Not this again.

[LS1ow]

Read somewhere that water transfer design options extend beyond Affliction graphics.

Just hit up KB Motorsports to see what it would cost

Havent me and you had a chat about that kid? Ill never bring my business there.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

My tenant PB Hydrographics is a gearhead and does that.

[LS1ow]

Ran into one of the first, and im sure not last, set backs of the final assembly.

Maybe some of you engine/math gurus can help shed some light because its a bit blurry to me.

Turns out the valve springs i have, are no good to use with the cam i have due to "coil bind"

The Valve springs are Brian Tooley .660 lift platinum springs with Ti Retainers.

-Spring specs are 155 lbs @ 1.780", 380 lbs @ 1.180", 400 lbs @ 1.130, coil bind @ 1.070"

The Cam is a Flowtech Cam

-.614" intake lift, .601 exhaust

[Blackbirdws6]

Coil bind clearance is: [valve-spring installed height on the seat – (cam lobe lift × rocker arm ratio) + valve lash – safety margin]

Checking it another way you can do Coilbind + Safety Margin + Valve lift = Installed height

[LS1ow]

What I got from my phone call with Brian Tooley:

1.780 = installed spring height
1.070 = Bind
.614 = Cam lift

1.070+ 0.614 = 1.684.

1.780 - 1.684 = .096

Aka... perfect fitment

[LS1ow]

Fast forward to my trip to my machine shop.. which I will not name yet since I do not want to oust them incase they are really not at fault here.

But anyway...

Measured of my untouched head

-valve spring hieght of 1.700

Which in turn would put me at -.015, which is not a safe zone.

[Blackbirdws6]

Can they mill the seat to get you to the proper height?

[LS1ow]

Can they mill the seat to get you to the proper height?

Im sure thats a possibility. But i dont know how to go about it right now. Here what we last left off at last night after talking to the machine shop, BTR and Ed Curtis.

BTR

-They think either it is a freak accident were i did get the wrong springs in the box, but super unlikely due to me buying the springs 8 months ago, thus putting them in a way past run of spring sets. There were zero other instances of this. I spoke to Nick @ BTR who was super helpful and informative. He had opened a set of the same springs i have, and also happen to have a bare head there. He measured spring height with 2 different tools. Not sure what the differences were, but he got 2 different results. 1 within the tolerance, 1 out of. So he also thinks that my shop should be measuring the incorrect way.

Ed Curtis

-Couldnt really shed much light due to not using a a spring kit they sell. But cool he took the time to respond.

Machine Shop

Seems to think either the head is out of whack, which im not sure how but whatevs. Or the wrong springs are in the box. Saw it myself, Measured height with the BTR cup and retainer and whatnot is 1.700. The height from raw spring seat to retainer is 1.760, still less than advertised 1.780.



The machine shop is calling BTR today to hash this out.

[LS1ow]

After i got home from the machine shop debacle i threw the subframe up on my bench are started to tear it down.

The only thing off this that is being reused other than the knuckle assemblies is the steering rack.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35830769900_2ac8a67a9c.jpg

Stripped... anyone need a LS1 K member and control arms?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4311/35389913914_55546de24d.jpg

The Replacement....

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/36088059701_a9756cb123.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/ce/ce4ddb8e08736593fa462645794a5fc063291c5997118394ea 573057f5ce6f62.jpg

[LS1ow]

Heads are done. Measurement error.

[Blackbirdws6]

Really? Lulz

[LS1ow]

Really? Lulz

Yeah lol "tool was not calibrated"

Kinda concerning tbh. Not so much for me, Bc the spring is a spring. As long as it's in right it's gunna work. But I don't want to imagine the issues something like a tool not being calibrated could cause in a race engine shop

[MDSheds_SS]

Thought about doing the same thing as i did to the LS6 with the fast, but opted against. The fast is very very "wrinkley" so tape lines would be a night mare.

If you do any paint on the fast make sure you use a good primer. I did one coat of primer and it's starting to flake away. Not happy with myself.

[LS1ow]

If you do any paint on the fast make sure you use a good primer. I did one coat of primer and it's starting to flake away. Not happy with myself.

Wanna trade my fresh non flakey 92 set up for your 102?!:mrgreen:

[LS1ow]

Before I finish of the front end, I want to replace the upper control arm uhmmm mounting plate? I guess you would call it.

Were can I find em new?

[sweetbmxrider]

Don't think they exist. Clean it and por15 it.

[KirkEvil]

You can get them on rockauto

[LS1ow]

Don't think they exist. Clean it and por15 it.

You can get them on rockauto

I cant find em.

