Not this again.

[Blackbirdws6]

Keep it going!

[Jersey Mike]

Came for the hax0rs. What is all this progress!?!

[LS1ow]

Any tips for torquing balancer bolt down without just having the crank spin?

[Blackbirdws6]

Can you sneak a couple bolts in the crank and wedge a pry bar in there to lock it down against the stand?

[LS1ow]

Can you sneak a couple bolts in the crank and wedge a pry bar in there to lock it down against the stand?

My man.


Engine already off stand though and on the bench so I can do the stuff I couldn't do while on the stand.(Rear cover and Install flexplate) maybe go the same method but have a buddy hold the bar?

[Blackbirdws6]

My man.


Engine already off stand though and on the bench so I can do the stuff I couldn't do while on the stand.(Rear cover and Install flexplate) maybe go the same method but have a buddy hold the bar?

Make sure to bring a Smash for that party.

[KirkEvil]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/36669732336_9f8456c849_z.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170903_150231_zpsq3912eqa.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170906_194059_zpszo3ayi2v.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170906_194049_zps86ejp6xk.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170906_193840_zpssoktwbpt.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170906_193827_zpsbc7c1kgj.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170906_193833_zpssdbicbxb.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170904_124305_zpsdf1usype.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170918_185520_zps0uuo3p0r.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170918_185255_zps6lm84mqq.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/20170920_200036_zpsdaqnfiz6.jpg

[LS1ow]

dead bearded smiley face !


So this is what lies benieth

[KirkEvil]

Is that a dead bearded smiley face ?!

Sir, your spleen is not long for this world

[LTb1ow]

Looks super professional

[Blackbirdws6]

Budget for a Hans

[LS1ow]

10 bolt explosion point to save my insides

[sweetbmxrider]

When do dead spleen decals launch?????

[LS1ow]

Make sure to bring a Smash for that party.

Good News: Ended up being an adult about things for once and bought the tool that bolts to the block and locks the flexplate.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/5125FS2mBxL.jpg

Bad News: Wont be here tills weds, so motor install likely delayed till next weekend.

[Blackbirdws6]

Good News: Ended up being an adult about things for once and bought the tool that bolts to the block and locks the flexplate.

Bad News: Wont be here tills weds, so motor install likely delayed till next weekend.

Look at you being an adult!

[LS1ow]

Maybe one of you can shed some light on this.

The torque specs for the motor mount through bolts(ones that run threw the clamshell and hold the motor to the K member) have some confusing tq specs listed.

Engine Mount Through Bolt Nut - 59 ft. lbs

Engine Mount Through Bolt Screw - 70 ft. lbs

This confuses me bc they just thread into eachother... so i do hold the nut with a wrench and torque the screw to 70ft, and then hold the screw head with a wrench and tighten the nut to 59ft?

[LTb1ow]

Just ratchet strap the balancer while you toruq the bolt. Dont be a panzy

[sweetbmxrider]

You tighten it till its tight and then you remove it after #7 develops an unintended inspection hole at racewars.

[LTb1ow]

I don't think we have ever torqued a single one of those stupid bolts. Always been torque to tight.

[LS1ow]

Ran into some issues today trying to get it all done.

1. Flexplate does not line up with the crank threads, so either I have a wrong flexplate, or I have another Frankenstein motor on my hands.

2. ARP bolt kit for flex plate(134-2201) doesnt thread in to nicely. They are actually kinda loose in the hole. Enough to move it with your fingers. I'll try to get a video

[LS1ow]

bolt situation sorted out. Accidentally ordered pressure plate bolts, not flex plate.

[LS1ow]

pic of said mismatch

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37220314786_7aae4b2563_z.jpg

[The_Bishop]

My vote is for 'wrong flexplate'. From that pic, none of the holes line up.

[LS1ow]

My vote is for 'wrong flexplate'. From that pic, none of the holes line up.

Peep the other thread, looks like my bad luck comes in waves

[LS1ow]

Alternator Bolt Repair:

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=68091

Flex Plate Issue:

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=68080

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

This might be a record of how many threads for one build :lol:

[BonzoHansen]

lets just hope it doesn't end up dying in a shore parking lot for years with an outrageous price tag.

[PolarBear]

lets just hope it doesn't end up dying in a shore parking lot for years with an outrageous price tag.

:kneeslap:

[LS1ow]

This might be a record of how many threads for one build :lol:

Hopefully the final one is the Racewarz2k17 media thread:bertstare:

[sweetbmxrider]

#BestBurnoutBoxWheelie

[LS1ow]

If all goes well, which it prob wont, today is the day the engine meets the subframe for the first time.

Then i will try to figure out how to go about getting the engine in the car best. I have 2 dollys i planned on using originally, but i feel like that might be to low? I feel like the tubular k kinda makes this a pain in the ass. Can just throw a jack and jack stands on it where ever.

Maybe better off dolly under trans a roll it under with the wheels on ?

[sweetbmxrider]

If you can get it high enough, I like the last approach personally.

[LS1ow]

If you can get it high enough, I like the last approach personally.

Get the chassis high enough ? Shouldn't be an issue. Only thing I'm worried about if I do it with the wheels on is not having side to side movement to line up

[Blackbirdws6]

I have metal wheel dollies if you want to borrow. Put a wooden dolly under the trans and roll all around.

