Not this again.

[LS1ow]

also.... day 10, still nothing from mighty mouse about my fan shroud. Emailed 2x and just sent an IG Message.

[LS1ow]

Scuffed, primed, painted.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085591132_247c7ef59a_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085536438_cef87f93d7_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085591077_52f3afebdf_z.jpg


Pretty much just waiting on this damn rad shroud from mighty mouse. I PM'd them on tech now too, seems they are most active there.

harness extenzorz will be tackled today hopefully.

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks good from here man.

[KirkEvil]

also.... day 10, still nothing from mighty mouse about my fan shroud. Emailed 2x and just sent an IG Message.

https://cdn.kapwing.com/final_5d08fb76dec7ec0014dea7db_480237.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1546/25714673732_aecda68b79_b.jpg

[LS1ow]

Did not want to run harness across fancy new drift bash bar, so i got to extending some wires.

Recently ditched the wiper assembly on the car, so i had that whole area to tinker with. Ended up hole sawing a pass threw for the harness. Thankfully it was plenty long enough for those 4 connectors that are normally on the shock tower. So all i had to do is turn the harness around and snake it threw the cowl.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085591142_6996788b88_z.jpg

All the wires for the lighting were no were near long enough though, so they were all extended. Ended up doing grounds as well just bc why not. I was lucky to not have to extend the main 4 connectors so i figured whatever. Better to have to extend 10 wires than 70.

Wires all extended and ready to snake.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085591137_05c611432d_z.jpg


Left off that this point yesterday. today i will run wire accordingly (more tucked than Kaitlyn Jenner) and throw the connectors on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48085591207_8a1e1b15a2_z.jpg


side note, mighty mouse answered Tech pm. "on its way out the door"

[LS1ow]

fan shroud from MM acquired.

[LTb1ow]

Does it fit?

[LS1ow]

still unsure of this. Fans and relays (or is it Reli?) will be here monday. Rather have 5 things not fit at once instead of 1 at a time.

Ended up going with a 16" and a 9" Spal fan as MM says too istead of trying to fiddle with the OEMs fitting.

[LS1ow]

My fans and relay harness showed up yesterday.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48126021292_b7b54629f5_z.jpg

Heres the mighty mouse shroud that showed up last week as well. Granted it took 9 days longer than it should have, it is a nice piece. And it saved me a bunch of time and frustration making one.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48126000912_d8aaa630b6_z.jpg

and MM warned some modification may be needed to get the fans to sit right, but they lined up perfectly. Bolted right in.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48125913371_dc22cb801c_z.jpg

only had another minute to work on the car, so instead of mounting the shroud to the rad, i just threw the lower air dam on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48125943243_42761746fc_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

It's nice when aftermarket parts actually do what they are supposed to do.

[wretched73]

looks good!

[LS1ow]

No pics, but got the fan shroud mounted to the rad with the supplied hardware. Really nice piece actually. After fiddling with some other toys for a bit, and a visit from Cherryclause himself, i wired up the fans.

I also want to thank BLS for using sharpie on my dry erase board and ruining it for the rest of time. :bertstare:

I used a diagram i found on tech and went from there.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/conversions-hybrids/612708d1501332676-aftermarket-electric-fan-wiring-electricfanschematicls1.jpg

This way of wiring should allow the larger fan to run for "low" and then both fans to kick on for "high" since the ground goes to PCM like factory.

EDIT:

looking at this again i realize i may have messed up, but i am not sure if it actually matters. The SPAL relay diagram and the above diagram have opposite pins. What is 86 on the LS1Tech diagram is 85 on the SPAL, along with the inverse on the other side. Does this make a difference?

[Blackbirdws6]

No pics, but got the fan shroud mounted to the rad with the supplied hardware. Really nice piece actually. After fiddling with some other toys for a bit, and a visit from Cherryclause himself, i wired up the fans.

I also want to thank BLS for using sharpie on my dry erase board and ruining it for the rest of time. :bertstare:


I just increased the value of that whiteboard.

[wretched73]

Rubbing alcohol will remove the permanent marker from your dry erase board.

[sweetbmxrider]

Permanent marker will remove permanent marker from your dry erase board.

85 and 86 are interchangeable.

Did you fuse the fans closer to the battery?

[LS1ow]

Permanent marker will remove permanent marker from your dry erase board.

85 and 86 are interchangeable.

Did you fuse the fans closer to the battery?

I didn’t go to batt, I went to the power in post on the fuse box. 1 wire for each fan with in line fuse.

Should I run wire directly to battery instead of the post? Post is feed via 1/0 cable from battt

[LTb1ow]

I didn’t go to batt, I went to the power in post on the fuse box. 1 wire for each fan with in line fuse.

Should I run wire directly to battery instead of the post? Post is feed via 1/0 cable from battt

You should be good, but def get a fuse inline to the fans.

[LS1ow]

You should be good, but def get a fuse inline to the fans.

Each fan has a 30 amp fuse in-line from fuse box power post, and then a 5 amp in line to relays for Keyed on power.

Good?

[sweetbmxrider]

The fuse should be close to the power point. If something happens, you don't want live wire hanging around ready to arc out against any of the many metal grounds nearby. Basically keep the fuse within 12-18 inches of your point of power.

[LS1ow]

The fuse should be close to the power point. If something happens, you don't want live wire hanging around ready to arc out against any of the many metal grounds nearby. Basically keep the fuse within 12-18 inches of your point of power.

Gotcha, ya I’m fine then. They are about 18” away.

Also, should the 5 amp power wire from the relays 85 pin be keyed on power or direct to batt? I have it to a key on power now, but maybe it’s incorrect

[LS1ow]

Si or no?

[sweetbmxrider]

Should be fine either way. If its constant power, it'll be easier to wire up dat turbo timer with fans....

[LTb1ow]

Mine are all powered off battery. Makes diagnostic stuff a bit more easy

[LS1ow]

Ended up pulling all power from bulkhead connector for battery cables at the fire wall. That was the most direct power/least amount of wire route. So both the fan + wires, and + wires for the relays ran to there. All with inline fuse holders. 30amp for the fans, and 5amp for the relays.

Relays are grounded to the factory shock tower ground because its right there.