I need these (the black plate)

http://speednik.s3.amazonaws.com/legacy/lsxtv.com/data/524/IMG_8647.JPG

[sweetbmxrider]

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2002,camaro,5.7l+v8,1379976,suspension,s trut+mount,7600

[Blackbirdws6]

Lulz at the prices - https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1996/chevrolet/camaro/parts/suspension/front-suspension/control-arms/?&p=1&sb=1

Order some used ones off Ebay that look good and spray them until new.

[LS1ow]

WOW.

Yeah, ill just be respraying mine then.

[LS1ow]

Placed order for

-IAC
-TPS
-Oil pressure sender(broke when throwing engine on the stand)
-Starter Bolts
-Bellhousing to motor bolts
-Alternator bracket

[Blackbirdws6]

WOW.

Yeah, ill just be respraying mine then.

POR15

[LS1ow]

POR15

yah, thats what i meant

[LS1ow]

Threw the control arms onto the tube K, and then tested fit. fits perfect, just need to find some bolts for the engine mounts to K member. Napa, Autozone, pepboys dont have em!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35841394910_3ee6d9a3ae.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/36232790585_3590d9838e.jpg

so much room for future turbo downpipes.



....just kidding





...bc everyone knows itll have a hood stack.

[wretched73]

Did you lose all of the nuts and bolts when you tore this thing down?! :kneeslap:

[LS1ow]

Did you lose all of the nuts and bolts when you tore this thing down?! :kneeslap:

Which bolts? The bellhousing bolts off the engine and trans it didnt come with? or the starter bolts that the starter didnt come with ? :nick::nick:

[BonzoHansen]

wow you are gonna get nickled & dimed on this one huh? :)

[LS1ow]

wow you are gonna get nickled & dimed on this one huh? :)

There is a TON of stuff i didnt account for lol over $200 spent today on that stuff, none of which i really took into consideration at the start.


my original $4,000 budget is crying somewere back around december.

[BonzoHansen]

lol yeah minor stuff adds up fast. and none of it is sexy or fun or even seen once its done

[LS1ow]

lol yeah minor stuff adds up fast. and none of it is sexy or fun or even seen once its done

hell yeah. $150ish just between the IAC and TPS. That could have paid for 1 of my front runners.

[wretched73]

I feel like every other post has various bolts that you need to buy

[LS1ow]

I feel like every other post has various bolts that you need to buy

It is lol a lot of it has to do with the motor/trans. There was some stuff missing from the car as well. Tq arm so needed bolts for that, trans X member, Tunnel Brace, etc. I also have replaced some bolts a didn't really need to. But if I'm going to do it may is well do it right. For instance, I bought all new hardware for all the front suspension just because I don't want to put old cruddy bolts into brand new components.

[LS1ow]

If i get home from work at a normal time tmmr, ill be throwing the lifters in and the heads on.

Questions-

1. Soak the lifters overnight in oil? Just throw them in a container and submerge em?

2. LS7 Lifters have a oiling hole in them, does it matter which way it faces?

3. 106in/lbs for lifter trays?

4. Is it really as simple as just dropping the lifters into theyre home, sliding the lifter trays in, and torquing the bolt down?

[sweetbmxrider]

Just make sure they are facing correctly and you are good. Trays torque sounds good. If it makes you feel good, soak them in oil.

[LS1ow]

Just make sure they are facing correctly and you are good. Trays torque sounds good. If it makes you feel good, soak them in oil.

Which way is correctly ?

[wretched73]

I've read to soak them in oil and not to soak them in oil. One of the vendors on LS1 tech says not to soak them in oil

[sweetbmxrider]

I don't know about the oil hole you are talking about, I just meant so they roll on the cam lobes, not drift :lol:

[wretched73]

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1876020-243-heads-tsp-224r-cam-ls7-lifters.html#post19685074

[LS1ow]

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1876020-243-heads-tsp-224r-cam-ls7-lifters.html#post19685074

interesting read. I dont see how soaking them in oil can be bad however. I wish they would post up that note that they include.

[wretched73]

I agree, I stumbled upon it yesterday.

I've read too much about LS7 lifters. Guys on LS1tech run them in everything, guys on PT.net are staring to hate on them claiming many of them fail and to just upgrade to Johnsons

[LS1ow]

I agree, I stumbled upon it yesterday.

I've read too much about LS7 lifters. Guys on LS1tech run them in everything, guys on PT.net are staring to hate on them claiming many of them fail and to just upgrade to Johnsons

Meh, for the money ill run the LS7 joints now. When better heads come so will better lifters.

[LTb1ow]

My last setup put LS7s through my cam, so F them.

I have oiled all my lifters pre install, then usually dump oil on lifters and rockers prior to buttoning up.

[Blackbirdws6]

Always soaked my lifters and roller rockers got some nice assembly lube on the tips. I can't hear my lifters over the blower but I assume it's all fine.....

