Not this again.

[LS1ow]

twin 38mm

[wretched73]

I can see the head lines on LS1 tech now

[LS1ow]

I can see the head lines on LS1 tech now

“New Jersey man sends first LS motor into orbit”

[wretched73]

"LS1 for sale, low miles, never abused."

"Aftermarket window in block- rare!"

Let me know when you want to buy my gen 4 5.3, ~215k miles on it, which means the bearings and ring gaps are perfectly seasoned for boost

[BonzoHansen]

https://media.giphy.com/media/uup7PcjFpnGAE/giphy.gif

[LS1ow]

Im gunna do my best to send the motor as high into the sky as i can this year while it still being attached to the car

[wretched73]

Serious note, who's kit did you end up with?

[LS1ow]

Serious note, who's kit did you end up with?

none. car sits exact same way it did in November besides a few small changes.


I aint scared of Paul Bunyan or his blue unicorn

[LTb1ow]

i am disappoint.

[LS1ow]

Anyone have/have access to the alignment tool to do a rear main on the LS?

[PolarBear]

I just let the seal kind of find it's center on the crank and the oil pan installed before having any of the rear cover fasteners put in. I would put the screws in like 90% of the way, install the pan, make sure everything lined up, then slowly set the screws to the surface, then torqued.

[LS1ow]

I just let the seal kind of find it's center on the crank and the oil pan installed before having any of the rear cover fasteners put in. I would put the screws in like 90% of the way, install the pan, make sure everything lined up, then slowly set the screws to the surface, then torqued.

Pan is on and not being removed. Will be doing this in car not on a stand sadly lol

[PolarBear]

Should still work like I suggested, unless you're not pulling the rear cover at all

[V]

I did my rear main on the gto when I did the clutch. Motor was still in car. I changed out the whole rear cover with a new seal already in it. Only have to remove the rear two pan bolts, not drop the pan. All the info I found online said that was the best way. No issues since so I'd recommend it. The perimeter bolts get tightened first, then the 2 pan bolts last. I think I did a drop of rtv at the corners of block/pan/cover.

[wretched73]

Like these guys, I didn't use any of the alignment tools and my motor was on a stand.

I followed whatever directions were in this book- https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-LS-Engines-Design/dp/193249460X

Which I can dig out tonight and find their instructions for lining everything up, if you're interested.

[LS1ow]

I did my rear main on the gto when I did the clutch. Motor was still in car. I changed out the whole rear cover with a new seal already in it. Only have to remove the rear two pan bolts, not drop the pan. All the info I found online said that was the best way. No issues since so I'd recommend it. The perimeter bolts get tightened first, then the 2 pan bolts last. I think I did a drop of rtv at the corners of block/pan/cover.

recall what brand it was?

[MyFirstZ]

Dont want to do the entire cover ? they come preinstalled and not much more than a seal

but i do have the tool from saccity corvette or whatever it was

[LS1ow]

Dont want to do the entire cover ? they come preinstalled and not much more than a seal

but i do have the tool from saccity corvette or whatever it was

i didnt know they came installed in the cover lol i will go with that

[MyFirstZ]

yea, they come with the metal cover, perimeter gasket, all the bolts and the rear main installed. Think it was like 60-80$ at whatever price level they gave it to me at.

Usually in stock to at most GM dealers since it is still used

[V]

I got my rear cover from some gm dealer on ebay I believe. And yes, like he said the ear main seal is preinstalled.

[LS1ow]

Ill give chevy a call guys, thanks !

[PolarBear]

The seal is really easy to change though, lol. It took me minutes once the cover was off. Getting the old one out was the most "difficult" part

[LS1ow]

So as you guys know, finally bit the bullet and started to do the rear main.

