1994 Z28 (Track Project) - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

zraffz · 02-07-2012, 08:24 PM

I blame Jim (Lt1_8U) for everything I'm about to mention. What was originally going to be a cammed 355 with a 100 shot became plans for a track car with a bit of street time. The budget also went up about tenfold

As it sits I rather have invested or set aside money for the motor build, ignition, fuel and rear... still got to save up for trans/converter/suspension/nitrous/safety equipment. I figure I'm about 1/3 of the way there though.

I'll be talking to the local trans guy tomorrow to see where he gets his machine work done. I shot myself in the foot with my motor build - planned on running the stock crank and changed my mind after I had bought my pistons and rods. Should have built a dang stroker.

Basic Motor:
357CI, Trick Flow 185cc 21* heads, LE 236/244 .608"/.608" 110 LSA, Probe SRS -4cc flycut N2O pistons, Callies Compstar 5.7" h-beam rods, Eagle 3.48" forged crank, JE HNS rings (compatible to hellfire). Nitrous Outlet direct port (around 250 shot).

Way more parts downstairs and in my room but don't have any pictures.

Plan on running a 4L60E w/ trans brake, Yank 3600 converter, S60 rear and Spohn + BMR suspension. I'd be ecstatic with 9's but I guess I'll have to wait and see.

Lt1_8U · 02-07-2012, 08:56 PM

You will thank me when you start it up the first time!! Haha

zraffz · 02-10-2012, 05:01 PM

I hope so lol!
Ordered Howards Cams steel billet main caps (center 3), ARP main studs, ARP head studs and woodruff keys for the crank flange. Should be here sometime mid next week and than it's off to the machine shop. Starting to get excited as hell haha.

NJ Torque · 02-10-2012, 05:48 PM

4L60 with a brake...prepare to break it all the time.

NjbadSS · 02-10-2012, 07:42 PM

^^captain obvious!

dugeman · 02-10-2012, 08:16 PM

If it is a track only car , you might want to look into a different trans . to use with a trans - brake .

coolmanvette75 · 02-10-2012, 09:14 PM

Get a th350/400. Stronger and cheaper. LS1ow has the crossmember for it and will sell it to you at a really good price...

racerz · 02-12-2012, 07:26 PM

turbo 350...had one built for my "stocker", with 8inch converter, and manual reverse pattern valve body. totally makes car feel solid. as far as the crossmember...u can fabricate the stock crssmember to work...the mount has to only b moved 1 1/2 inches forward...I used 1/4 thick steel stock and welded it up and works fine...help keep it on the cheap!

zraffz · 02-12-2012, 09:29 PM

Looking at a TH400 sometime this week. Figure in a $400 trans brake/valve body and $120 sprag setup?

New goodies came in (billet steel center 3 caps):

Waiting for my head studs, main studs, and woodruff keys... in the meantime I think I'm going to buy my trans.

zraffz · 02-26-2012, 01:40 AM

Changed the build a little. No longer running HNS rings. Lowering it to a 150 shot through a plate. Looking for mid 10's in almost a fully dressed car. Bunch of new goodies came in! Half my parts now qualify for overkill and made my build go up at least 2 grand extra (forged crank, billet main caps, studs, TH400, h-beam rods, extra machining) but I suppose they are added security lol. Sucker better make it another 50,000 miles on this build without any serious issues!

34 element sprag:

t-brake:

Guide Plates:

Head & Main studs:

Cam retainer/dog bones/spider:

LS7 Lifters:

Pro Magnum 1.6s:

Decided on a TH400. Picked up a short tail off S.J. Sleeper last week. Tag was painted, hadn't the slightest clue what year it was. Banked on it being an early style trans but it wasn't. Appeared to be in pretty descent condition but it didn't matter much. Getting a race overhaul kit, filter, early style direct drum.

Got my intake manifold on the way too. 58mm openings, ported runners, gasket matched, plenum porting.

Lt1_8U · 02-28-2012, 10:19 PM

llooks good, when do u plan on having the motor together?

zraffz · 02-28-2012, 10:38 PM

No idea... it just keeps getting more and more money tossed at it with no end in sight haha.

I got distracted half way through oiling the heads before storing them, forgot to go back and finish one head. Had two seats develop light surface rust (lapping them might fix it, however it's my own stupidity and either way it's a cheap fix).

I've just reached the $6,000 mark between motor and trans in the past 3 months. I'm expecting another 2 grand in machine work. Still need to order my cam, gaskets, bearings, injectors, throttle body, headers/y-pipe, ignition box, fuel pump and torque converter for approximately 3 grand. Then I have to worry about a drive shaft, suspension, rear, tires and n2o.

From here on out I am only setting aside $250 a week towards the project so I know it won't be done for a while. I'm banking on getting some of the smaller parts for my birthday in July. If it goes right I'll be breaking the motor in by August (no suspension/rear yet).

I don't think I'm going to be able to even make motor passes this year at the track. Feel like I really went overkill on the price to build a ten second car... quiet a few things I should have changed/done differently but it's too late now and as long as I reach my goal I'll be happy. No plans for a cage until Island stops letting me run when I show up.

dugeman · 02-29-2012, 06:40 AM

It's so much easier to install a cage when the car is down and apart , then to do it after it is all together . Wolf make a pre-notched 4th gen. cage for ease of installation . Don't think of going fast. Think of going fast SAFE !

zraffz · 02-29-2012, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dugeman

It's so much easier to install a cage when the car is down and apart , then to do it after it is all together . Wolf make a pre-notched 4th gen. cage for ease of installation . Don't think of going fast. Think of going fast SAFE !

Not following the difference between caging it with or without a drive train other than throwing me further into Fall before I can drive it.