[LS1ow]

My last setup put LS7s through my cam, so F them.

I have oiled all my lifters pre install, then usually dump oil on lifters and rockers prior to buttoning up.

Always soaked my lifters and roller rockers got some nice assembly lube on the tips. I can't hear my lifters over the blower but I assume it's all fine.....


Rockers have been soaking in a little bit of oil in a baggy since taking delivery of them since Kirk. Lifters will get the oil bath tonight.

BLS, assembly lube on both ends of the lifter? And just on the pushrod cup of the rocker? or on both ends

[Blackbirdws6]

Rockers have been soaking in a little bit of oil in a baggy since taking delivery of them since Kirk. Lifters will get the oil bath tonight.

BLS, assembly lube on both ends of the lifter? And just on the pushrod cup of the rocker? or on both ends

Anything that will have initial metal to metal contact gets assembly lube. Soaking in oil is good but if it sits a while after assembly (we know it will), you will have only a thin film on a first/cold start. It's not much different than a cold start but if you are there, why not give her the best foot forward. Better to have the assembly lube on there to keep it good until the oil gets there.

[LS1ow]

Anything that will have initial metal to metal contact gets assembly lube. Soaking in oil is good but if it sits a while after assembly (we know it will)

Sounds like a good idea.:bertstare:

[LS1ow]

Since i wont be doing lifters/heads today, id like to bang out some of the front suspension

Any of you gentlemen have the torque specs for the following-

-Lower Control Arm to K member bolts
-Lower control arm ball joint to Knuckle
-Tie rod to knuckle
-Steering Rack to K member
-Front upper control arm to Strut mount bracket thingy
-Front upper control arm ball joint to knuckle

[sweetbmxrider]

My initial lt1 build, I soaked ls7 lifters etc and had the noisiest valvetrain evar.

Swapped to morel/lunati link bars, no soak, no noise.

Didn't do anything with my current build, didn't hear anything over the open headers :lol:

[sweetbmxrider]

Since i wont be doing lifters/heads today, id like to bang out some of the front suspension

Any of you gentlemen have the torque specs for the following-

-Lower Control Arm to K member bolts
-Lower control arm ball joint to Knuckle
-Tie rod to knuckle
-Steering Rack to K member
-Front upper control arm to Strut mount bracket thingy
-Front upper control arm ball joint to knuckle

- Vertical bolt/nut 85 ft lbs on the nut, Horizontal bolt/nut 74 ft lbs on the nut
- Impact gun to tight, fine taps to line up holes
- Impact gun to tight, fine taps to line up holes
- Bolts/screws 63 ft lbs with a back up wrench on nuts
- 72 ft lbs on the nuts
- Impact gun to tight, fine taps to line up holes

[LS1ow]

Thank ya handsome

[LS1ow]

Remember when I ordered rocker arm bolts? Me neither.

[sweetbmxrider]

Torque them heads yet???

[LS1ow]

Torque them heads yet???

Nah, havent gotten a chance to get to the machine shop to get my heads yet. Going to send my parts driver to grab them today hopefully. Last night i cleaned the block with some brakeclean and plastic razor blades. Today id like to chase all the headbolt threads and if time allows, throw the heads on.

[LS1ow]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/36366668055_b6e78412b0.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

28's?

[BonzoHansen]

remember, tires are only good for about ~10 years. :)

[LTb1ow]

remember, tires are only good for about ~10 years. :)

What do you think this is, a first beer build?

[LS1ow]

28's?

nah, 26x11.5. But dont worry BLS, i know your thinking "hmmm a 26" tire seems small for a Cam Car on spray" do not fret, i have a plan.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/35971855820_abf3665479.jpg


remember, tires are only good for about ~10 years. :)

Im shocked by your lack of confidence.

What do you think this is, a first beer build?

Im shocked by your amount of confidence.

[Blackbirdws6]

Nice nice. I sold off the 27s to Rob when I switched to the 28s.

[LS1ow]

Nice nice. I sold off the 27s to Rob when I switched to the 28s.

So your telling me to spray 2 kits ? got it.

[Blackbirdws6]

So your telling me to spray 2 kits ? got it.

With the 3rd on stand by. Making fun of myself here...

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/17/ae/81/17ae810ed3452dcb3ea5bd68ff8d65f2--funny-memes-car-memes.jpg

[BonzoHansen]

Im shocked by your lack of confidence.



Im shocked by your amount of confidence.

So target date is >now <10 years? Split the difference and go 5? :nick:

[LS1ow]

Got them mounted with the help of my coworker who is a tire mounting animal. Used some 16" bike tubes to close the gap between the tire and wheel bead. Even the blaster cannon and brakekleen explosion wouldnt get them to seat. Bike tire tubes worked first try. Great little tip.