Out put signal from relay goes to there respective fans.

in put signal to relay comes from the High and Low trigger pins on the PCM. From what i understand, the way its triggered should allow the 16" fan to run as the "low speed" and then have the 9" fan kick on at the same time as the 16" for the high.

Originally i had them like this:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48169023341_0333195e62_z.jpg

with the harness running up the outside of the fender mount area along with the light harness.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48169101082_3501fd9466_z.jpg

but, i am a doofus and didnt think of clearance for hood. So when i was all done i tried to close the hood and it was hitting the relays. Unbolted them and rotated them to fit on the face of the tower. And ditched the extra ground block i dont think ill be needed anyway.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48178890706_7c6b76ccd0_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

The electrical gods are proud

[sweetbmxrider]

Not a bad way to spend 10 minutes.

[LS1ow]

started on the driver side pile of hell. not much more left to do.

question though, is it possible to have to many grounds to 1 ground block? After cleaning up the wiring and making it look nice i realized maybe this is a problem?

The ground block has

-nitrous fuel
-nitrous nitrous
-nitrous purge
(those are the 3 on top)

then across the bottom:

- 3x ground that used to be on core support
- ground that used to be on the driveside frame rail
- nitrous fuel pressure saftey switch

and i still have to add 2 to it. 1 for the electric pump, 1 for the line lock.

Thats going to be 10 things grounded out on the same block. Should i look at possibly relocating some? Maybe replace the red wire with something thicc'r?


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48188030027_51a3854547_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48188030102_845d007806_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Size your grounds the same way you size your hots.

Use a calc like this and combine your multiple grounds to get what you should have for the main lead
https://www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html

[LS1ow]

Size your grounds the same way you size your hots.



by using whats available on the rack at work???


srs, if all the grounds are 10g, i would need to use a 2g wire from ground bolt to ground block?

[LTb1ow]

by using whats available on the rack at work???

srs, if all the grounds are 10g, i would need to use a 2g wire from ground bolt to ground block?

If you truly needed the 10g for each circuit, then yes, you would want that.

[sweetbmxrider]

Yeah I would definitely step up that ground without doing the maths.

[LS1ow]

If you truly needed the 10g for each circuit, then yes, you would want that.

Did i need it? No. Was it the only sized black wire Audi had in spools? Yes.

[Blackbirdws6]

Those grounds are adorable. Can't wait to see them grow up!

[LTb1ow]

Did i need it? No. Was it the only sized black wire Audi had in spools? Yes.

Add the max current for each circuit, toss a few amps to the total, and then size the main ground based on that number.

Or, 2g and send it.

[LS1ow]

Yeah, we’re gunna 2g and send it

[LS1ow]

2G cable has arrived.

Thicc

[Blackbirdws6]

Illuminati approved?

[LS1ow]

Is there any nicer options than some napa fuel hose to use for the catch can and overflow that isnt AN/cost a million dollars?

[LTb1ow]

Is there any nicer options than some napa fuel hose to use for the catch can and overflow that isnt AN/cost a million dollars?

Pushlok/twist tite stuff will get you fittings without the AN fitting cost.

[LS1ow]

Pushlok/twist tite stuff will get you fittings without the AN fitting cost.

i dont care so much about fittings as i do not look like it was built in a trailer park

[sweetbmxrider]

Can you snag some soft cloth conduit to put over rubber hose?

[LS1ow]

Can you snag some soft cloth conduit to put over rubber hose?

https://media.giphy.com/media/xKy2w6LehxxHa/giphy.gif

[LTb1ow]

I would go with the spray painted conduit look

[LS1ow]

I would go with the spray painted conduit look

red?

[Blackbirdws6]

red?

Destroyer gray

[LS1ow]

Destroyer gray

car isnt nice enough to have such a beautiful color

[LS1ow]

tossed the other headlamp and brackets in last night, as well as the trans cooler.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48253442686_f9e6abfc85_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48253517802_002fc68535_z.jpg

For the trans cooler lines, i pulled them off and cut a few inches off just to make routing a bit nicer. Clamped them back down and they do not want to pull off, but they do spin on the cooler. Think they are going to leak? Anything i can do? was thinking better clamp and pull them off and clean area with brakeclean. I imagine they are spinning bc fluid is on the fitting.

[KirkEvil]

Find a race model trans cooler with NPT or AN ports to add pushlok fittings or better. Only a matter of time before those hoses soften with temp and blow.

[sweetbmxrider]

https://media1.tenor.com/images/a6c96f8e0292a23920311848c7d702e2/tenor.gif?itemid=5364615

[LS1ow]

Started to finish the UMI drag bar bar install and just have a few questions for some of you that have already.

1. for bushing location, just run the equidistant from say backing plate/tire on both sides? on any section of the bar that is straight? assuming closest to outside is best here.

2. It says nothing in the instructions about the pitch of the bar. It shows how to set it up and preload and everything, but not were to start at. Should the bar be flat? (0 degree) or match the pinion angle?

[sweetbmxrider]

Isn't the one end link fully in and the other is used for preloading? The more it pitches back, the more squirrels it will snag. Could be a positive or a negative?

[LTb1ow]

You wanna crank that bitch till you get a nasty ghetto lean going

Then, sub 1.5 can be yours.

[LS1ow]

You wanna crank that bitch till you get a nasty ghetto lean going

Then, sub 1.5 can be yours.

...already went 1.47 doe

[LS1ow]

Isn't the one end link fully in and the other is used for preloading? The more it pitches back, the more squirrels it will snag. Could be a positive or a negative?

Ya, kinda. But both sides have a lot of adjustment. I guess how it sits really doesn’t matter since it’s still pivoting in the same spot? Right now I have both links screwed out about half of their range, and the bar ends that point forwards are flat with the bottom of the car(back of car is on jack stands with rear hanging)


EDIT: since rear is hanging, bar ends will be pointed up since sway bar end links do not droop with suspension, but rear housing which bar is mounted to does.

[LTb1ow]

Kirk is the master at this shenanigans, offer up some baileys as tribute

[LS1ow]

Ran into an issue with the sway bar, so need to call UMI to verify something. I double checked part numbers against the little inventory sheet that comes in the box, and it checks out, but i think they may have sent me the wrong mounts for the stock rear. There is about 180* of possible surface for the mount to make contact with, about 60* of it.