Thursday night i pulled the starter, the driveshaft, and started to drain the trans out to make it a bit easier to handle. plus, time to change the fluid anyway. This is were the fun begins.... :facepalm:

Let the tailshaft drain out into one of them oil change drip pan, after that stopped it slid back under the car and started to pull the pan bolts. Slid a large plastic tub under it to catch everything. Took out the final pan bolt and guided the pan down into the tub, getting late anyway so im gunna let it drain over night.

Fast forward to last night after sitting in traffic for 40 mins on my normal 7 min commute home bc people forget how to drive in the rain... trans fluid is EVERYWHERE. Coming out both sides of the car, coming out the back of the car, a damn mess. I toss some pig mats on the ground and flop myself under the car. Theres a minimal amount of fluid in the container... damn thing had a crack in the corner i didnt notice. :facepalm::facepalm:

Cleanup took about 30 mins. A garbage bag worth of pig mats, 3 cans of brakeclean, and a roll of paper towels later, back under the car to get going.

o2 sensors and wideband out to prob, dip stick out no prob, on to the torque converter bolts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49630095893_c4c5fcd2de_c.jpg

YEAH. NOT GOOD. 2 of the 3 were like this. Finger tight. i honestly think the only thing that kept them in was they didnt have room to back out completely. One was tight as it should be.

Im not really sure what happened here. They bolts are ARP, and there is still some of ARP lube on the threads too. Kirk referenced the extension required to tighten them could have effected the torque. Im going to grab a new set just to be safe.

Moving past that, i started on the trans bolts. Removed the trans mount X member bolts, trans dropped about 1/4 inch... thanks solid mounts, this is gunna be fun.

Slid trans jack under, going to tackle this tomorrow. (today)

[The_Bishop]

To be honest, I always blue-locktite torque converter bolts on top of proper torque to avoid this sort of nonsense. There's a ton of vibration and torque on those particular bolts.

[sweetbmxrider]

Did it egg out the flexplate?

[LS1ow]

To be honest, I always blue-locktite torque converter bolts on top of proper torque to avoid this sort of nonsense. There's a ton of vibration and torque on those particular bolts.

Will be using some when reinstall happens.

Did it egg out the flexplate?

Going to opt for a new plate anyway, I would imagine it did so rather safe than sorry

[LS1ow]

Boy was that a disaster.

As stated in previous update, the solid trans mounts were NOT our friends here.

The 2 on the passenger side, near the starter were no problem.

Moved up to the next bolt, about 1 o'clock position, and turns out, nothing there. Was going off a pic of a 60e bell to remember bolt positioning, i could have swore there was a bolt there. but i guess not.

I know the 60e has 8 bolts that hold it it, i already got 2 out, and there was 6 remaining, so i assume this is normal and i just forgot? (fast forward to the end of the job, there was no paint missing from that bolt hole on the trans, so no bolt was ever put in at any point. The other holes that had bolts in them, all had paint removed from install & removal of bolts)

Moving on, The top center bolt was really not much of an issue, a little fighting with the swivel joint but thats it. some electricial tape on the joint and it was out in no time.

On to the bolt at the 10 o' clock spot, this was the first real pain. fought with it for a while, but with the solid engine mounts not allowing the trans to droop at all, it was a major pain. After fighting for about 30 mins, we ended up pulling the driver side coils and valve covers off. That gave my buddy enough room to reach down behind the head and guide the swivel on. Broke it loose with the ratched from the bottom, and he turned it out by hand from the top.

3 to go.

The one below the dowel on the driver side proved to be nearly as much of a pain as the previous, and prob the most frustrating. It was a clear as day shot at it, just to shallow of a space to fit anything. Couldnt get the socket with the swivel on. couldnt get the socket with the ratchet directly attached to it on. Got a box wrench on, but didnt have enough meat so it slid off. large flap of skin missing from my finger due to that btw.

Ended up using a larger pry bar to massage the inside of the trans tunnel enough to fit the extension and swivel on. broke her loose and we were on our way.

Pulled the final bottom 2 out with no theatrics. Trans slid off the motor no problem. quick flick of the wrist with the pry bar and we were on the transjack(thanks kirk)

cleaned up for the day and headed home. We will see what today brings.

