the firewall, with was cover by rubber padding. From there, it sat with no where to go, rusted out the area by the firewall and spread.
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1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI,- Off the road, awaiting rebuild
2004 GMC Sierra- Current Daily Driver.
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05-29-2010, 10:22 AM
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#14
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Power Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milford NJ
Posts: 1,526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdacda13
That is correct, unfortunately I didn't know the extent of that. I replaced the carpet when I first bought, but most of it was covered by the padding by the firewall. The biggest hole, the one on the left, was a tiny scar, maybe 2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide. I wire wheeled and sanded the area then painted it.
I never noticed that the seam was busted on the front driver side wheel well. Water was kicked back from the tire, into the busted seam. From there, it was soaked into the padding by the firewall, with was cover by rubber padding. From there, it sat with no where to go, rusted out the area by the firewall and spread.
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if its just the driverside thats shot, its fixable, will take some time and some good fab/welding skills, but its doable.
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05-29-2010, 03:33 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,677
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Throw a new carpet in and call it a day.
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John
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05-29-2010, 04:03 PM
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#16
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,476
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Ouch.....I thought the floor in my Jeep was bad, but yours is way worse. Post up pics when you do the repair.
- Justin
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1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-30-2010, 12:31 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: In a van down by the river.
Posts: 1,040
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Oh jeez i wonder how mine looks  My T'tops leak all the time and the hatch. God i hope its not that much money to fix.
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05-30-2010, 01:10 PM
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#18
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Power Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milford NJ
Posts: 1,526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92camarodude
Oh jeez i wonder how mine looks  My T'tops leak all the time and the hatch. God i hope its not that much money to fix.
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the t-tops on my 86 have always leaked, for years, even before i've owned it. No rust on the floor at all. i guess its hit or miss
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05-30-2010, 01:12 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: In a van down by the river.
Posts: 1,040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\
the t-tops on my 86 have always leaked, for years, even before i've owned it. No rust on the floor at all. i guess its hit or miss
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Yea i hope its not that bad. Well what ever's rust is there i gotta fix it. Its worth fixing.....
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05-31-2010, 11:21 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 929
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i dont see any problems with your floors?
lol good luck ! i got my car for free my drivers floor was just as bad. my friend and i cut out the old and welded in the new and its good as new. eventually these cars will be collectables and you will be happy you saved yours.
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1986 IROC-Z - 305- .030 over, Voodoo cam, 113 vette heads, tpi, hedman torque steps, GMMG 3in catback, custom chip, t56, 3.27s 9 bolt, rest of the car is stock.
2011 Camaro - 2lt/rs red jewel tincoat, m6 - SOLD
2014 Camaro SS - bolt ons
1998 Jimmy - the beater
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06-01-2010, 03:59 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Point Pleasant
Posts: 1,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\;706989\
just takes some good fab/welding skills\
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Lollers @ floorpans taking good fab skills.
Lay in, mark, cut, tack, tack ,tack, tack, tack, etc. Gotta be the easiest most beginner thing for someone new to metal to do on a car. Go for it man.
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-Vinnie
94 2wd SBSC Gmt400. 330CI LSX, Fast 102, Trickflow 205s, close ratio nv3500, 4.30/trutrac.
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06-01-2010, 04:14 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\
will take some time and some good fab/welding skills
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You're right Phil, to do it the right way, it takes skills or, you could do a hack job as outlined below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Lollers @ floorpans taking good fab skills.
Lay in, mark, cut, tack, tack ,tack, tack, tack, etc. Gotta be the easiest most beginner thing for someone new to metal to do on a car. Go for it man.
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John
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06-02-2010, 09:08 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Point Pleasant
Posts: 1,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherburner
You're right Phil, to do it the right way, it takes skills or, you could do a hack job as outlined below.
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Hmmm alright then what exactly is the right way that takes so much fab skill?
Floor pans is like the job for a crash course in beginning to weld in an automotive application. You dont have to run a pretty bead on anything because it will warp and burn through. Nothing is crucially structural to the weight or driving force of the vehicle. And even the tacks dont even have to look pretty seeing as how it gets carpet over it...
Its not like we're talking about reskinning a quarter here...