[LS1ow]

I have metal wheel dollies if you want to borrow. Put a wooden dolly under the trans and roll all around.

How tall is said dolly? Mine is only like 4" off the ground, I think that's to low to lower the chassis down to. Once I bolt up the K member my crane won't be able to lift the engine trans and chassis all together. Well prob could, but I don't want to blow it apart

[MDSheds_SS]

http://a65.tinypic.com/25k26af.jpg

This is what I used, put a piece of carpet on top so you don't scratch the k member. I also had a lift tho. Sorry if this doesn't help just an idea.

[sweetbmxrider]

Crane or chain fall?

[LS1ow]

Took Another L from the parts store yesterday, bolts i got are to short. Ran to lowes yestersday to grab some Grade 8s and they didnt have any. Seach continues today.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/37123958600_5a12b4f37e_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4500/23528656168_ae00e0a3d8_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

And due to having the wrong bolt, this is the current state.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37123962220_96db1f79fd_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/36671604664_cd7a63cfc8_z.jpg

[MDSheds_SS]

Fastenal always has what i need. They had grade 12.9s in stock for my torque arm bolts.

[wretched73]

Well, if it wasn't for bad luck, you'd have no luck.

[LTb1ow]

I just used three furniture dollies, two under the K area and one under trans. Rolled it under car, dropped car on it, broke dollies, didn't care.

Also, make sure you attach trans cooler lines prior to sliding under car.

[sweetbmxrider]

Did you paint over your trans level?????

[LS1ow]

Did you paint over your trans level?????

CC: KirkEvil, Trans painter

[wretched73]

I just used three furniture dollies, two under the K area and one under trans. Rolled it under car, dropped car on it, broke dollies, didn't care.

Also, make sure you attach trans cooler lines prior to sliding under car.

Lay on ground, on your back. Place motor and trans on chest. Scoot under car. One arm bench press engine assembly into place. Torque to spec. (Tight is tight, too tight is broke).

[LS1ow]

(Tight is tight, too tight is broke).

This entire build summed up

[LS1ow]

Planned on stopping at fastenal on my way home from work to grab the bolts but was thrown another curveball. Gf got in accident so attended to that all day. Glad she is okay.

[qwikz28]

Planned on stopping at fastenal on my way home from work to grab the bolts but was thrown another curveball. Gf got in accident so attended to that all day. Glad she is okay.

Good to hear she's okay.

The Fastenal in Rutherford moved behind the Lowes, by the way.

[LS1ow]

Good to hear she's okay.

The Fastenal in Rutherford moved behind the Lowes, by the way.

Yeap, and they were only open till 5 :( and closed on weekends ! not really sure what my next step is. I dont want to wait till monday and lose another 2 days

[Featherburner]

Yeap, and they were only open till 5 :( and closed on weekends ! not really sure what my next step is. I dont want to wait till monday and lose another 2 daysHop online, order, then...road trip. https://www.mcmaster.com/ Just make sure you select "Will-call" instead of shipping.

[Jersey Mike]

If you're that concerned about losing 2 days and consider this critical path, then use something other than Grade 8 for the purposes of marrying everything else. You can swap in the Grade 8 stuff when McMaster opens up on Monday.

That way, you can mock everything up, marry the trans and motor, torque it all down except the motor mount thru bolts and just replace those before putting the powertrain back in the car...


...or just wait 2 days and enjoy the weekend :shrug:

[LS1ow]

If you're that concerned about losing 2 days and consider this critical path, then use something other than Grade 8 for the purposes of marrying everything else. You can swap in the Grade 8 stuff when McMaster opens up on Monday.

That way, you can mock everything up, marry the trans and motor, torque it all down except the motor mount thru bolts and just replace those before putting the powertrain back in the car...


...or just wait 2 days and enjoy the weekend :shrug:

If i could find something other than grade 8 that size i would, longest bolts lowes had by me were about 2" shorter than the ones i got. I have a home depot on my way home from work so i will stop there.

[MDSheds_SS]

Might get killed for this but just thinking outside the box...HD has threaded rod, cut it to length... if your just looking for something to stick in there until you get bolts. Wouldn't leave it in there but it will get the job done for now.

[wretched73]

Might get killed for this but just thinking outside the box...HD has threaded rod, cut it to length... if your just looking for something to stick in there for until you get bolts. Wouldn't leave it in there but it will get the job done for now.

Only ideas that are stupid are ones that won't work. This sounds like it would work fine for mock up

[LS1ow]

Didn't have the right size bolts m, so I went with the method above. Motor is fitted to the K currently, after dinner will mate the trans if I don't eat myself to death

[PolarBear]

You DO NOT NEED grade 8 bolts for that, grade 3 is fine, or even 5.

[LS1ow]

You DO NOT NEED grade 8 bolts for that, grade 3 is fine, or even 5.

Even with solid motor mounts? You don't think it'll bend em?

[wretched73]

Even with solid motor mounts? You don't think it'll bend em?

The higher the grade the higher the tensile so more chance a grade 8 will shear off right?

Where's the engineer at when you need him??

[The_Bishop]

I sure as hell wouldn't fly with threaded rod there, though. Threaded rod is the epitome of something loaded with stress risers and is usually garbage grade unless otherwise noted, then it's usually $$.