[KirkEvil]

Sounds miserable. For those top bolts I always committed to pulling the intake right from the start and laying on top of the valley. You can pretty much reach everything from there with a box wrench.

How oveled are converter bolt holes in the flexplate?

[LS1ow]

Sounds miserable. For those top bolts I always committed to pulling the intake right from the start and laying on top of the valley. You can pretty much reach everything from there with a box wrench.

How oveled are converter bolt holes in the flexplate?

pulling intake may be how it goes back together. well see what the next few days entail.

Unsure of flex plate, going to see today. Worth dropping the coin for a better than stock unit??

[KirkEvil]

pulling intake may be how it goes back together. well see what the next few days entail.

Unsure of flex plate, going to see today. Worth dropping the coin for a better than stock unit??

Worth your peace of mind, maybe

Knowing you have a shiny billet anodized orange reactor plate man candy in a place no one sees... Pricele... Actually still not worth it

[wretched73]

On the truck forums, guys run 600+ WHP on stock flex plates. I would think you'd be fine.

Would a 60e and 80e flexplate be the same? I wouldn't want to buy a nice billet piece then find out when you upgrade the trans that you need a different flex plate

[KirkEvil]

60e flexplate only has 3 bolt holes for converter. 80e plate has 6 holes to use 3 or 6 bolt converters. Flexplate sizing and spacing is the same, fit difference is between the trans is made up by the converter housing

[LS1ow]

figured as much. i wasnt sure if getting a fancy flex plate would yield same results as getting a fancy flywheel on a stick.

will just opt for new gm unit

[LS1ow]

Does ARP offer Bellhousing to block bolts? I dont want to reuse the ICT billet ones i have.

[KirkEvil]

You can buy any bolt from them as a build your own kit off their website

[MyFirstZ]

When I pull my trans with the solid motor mounts i loosen the three subframe bolts and let it come down a little bit. I know I'm not auto but it helps tremendously. For me it also helps getting off the input shaft and clearing the clutchs

[LS1ow]

When I pull my trans with the solid motor mounts i loosen the three subframe bolts and let it come down a little bit. I know I'm not auto but it helps tremendously. For me it also helps getting off the input shaft and clearing the clutchs

in theory, i should be able to do this and not have it effect the alignment at all, right?

[LTb1ow]

in theory, i should be able to do this and not have it effect the alignment at all, right?

In theory.

I just run the two side bolts on each side of my trans.

[LS1ow]

In theory.

I just run the two side bolts on each side of my trans.

nah i can deff get the bottom 2 in as well.

[LS1ow]

rear main from GM is here. Huzzah

[LS1ow]

All this crap going on kinda put a damper on my motivation to do this.

Long story short, i was looking at the little bit of trans fluid left in the bottom of the container that leaked everywhere, and noticed it was awfully metallic whenever the work light shined on it lol so a phone call was made.

After discussing a few options, coming up with a nice deal that involved a trans, greenbacks, a few hour ride, and some bootlegging(thanks for PA closing liquor stores) the day after the state of PA shut down, i headed out there and ended up with one of these.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716167453_c88df748c3_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716708436_0b07141ab4_c.jpg

Level 3 Invincible, good for 900hp

You have to remove the Bell and tailshaft housing to retain them and swap onto the new unit. This is also the answer to why i was looking for a T50 Torx Plus socket on IG and FB last week, about 70 people messaged me and said "ya i got it" and then sent me a pic of a regular Torx. Ended up just ordering a set from napa. Got them next day, did the job.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716291203_9c1c1d7014_c.jpg

Will i ever use them again? hopefully not, but for anyone that needs them ever, Mick has. I went threw 2-3 torx bolts before calling GM to see what it is. Heres a pic of the difference.

https://www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/WebRoot/StoreNL/Shops/457210838/5966/60BF/E224/F1EC/94F2/C0A8/29BF/692A/Torx_Torx_Plus.jpg

Since i messed up a few Torx, i figured the bolts prob arent in the best shape to be reused. so i ordered a new set from GM, and these joints showed up...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716291248_58fc1a3d67_c.jpg

What in the blue **** are those? They are "mortorq" bolts... and we are waiting for my snap on guy to get me a size 4. i guess GM decided a Torq Plus wasnt oddball enough, so we made the bolt head a pin wheel.