Little difficult to capture in pics, but you can deff see it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48289333267_89b15e741c_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48289228601_3bf5915b5a_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48289228136_b27ed9cf27_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48289227616_a2ef3177eb_z.jpg

Also, removed the rear bumper of the car to take out the rear bumper support, as i planned to whip up a tube one to save some LBS, and snapped all 3 bolts on each side. So that bumper support is not a permanent piece of the car.

[Blackbirdws6]

Yea that doesn't look right but I'm sure they will get it sorted out. I'd not wait to get a hold of them as they are likely in full swing prep mode for their auto x happening later this month.

[LS1ow]

Yea that doesn't look right but I'm sure they will get it sorted out. I'd not wait to get a hold of them as they are likely in full swing prep mode for their auto x happening later this month.

spoke to them on the phone about 20 mins ago, says its normal as clamps are for both 2.75 and 3" axle tubes. Did recommend to throw some tacs on it, so ill be doing so.

[MDSheds_SS]

Had nothing but issues with my bar, and it hurt the 60’. N/A I bet it hurts your 60, on spray it might be needed tho. The bar moved a lot in the bushings. I had to put clamps on both side to keep it in place. Hope you have better luck then I did. It’s an expensive wall decor now

[LS1ow]

Minor updates.

Havent had much time to work on the car, also its been hot as balls and my garage lacks AC. But got some small not to labor intensive stuff done.

After watching the video of McFlayy's hood fly up after he crosses the trap, scared me enough to not only fab up a safety catch on the new front clip, but also add a second set of old school style hood pins. While they dont look the best, id rather be safe than sorry.

Originally wanted to run these, but due to the bubble of the cowl, there was little to no thread left on the pin by the time it passed through the hood. How slopped the hood is is something i didnt take into account when adding the tabs for the extra hood pins.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48253442731_0eba6f51c9_z.jpg

So one call to my buddy who makes fancy things out of blocks of metal, and we have these. 8" long with 5" of thread, aluminum pins. long enough to pass threw the hood, with plenty of meat on the bottom.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48372323736_5e02f8c4d8_z.jpg

since new holes had to be drilled for the pins, it was time to change up the hood wrap as well. As much as i like the blue/black/grey moo cow look, it opted for something less beater bomb looking, that still was not just a plain black hood wrap.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48372454632_e27ee3ea3e_z.jpg

opted for the full digi camo to match the berger instead of just the center of the cowl like i had it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48372323471_ac65806062_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48372323481_466cb25738_z.jpg

Just waiting on some small hardware to install the plates for the pins and its complete.

All the car is waiting on is a lower rad hose. Which i havent had luck finding one that fits, so some AN lines may be in my future.

[wretched73]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48372323481_466cb25738_z.jpg


https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/504/460/6d2.png

[LS1ow]

So thanks to the mad scientist, i now have a larger trans cooler to replace my smaller guy.

However, due to the whole tubular front end thing, i had it set up specifically for the size trans cooler i had. So the mounts will not work with the new cooler vertically, so i have to run it horizontally. With the trans lines now coming in from the side, does it matter which goes were? I know when it was vertical and fed from the bottom, it did not matter which port was in or out.

[KirkEvil]

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out

[LS1ow]

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out

cooler is not oriented in any particular way correct? specific in/out port? all the matters is the trans line, yar?

[KirkEvil]

cooler is not oriented in any particular way correct? specific in/out port? all the matters is the trans line, yar?

yarly

[IROCZman15]

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out



correct, this is how I know to do it too. feed line in at the bottom so it fills fluid upward and air bubbles can escape from the top

[LS1ow]

new larger trans cooler mounted. Ended up mounting it off the tabs for the lower air dam. Just used a some aluminum flat bar so it had more clamping area than just 2 1.5" tabs of steel.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48434816026_fcd6d66e95_z.jpg

and installed the hood pin shield things on the hood. debating getting the nipple tassels for them, but looking to find some black ones.

+https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48434960077_ab37c0439e_z.jpg

also bit the bullet and ordered a cage for the car. :cry:

[LTb1ow]

dem hoses are not seated all the way.

[KirkEvil]

dem hoses could be FASSTER in braided nylon

[LS1ow]

dem hoses are not seated all the way.

the bottom one is seated against the cup, the top is not.


but is now.

[Blackbirdws6]

Are you going to earn a chute as well?

[LS1ow]

Are you going to earn a chute as well?

no matter how much weight and power is added, there is still a hippo behind the wheel. so ney.


more srs note... are we gunna be able to do a full pass with the RCs at the rental?

[Blackbirdws6]

no matter how much weight and power is added, there is still a hippo behind the wheel. so ney.


more srs note... are we gunna be able to do a full pass with the RCs at the rental?

We will likely need to do a 1/8 mile due to transmitter range.

[LS1ow]

We will likely need to do a 1/8 mile due to transmitter range.

nonsense, 2.4ghz good for atleast 1 mile.

[Blackbirdws6]

nonsense, 2.4ghz good for atleast 1 mile.

Mmkay. Bring a spare revo

[LS1ow]

tracking numbers for cage received.


so scare.

[Blackbirdws6]

Should be a simple install on the Revo.

[LS1ow]

Should be a simple install on the Revo.

pull out all the threads.

[LS1ow]

Swing set arrived. Pre-Notched for my pleasure. :bertstare:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48494982751_d947d21026_z.jpg

[qwikz28]

Swing set arrived. Pre-Notched for my pleasure. :bertstare:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48494982751_d947d21026_z.jpg

TFTI

[LS1ow]

so somewhere in the past 4 months i lost the nut that holds the main power cable from the battery to the fuse box. I tried a few different ones i had sitting in hardware drawers, but no success.

Anyone know what size is needed?

its the nut that is under the red cover.
https://images2.imgbox.com/76/f9/nLGZ6jiZ_o.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Since the car is so light, can't you take it to a Lowe's or Home Depot and spin it in that bolt/nut finder?

[LS1ow]

Since the car is so light, can't you take it to a Lowe's or Home Depot and spin it in that bolt/nut finder?

i did that yesterday but didnt have enough clearance to spin car completely around since its only mounted like 5' off the ground.