Weighed them on our shipping scale: 37lbs

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/36340620296_aeedd4908f.jpg

[ar0ck]

That color wheel is going to go great with your car.

[LS1ow]

Threw the heads and alternator on after work today. Need to grab a belt for the new set up(Only crank pulley and alt)

Threw some more or the front end together as well. Brake lines mounted on the K, as well as the rack. Just need to grab some new washers for the banjo bolts into the calipers and Thr bottom of the front end is done. Waiting on new upper strut mounts as well.

[LS1ow]

Staring to look like a thing.

Going to clean up all the splatter with an exacto later, didnt have any blades laying around

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36311891391_6f4c805a08.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/36280707472_e8ec1b3d01.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Love it

[LS1ow]

Should look nice when its all dressed with rails and injectors. Waiting on new Orings and then gunna throw em on.

Getting closer and closer.

[sweetbmxrider]

Sick man looks ****

[Jersey Mike]

That's bad ass.

[LS1ow]

Figured it was a good compromise between doing the whole manifold like i did the LS6 and leaving it alone like an adult. Which i cant do.

[Jersey Mike]

No, you done did good. Clear coat?

[LS1ow]

No, you done did good. Clear coat?

Ya. Not really sure how long it is going to last tbh. I read about a bunch of people using hobby paint pens to touch up the letters when they fade, but couldnt find any pics of it after long term. Regular paint pens from hobby/craft store arent high heat or anything, so i just used regular automotive touch up.

The Red is the factory fast red untouched. The white and blue area i scuffed and cleaned real quick. The white is "Ibis White" and the blue is "Se Pang blue" touch up. Then over both with the corresponding Clear audi gives you when you buy a T-up marker.

[Jersey Mike]

the blue is "Se Pang blue" touch up.
of course it is.

[LS1ow]

Is there a "proper" way to mount an aux trans cooler? Im going to be mounting it in front of the rad off the core support, like pictured below. But im curious as to if it should be mounted so that the ports are horizontal(below) or vertical.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36320168152_c48619a861.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

You can do it either way but as pictured, I believe the feed is on top and return on the bottom. Thought it was stated in the b and m instructions actually.

[LS1ow]

You can do it either way but as pictured, I believe the feed is on top and return on the bottom. Thought it was stated in the b and m instructions actually.

Didnt even open box yet lol

[LTb1ow]

I would imagine you would wanna feed it from the bottom and force it up?

Either way, I didn't think about it when I mounted mine, and it seems to work.

[sweetbmxrider]

I don't think you'll run into issues either way but I recall seeing a proper orientation diagram.

[MDSheds_SS]

Ya. Not really sure how long it is going to last tbh. I read about a bunch of people using hobby paint pens to touch up the letters when they fade, but couldnt find any pics of it after long term. Regular paint pens from hobby/craft store arent high heat or anything, so i just used regular automotive touch up.

The Red is the factory fast red untouched. The white and blue area i scuffed and cleaned real quick. The white is "Ibis White" and the blue is "Se Pang blue" touch up. Then over both with the corresponding Clear audi gives you when you buy a T-up marker.

Painted mine all black then scuffed the LSX/R and used paint markers from Hobby Lobby. Silver/Red both are holding up perfectly.

[PolarBear]

I would imagine you would wanna feed it from the bottom and force it up?

This

I don't think you'll run into issues either way but I recall seeing a proper orientation diagram.

If you run the feed at the top it won't fill the tubes and won't cool, plus I think you trap air perpetually in it that way

[sweetbmxrider]

Makes sense, I originally thought gravity letting it come down but there must be enough pressure to push it up and back.

[LS1ow]

Makes of noise and makers of stance arrived today.

Jersey Mike was nice enough to bequeathed me some Pace Setter LTs way back at the begging of the build, but sadly those had seen some better days so different headers were added to the list.

After reading up on reviews and everyone raving about the fit and quality for the price, went with some Speed Engineering 1 7/8 Stainless "Race" headers. What makes them "Race Headers" is none of that stupid EGR ports and crap !:nod:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36525378876_d11ed833ec.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/36525379416_d891e34a97.jpg

After fighting with myself a few times on weather they were really necessary for "phase 1" of the build, my inner BLS walked back into work one day last week and YOLO'd some front coil overs. These will be fitted with the 275lb springs i acquired via trade for some drank.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4439/36404338742_4664315fed.jpg

[Jersey Mike]

:nod: :nod: :nod:

[Blackbirdws6]

I'm so proud of you.

[sweetbmxrider]

My insides are warm

[LS1ow]

In theory, I should have the front end completely assembled and waiting for engine to be bolted too it.

