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Old 09-26-2006, 09:06 PM   #1
WayFast84
 
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Need some help..

with my cam install, shouldnt take more then an hour outa your time..I need help putting valve springs in, I have no tools. cant afford new heads..
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:43 PM   #2
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Less $$ on parts, more $$ on tools....

Here, I got this for the trunk of the Camaros.



Good little first set. Just add some real wrenches and some others.
169 pc., $60 at Sam's Club
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:23 PM   #3
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I know I do, I need an air compressor though..
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:05 PM   #4
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Your need for air tools isn't that high. Hand tools are more important.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
Your need for air tools isn't that high. Hand tools are more important.
to do springs...thats what I was told
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
to do springs...thats what I was told
If you are doing this with the heads on the car, then yes, it is useful to use pressurized air to hold the valves up. If the heads are off of the car, then you do not need air.

I didn't want to say this in your post in the classifieds, but it is absolutely ridiculous to buy a new set of heads because you can't change springs.

I (and I am sure I'm not alone here) strongly recommend that you quit spending money on parts and start developing a good project plan alongside cultivating your automotive know-how. Otherwise you WILL piss your money away on nonessential and poorly matched parts and you WON'T drive the thing around in the near future. You have probably heard this before- many of us speak from experience.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:41 PM   #7
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I know it is, I wasnt thinking and I just wanted it done fast.. Im not gonna get them, and Instead Im going to take the heads off and bring them to the machine shop to be cleaned, have everything installed, new valves and valve seals.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:12 PM   #8
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The cost of rebuilding those heads is a waste of $$ too.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
The cost of rebuilding those heads is a waste of $$ too.
I agree.

Matt, in all seriousness, why are you building up the 305?
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
I agree.

Matt, in all seriousness, why are you building up the 305?
Im not really building it up, Im just make it fast enough for me.

the only reason why Id be getting the heads done is because I know i cant do it myself, and I need it done. valves why not? and valve seals, yeah I need them
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:30 PM   #11
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Leave the heads on.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:36 PM   #12
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Ok. But you do know that you can go faster for less money if you start out with a good core. In this case, a 4" bore short block (as in 327/350 etc). They are always around and can be had cheap. You can probably even buy a recently rebuilt 350 from your local machine shop for not too much money. Then you can just drop it in and go.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:39 PM   #13
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i have 700.. and I couldnt install it my self. I dont have a crane or anything.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:41 PM   #14
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Well, just for reference- I sold a strong running 4 barrel 350 (with 10k miles on it) for $300 two years ago. Complete from carb to oil pan.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Well, just for reference- I sold a strong running 4 barrel 350 (with 10k miles on it) for $300 two years ago. Complete from carb to oil pan.
what should I do with the cam I bought then?
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:53 PM   #16
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Put the freaking thing in your engine, button it up & start it.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:57 PM   #17
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ok but then I need to do springs! and we get into that problem
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:59 PM   #18
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Are the headers on the car or no? Headers get in the way of the air hose.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:02 PM   #19
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headers are off. I dont have an air compressor...

edit
MIGHT be getting a compressor
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Last edited by WayFast84; 09-27-2006 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:15 PM   #20
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Heres my vote. Stock vortecs... $200, 40hp. Just gonna be a pain if your FI.

If I were to build a v8 for the street and never run it at the track never be concerned with 1/4mile times ect I would go:

305
vortecs
between a mild and hot cam
500cfm carb
good flowing exhaust
3.23 posi in the rear.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
what should I do with the cam I bought then?
Well, you are stuck if it can't be returned. In which case I'd follow Bonzo's advice and button it up. Don't go for new heads.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:25 PM   #22
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Heres my vote. Stock vortecs... $200, 40hp. Just gonna be a pain if your FI.

If I were to build a v8 for the street and never run it at the track never be concerned with 1/4mile times ect I would go:

305
vortecs
between a mild and hot cam
500cfm carb
good flowing exhaust
3.23 posi in the rear.
shuddup not doing that
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Well, you are stuck if it can't be returned. In which case I'd follow Bonzo's advice and button it up. Don't go for new heads.
whats the tool cost to keep the valve up? then whats the process?
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
shuddup not doing that
Do it anyway you could probably do that for under a grand if you get everything but the cam used.

$200 for the rear.
$300 for heads.
$150 for cam.
$100 for carb.
$250 to rig an exhaust.
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Old 09-28-2006, 06:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0nin89
Do it anyway you could probably do that for under a grand if you get everything but the cam used.

$200 for the rear.
$300 for heads.
$150 for cam.
$100 for carb.
$250 to rig an exhaust.
U dont get it, Im not made of money, My car is quick for a lg4, In the seat of the pants it felt like it would keep up if not beat my freinds fully option 86 trans am with tpi only mods he has are edelbrock headers and flowmastercatback The cam should put me in the range of "go" performance I want, then I want the car to handle, and when I think the time is right Ill upgrade to a bigger better motor. its not all about the straight line.

I plan on finishing cam,getting a rear with 3.73's getting a different intake, and a used hooker 3inch catt back

all that and buying hockey skates,stick,gloves... and if I still have enough money an ipod..

like I said its not all about the straight line, no matter what you say, you WILL have more fun in the twisties if you can drive...
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