[MDSheds_SS]

If my memory serves me right, it’s the same size as a starter solenoid for an older ford. I use those for snow plowing cause they are heavy duty and easily accessible.

[sweetbmxrider]

3/8NC16

[Blackbirdws6]

i did that yesterday but didnt have enough clearance to spin car completely around since its only mounted like 5' off the ground.

I would have at least thought you would just ripped it off from HD and brought it home. It's one of those things I should just buy before doing my next project.

[KirkEvil]

so somewhere in the past 4 months i lost the nut that holds the main power cable from the battery to the fuse box. I tried a few different ones i had sitting in hardware drawers, but no success.

Anyone know what size is needed?

its the nut that is under the red cover.
https://images2.imgbox.com/76/f9/nLGZ6jiZ_o.jpg

Believe it is M8x1.25.

Mcmaster 97400A102 or try lowes for SS flange nuts

[sweetbmxrider]

Believe it is M8x1.25.

Mcmaster 97400A102 or try lowes for SS flange nuts

https://www.memesmonkey.com/images/memesmonkey/a6/a6b0832e40312a4586746c2017d5bfee.jpeg

[LS1ow]

Not much to update on.

Cage work as begun. Went with an S&W kit, so far so good. Main hoop was a little long on both sides, but other than that so far its going smooth.

Also opted to get a set of these bad girls. Aluminum door panels from Big Wig RaceCars. Precut and drilled, beveled border, and have an aluminum bracket on them to reuse factory switches.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48722901836_6217f8b2eb_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

really wanted to leave the door panels raw, but figured satin black would tie in much better and wouldn't immediately catch any potential uhhh... clients... :bertstare: eyes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48731556457_167a625076_z.jpg

install was super simple. Completely reversible as well. Supplied everything you need to install, even the drill bit. The hardware is really nice as well. They are counter sunk screws with counter sunk button washers. Looks nice. I may end up swapping the stainless ones for black ones if i can find them, but this will certainly do.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48731556477_c67de3a6c0_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks good. What's the weight savings on the panels?

[sweetbmxrider]

Pretty slick, sir.

[LS1ow]

Looks good. What's the weight savings on the panels?

with panels/door speakers/magic it should be 25/30lbs

[LS1ow]

cage is in place and ready for final install. buddy is coming down with tig on monday night to burn her in.

Plan is slide cage forwards and weld rear bars to main hoop, slide cage back into position and bolt it. was going to skip bolting in all together, but i figure bolting it down will suck the plates "form" the plates to the body better than a hammer will. Then weld the plates in.


..and hopefully never test it out.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48803964307_d8857d9b45_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48803821691_99ac8e28a5_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48803821686_ea4eda4e22_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Be careful on driver ankle biter, your fuel lines are right under it.

[LS1ow]

Be careful on driver ankle biter, your fuel lines are right under it.

good thinkin. Should be able to slide welding blanket between lines and floor

[LS1ow]

swing set 80% in.


Tubes completely Tig'd. Plates bolted down and tac'd. Will completely weld plates in Monday/Tuesday.

Then interior goes back in and we get to tuning.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48843514096_a856c86759_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48843697827_b7e81a230e_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

finally got around to finishing cage install. had a hard time with some spots with the metal being to thin and undercoat sucking through and messing up the weld.

but all is done now. Laid first coat of paint on it last night as well, well give more coats today and then toss interior back in.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48898090037_fcbf993d33_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48897361983_62e9335700_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48898090262_8d6786ce16_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48897896696_842c21d277_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Congrats on not burning the car down. Did you get an x-ray on the welds?

[LS1ow]

Congrats on not burning the car down. Did you get an x-ray on the welds?

i did, heres how they looked.

https://i.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/021/557/conceit.JPG

[LS1ow]

So 2 problems have been uncovered in the past 24 hours.

1. I must have messed up the nitrous wiring, nothing is getting power. Going to check over everything tommorow and if need be just start from scratch and build new harnesses.

2. Car has a coolant leak from the thermostat housing. Ended up draining coolant and pulling housing off. Chased threads to make sure everything was good. (Tiny aluminum bolts into aluminum housing) and reapplied a gasket and torqued down. Refilled coolant. Still leaking. Upon further inspection, housing has a crack in it. New billet unit has been overnighted from summit.

Didn’t want to dig into nitrous wiring tonight, want to do it all in 1
Shot so I don’t mess anything up. So instead I spent another hour or so redoing the carpet that was removed to do the cage. Doing Ozite again so it’s not terrible, driver side and passenger side seat and foot area done. Rear hatch and back seat area will be completed after nitrous problems are solved

[MDSheds_SS]

Nitrous tuning at the track or on the dyno?

[LS1ow]

Nitrous tuning at the track or on the dyno?

Dyno.

Maybe at the track to if the current dosage isnt enough to outrun ya :wink:

[MDSheds_SS]

Shouldn’t be a problem out running me. No new mods unfortunately

[LS1ow]

doot doot.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48935724937_615e6a4840_c.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks expensive

[LS1ow]

Looks expensive

expensive, not really. Going to be costly, you bet.

[LTb1ow]

Yessssssss :twisted:

[PolarBear]

Crop. Your. Pictures

:banghead:

[LS1ow]

Crop. Your. Pictures

:banghead:

its a screenshot of a video my good sir.

[The_Bishop]

Better?

https://i.imgur.com/3fVi9Ic.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Post is wrong, like yo wiring

[IROCZman15]

TWO purge lines for a single stage kit ??!

[Featherburner]

Did you get an x-ray on the welds?I think they need a cut and etch!:-P

[LS1ow]

TWO purge lines for a single stage kit ??!

Bro, everything is for the gram.

[LS1ow]

Also, having issues with the Efans. Tore into it today but didn’t have time to finish.

[PolarBear]

its a screenshot of a video my good sir.

A screenshot is still a picture. It takes seconds to be a decent poster :lol:

[LTb1ow]

Also, having issues with the Efans. Tore into it today but didn’t have time to finish.

Did you check the tune yet?

Have someone with HPT manual cycle on fans in the interface to verify your pin choice was right.