Keep forgetting to swing by my friends house for a push rod length checker. Soon as I measure up and order some I can throw them in and throw the rockers and valve covers on

[LS1ow]

Threw 1 of the coil overs together last night and ran into some trouble. Thanks to BLS it looks to be solved, but id figured id share anyway.

According to the supplied instructions, if i have a "conical" spring, then i ditch the upper spring mount that the coil over comes with, and have the top of the spring sit on the factory coil perch. Like pictured below on the left.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/36457159101_4218084619.jpg

After doing that, it doesnt sit perfect, but it should be okay. Im sure once it has weight on it itll get better.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/36548597386_7668b5dd96.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/35759292484_8557ce2a0c.jpg


But what really got me is how the bottom sits. Theres not much "meat" for the coil to sit on. 2 people have said theres is just like this, so i guess its cool. Just seems a bit odd to me.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/36548595866_b3dddde639.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4431/36457130271_d7ecb64ecb.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/35785362803_361cbdfce8.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

That's how I remember mine being.

[LS1ow]

That's how I remember mine being.

Yolo it is

[Blackbirdws6]

We spoke but for confirmation, shamu sits like dis. Not dead yet.

[LTb1ow]

Mine sits however Adam's did.

I can get pics of it tmmr perhaps, but I'd guess its like your pictures. No issues with that yet.

#adjustingrideheightsuX0rs

[LS1ow]

I must have missed the JSFBOA Coil over group buy.


Why so bad? I threw torrington bearings in

[PolarBear]

The thrust bearing is only so the spring can properly rotate when compressed, or something like that

[sweetbmxrider]

Those ****ers rust up pretty quick, prob should have never-seized them. I didn't use them.

[LS1ow]

The coilovers i had on my S4 werent that bad to adjust. I would hit the bearings with WD40 whenever the car was on the lift of i was doing stuff in the well(swapping wheels or fixing headlamp level sensors, ya know typical audi stuff)

I also ran a strip of never seiz up the threaded coil over housing as well.

[The_Bishop]

I spray this stuff on anything I don't want to rust seize:

Amsoil Metal Protector (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/)

Sprays on pretty thin, so it penetrates well, then dries up waxy. This is *awesome* for brake line fittings when they're new, keeps them from becoming one piece later.

[LS1ow]

I spray this stuff on anything I don't want to rust seize:

Amsoil Metal Protector (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/)

Sprays on pretty thin, so it penetrates well, then dries up waxy. This is *awesome* for brake line fittings when they're new, keeps them from becoming one piece later.

That stuff seems pretty legit. Ill pick up a can and hit my coil overs with it, as well as my adjustable suspension components. Thanks !

[LS1ow]

Finally was able to get a pushrod checker. Started short and adjusted to till there was no rock in the rocker.

Like a doofus, measured with a ruler and sat 7.250.

Then after Kirk hit me with a http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/adventuretimewithfinnandjake/images/e/ed/No_Rage_Face.png/revision/latest?cb=20130103081106

I took out the mic and it was really 7.312. Leaving my options at 7.375 for .062 preload, or 7.400 with .088 preload.

[LTb1ow]

You have a 7 inch span mic?

Iamimpress

[LS1ow]

You have a 7 inch span mic?

Iamimpress

No, but Audi Meadowlands does.

[LS1ow]

Ran into few snags when trying to attack the fueling set up.

A- I had to buy an additional fitting for my fuel rails. Im running a Fuel pressure gauge on the passenger side rail, with the cross over line on the rear and the supply line coming into the front of the driver side rail. I shouldnt have any issues with this correct?

Problem B- Went to do the injector seals before installing them into the rails, and 1, just 1, is missing the pintle cap. Which isnt really much of a cap anyway. Pics to follow. But how needed are they? im trying to hunt them down and cant find them on their own.

[LS1ow]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36653549345_4df838e6d4_z.jpg

[KirkEvil]

I think you need that ring to seat the injector correctly. It might push out of the fuel rail up top under pressure too. Get your calipers out and measure ID, OD and wall thickness, then look through plastic washers on mcmaster

[sweetbmxrider]

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt37.pdf

Page 3, I'm surprised at Mr Engineer's response :-?

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Parts-BF08-Cylinder-Injector/dp/B00KFQC9XA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503149532&sr=8-4&keywords=pintle+caps

Send itttttttttt

[LS1ow]

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt37.pdf

Page 3, I'm surprised at Mr Engineer's response :-?

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Parts-BF08-Cylinder-Injector/dp/B00KFQC9XA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503149532&sr=8-4&keywords=pintle+caps

Send itttttttttt

Im not sure if those are the right ones Adam. These injectors dont have full pintle caps like those do. Its more of just a plastic washer/retainer.