4 Linking a car is a difficult job that requires a lot of fab skill. Saying pans takes a lot of fab skill sounds like an excuse for people that are either afraid to tackle a job that requires cutting and welding, or simply just that bad at fab. Any joe schmoe with a $100 harbor freight flux core wire feed welder some confidence and forethought can do floor pans.
__________________
-Vinnie
94 2wd SBSC Gmt400. 330CI LSX, Fast 102, Trickflow 205s, close ratio nv3500, 4.30/trutrac.
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06-02-2010, 09:25 AM
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#24
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Hmmm alright then what exactly is the right way that takes so much fab skill?
Floor pans is like the job for a crash course in beginning to weld in an automotive application. You dont have to run a pretty bead on anything because it will warp and burn through. Nothing is crucially structural to the weight or driving force of the vehicle. And even the tacks dont even have to look pretty seeing as how it gets carpet over it...
Its not like we're talking about reskinning a quarter here...
4 Linking a car is a difficult job that requires a lot of fab skill. Saying pans takes a lot of fab skill sounds like an excuse for people that are either afraid to tackle a job that requires cutting and welding, or simply just that bad at fab. Any joe schmoe with a $100 harbor freight flux core wire feed welder some confidence and forethought can do floor pans.
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To do a good job with floor pans you do have to have some skill. You can certainly do a half-ass job and get OK results which will not be seen, but to do a good job you need to take your time and have some skill. Hell, you can "do" floor pans without a welder! But that doesn't make it right. Some points of note:
1.) You have to clean up what's there and get back to good solid metal, otherwise you get blow-through. In some cases you CAN'T get back to good solid metal so you will have to know how to adjust voltage and feed speed to attach the new solid stuff to the old, thin metal. This will make a novice job more of an intermediate one.
2.) In a unibody car, the floor is structural. Yes, the rockers take most of the weight but the floor is used for support.
3.) The replacement pans don't always "lay in there". Every time I've done floor pans I've had to heat and form them a bit to get good fitment.
4.) I've never tack welded floor pans as a method of installation. I've tacked them in place but I've always used plug welds for final installation.
5.) This isn't a floor pan repair. He needs to repair the inner rocker as well. Not very difficult per se but will make the fitment of the final pans harder to do, and it's now partially a structural repair. He won't have anything to weld that part of the floor to as well. This makes it a more advanced job. Can still be done at home, but not a "drop and weld"- that's an oversimplification.
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06-02-2010, 10:53 AM
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#25
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Point Pleasant
Posts: 1,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
To do a good job with floor pans you do have to have some skill. You can certainly do a half-ass job and get OK results which will not be seen, but to do a good job you need to take your time and have some skill. Hell, you can "do" floor pans without a welder! But that doesn't make it right. Some points of note:
1.) You have to clean up what's there and get back to good solid metal, otherwise you get blow-through. In some cases you CAN'T get back to good solid metal so you will have to know how to adjust voltage and feed speed to attach the new solid stuff to the old, thin metal. This will make a novice job more of an intermediate one.
2.) In a unibody car, the floor is structural. Yes, the rockers take most of the weight but the floor is used for support.
3.) The replacement pans don't always "lay in there". Every time I've done floor pans I've had to heat and form them a bit to get good fitment.
4.) I've never tack welded floor pans as a method of installation. I've tacked them in place but I've always used plug welds for final installation.
5.) This isn't a floor pan repair. He needs to repair the inner rocker as well. Not very difficult per se but will make the fitment of the final pans harder to do, and it's now partially a structural repair. He won't have anything to weld that part of the floor to as well. This makes it a more advanced job. Can still be done at home, but not a "drop and weld"- that's an oversimplification.
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Fair enough. I was absolutely agree that it being a unibody and having rot creeping up the usually solid areas you would make a new to old patch at does make the job more difficult.
My point is that in comparison to other automotive jobs necessitating fab and welding, floor pans are pretty much a cake walk. And they are by far not an "expert" job. Thats all I'm saying.
And yes I've never done pans using plug welds (I, as well as others refer to them as roset welds so you through me for a loop for a second there) but it would definitely be more structural and easier to weld.
As far as dropping pans in, marking, cutting, and welding that really all depends on the quality of pan you buy so your right you may have fitment issues.
__________________
-Vinnie
94 2wd SBSC Gmt400. 330CI LSX, Fast 102, Trickflow 205s, close ratio nv3500, 4.30/trutrac.
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