[LS1ow]

I sure as hell wouldn't fly with threaded rod there, though. Threaded rod is the epitome of something loaded with stress risers and is usually garbage grade unless otherwise noted, then it's usually $$.

It's not permanent, it was just to get it in place. Tmmr I should have time to run to fastenal and grab some final hardware

[The_Bishop]

I figured you would, I was referring to the 'any bolt will do' from Polar Bear.

[qwikz28]

I thought the idea here is to run a stronger bolt that you could torque down harder to avoid the risk of it rattling loose over time?

[PolarBear]

The higher the grade the higher the tensile so more chance a grade 8 will shear off right?

Where's the engineer at when you need him??

People automatically think grade 8 is "better", but you don't usually need that for most applications. In some places you actually want the softer bolt

I figured you would, I was referring to the 'any bolt will do' from Polar Bear.

That's not what I said at all. Actually a pin would probably be better because it wouldn't have any stress risers since the through bolt in all the engine mounts that I have seen, have some of the thread in the shear point in the mount.

I thought the idea here is to run a stronger bolt that you could torque down harder to avoid the risk of it rattling loose over time?

In this application, stretch should be stretch, but I am not an engineer. If you're worried about the fastener backing off from vibration you need some sort of interference to prevent it, no amount of stretch is going to stop that in a high vibration environment. Watch to see how much a fastener will spin when it is under high vibration
https://youtu.be/IKwWu2w1gGk?t=2m30s

[LS1ow]

I worked 8-5 Mondays, so fortunately last night i checked fastenal's hours and saw they open 7-5, so i left for work a few mins early and stopped in. Grabbed a pack of Grade 8s and some washers due to the stock bolts having a fanged head.

Final bolt down this evening !

[The_Bishop]

That's not what I said at all. Actually a pin would probably be better because it wouldn't have any stress risers since the through bolt in all the engine mounts that I have seen, have some of the thread in the shear point in the mount.

Then I misunderstood. I thought you were implying that the threaded rod would be OK.

One benefit of higher quality fasteners is the threads are usually 'rolled' and not cut. Leads to a stronger fastener.

[LTb1ow]

Cut vs rolled is solved with proper heat treating after machining operations.

So, is this car done yet?

[LS1ow]

few more odds and ends to complete. Past few days have been kinda hectic and car has been put on the back burner since friday.

Today im gunna throw the trans dipstick on, torque the balancer, and prob throw the harness on.

It makes sense to throw the O2 sensors in the collectors now right?

[LS1ow]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/36822389413_dbd601f629_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/37233753440_8fc981a057_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/23639426998_b9ca0b800e_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

That will do...that will do.

[sweetbmxrider]

Chain fall yessssssss

I'd wait on o2's, they are plenty accessible after.

Still trying to get you some welding lead :-?

[LS1ow]

Chain fall yessssssss

I'd wait on o2's, they are plenty accessible after.

Still trying to get you some welding lead :-?

No worries, i caved and ordered cable.

#SwipeLikeBLS

[LS1ow]

Wheels are on.

Today I also realized I don't have a trans dipstick lmao but I should be able to throw that in after the motor is in the car.

Harness goes on motor tmmr

[ar0ck]

Wheres the Opti? :shrug:

[Jersey Mike]

I have a spare, I'll add it to your parts pile.

[LS1ow]

I have a spare, I'll add it to your parts pile.

LiKE ENTiRE DiPSTiCK ASSEMBLY WiTH TUB3?

[LS1ow]

Nothing major from yesterday, just put tires on. but everyone loves pics so...

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/37512180221_7155ec6fb5_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37464034326_926755c420_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

I feel like you should crank those springs up a bunch moar. Usually end up around halfway up the shock for decent tire clearance. Also, I'd go with a 1 inch rake front to rear for dem wheelies.

[LS1ow]

I feel like you should crank those springs up a bunch moar. Usually end up around halfway up the shock for decent tire clearance. Also, I'd go with a 1 inch rake front to rear for dem wheelies.

Good plan. I just tighted em to hold pressure against the spring to throw em in. Prob easier to crank em up now than on the car.

1" in front that rear? Do the StanceLords allow that ?

[wretched73]

Bro- if you crank up the front, it'll look so BA. People will think you're always set on kill and just letting it eat at all times

[Blackbirdws6]

http://40.media.tumblr.com/c274eb54decdba49eb6f8e31b58cc682/tumblr_ne3zc2Azv51u22vxqo6_1280.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Front at 26.5" and rear at 27.5", that kinda rake. Your numbers will vary. Ground to bottom of fender/quarter should be good enough in my opinion.

[LS1ow]

Front at 26.5" and rear at 27.5", that kinda rake. Your numbers will vary. Ground to bottom of fender/quarter should be good enough in my opinion.

That makes sense. Way you said it I thought you meant 27.5" front 26.5" rear

[wretched73]

That makes sense. Way you said it I thought you meant 27.5" front 26.5" rear

THAT is what I'm talking about. Home boys will never mess with you because you're gonna look like you're always yanking that front up

[qwikz28]

THAT is what I'm talking about. Home boys will never mess with you because you're gonna look like you're always yanking that front up

Like some Carolina Squat?

https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f2/254280d1378687614-how-bout-carolina-squat-image.jpg

[LS1ow]

Like some Carolina Squat?

https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f2/254280d1378687614-how-bout-carolina-squat-image.jpg

Yesssss. Like all those #DURTYMONEY pick ups on 26x14s !