Unless im okay swapping them all to having pintle caps?

[sweetbmxrider]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Type-3-Fuel-Injector-EV3-EV6-REBUILD-PINTLE-CAPS-FILTERS-0-RINGS-/201500323841

EV6, mai bad

[LS1ow]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Type-3-Fuel-Injector-EV3-EV6-REBUILD-PINTLE-CAPS-FILTERS-0-RINGS-/201500323841

EV6, mai bad

So many ribs coming your way.

[LS1ow]

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-15031621195582124153371_6b63985fcf566cb67bc872e36c d53b4c5fa9ee1c.jpg

bruh.

[LS1ow]

dropped trans off at Njs premier transmission builder.

[LTb1ow]

Does he like Bailey's in his expresso?

[Blackbirdws6]

orly?

[sweetbmxrider]

But how many shims????

[LS1ow]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/36669732336_9f8456c849_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rof l::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl:

[LS1ow]

...it cant be much worse that a DSG car with a tune... right?





....RIGHT?!

[Blackbirdws6]

Sounds like your seating situation will need further reinforcement.

[sweetbmxrider]

The roll bar is there to catch you. When that breaks, sweet Jesus take the wheel!!!!

[LS1ow]

Pepper my spine ?

[LS1ow]

Lifters, pushrods and rockers are in. Only hand tight however. Torque wrench is 1/2" and it appears my 1/2" 8mm has taken a walk. Ill have to borrow one from a tech today and get these torqued down. Id like to have the valve covers on before i leave for vaca saturday.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36635289261_5262b1e8ee_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/36727343306_22cc2b4869_z.jpg

AN to ORB 90* i needed came in as well so i test fit the rails and they look good. Injector repair kits with new caps came. They are not the cap/washer that is currently on the injector. but i think if i switch all of them to the same style i will be okay. Will update with pics later.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/36727342036_7ea5299d2c_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

:lol: can't win here....

I approve of all lines and fittings being black :nod:

[Blackbirdws6]

Looking good. Sounds like you need a punch list to make sure you tighten all the things. Lots of mock-up. Time to commit!!

[LTb1ow]

Torque stripe all teh things!

[LS1ow]

Looking good. Sounds like you need a punch list to make sure you tighten all the things. Lots of mock-up. Time to commit!!

I have a dry erase with all that stuff on it :lol:

[LS1ow]

Steam vent Tube bolts tq to 106 in/lbs?

[Jersey Mike]

Write it on the windshield like the pros do!! :rofl:

[IROCZman15]

or on a used cardboard pizza box like in roadkill

[LS1ow]

Here are the new style caps i was sent for the injectors

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/36658900561_7aeef0294d_z.jpg

VS the Original

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36653549345_4df838e6d4_z.jpg

All 8 with new caps and rings. These are the #36 pontiac GTP injectors, at LS1 Fuel pressure, they run at #41.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/36658901311_4026f3e02a_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Little upset these aren't RW&B.

[sweetbmxrider]

I'm sure its an updated design :shifty:

[LS1ow]

Little upset these aren't RW&B.

Think I can dye em with RIT dye like plastic RC car parts?

[Blackbirdws6]

Think I can dye em with RIT dye like plastic RC car parts?

You probably could. I would just be scared to mess with them lol.

[LS1ow]

You probably could. I would just be scared to mess with them lol.

Yeah that was mostly sarcasm lmao

[wretched73]

Yeah that was mostly sarcasm lmao

Key word- Mostly lol

[LS1ow]

Forgot to post this one before.

Rockers torqued and Valve covers on. With that, the motor itself is pretty much complete. I have billet coil brackets and some semi gloss black painted coils to go on it was well. Red MSD wires for just a little color. Overall im pretty happy how it looks.



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/35967357874_850f08902f_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

I can see who spec'd this out. Love it man. Looks fantastic.

[LS1ow]

I can see who spec'd this out. Love it man. Looks fantastic.

Someday it will grow big and strong like its older brother.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/35968808164_354e2d8d01_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Looks good man :nod:

[LS1ow]

got home from vaca today, time to buckle down and get this thing hopefully started by the end of the month.

[sweetbmxrider]

Get ittttttttt

[LS1ow]

Coil brackets and coils on. Injectors are in and fuel rails installed for final time.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/36635760640_7ff199ee53_z.jpg

[unstable bob gable]

I'll always like COP ignition systems

[MDSheds_SS]

Looking good man.

[sweetbmxrider]

You should do your best to make the harness as pretty and hidden as possible.

[LS1ow]

You should do your best to make the harness as pretty and hidden as possible.