[LS1ow]

Did you check the tune yet?

Have someone with HPT manual cycle on fans in the interface to verify your pin choice was right.

Nah. I don’t have HPT myself so need to wait for Tooooner. Hopefully tmmr.

[LS1ow]

t'was the tune

[LTb1ow]

rOWDY BURNOUT TIME??

[LS1ow]

rOWDY BURNOUT TIME??

attempting to set sway bar first. which is turning out to be a pain.

[LTb1ow]

attempting to set sway bar first. which is turning out to be a pain.

Yea no idea how to set that thing. Always let Kirk work magic on it. Although my car never had the gangster lean he had on his old car. :|

[LS1ow]

Yea no idea how to set that thing. Always let Kirk work magic on it. Although my car never had the gangster lean he had on his old car. :|

I listed to his instruction, it’s just a bitch Bc it’s a small space.

No room in there with the 315s and the drag set up isn’t much small. But I did just think of putting the front runners on be back. That’ll give me plenty of room to reach in there and adjust the link

[KirkEvil]

I listed to his instruction, it’s just a bitch Bc it’s a small space.

No room in there with the 315s and the drag set up isn’t much small. But I did just think of putting the front runners on be back. That’ll give me plenty of room to reach in there and adjust the link

https://static1.cbrimages.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Batman-slapping-Robin-Meme-Blank.jpg

[LS1ow]

Street Mode Snuffleupagus activated. switched over to the bigger MAF and bigger intake after driving around on the former maf just to make sure the front end didnt fall off/any other problems.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48973854082_17014f5fd0_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48973124933_0ec1df8bd7_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48973676391_18c270d6de_c.jpg

Race mode elephant trunk will have second half of intake tube to a 4" V stack in grill, ala Chris1313 Prostock.


Still need to adjust the bumper. I just tossed it on real quick so i can leave the car outside. Certainly glad i opted for all slotted tabs for bumper mounting. Should make fitting everything nice a breeze.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48973676751_ca97665d1b_c.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Next pics better be a wheelie on the street

[LS1ow]

Next pics better be a wheelie on the street

that will be tried after the rental. i dont want this thing to pop before then. :facepalm:

[Blackbirdws6]

that will be tried after the rental. i dont want this thing to pop before then. :facepalm:

Probably too old of a movie for you but this is all I've been thinking about.

9SqM1VX2qlc

[sweetbmxrider]

No stars and stripes or bald eagles spitting fire on the intake? So. Much. Disappoint.

[LTb1ow]

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e0/7d/2f/e07d2fddbe148fcf2f2d1915bc80e3ab.jpg

https://www.on3performance.com/shop/on-3-performance-94mm-cast-aluminum-wheel-turbocharger-t6-stainless-v-band-exhaust-housing-copy/

Juuust saying.. No bottles to fill..

:twisted:

[LS1ow]

Dyno in 24 hours.

[Blackbirdws6]

Dyno in 24 hours.

Please avoid taking video with a potato and in portrait mode. Let freedom ring.:usa::usa:

[LTb1ow]

and?

[IROCZman15]

torch any ring lands?

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

Not on instagram, therefor this is #fakenews

[IROCZman15]

11 melted pistons

[sweetbmxrider]

But what about the welds on the intake?

[wretched73]

But what about the welds on the intake?

Blown.


Still nothing compared to the piston rings he fried

[LS1ow]

interesting day. will update later when have a sec to write out the issues we ran into and stuffs.

long story short, drove it there and back, ran out of nitrous, made 552

[LTb1ow]

Update?

[LS1ow]

okay so, the car has survived both the drive down to linden, dyno pulls, and drive home.

First we did a hand full of pulls on motor to get the new MAF and intake squared away. during this time, i discovered the summit racing rad cap i have is not up to par. While doing a pull, it blew out leaving coolant all over the place. That cleaning up took a while, but all is well

With the motor pulls wrapped, we turned on the warmer and had a moment of prayer.

Once up to optimal bottle pressure, we started to program the WOT/TPS. Which is were more trouble began. Programming of the RPM and everything went cake. but then when we tried to do the TPS signal, we ran into some issues. The controller would kick on for 5 seconds or so and shut down. I had it wired with a power tap from the radio keyed power, so i assumed maybe that was the issue. Decided to ditch that and just temporarily wire it to constant power. Snipped the power wire and used a butt connector to run a new wire all the way to the fuse box in the front of the car. With an eyelet to the power post that the battery cable runs to. Flipped the arming switch...same crap. Began to panic and assume i had myself a bad WOT/TPS box.

Thankfully cooler heads prevailed and Nish wanted me to check over the wiring diagrams i used, and not the ones on NX website, which he thankfully asked me to bring to the dyno in case something exactly like this was going to happen.

As a safety, i have a fuel pressure safety switch in line right before the rail. The switch triggers ground, particularly the ground for the nitrous controller. :bertstare:

Everything besides the TPS range it programmed no problem, because the car was on and had fuel pressure. The TPS has to be done with the car off so you can set the range by holding the pedal at WOT. The pump would prime, then bleed down, obviously not making any fuel pressure, killing the triggered ground at the Fuel pressure switch. :facepalm:

...i ended up just disconnecting the FPSS and jumping the wires for the remainder of the time. Remind me at the rental to unjump them so i have a FPSS.

Unfortunately i wasnt able to get my bottle refilled on short notice, so i headed into the dyno with less than a full bottle. Thanks to me playing with it, me not having the feed line to the noids not tight, and me showing every one of my friends that stopped by the purge.

We were able to make 4/5 passed on the bottle before we were shooting blanks.

Nitrous on a 4 second ramp, coming in only above 4k, the best pull before not being able to make enough bottle pressure was 552hp.

Each of the 4/5 pulls saw small bumps in power, 7-8hp each time from the very safe first pull tune. all while steadily dropping in bottle pressure.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49025964832_757982f879_c.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Sounds like a good time brah.

You should see why the fuel pressure is bleeding down, technically it shouldn't once the pump is primed. Probably the check valve in the pump...