[LTb1ow]

#calileanyoooo

https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11264586_105233353146189_1207113727_n.jpg

[wretched73]

YYYAAAAASSSSS

Cali lean is OG

[BonzoHansen]

those trucks look worse than optispark

[qwikz28]

those trucks look worse than optispark

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/044/247/297.png

[BonzoHansen]

Yes! God damn clouds! get off my lawn!

[Jersey Mike]

The last 10-15 posts though :rofl:

[LS1ow]

What can i do about the extra plugs i wont be using? So far both Primary o2 sensors, the AC clutch and the 2 for evap or whatever by the coils. Rather not have them flopping around. Cut and tape? or just leave em and try to tuck em somewere

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/23670486468_fc6b4a0f23_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/23670486488_2bafac7b44_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/36853156293_88a99ab004_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Depin with a paperclip, shrink wrap the leads and bury in loom.

Label optional, pending how you feel about future you.

[wretched73]

Depin with a paperclip, shrink wrap the leads and bury in loom.

Label optional, pending how you feel about future you.

All of this but make sure you label them. Future you will appreciate this.

If you live to be as old as Bonzo you might want AC back

[BonzoHansen]

word. or if you morph into a polar bear.

[LS1ow]

There are many other things on the build that render AC non returnable.

Not sure if O2 sensors will be needed for the turbo?

[LTb1ow]

Depends.

Mine are just there for the ride. OLSD tune

[Jersey Mike]

Don't bother. Just zip tie them out of the way.

[Featherburner]

Bro- if you crank up the front, it'll look so BA. People will think you're always set on kill and just letting it eat at all times
Have you ever seen the FAST class run at Englishtown? They run like that all the way through the 1/4.

[LS1ow]

new page

[LS1ow]

My buddy doms clean LT1 car, hes a member on here as well, just not very active. Was a ton of help today.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37527078932_05626162fe_z.jpg

Rolled once of my benches outside to have as a large tool cart so we didnt keep having to go back inside to the tool box

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/36848595774_298fd6c53f_z.jpg

Ready for its new heart.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36889052563_33be68f2fd_z.jpg

BLS suggested Dolly on the trans, jack under the motor, and go jacks under the wheels. worked perfect, thanks bls.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/23706680548_f4f74f321b_z.jpg

Aligned as best we could before going up.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/37300184020_4166fa744c_z.jpg
going up

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/37558771181_aae523894e_z.jpg


going down !

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/36848595094_1dcec15031_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/37558770421_1ecdd482ac_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/36848417544_37b84dd587_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/37558560541_e641ac12c2_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Nice work!! I'm sure there is a lot of work ahead but this is great progress.

[qwikz28]

Great! How's it drive?

[LTb1ow]

Looks good man, solid month of pushing and you will be set for rental shens

[PolarBear]

The hard part is done, looks like there is about 15-20 minutes of work to finish it up!

[sweetbmxrider]

Wait........Dom drives a red sports car?















































http://www.funny-potato.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/lolcano.gif

[LS1ow]

There is still a ton of work left. My main concern is actually the MAP sensor. They barely hold in the FAST manifold. Poor enough that it actually pulled out when i moved the harness out of the way. i should have plenty of room to get it in due to HVAC being HVMIA.

Tommorow after work ill try to tackle the map sensor as well as the rest of the harness. Hopefully my new belts and AN fittings get here as well so i can do the alt belt and the trans cooler mounting.

[MDSheds_SS]

Map is on the back of the intake ? Or on top of your intake? Mine can be in either location

[qwikz28]

My map sensor is held on by hopes and dreams. Came out while I was installing too and had to redo it. Eventually got it to stay when installing the FAST and it's stayed put for the past 4 or 5 years I've had it.

[sweetbmxrider]

Good thing its going to be seeing vacuum/no pressure. Should help it stay put :lol:

[LS1ow]

Map is on the back of the intake ? Or on top of your intake? Mine can be in either location

On the back. It's held in with that ******** orange grommet

[LS1ow]

My map sensor is held on by hopes and dreams. Came out while I was installing too and had to redo it. Eventually got it to stay when installing the FAST and it's stayed put for the past 4 or 5 years I've had it.

How'd you get it to stay?

[LTb1ow]

stycast that **** in

[qwikz28]

How'd you get it to stay?

Pretty sure nothing. It only came out if something moved, so I left it that way and was very careful when sliding the intake under the cowl.

[KirkEvil]

There should be a single hole for a small bolt (M4?) right next to the map port. I put a washer on the bolt and that was enough to clamp down on the outside of the map sensor to prevent it from backing out. That was on both fast 102s I've had

[qwikz28]

can't you rubberband the sensor to that thing coming out of the back of the intake?

[LS1ow]

There should be a single hole for a small bolt (M4?) right next to the map port. I put a washer on the bolt and that was enough to clamp down on the outside of the map sensor to prevent it from backing out. That was on both fast 102s I've had

So ditch my 92/92 and go 102/102 so i can do that ?

i like it!

[LS1ow]

Small little ground "eyelit" on the section of harness with the oil level and crank sensor is signal to starter? Just trying to get wiring done on paper before in car is tackled

EDIT: This look okay to follow? the double grounds thing is odd, but whatevs.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37565407642_dff24067f8_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

You don't need the body grounds especially since its a unibody car. Wiring looks good to me. Personally, I'd run alternator straight to battery and battery lead to shut off switch.