I was thinking what to do with that. I threw the harness on after i took the pic and it looks terrible. Im thinking i can take it off and run the harness "under" the coil bracket.

[sweetbmxrider]

Yeah that and new loom goes a long way. Worth the few bucks if you can spare some

[LTb1ow]

Summit has their branded fiber spilt loom, looks pretty slick IMO.

If you fall down the rabbit hole... you really can slice and dice the factory harness up nicely. :lol:

[Blackbirdws6]

Summit has their branded fiber spilt loom, looks pretty slick IMO.

If you fall down the rabbit hole... you really can slice and dice the factory harness up nicely. :lol:

He needs to make Racewars. He can save that mess of a project for next year....and then the next year.

[LS1ow]

The time crunch is real.

[wretched73]

Wire loom won't make you faster

[BonzoHansen]

unless an unprotected wire gets damaged, then you might go slower.

[sweetbmxrider]

Its simple enough to do. Up to you my man....

[wretched73]

unless an unprotected wire gets damaged, then you might go slower.

nothing will be unprotected if he just keeps the stock wire loom on there :nick:

[LS1ow]

I have plenty of black loom. Its a "shop Supply" for wire repair at work.

[IROCZman15]

unless an unprotected wire gets damaged, then you might go slower.

hillarious!!

[LTb1ow]

I have plenty of black loom. Its a "shop Supply" for wire repair at work.

Get to cutting.

You only need like two or three sensors, and 8 injectors.

[LS1ow]

Converter has shipped.



Its about to get real as ****.

[MDSheds_SS]

What did you go with?

[LS1ow]

SS4000, I see you have a 4k in your car. How you like?

[MDSheds_SS]

Love it. Tire wrinkle = swag points correct?

[LS1ow]

Love it. Tire wrinkle = swag points correct?

Correct. Guess I'll make up for lack of valve cover breather

[LS1ow]

somehow rear LCA relocation brackets slipped threw the cracks after $2000 in suspension, so those went on order today.

Also picked up a new rear main to do while its out.

[LS1ow]

Just writing this all out for reference.

Immediate to do

-Remove Breathers from VC and swap back to standard oil cap via Jersey Mike, will attempt to route coil harness better while doing so.
-Run Shifter Cable from interior to under the car
-Install Ball joins in Upper Control arms and install
-Take Front end set up off roll around bench and put on dolly, take engine off stand and put on bench

To Do next week when arrives

-Install new rear main + flex plate
-Install new front brake lines
-Install harmonic balance via BTR LS balancer install tool

To do after my trans returns from teh undergroundz

-Admire it while its in 1 piece still
-POR15 that ho
-Mate engine to subframe with the hardware i left at Kirks
-Mate engine trans together on dollies
-Plug in as much as the harness as i can and lay on top
-Put Headers on


Question:

Ive never mated a trans and motor together on a bench, only in the car. And on the car everytime ive just slid the converter into the trans, and then bolted up the trans to the block and tightened up the converter bolts threw were the starter bolts up. Since its on the floor and everything will be more open, would it be easier to bolt the converter up to the flexplate prior to bolting the trans to the motor? Or would there be no way to properly "seat" the converter on the input shaft that way.

[sweetbmxrider]

No, you have to bolt bellhousing up first. You can easily disengage converter from pump and ruin your pump. Check the spacing before you pull converter into flexplate. There's info on the webbers. Remember 3 clicks when seating the converter and to prefill with at least half a quart.

[LS1ow]

No, you have to bolt bellhousing up first. You can easily disengage converter from pump and ruin your pump. Check the spacing before you pull converter into flexplate. There's info on the webbers. Remember 3 clicks when seating the converter and to prefill with at least half a quart.

3 clicks? Of the torque wrench ?

[sweetbmxrider]

Guess its 2 clunk rule :lol:

g3wcwAdkdK4

[LS1ow]

Oh lol ya, I knew that. You forgetting how many times my trans has blown?! I thought you were talking about tightening it, not seating

[Featherburner]

Make sure you have proper gap between the flexplate and the converter before bolting them together.

[LS1ow]

Make sure you have proper gap between the flexplate and the converter before bolting them together.

Really? Even if the converter is built for the trans? I thought all 60e converters would be the same. Good to know !

[LS1ow]

Just writing this all out for reference.

Immediate to do

-Remove Breathers from VC and swap back to standard oil cap via Jersey Mike, will attempt to route coil harness better while doing so.
-Run Shifter Cable from interior to under the car
-Install Ball joins in Upper Control arms and install
-Take Front end set up off roll around bench and put on dolly, take engine off stand and put on bench



Breathers have been removed from valve covers and ball joints have been installed.

[Featherburner]

Really? Even if the converter is built for the trans? I thought all 60e converters would be the same. Good to know !

