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05-05-2020, 01:25 PM
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#1
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,941
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Engine Cooling
Trying to envision in my head how I could run two pumps in parallel while maintaining one of them as the factory housing.
My thought was to Y out of the rad and form two hoses in place of the #1 hose. Then one goes to factory pump and another hits a remote pump which then feeds factory pump.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Last edited by LTb1ow; 05-05-2020 at 01:53 PM.
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05-05-2020, 01:46 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,752
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Your picture link is dead
IIRC BMW has a PWM remote pump they use. Guys use it for engine and W2A intercooler cooling.
What is your Antifreeze to coolant ratio? Higher the water content = better thermal transfer
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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05-05-2020, 01:53 PM
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#3
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,941
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Fixed link, I hope.
And as far as coolant ratio levels, not a clue. Will be draining/flushing and refilling with distilled/water wetter soon though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-05-2020, 02:02 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,752
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https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...3/#post5470703
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...3/#post5470705
Peep those links.
I wouldn't do water wetter, IMO its a bandaid.
I'd do 75% water and 25% coolant. That should be good to 10* F.
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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05-05-2020, 03:19 PM
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#5
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Arent you on the stock radiator? Why not upgrade that
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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05-05-2020, 03:26 PM
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#6
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
Arent you on the stock radiator? Why not upgrade that
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Won't help highway speed stuff. Just take longer to get hot.
Was thinking if I bump mass flow through motor/rad I will hopefully get more cooling.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-05-2020, 04:36 PM
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#7
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,370
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This sounds like it won’t work nor solve the problem
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05-05-2020, 07:09 PM
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#8
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,083
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I almost want to say that I've heard in the past that too high of a coolant flow rate isnt good either because then there's less time to absorb and give off heat. You'd almost have to see what the optimum flow rate is and then maybe use a stand alone electric pump and fully gut/port the stock housing.
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05-06-2020, 03:26 PM
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#9
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
Arent you on the stock radiator? Why not upgrade that
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this
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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05-06-2020, 05:08 PM
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#10
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,941
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Again, more cooling capacity without increasing surface area will only slow the increase and then hit the same temps.
Not sure how much more surface area I could squeeze in the car, perhaps a very thick core?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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05-06-2020, 06:56 PM
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#11
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,170
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Stielow does it in his cars with more hp and ac with stock gm water pumps. Big radiator and intercooler.
I would at least start there before i reinvented the wheel
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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05-06-2020, 07:08 PM
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#12
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,370
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Is 200* hot?
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05-06-2020, 07:14 PM
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#13
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,170
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Not really, less than factory right?
Does anyone make an improved lt1 water pump?
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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05-06-2020, 07:54 PM
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#14
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10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,141
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matt, I know you don't have a Datsun, or a LS3, and don't live in Arizona, but I remember quickly skim-reading this article in last month's Hot Rod magazine. . I know that you know your stuff mechanically. A few months ago I dove into the cooling system portion of my project and I am fortunate that my very simple setup seems to work for me. but for your boosted setup its more complicated and different. It might not gain you any knowledge, but I thought it might be worth a read
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/stop...0hp-ls-engine/
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1987 IROC-Z - modified
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05-07-2020, 09:08 AM
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#15
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
Is 200* hot?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
Not really, less than factory right?
Does anyone make an improved lt1 water pump?
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It makes me concerned, but in theory its no hotter than factory LTX/LSX run on highway. I know I have a lot stacked in front of radiator but not used to engine running this hot is primarily what concerns me. I have the "best" electric water pump, but its no match for the factory setup at highway speeds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15
matt, I know you don't have a Datsun, or a LS3, and don't live in Arizona, but I remember quickly skim-reading this article in last month's Hot Rod magazine. . I know that you know your stuff mechanically. A few months ago I dove into the cooling system portion of my project and I am fortunate that my very simple setup seems to work for me. but for your boosted setup its more complicated and different. It might not gain you any knowledge, but I thought it might be worth a read
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/stop...0hp-ls-engine/ |
Interesting article, reverse of my condition. At idle or when fans are on, my setup will cool right down to thermostat, 180-190* And I have lousy derale pusher fans 
From what I can find so far, I need ~767ci of radiator volume, and that is fairly close to what OEM is. If we assume OEM is overall 31x19x1.375, that gets 809ci of volume, so on paper factory radiator is sufficient. Which means I have the harder path of finding how to prioritize air flow thru radiator.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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