[LS1ow]

You don't need the body grounds especially since its a unibody car. Wiring looks good to me. Personally, I'd run alternator straight to battery and battery lead to shut off switch.

So alt to battery instead of alt to cut off? And 1 cable from bat to cut off?

[LTb1ow]

So alt to battery instead of alt to cut off? And 1 cable from bat to cut off?

Its semantics IMO.

Either way the switch will see the current levels, BUT, you may mechanically overload the switch lug itself using it to hold two heavy gauge wires.

Mine is setup with the switch being the junction point, so far so good.

[LS1ow]

Refresh me, torque arm install done with rear freely hanging? Or with wheels on ground?

Also, since there is a supply and return fuel line running to the front, am I okay just leaving the return line there hanging around? Or does it need to be capped?

[FlyingDutchman]

Refresh me, torque arm install done with rear freely hanging? Or with wheels on ground?

Suspension has to be loaded to tilt torque arm down/inline with trans, otherwise it will be pinned against the trans tunnel. With the car or rear half on stands, I use the floor jack to raise rear up.

[LS1ow]

Suspension has to be loaded to tilt torque arm down/inline with trans, otherwise it will be pinned against the trans tunnel. With the car or rear half on stands, I use the floor jack to raise rear up.

I have a Crossmember mounted TQ arm, that effect it?

The car is already up on jack stands so i can do the wiring, i was going to pull the jack stands from the rear of the car and let the back tires sit on a spare set of jeep wheels i have so its under load.

[LS1ow]

New grommet for map sensor as well as AN fittings for trans cooler have arrived.

trans cooler lines run pretty close to the collector, im imagining this is pretty terrible since not only is the line itself maybe going to be damaged, but i want my trans fluid to not be boiling when it goes back in. How are you guys with LTs running the lines?

*** i dont have stock trans lines, i have -6an hose from trans to cooler

[sweetbmxrider]

Don't sweat the exhaust being close. Route it the best you can, it'll be fine.

[LS1ow]

Don't sweat the exhaust being close. Route it the best you can, it'll be fine.

Im prob going to run it between the motor mount and the block, and hook a right up along the frame rail, and then around the rad to the front were the cooler sits.

[LTb1ow]

Im prob going to run it between the motor mount and the block, and hook a right up along the frame rail, and then around the rad to the front were the cooler sits.

I would be much more worried about engine block chafing the rubber lines and spraying hot trans oil on headers than just lines being near the header.

[LS1ow]

I would be much more worried about engine block chafing the rubber lines and spraying hot trans oil on headers than just lines being near the header.

They wouldnt be rubbing against the block, im going to run it between the engine mount and the block (I have a turbo style K member, so engine mounts are tubular) so there is plenty of room. Ill secure it against the mount so there is no movement

[sweetbmxrider]

That is roughly what the factory lines would do. Just take precaution like smash is suggesting and you'll be fine.

[LS1ow]

Ok good, rubbing/tearing should be a problem. I was just worried about heat

[LS1ow]

Heres some pics of roughly were the trans fluid lines would be running. I dont want to secure them in place until the rad.

You can kinda see how close it is to the header. Starter isnt in yet, itll run right over the top of it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/37601497672_ddec84515c_z.jpg

Under Tubular motor mount and over rack.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37374889720_072bd1a2d4_z.jpg


Since i didnt have much time to work on the car yesterday, i decided to tackle something small so i did the wire tuck on the pass fender. Since i have the fender guts cut out i have plenty of room so i will be running the wires along side of the what was removed, as apposed to inside of the well. (wouldnt want the connectors to get crushed or ripped about upon wheely landings!)

This raised 2 more questions. I have 2 unoccupied connectors. 1 male with looks like 1 grey wire 1 white wire, and 1 female with 1 dark green 1 tan wire. Im assuming 1 of them is for the ABS sensors that i will not be using. The other i am not sure. Both of them are on the section of harness that has been on the car, not the engine side of the harness.

And as for the ground that is normally on that shock tower, since im running the wires along the inside of the fender, for the ground i can just grind the paint off to bare metal and throw a nut and bolt threw it to create a ground spot ?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37374889620_24cc64a0cc_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/36962806183_0b8e911f60_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

I think, that is either AIR/ASR

As far as the trans lines, I believe mine are on the outboard side of the header, I'll look tonight.

[Blackbirdws6]

And as for the ground that is normally on that shock tower, since im running the wires along the inside of the fender, for the ground i can just grind the paint off to bare metal and throw a nut and bolt threw it to create a ground spot ?



Yes you can do that. I'd obviously try and find a bolt that will thread somewhat through the hole vs just bare metal to metal contact.

[LS1ow]

I think, that is either AIR/ASR

On the Pass side ? i thought that was driverside bologna

Yes you can do that. I'd obviously try and find a bolt that will thread somewhat through the hole vs just bare metal to metal contact.

Currently i have a 3/8th nut and bolt threw it. Withe the ground itself against the chassis, and a washer ontop of it to sandwich between the bolt and ground

[LTb1ow]

On the Pass side ? i thought that was driverside bologna

Currently i have a 3/8th nut and bolt threw it. Withe the ground itself against the chassis, and a washer ontop of it to sandwich between the bolt and ground

IDK, I thought on Kirk's car the ASR/TCS motor was PAX side.

