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Old 09-19-2010, 04:29 PM   #1
redsoxsstink
 
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exterior trim removal.

i have trim thats faded, i want to remove it and re-finish and paint it. im not sure how to i dont want to cause more damage here are some pictures



that whit line is just some missed wax that ran with the ran the other day, i havent had a chance to clean it up. the part i want t redo is the white line in the middle
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:40 PM   #2
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I would just mask it off on the car if I were you instead of risking damage removing it. If you do take it off it should just be held on with adhesive...you can try heating it with a heat gun but don't melt the plastic.
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:15 PM   #3
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You could also just !molding all together - the 4thgens look sharp with no side moldings.
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPI Monte SS View Post
You could also just !molding all together - the 4thgens look sharp with no side moldings.
they serve a useful purpose on a DD though.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:51 PM   #5
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And what is that purpose? They're not ding guards because they're not on the furthest-poking out section of the door. I agree with TPI, !moldings. Get rid of them. It makes the car look much cleaner.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:17 PM   #6
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And what is that purpose? They're not ding guards because they're not on the furthest-poking out section of the door.
Oh, thought they were. they are on 3rd gens. then be gone with them!
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:35 PM   #7
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they have protected my door a few times, i can see it.

and be carefull i had a buddy who took his off awhile back and ripped a 1" tall by 3" long chip of paint off.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:36 PM   #8
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i was thinking abt removing them, thats why i asked befor i take it in, if i like it without i wont redo em, if i dont i redo them

so heat gun it? ive heard using fishing line, and like sawing? (lack of better term) i know people do it to debadge their cars but often it isnt painted underneath and i dont want to risk screwing up the paint
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2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit
daily econobox and first car

1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD

1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121

03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:45 PM   #9
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can removed side molding get me chicks like thiss?
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2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit
daily econobox and first car

1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD

1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121

03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:20 PM   #10
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^dayum lol I gotta find those type of chicks to pose with my car

I sprayed some wd-40 along the top edge of the moldings. Let it sit for 15-20 mins. Then I used a plastic putty knife to separate the molding from the door. I didn't have a heat gun and a hairdryer was taking too long. Finally, I used Goo Gone to get rid of any leftover adhesive.
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:07 PM   #11
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heat gun and some fishing line. Work it back and forth behind the molding like a saw. some heat is built up but spray some "goo gone" on it while u work to kill and heat. Also wipe off any extra adhesive with the goo gone whe the molding comes off.
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:00 AM   #12
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plus door ding are an issue mainly on metal doors...
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:13 AM   #13
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I had mine sit in the sun then just pulled it off by hand. I think I got lucky though, most of the adhesive came right off with the side molding. If it doesnt go easy use a heat gun/hair dryer like said. A putty knife would probably work wonders or a cheap plastic knife without the serrated edge.
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:40 PM   #14
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remove!
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