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Old 12-20-2007, 10:43 PM   #1
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Panhard bar and lower control arms

I'm putting a new rear in my car and am getting a new adj panhard bar because my car is lowered, i was planning on getting one from Spohn because the sway bars i'm getting are also made by them. Is it worth getting the chrome moly ones or should i just get the ones made of mild steel ($30 difference). I also figure i might as well get new lower control arms while the rear is off, Spohn brand control arms are kinda pricey. Should i just go with them or does anyone have any suggestions on what brand i should look at?

Thanks for your time
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:59 PM   #2
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I went with the UMI 1982-02 F-Body Double Adjustable Panhard Bar and UMI 1982-02 F-Body Tubular Non-Adjustable Lower Control Arms. I did pay the extra 30 for the chrome moly though Since my car was lowered...my rear is now centered again and I dont have anymore wheel hop at the track
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:11 AM   #3
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I second UMI. Quality is excelent and there price is nice too.
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:18 AM   #4
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trel, my umi lcas will be coming after christmas. we can do an install day!! just get a umi adj phb and non adj lcas. UMI FTW!
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:20 AM   #5
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<3 thanks guys, hopefully will order everything tonight
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:20 PM   #6
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ive got all UMI's stuff on my car, great stuff.
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:25 PM   #7
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i switched from spohn to umi/wolfe and i got chromoly everything (i also go rod end everything but thats just me)
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:46 PM   #8
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I have a BMR adjustable panhard bar for sale in the classifieds. click the link in my sig if you wanna get some parts that are in great shape!
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:50 AM   #9
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If you go poly, make sure that you keep everything properly lubricated. Not only will the bushings creak and sound like crap but they will bind up and give you a harsher ride.

Check this out:
http://www.ws6zxr.com/showthread.php?t=23014
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:34 PM   #10
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Thanks alot that really cleared alot up
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:53 PM   #11
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Thanks alot that really cleared alot up
what'd you do tonight?
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:11 PM   #12
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Tonight, i took everything off the new posi i have (panhard bar, LCA, etc..) then sanded and grinded the rust off, now tomorrow i plan on painting it
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder

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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Seven.
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:37 AM   #13
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Tonight, i took everything off the new posi i have (panhard bar, LCA, etc..) then sanded and grinded the rust off, now tomorrow i plan on painting it
If you are painting your rear axle, pick up a can of Rust Oleum professional semi gloss black and use that. I think they sell it at Home Depot, but if they don't you can get it at the welding store on 31 (what used to be Mercer Gas). Randy usually stocks it.
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:21 PM   #14
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Yea i sprayed it with rubber undercoating cuz my buddy says it would stand up to the salt and stuff better. But then i did hit it with a coat of rustoleum. Looks fly ass HECK
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder

Quote:
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Seven.
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Yea i sprayed it with rubber undercoating cuz my buddy says it would stand up to the salt and stuff better. But then i did hit it with a coat of rustoleum. Looks fly ass HECK
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:36 PM   #16
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(black95maro helped me with my rear ) And the bolts are nice and shiny silverish against the black diff cover, LOOKS SO BADBUTT
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow View Post
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike View Post
Seven.
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Old 12-25-2007, 02:55 PM   #17
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rustoleum is good stuff, i painted my diff a few years ago in the dead of winter and the stuff is still there, no flaking, rust-through or anything.
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Old 12-26-2007, 07:40 PM   #18
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Do Rust Bullet first then paint. Will last forever.
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Old 12-26-2007, 09:36 PM   #19
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Do Rust Bullet first then paint. Will last forever.
rust preventive?
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:25 PM   #20
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Screw that, I LOVE RUST
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1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder

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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Seven.
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Old 12-27-2007, 07:57 AM   #21
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rust preventive?
It's like POR-15. It's a conversion coating that you can paint right over rust to encapsulate it.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:48 PM   #22
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Screw that, I LOVE RUST

Rust = Lighter = Faster!!!!
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:52 PM   #23
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It's like POR-15. It's a conversion coating that you can paint right over rust to encapsulate it.

Wrong, With POR15 you have to buy their prep solution and apply first then topcaot with POR. If you don't do this POR will NOT work. I have a sealed can if you want to buy it.
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:19 PM   #24
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Wrong, With POR15 you have to buy their prep solution and apply first then topcaot with POR. If you don't do this POR will NOT work. I have a sealed can if you want to buy it.
Thats funny cause years ago when they started, they didnt have the prep solution and jsut sold the pints or quarts.
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Old 12-29-2007, 09:27 AM   #25
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Thats funny cause years ago when they started, they didnt have the prep solution and jsut sold the pints or quarts.
It is most certainly directly applicable. Restomotive told me I could do it, and I have. Granted it certainly works the best when you use marine clean, then metal ready and go that route, but that's not to say it doesn't work if you paint it right on. The surface just has to have good tooth for the coating to stick to. I only use it for frames and such and they are usually sandblasted for that reason.
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