[V]

Just jam a 3/8 square drive in that bitch

[LTb1ow]

ohhhh yeaaa

[LS1ow]

Anyone know the torque specs for both the Bell housing to the trans as well as the tailshaft housing to the trans?

[LS1ow]

With crankcase ventilation being a potential issue, addressing the catch can situation was on the short list of things to do.

Rather than just run some Napa fuel hose as lines, i opted to spend some coin and up the quality. Opted for the -8an stuff off mighty mouses recommendation. Seems overkill, but whatever.

Ordered up some an bungs to weld on, some of then AN to pushlok fittings, and some pushlok hose.

On the passenger side i am cutting of the factory nipple and placing the bung there, on the driver side i will be drill into the valve cover and welding there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49770070766_96234f9772_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49770395107_946f9cc501_c.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Did you buy a can?

[LS1ow]

Did you buy a can?

ive had one, just upgrading the lines and location of the bung.

[KirkEvil]

Is there enough room between that fitting and injectors for an elbow?

[LS1ow]

Is there enough room between that fitting and injectors for an elbow?

Surprisingly i thought of this, but yes. barely:lol:

[LS1ow]

AN bungs added to valve covers

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49776879516_25af98151d_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49776346298_283252b742_c.jpg

also deleted the second nipple on the pass side cover, and the nipple on rear of the driverside cover. Holes were pretty small, so they were just welded and welded until full, then smoothed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49777208282_c027c024b7_c.jpg

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iQBw5n]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49776879501_3291cd94bf_c.jpg

and perhaps most importantly, added a bung for trans temp on the 60e.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49776879506_9e1716855e_c.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Is it just temp or does it sense friction material/imminent doom?

[wretched73]

Is it just temp or does it sense friction material/imminent doom?

Its a 60, it always senses imminent doom

[MDSheds_SS]

can’t wait to see that 60E dip into the 9s... doesn’t matter what the bung reads... as longs as that slip reads 9.xx

[LS1ow]

can’t wait to see that 60E dip into the 9s... doesn’t matter what the bung reads... as longs as that slip reads 9.xx

if i lay off the quarantine snacks and shove some broccoli in my mouth maybe itll read 9.8x

[LTb1ow]

Better hope you can get it to 60ft 1.2-1.3 area

[LS1ow]

Better hope you can get it to 60ft 1.2-1.3 area

Went 1.40 not spraying out the hole, so if need be ill have to turn off the progressive

[LTb1ow]

I am assuming you are at the limits RPM/jet size wise, so gotta make up that time in the 60.

Or blow the 10 bolt.

[LS1ow]

I am assuming you are at the limits RPM/jet size wise, so gotta make up that time in the 60.

Or blow the 10 bolt.

RPMs yes. Jets wise im at the limit where i think i can run it safely for a long period of time. I think it'll be fine at 200, but something will let go eventually. But im not financially prepped for that yet. Also, the dude who designed the cam told me to stay at 150. Not sure why, but oh well.