[sweetbmxrider]

Once the starter is in, use zip ties or something to help pull the lines towards the oil pan. I also routed inside of the low oil sensor loom just to help keep them from sliding towards the primaries etc.

Make a ground and make it nice.

IDK, I thought on Kirk's car the ASR/TCS motor was PAX side.

It is, bolts up right behind the battery on the strut tower. The first one is definitely a wheel speed sensor.

[LS1ow]

Once the starter is in, use zip ties or something to help pull the lines towards the oil pan. I also routed inside of the low oil sensor loom just to help keep them from sliding towards the primaries etc.

Make a ground and make it nice.



It is, bolts up right behind the battery on the strut tower. The first one is definitely a wheel speed sensor.

So snip and heatshrink

[LS1ow]

Started wiring the EWP today using the harness they sell, which is just 4 wires off a relay.

The relay has 1 blue, 1 black, 1 green, 1 orange wire.

Blue: to blue wire off wp

Black: ground, but there is a black wire off the EWP. Is the EWP itself grounded? Do I run the black wire off the relay to a ground as well the black wire off the EWP to the ground ?

Orange: 12v source, so any recommendations ? Relay is right by fuse box. Can I just run a wire with an eyelit to the same post that the cable that powers the fuse box from the starter runs to? Or is that to much for a small wire

Green: key on source, any one in specific I should pick up off?

[MDSheds_SS]

I ran the trigger wire off the eng sensor fuse, so if the pump loses power the car loses power. To save the car from overheating. Might not be the best way to do it but that is powered key on position and has worked for both cars so far.

[LS1ow]

I ran the trigger wire off the eng sensor fuse, so if the pump loses power the car loses power. To save the car from overheating. Might not be the best way to do it but that is powered key on position and has worked for both cars so far.


And you don't run a relay or anything? Just trigger wire to the fuse and black wire grounded? That seems super simple, I like.

[MDSheds_SS]

I run a relay, 12v from battery to the relay and the trigger wire which comes from the engine sensor fuse (key on) just closes the contacts and allows power to the pump. Pump is also grounded with the black wire.

[LS1ow]

I run a relay, 12v from battery to the relay and the trigger wire which comes from the engine sensor fuse (key on) just closes the contacts and allows power to the pump. Pump is also grounded with the black wire.

So you ground the pump and the relay separate? As mentioned above, the relay included in the kit is 4 prong. Signal, trigger, 12v, and key ignition. With a fuse in line on the 12v power wire

[MDSheds_SS]

I used a heavy duty relay, like a ford starting solenoid. Over kill but this is how mine is set up. http://a63.tinypic.com/69hnnn.jpg
Also put a fuse in line from the battery. Don't remember what size I used tho.
My father said the ol school water pumps would draw a lot of amps so I figured these did too, better safe then sorry, didn't trust that cube relay it came with.

[The_Bishop]

Also: Put the fuse as close to the power source as possible, otherwise if you develop a short between the fuse and source, the fuse won't do diddly.

[LS1ow]

sigh, my battery is all the way in the trunk !

[LTb1ow]

sigh, my battery is all the way in the trunk !

Do you not have a fuse block for crap up front?

[LS1ow]

Do you not have a fuse block for crap up front?

The factory one on front DS. Can i just pull power off that stud?

[LTb1ow]

Take out the AIR pump lines, use that fused circuit to feed the EWP.

[LS1ow]

Take out the AIR pump lines, use that fused circuit to feed the EWP.


I got rid of that stuff long ago.

This the the diagram that came with the wire kit.

1. Blue wire to Pump Blue Wire
2. Orange Wire to power post on fuse block
3 Green wire piggyback off any key on fuse
4. Black wire, so i ground the black wire off the pump on its own and the black wire off the relay on its own? Do i splice them together and ground them? wtf


https://www.meziere.com/meziere/media/Pdfs/WIK346.pdf?ext=.pdf

[LTb1ow]

Unless you ruined the fuse block the circuit for the AIR pump is still there. Used that fused circuit to power the relay for the EWP, or just use the AIR pump relay slot.

Ground is ground, make sure the EWP ground wire is a good ground, current needs to flow through that so a crappy ground will be hot. I would just run the pin 85 so a small ground point somewhere else.

[LS1ow]

Unless you ruined the fuse block the circuit for the AIR pump is still there. Used that fused circuit to power the relay for the EWP, or just use the AIR pump relay slot.

Ground is ground, make sure the EWP ground wire is a good ground, current needs to flow through that so a crappy ground will be hot. I would just run the pin 85 so a small ground point somewhere else.

Everything should still be there.

So just run the black wire from the EWP to a frame ground, and run the blue wire off the EWP to the air pump relay?