[IROCZman15]

nice job. pretty good numbers for ya.
I dont (currently) run a fuel pressure safety switch. I might in the future and I know it is recommended, but i've gone through around 30 10lb bottles of n20 and been fine...but I may add one in the future with the next engine. I also don't currently use a window switch or progressive controller or bottle heater. just an arming button, a WOT switch and my thumb to press the spray button on the shifter. I didn't want to complicate it and didn't want to have an over engineered system for a street car.. your is less street so I do see why you have it. glad you got it sorted out though

what are your expectations at racewars ?

[LS1ow]

what are your expectations at racewars ?

destruction.

[LS1ow]

you should have went for the head...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49059689461_1c0c24482d_c.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

I'll play along and will say your efforts in hitting the interim goal are acknowledged.

However, I expected a 9 out of the car with 150 shot so you have some work to do. Related to the meme, you must be forgetting how things really ended.

[LS1ow]

I'll play along and will say your efforts in hitting the interim goal are acknowledged.

However, I expected a 9 out of the car with 150 shot so you have some work to do. Related to the meme, you must be forgetting how things really ended.

:nod: as you know it is all in good fun and out of love. dont for a second think i didnt have the "what did it cost?" meme ready...



and you are correct, lil write up on that coming when i get a moment to elaborate on the happenings.

[LS1ow]

Alright, so Monday was an over all successful day.


The first passes off the trailer I was a little concerned. For those that don’t remember my best last year was 10.84 @ 124.

I wanted to get a feel for the car and calm the nerves so we started with some motor passes. Car did not even break into the 10s. Passes were:

11.12 @ 120mph - 1.49 60’
11.18 @ 120mph - 1.53 60’
11.07 @ 121mph – 1.48 60’

I did take a lot of weight off the front of the car since the last time it was raced, but I also ended up adding some LBS.

-nitrous system(a full bottle is much heavier than I thought)
-rear drag bar is more beefy than the stock unit
-roll cage
-New Chic-fil-a built by my house about 6 months ago

I was pretty annoyed it didn’t perform the same as last year, but Nishan reminded me about how last years DA was damn near perfect compared to this years crap air. So that made me feel a little better.

With the cobwebs shaken and nerves calmed, it was time to turn on the bottle heater. Progressive turned to 3 second ramp in, controller allowing nitrous to come on from 4,000rpm to 6,500rpm and only at 95% or more throttle.

With the bottle up to 1100, I had a moment of silence for my 10 bolt and headed to the line. While heading up I purged towards the sausage line as I wanted as many witnesses for my demise.

10.58 @ 130 – 1.50 60ft, damn that felt good.

At the line I tried to purge the system again, and got nothing. Thank you for all that helped out diag my lack of purge. As you know, the gram would not be the same without the purge.

Thank you to depicted squad for helping me and realizing without a purge cloud, it doesnt matter how fast the car is.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069772992_76aed564d4_c.jpg

Next pass we turned the progressive down to 2.5 second ramp in

11.38 @ 120 mph… 1.55 60’ ft.

At first I thought I hurt something, but the log looked fined. We came to realize when I purged, I flipped the switch for the controller off. So that was a on motor pass, with a nitrous tune lol

N2o Pass 3, 2 second ramp in

10.35 @ 130 – 1.43 60’

N2o Pass 4, 1.5 second ramp in

10.32 @ 131 – 1.49 60’

N2o Pass 4, 1.0 second ramp in

10.48 @ 127 – 1.40 60’ This pass killed the bottle, Ran out of nitrous pressure up top. But man, that 1.40 60 felt NICE.


Swapped in a filled bottle and turned on the heater. While waiting for the bottle to heat up, they announced the rental would be ending soon(fuq?) so I headed to the car and got ready for the last pass.

N20 Pass 5, .5 second ramp in

10.16 @ 132 – 1.40 60’

That pass felt amazing. I wanted to make 1 more pass and turn it down to 0 ramp in, but by the time we reviewed the log and got the car cooled it was done. I wish I could have gotten one more pass it, but oh well. Prob better off. Who knows what the nitrous would have done to the 10 bolt with no ramp in.



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49054530556_d063e61e92_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49054744842_43fb6c55e8_c.jpg

Thank you to everyone that was there to help me solve the demons I kept running into all day. Those will be sorted out in the near future. Thank you to Adam for having dumb strong fingers to pull fuses out and thank you to my friend Brown for having tiny hands to fix my purge. All the input and advice from all you guys have bought this from a rolling chassis to a car on the cusp of a 9 second slip. You guys are truly the best.

headed back home...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49054520266_262539ae00_c.jpg

[IROCZman15]

damn dude. very awesome. impressive indeed. I'm glad your 10 bolt held up.. is this your last track event for the year I'm assuming? Overall, I would say the car is successful, so kudos to you for that.

[sweetbmxrider]

What are the ten bolt et and 60' records? You have to be close to something....

[The_Bishop]

Nicely done, sir. Pics look awesome.

[LTb1ow]

Guess I better step my game up this winter.

Congrats man, always good when things work out the way you want.

[LS1ow]

damn dude. very awesome. impressive indeed. I'm glad your 10 bolt held up.. is this your last track event for the year I'm assuming? Overall, I would say the car is successful, so kudos to you for that.

Me and my tuner have been tossing the idea of heading to Island one night and trying for the 9 second slip, but we elected to just shut it down for the year. Seeing that 9 is something I want to happen with all my friends there.

What are the ten bolt et and 60' records? You have to be close to something....

Funny you mention that. Some rando on Instagram that follows me saw the times and DM’d me a list from LS1Tech of the top 10 60’ on a 10 bolt... I’m proud to say that list will be getting an update. I am number 3. With the 2 ahead of me being 1.375 and 1.392. Both Nitrous cars spraying the whole shot from the go, no progressive. I feel that turning the progressive off and letting it eat it all from the get is either going to put me at the top, or put the 10 bolt out to pasture.

Nicely done, sir. Pics look awesome.

Thank you sir!

Guess I better step my game up this winter.

Congrats man, always good when things work out the way you want.

Looking forward to our run, been about 9 years in the making.