[LS1ow]

Redid the valve covers in VHT wrinkle black after welding on the bungs, love this finish.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785185627_2c55eec8e2_c.jpg

Pic looks much closer than it really is, but there is room for a hose to pass by the injector on the pass side.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49784862296_470e697d49_c.jpg

and room right under the fuel line feed on the driver side. These hoses are going to go to a Y manifold and then into the TB. Just cant install all the hoses and stuff now bc i cant get to the top trans bolts with the valve covers on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49784325078_6615e3b73f_c.jpg

Also upgraded the factory steam vent set up to black AN set up to match the rest of the stuff on the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785185852_bf30dc03f3_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785185822_904e6a42e6_c.jpg

unfortunately the AN line from the vent to rad is smaller than the bung on the rad. So for now i have to run a reducer off the rad. Ordered up the correct barb to weld on the rad, will tackle that next time the rad is out. The reducer is fine for now.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49784862341_d37874bf2f_c.jpg

[LS1ow]

Found some beautiful spin art thanks to ARP lube on the flex plate. love me some art.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49784862471_7388b6dd27_c.jpg

Pulled flex plate to see rear main, no real mess. Deff a film off oil all over it. and you can see that notch at the bottom of the seal itself is filled with oil. Not a mess of oil, but then again the car hasnt ran since December or so.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49784862541_7ef4c13340_c.jpg

Currently waiting for a new flex plate, then reinstall shenz

[sweetbmxrider]

Loving the -an work

[PolarBear]

What make are those head steam tube adapters?

[KirkEvil]

What make are those head steam tube adapters?

FASSTER seller on ebay. I go to him for all my **** and the anode finish holds up really well to wrenches compared to general summit/jegs fittings

[LS1ow]

FASSTER seller on ebay. I go to him for all my **** and the anode finish holds up really well to wrenches compared to general summit/jegs fittings

Yup, FASSTER LLC, I go to him for all my stuff as well. Off Kirks recommendation. He’s great to work with and does custom lengths and what not for whatever you need.

[PolarBear]

Thanks. I will look into them

[LS1ow]

huzzah, new flex plate from GM has arrived.

[LTb1ow]

Is it done?

[LS1ow]

Is it done?

not yet, been messing with the skittle so can sell that

[LS1ow]

skittle has been sold. back to working on the Hulkbuster

[LTb1ow]

How fast where you ramping your nitrous in?

[LS1ow]

How fast where you ramping your nitrous in?

1 second ramp in once it is above 4k rpm was the fastest we got to i believe.

[LTb1ow]

Better get that ramp faster, sub half a sec area

[LS1ow]

costly mistake is costly.

Got the trans back, started tossing things back in. like the driveshaft and starter. only to roll over and get stabbed in the back by something.

what was that something? the an fittings for the trans cooler lines. completely forgot to put them on before the trans went up.

[KirkEvil]

Hole saw the tunnel. You wont.

[LTb1ow]

Sawzall the tunnel off for a convenient trans trap door mod.

[sweetbmxrider]

Feel like you can do it in car.



After you sawzall the trans off

[LS1ow]

Gunna give it a go tomorrow.

We will see how this goes.

[LS1ow]

Gave it a go tonight.

Trans was pulled and back in in about an hour.

[LS1ow]

fall is coming.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50032948353_aebff66948.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

That sickle needs moar ‘Murica

[LTb1ow]

Given current situation, I will just tell you you won.

[LS1ow]

ya we are pretty screwed huh

[Blackbirdws6]

One of two options left. "One last ride"

https://i.gifer.com/KdnW.gif

[wretched73]

Given current situation, I will just tell you you won.

After all that work, no chance the saga ends like this

[sweetbmxrider]

With all the durty trucks in the fleet, a trip to Cecil sounds like the way to go

[LTb1ow]

After all that work, no chance the saga ends like this

With all the durty trucks in the fleet, a trip to Cecil sounds like the way to go

Oddly was not talking about Atco closing, but, guess I will see what the next couple months hold for me.

[Blackbirdws6]

Atco posted their schedule through November and acknowledged all the inquires but provided no response.

[LS1ow]

this is prob more fitting.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043444056_c04fd3ffdb_z.jpg

[wretched73]

Oddly was not talking about Atco closing, but, guess I will see what the next couple months hold for me.