[LTb1ow]

Everything should still be there. Since i wont be using the harness i have, can i just ground the black wire off the EWP directly to the frame?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1649286-ewp-wiring-air-pump-relay.html

Some lulz from the resident lulz'rs

And yes, I would do that, or go to a ground stud

[wretched73]

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1649286-ewp-wiring-air-pump-relay.html

Some lulz from the resident lulz'rs

And yes, I would do that, or go to a ground stud

Man, that weird cyclist guy is a :nick:

[LS1ow]

Run a wire from the small positive terminal on the passenger side fender to terminal 87 of the relay.
Run a wire from the ignition fuse in the underhood fuse box to terminal 86 of the relay. You can tap into the wire below the fuse box.
Run a wire from terminal 85 of the relay to a good solid ground.
Run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay through a 1-amp inline fuse holder, then to the blue wire of the water pump.
Run the black wire off the water pump to another good solid ground.

[sweetbmxrider]

:bertstare:

[LTb1ow]

Run a wire from the small positive terminal on the passenger side fender to terminal 87 of the relay.
Run a wire from the ignition fuse in the underhood fuse box to terminal 86 of the relay. You can tap into the wire below the fuse box.
Run a wire from terminal 85 of the relay to a good solid ground.
Run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay through a 1-amp inline fuse holder, then to the blue wire of the water pump.
Run the black wire off the water pump to another good solid ground.

:bertstare::bertstare::bertstare:

[LS1ow]

yeah, idk why it says 1 amp. I just copied and pasted.


side note, since there are going to be other things that need grounds, should i pick up a junction block to clean things up ? never used one, would it suffice ?

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/151955172913-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Yes, it will make your life much easier.

Do the same with your hot leads.

[LS1ow]

Yes, it will make your life much easier.

Do the same with your hot leads.

I have one on my jeep for all the LEDs and misc ****. Same as depicted below. Suffice ?

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/product_images/bu/450/buss-fuse-block.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Do you really have that many added fused circuits..?

[LS1ow]

Do you really have that many added fused circuits..?

Negative. right now only the EWP. Only thing that will be added is nitrous stuff.

what would you recommend instead?

[LTb1ow]

I told ya.

Use the OEM fused AIR pump circuitry to feed the EWP and find a ignition hot source to trigger the OEM relay.

[LS1ow]

I told ya.

Use the OEM fused AIR pump circuitry to feed the EWP and find a ignition hot source to trigger the OEM relay.

You also said get one for the hot leads you gypsy. Why must you speak in riddles and not just tell me what color wire goes were

[LTb1ow]

You also said get one for the hot leads you gypsy. Why must you speak in riddles and not just tell me what color wire goes were

Cause IDK how many ejecto seats and LED floods you are gonna attach to this poor thing.

If its just an EWP, use the OEM stuff.

If its more, grab a nice terminal strip to add grounds/hots.

Simple.

[LS1ow]

Cause IDK how many ejecto seats and LED floods you are gonna attach to this poor thing.

If its just an EWP, use the OEM stuff.

If its more, grab a nice terminal strip to add grounds/hots.

Simple.


:facepalm: No LEDs on this one.


Can i just use wire taps to get into the signal and power relay?

[Blackbirdws6]

:facepalm: No LEDs on this one.


Can i just use wire taps to get into the signal and power relay?

I would prefer you at least strip, solder and heat shrink.

[LS1ow]

I would prefer you at least strip, solder and heat shrink.

I can actually just pull the use block out and turn it upside down, right? Give me much better access then id be able to just cut the wires from the form pump and attach the wires to the wires coming from the relay.

[Blackbirdws6]

I can actually just pull the use block out and turn it upside down, right? Give me much better access then id be able to just cut the wires from the form pump and attach the wires to the wires coming from the relay.

Yep you can do that. I have a few wires under there that the world needs not see.

[LS1ow]

87- orange
30- orange
85-brown
86- Red

[LS1ow]

EWP wiring should be done. Hopefully its right lol


Tightened down the converter and threw in the starter yesterday, so thats another thing off the list. New U joints for DS done yesterday as well.

I posted this question earlier to no avail, but since i am running a return less fuel system do i need to cap off that other fuel line? or can i just let it hang out. I know there is a fuel line that branches off the main line right after the fuel filter, but i dont remember were it heads to.

[PolarBear]

I would say you should cap the line especially if it is connected to the tank. There is no check valve or anything in the return, so you'll get fumes out of it. Unless it's really just the EVAP line, then it doesn't matter

[LS1ow]

I would say you should cap the line especially if it is connected to the tank. There is no check valve or anything in the return, so you'll get fumes out of it. Unless it's really just the EVAP line, then it doesn't matter

Its one of the hard lines that come up along the driveside rail. I honestly dont remember what i did with the fuel pump hat lmao ill have to dig threw the thread. I think i may have just capped it off that the tank so its just a open hose on both ends. If that is the case im just gunna leave it for now.

[PolarBear]

I don't know 4th gens very well. I would say it's the line for the EVAP to the canister on the tank, and you can just leave it open.

[LS1ow]

I don't know 4th gens very well. I would say it's the line for the EVAP to the canister on the tank, and you can just leave it open.

That would be best case scenario

[sweetbmxrider]

Ls1's are returnless factory. You have a fuel feed line and an evap line.

[LS1ow]

Ls1's are returnless factory. You have a fuel feed line and an evap line.

So let that bitch swang ?

[PolarBear]

So let that bitch swang ?