[IROCZman15]

Nice

And I’m guessing that atco staff didn’t give you any hassles about running under 10.49 with the 6 point roll bar? The let it slide for the day ? And no sfi trans shield, flexplate shield etc?
Basically since it’s a track rental test and tune? Just curious. I worry about that stuff coming into play for me in the near future and I worry about getting booted from island for it

[sweetbmxrider]

Nice

And I’m guessing that atco staff didn’t give you any hassles about running under 10.49 with the 6 point roll bar? The let it slide for the day ? And no sfi trans shield, flexplate shield etc?
Basically since it’s a track rental test and tune? Just curious. I worry about that stuff coming into play for me in the near future and I worry about getting booted from island for it

6 point is sub 11.5 to 10.0 or trapping 135mph or higher iirc. Flexplate and shield is 9.99 or faster or 135mph+

But yeah, rental is more lenient with the detail stuff. Helmet, bar, harness and you aren't likely to get too hurt if **** goes bad. Its your life though, how much is it worth?

[LTb1ow]

The one and only goal everyone should be going for is +153mph...

chuuuuute!

[IROCZman15]

6 point is sub 11.5 to 10.0 or trapping 135mph or higher iirc. Flexplate and shield is 9.99 or faster or 135mph+

But yeah, rental is more lenient with the detail stuff. Helmet, bar, harness and you aren't likely to get too hurt if **** goes bad. Its your life though, how much is it worth?

yup, I see that he is on the cusp of the 9.99 set of requirements . I must have had my brain jumbled but for some reason I thought 10.49 was the number for a roll cage. I read your post and then checked the nhra guide and realized I was indeed incorrect and 10.00e.t./135mh is the limit. ref guide: http://www.nhraracer.com/Files/Tech/2019%20ET%20Quick%20Reference%20Charts.pdf
.. my mistake.

[MDSheds_SS]

The NJ Devil is well into the 9s @ 130+ with factory belt and no bar at all. A little crazy if ask me but... send it!!

[LS1ow]

The NJ Devil is well into the 9s @ 130+ with factory belt and no bar at all. A little crazy if ask me but... send it!!

After feeling how the car felt on spray, especially at the big end, I am glad I have a cage and harness.

[MDSheds_SS]

I noticed a huge difference with my ET pros vs the Hoosiers. Both at the 60’ and on the big end. Love the look of Hoosiers but I will never go back. Maybe something to look into if your not 100 % comfortable with the way it feels.

[LS1ow]

I noticed a huge difference with my ET pros vs the Hoosiers. Both at the 60’ and on the big end. Love the look of Hoosiers but I will never go back. Maybe something to look into if your not 100 % comfortable with the way it feels.


i meant more of the car pulling hard af and seeing 130mph traps. Not that 120 vs 130 is going to make much of a diff if you guys have to peel me off the wall one day.


Really? I love the way my set up feels(Hoosiers in rear, Mickey T up front) Maybe you being on a taller tire effected it more? im only on a 26x10 hoosier drag radial, not a full slick.


side note, pulled car off the trailer into garage finally. theres a LOT of oil on the trailer.

[LTb1ow]

i meant more of the car pulling hard af and seeing 130mph traps. Not that 120 vs 130 is going to make much of a diff if you guys have to peel me off the wall one day.


Really? I love the way my set up feels(Hoosiers in rear, Mickey T up front) Maybe you being on a taller tire effected it more? im only on a 26x10 hoosier drag radial, not a full slick.


side note, pulled car off the trailer into garage finally. theres a LOT of oil on the trailer.

Get you some puke tanks and vent as much crankcase pressure as you can.

[Blackbirdws6]

side note, pulled car off the trailer into garage finally. theres a LOT of oil on the trailer.

Any in the passenger side footwell? :nick:

[sweetbmxrider]

Any in the passenger side footwell? :nick:

Check number 7 piston for a hole now before fingers get pointed at innocent pals ....maybe we won't go down that road today.....

[LS1ow]

dat 6pm world premier.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49092137647_09e38a49e0_c.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Who tuned your car?

[LS1ow]

Who tuned your car?

Notsureifsrs



Nish, the kid with the beard that was with us at rental

[TunedByNishan]

Me and my tuner have been tossing the idea of heading to Island one night and trying for the 9 second slip, but we elected to just shut it down for the year. Seeing that 9 is something I want to happen with all my friends there.


Hey now...I never said we shouldn't go! Only that you might give the track officials at Island damn near a heart attack when you go 10.1 again with your tech card filled out with another "11.0 Estimated E.T" :kneeslap:

I'm still DOWN.................!



I was pretty annoyed it didn’t perform the same as last year, but Nishan reminded me about how last years DA was damn near perfect compared to this years crap air. So that made me feel a little better.



Last year's RaceWars we raced in -1500 DA. This year we raced in +500 DA. Big difference! Car did exactly what it should do on motor given the atmospheric conditions. At least you had something to make up for it this year!



At the line I tried to purge the system again, and got nothing. Thank you for all that helped out diag my lack of purge. As you know, the gram would not be the same without the purge.



Everything we do is for the gram...



Swapped in a filled bottle and turned on the heater. While waiting for the bottle to heat up, they announced the rental would be ending soon(fuq?) so I headed to the car and got ready for the last pass.

N20 Pass 5, .5 second ramp in

10.16 @ 132 – 1.40 60’

That pass felt amazing. I wanted to make 1 more pass and turn it down to 0 ramp in, but by the time we reviewed the log and got the car cooled it was done. I wish I could have gotten one more pass it, but oh well. Prob better off. Who knows what the nitrous would have done to the 10 bolt with no ramp in.



And we still had slightly more wiggle room to play with as far as nitrous settings go to help the car get out a little harder. I'd like to think it wouldn't of resulted in pushing it back to the trailer though. I had budgeted our time that we'd be ending around 6pm like last year so the 4pm last call was a surprise! I think with just a couple more adjustments we could have clicked offed a 10.0 pass on just a 150 shot. Would have been amazing! The car straight up gets down for how handicapped it is mechanically!

More improvements will come




Thank you to everyone that was there to help me solve the demons I kept running into all day. Those will be sorted out in the near future. Thank you to Adam for having dumb strong fingers to pull fuses out and thank you to my friend Brown for having tiny hands to fix my purge. All the input and advice from all you guys have bought this from a rolling chassis to a car on the cusp of a 9 second slip. You guys are truly the best.