I've got enough parts in my garage to rebuild your car 3x over if it blows up

[sweetbmxrider]

:rofl: beggzzzzz

[LTb1ow]

After all that work, no chance the saga ends like this

https://i.imgflip.com/234t8c.jpg

[LS1ow]

so, some interesting stuff.

been putting more time into the car the past 2 weeks trying to get it out on the streets. So after tacking a few odds and ends yesterday it was time to run the car through the gears and get to setting it up.

tried to do this last week, but i didnt realize the grommet for the trans dipstick wasnt reinstalled, so lets just say there was a lil mess.

So after tackling that, followed instructions and filled the trans with 6qts, and with the rear on jackstands, started the car. The car fired right up, and i went to add an addition 6qt as it says. while doing this i notice the wheels were turning. wtf.

shut car down and started to look into things. Cut to the chase and just popped the shift cable off and put the trans into N by hand via the arm that goes into the trans. After verifying it is in the N position, 2 clicks back. Start in park, 1 click into R, and 1 more click into N.

Started the car, wheels are still turning. And idk if maybe its an illusion just due to the lettering on the tires, but it looks like they are going pretty quick.

any ideas on what could be the issue here? ive even seen some people say this is normal. idk man.

[wretched73]

The lettering definitely made them look like they were spinning faster. How much effort does it take to stop the tires? You should be able to hold them with one hand easily.

I obviously would stop the tires then try to hold it with one hand. I don't think this is a real issue. Every automatic vehicle I've worked on will spin the rear tires in neutral if the tires are off the ground.

[LS1ow]

Guess my old 60e was just on its last leg bc it never ever did that before lol


Car is on the ground, indeed does not roll while in N

[IROCZman15]

I had never thought to check/try this
So I didn’t have a reply for you about it id was normal or not. I might have my car up in the air today and might give it a try just for curiosity sakes

[IROCZman15]

I was curious so i checked this the other day when swapping my rear wheels over. my car does indeed spin both rear tires while running but with the trans in neutral. it is a slow spin, not enough to move the speedometer much at all. I'd say about 1 full revolution per 2 seconds as en estimate?

[LS1ow]

https://tenor.com/view/undertaker-coffin-wrestling-wwe-wrestle-mania-gif-5289384

[sweetbmxrider]

https://tenor.com/view/undertaker-coffin-wrestling-wwe-wrestle-mania-gif-5289384

https://media1.tenor.com/images/0b29089d9a0504913b30a463a78fc66a/tenor.gif?itemid=5289384

[LS1ow]

all things must come to an end.

Officially sold the car over the weekend.

[sweetbmxrider]

:bertstare:

[LS1ow]

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e4/b0/61/e4b061fb8ac0539cd453f6c921bb01f7.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

https://images.paramount.tech/uri/mgid:arc:imageassetref:comedycentral.com:2012de62-c562-4f9f-aaa2-85c292339250?quality=0.7&gen=ntrn&legacyStatusCode=true

[wretched73]

What're you replacing it with?

LT1 vert?

[LS1ow]

What're you replacing it with?

LT1 vert?

nah, either a G8 or a SS

https://eastbayexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/15/2021/02/https3A2F2Fmedia1.fdncms.com2Feastbayexpress2Fimag er2Fu2Foriginal2F111709492Fsideshows.png

[V]

caprice PPV

[Joey D]

nah, either a G8 or a SS

https://eastbayexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/15/2021/02/https3A2F2Fmedia1.fdncms.com2Feastbayexpress2Fimag er2Fu2Foriginal2F111709492Fsideshows.png

Ive owner 2 ss's. 2016 and 2017. One stock and one with lsa, both stick. Cant go wrong with stock or modified. Really a great great car. Have had 38 cars total in life. SS has a special place in my heart. Currently have a trx cause its lot more room.

[ThoR294]

Lsa SS is the move

[sweetbmxrider]

G37 is bettaaaaa

[qwikz28]

Looking forward to the Bergen County sideshows

[townsend]

had a g8 gxp, just get an SS, the g8 build quality was poop