Yeah, should be fine since it just connects to the solenoid on the fuel tank for the charcoal canister. Maybe just stick a plastic cap on it so you don't poke your eye out

[LS1ow]

Yeah, should be fine since it just connects to the solenoid on the fuel tank for the charcoal canister. Maybe just stick a plastic cap on it so you don't poke your eye out

Osha approved

http://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1vsjuJpXXXXbXaXXXq6xXFXXXX/OSHA-Rebar-Plastic-Mushroom-Protection-Cap.jpg

[The_Bishop]

Hold on; the LS1's aren't exactly returnless.

There's a loop of sorts from the gas tank to a tee fitting in the hard lines after the filter. The one side of the tee is fed from the tank, the other side runs up to the engine, and the side port loops back to the fuel pressure regulator in the tank, which vents excess pressure into said tank.

Unless you're running some kind of aftermarket setup?

[LS1ow]

Hold on; the LS1's aren't exactly returnless.

There's a loop of sorts from the gas tank to a tee fitting in the hard lines after the filter. The one side of the tee is fed from the tank, the other side runs up to the engine, and the side port loops back to the fuel pressure regulator in the tank, which vents excess pressure into said tank.

Unless you're running some kind of aftermarket setup?

That Tee fitting is what was talking about in my earlier post about the line branching off. I wasnt sure if that gets ran up front or back to the tank.

Ill have to just head back under the car and check

[LS1ow]

Hold on; the LS1's aren't exactly returnless.

There's a loop of sorts from the gas tank to a tee fitting in the hard lines after the filter. The one side of the tee is fed from the tank, the other side runs up to the engine, and the side port loops back to the fuel pressure regulator in the tank, which vents excess pressure into said tank.

Unless you're running some kind of aftermarket setup?

Crawled under the car to check everything out last night and i should be good to go. The line off that T is routed back to the tank hat and dumps into the tank. I will be okay just capping off that Evap line

[LS1ow]

Ran into another issue yesterday when i started to put my rad in. Realized the the harness for the electric fans that i thought was on the rad the whole time is actually MIA. In addition to that problem, i believe i may have hacked off the connector for them in my cutting spree.

- Anyone got a pic or any info of what that connector looks like so i can check? I believe the one that got hacked was 3 pin with fairly large gauge wires. I recall taping back a unoccupied connector yesterday with multipul pins (atleast 4) so im hoping that was it.

-Anyone have one of electric fan harnesses laying around ?

EDIT***

Was able to snipe this connector out of a pic in my phone, this is the connector i taped out of the way yesterday. Can any confirm this is the connector for the electric fan harness

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/23838517798_dd78d70c02_z.jpg

[PolarBear]

Stock electric fan connector is 2 pin and is part of the body side harness from what I remember, goes to the fuse block

[LS1ow]

Stock electric fan connector is 2 pin and is part of the body side harness from what I remember, goes to the fuse block

Really? I thought the fans each had a 2 pin connector of their own, which joined together at 1 connector. Something similar to this:

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/VfQAAOSwSlBY39mw/$_58.JPG

[PolarBear]

The harness I have from a 99 Firebird, the fan harness is not separate.

[LS1ow]

The harness I have from a 99 Firebird, the fan harness is not separate.

it doesnt have its own harness like this ? Or did this dude just cut the wires

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R6kAAOSwAj5ZznqQ/s-l1600.jpg

[PolarBear]

Yes, the harness was exactly like that, but it was connected to the body side harness, no connector in the middle. I just found it on the harness, that big connector is there, but it is for something else, the wires from the fan connectors go down the harness. **edit I just toned it out, definitely direct from the fan to the fuse block**

[LS1ow]

Yes, the harness was exactly like that, but it was connected to the body side harness, no connector in the middle. I just found it on the harness, that big connector is there, but it is for something else, the wires from the fan connectors go down the harness

Ill have to check it out when i get home from work, i remember seeing 1 stray 2 pin, but not 2.

Are you near the harness ? any way you can let me know what color the wires are?

[PolarBear]

Are you near the harness ? any way you can let me know what color the wires are?

Looks like blue and grey on one (might be green instead of grey, pretty sure it's grey though) and white and black on the other

[LS1ow]

Looks like blue and grey on one (might be green instead of grey, pretty sure it's grey though) and white and black on the other

Headed home to my garage now, thanks !

[PolarBear]

I should say, light blue and grey. I forgot there is dark blue too

[LS1ow]

Looks like I’m SOL. I don’t see any 2 pin connectors that would fit the rad fans(horizontal pins)

The only connector I see on the harness running across the rad support is the 2 pin for the washer fluid pump and the branch off on both sides for lighting wiring.

That 1 stray 2 pin I was mentioning earlier is a black wire and a white or faded yellow with black stripe

[PolarBear]

I could peel this one out of the harness if you really need

[PolarBear]

I could also make you some harness with 10 gauge wire as long as you need with the proper fan connectors at the end. This is what I did when I built the harness for my LS swap into my 92

[LS1ow]

Do T56 cars not have Electric fans? Maybe that’s why I can’t seem to find it

[PolarBear]

I think all the cars have the same fans for the LS years, V6/V8 and Manual/Auto

[LS1ow]

I think all the cars have the same fans for the LS years, V6/V8 and Manual/Auto

Found em. I’ve been swindled

[The_Bishop]

https://www.askideas.com/media/41/Funny-Glasses-Meme-I-Put-Glasses-In-Ur-Glasses-So-U-Can-See-While-U-See-Picture.jpg

:lol:

[PolarBear]

And, where were they?