In all seriousness, I've literally watched you build, abort, sell, build, abort again, sell again, and build at least 15 F-Body cars. I'm really happy that this one is shaping up to be a realistic version of your goals. Proud & Happy to be a small part of it

[Jersey Mike]

You made this man make an account! :rofl:

Good work, Nish. Beggs has been raving about how much personal attention you've shown and how hands on you've been. Now convince him to bring it to Pocono!

[LTb1ow]

Notsureifsrs

Nish, the kid with the beard that was with us at rental

Me, serious?

:bertstare:

[LS1ow]

Good news folk, pulled the car out the garage to spin it around and no oil to be found.


Do I just file the oil on the trailer under never happened?

[LTb1ow]

But is there any oil left in the motor or trans?

[LS1ow]

But is there any oil left in the motor or trans?

Cmon bro, of course I didn’t bother to look at that

[KirkEvil]

Good news folk, pulled the car out the garage to spin it around and no oil to be found.


Do I just file the oil on the trailer under never happened?

Stock drivetrain tears. Its happy to be on 4 wheels again

[The_Bishop]

All joking aside, check under the hood for signs of where it came from? What do you have going on for crankcase ventilation?

[LS1ow]

All joking aside, check under the hood for signs of where it came from? What do you have going on for crankcase ventilation?

-driver side valve cover vent is capped
-pass valve cover rear vent is capped
-pass valve cover front vent ran to throttle body
-LS6 Valley cover vent ran to catch can
-Catch can to intake

[MDSheds_SS]

Jeff had oil in his trailer too... but that was leaking from the tray of sausage and peppers he stole from the grill.

[LTb1ow]

-driver side valve cover vent is capped
-pass valve cover rear vent is capped
-pass valve cover front vent ran to throttle body
-LS6 Valley cover vent ran to catch can
-Catch can to intake

You need more.

[KirkEvil]

-driver side valve cover vent is capped
-pass valve cover rear vent is capped
-pass valve cover front vent ran to throttle body
-LS6 Valley cover vent ran to catch can
-Catch can to intake

You need more.

you should at least run a line from the driver valve cover to tee into the line that goes to the TB for fresh air. Valve covers are a high point for evaporation and then condense in the stock baffles to make banana pudding if left stagnant. Its not the kind of banana pudding that keeps you regular either.

[LS1ow]

you should at least run a line from the driver valve cover to tee into the line that goes to the TB for fresh air. Valve covers are a high point for evaporation and then condense in the stock baffles to make banana pudding if left stagnant. Its not the kind of banana pudding that keeps you regular either.



tossing a T in line is no problem.

what would be next step further than the at least ?

[sweetbmxrider]

You need to get under that car, it was definitely dripping off of the pan. Find that source!

[KirkEvil]

what would be next step further than the at least ?

this

Find that source!

[LS1ow]

this

oh. We are concluding that not enough crank case venting is the cause?:nick:

[The_Bishop]

It's possibly a factor, especially if rings were pepper'd for copious spray and said spray was used.

[LS1ow]

still have not crawled under car to further diag. do not want to do rear main.

[LS1ow]

last night got a chance to throw the car on jack stands and check it out.

Backed the car up enough to toss some wood on the ground to drive up on for jack clearance, did not notice any oil on the ground.

Under the car i did find a decent amount of oil. I circled it in the pics.

-As expected and feared, decent amount at the seam were the oil pan and trans meet up.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49146511836_285311e869_c.jpg

-Super Blurry pic, but there was a decent sized bead(?) of oil on the pass rear of the pan, right at the corner.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49146511811_bbd5ef0010_c.jpg

-this one confused me a bit, but the starter has some beads of oil on it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49146018593_37d34e1ebc_c.jpg

-The bottom of the oil filter itself also had a nice bead of oil on it.

I have had a problem with this filter before as well. Before the rental when i backed the car out of the garage for the first time since upgrades, there was a trail off drips of oil. Pulled it back in and noticed it was coming off the bottom of the oil filter. I checked if it was tight, and i was able to turn it a half turn or more by hand with barely a grasp on it. Now there is no way i didnt tighten the oil filter all the way. I tried to tighten it again by hand tonight and i couldnt. Its a K&N oil filter, which i use just for how easy it is to change on and off with the nut built in to the end. Are K&N oil filters crappy?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49146511776_612e1cedf6_c.jpg

I cleaned everything up with brakeclean and a rag, and tossed some cardboard under it to collect any drips and track down were its coming from.

[sweetbmxrider]

The oil is running down obviously, seeing it on the starter is no surprise. You really have to try looking up higher or a mirror from above to find the sources. I would look at the valve cover gaskets and wonder what the rear main is doing. Or you just live with it till the turbo build!

[LS1ow]

So its been 4 days since putting the car up on stands and giving it a chance to drip.

Car has not been started at all, just sitting on jackstands(front only) and there is a decent amount of fresh oil on the bottom of the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49168331486_70c9884449_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49167851903_d3a03f917f_c.jpg

[wretched73]

Stupid question, Did you wipe off the dripping oil before putting it on jack stands and waiting for more to appear?

Check around where the timing cover, oil pan and where the rear cover meet. They are prone to leak on LS motors because they all have to be in perfect alignment

[LS1ow]

Stupid question, Did you wipe off the dripping oil before putting it on jack stands and waiting for more to appear?

Check around where the timing cover, oil pan and where the rear cover meet. They are prone to leak on LS motors because they all have to be in perfect alignment

ya, previous post states cleaned everything with brakeclean and wiped.


tracing oil leaks are hard when i painted everything black lol wont make that mistake again

[LTb1ow]

Just live with oil leaks and add oil when needed.

[sweetbmxrider]

Its probably the rear main and its whipped around the bell housing so its slowly running back down via gravity to these low points. I would still try to confirm the back of the valve covers and the oil pressure sensor aren't leaking. Maybe yank the intake for inspection?

[LS1ow]

soon.

[LTb1ow]

soon.

dibs on the race wheels/tires.

[LS1ow]

whales are so last year. :wink:

https://findpoly.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/UnicornHunting-800x533.jpg

[LTb1ow]

You're gonna need more than that tin can.

[LS1ow]

i got something for you.

[LTb1ow]

What size wastegate did you get?