I don't know if Yank gives that info with their converters. I would hope so. The last converter I bought from Circle-D had literature with the proper gap.

[LTb1ow]

Jake's used to have a solid document on the various spacing you needed for various trans/verter combos

[sweetbmxrider]

No, you have to bolt bellhousing up first. You can easily disengage converter from pump and ruin your pump. Check the spacing before you pull converter into flexplate. There's info on the webbers. Remember 3 clicks when seating the converter and to prefill with at least half a quart.

Y u no take notes on wut I sey?

[LTb1ow]

The old “3 clicks” method is not an accurate way to determine if the converter is correctly installed. There MUST be clearance between the converter and flexplate when the trans is bolted to the engine. In a perfect world this would be 1/8″ or .125″ everytime, and you just bolt it up and go. In the real world, we have to check it and make adjustments as necessary.
On a typical GM engine, the flexplate mounting pads are 1″ away from the bellhousing flange area of the block. The converter pads when seated completely will be approximately 1 and 1/8th inch ( 1.125″)recessed into the bellhousing. Seat the converter, then measure the distance from the engine block bellhousing mating flange, to the mounting pad on the flexplate.

Then do the same from the transmission bellhousing mating face, to the converter mounting pads. You should have the converter sitting deeper than the flexplate protrudes from the engine. If so, you can now bolt the transmission to the engine. With the trans bolted to the engine, you should be able to turn the converter freely. Check the distance from the converter to the flexplate with the converter completely seated into the transmission. You should have 1/8″ to 3/16″ clearance. (.125″-.187″) If it is more than 3/16″, you should use flat ground washers to shim between the flexplate and converter.

[LS1ow]

Y u no take notes on wut I sey?

4L60E= 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads.

Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.


Seems most legit ?

[LS1ow]

bruh we posted the same info at the same time

[sweetbmxrider]

Yeah that's wayyy too precise for me but go for it :lol:

[Blackbirdws6]

I thought this LS stuff was like legos. What is this measuring nonsense?

[LS1ow]

5 pin MAF harness came today, thought i would receive my BTR Dampener install tool today as well but it doesn't appear so. Hopefully that shows tmmr along with my Y pipe. So then i can throw the pulley on and figure out belt length.

[LS1ow]

Coil Harness wrapped in felt wire tape on the individual plug sections, and wire loom across the main section of it. The billet coil brackets run flat across, so i was actually able to run the harness under the bracket pretty much hiding it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/36381432513_567817fe35_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36381432533_34f223b67e_z.jpg

[wretched73]

Nice and clean, looks good

[LS1ow]

Nice and clean, looks good

Thanks, whole time i was doing it i was thinking "wow, one less thing for jersey mike to give me **** about"

[Jersey Mike]

Coil Harness wrapped in felt wire tape on the individual plug sections, and wire loom across the main section of it. The billet coil brackets run flat across, so i was actually able to run the harness under the bracket pretty much hiding it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/36381432513_567817fe35_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36381432533_34f223b67e_z.jpg
This is phenomenal. #Impress.jpg

Thanks, whole time i was doing it i was thinking "wow, one less thing for jersey mike to give me **** about"
:kneeslap: I'm in your head! :lol: I gotta copy you on this one I think, Mick!

[Blackbirdws6]

Very nice. I will need you to swing by and give ol Shamu a wrap job.

[LS1ow]

So if the inlet on something is say 4.17", should i go with a 4.00" Coupler and stretch it, or go with a 4.25" and clamp her.

Looking to get a silicon coupler for MAF to 92mm TB

[PolarBear]

I think it's easier to clamp, than it is to stretch since the silicone couplers are cord reinforced it gets pretty difficult

[Blackbirdws6]

^^ As bear said, harder to stretch the reinforced couplers. I would go a touch bigger and clamp it.

[Jersey Mike]

I went bigger

[sweetbmxrider]

Nice wiring, cut the fuggin blue safety clips :lol:

[MDSheds_SS]

So if the inlet on something is say 4.17", should i go with a 4.00" Coupler and stretch it, or go with a 4.25" and clamp her.

Looking to get a silicon coupler for MAF to 92mm TB

Am I missing something? 4" = 101.xxx mm
92mm = 3.6xxx
I have a 102 TB with 4" coupler from vibrant along with a 102 MAF and 4" 90
Slides right on no issues at all. If you go to big it will look like the skinny guy that is wearing his chubby brothers jeans with a belt.

[qwikz28]

Nice wiring, cut the fuggin blue safety clips :lol:

Or at least paint them black!

[ar0ck]

Coming along nicely!

[LS1ow]

Am I missing something? 4" = 101.xxx mm
92mm = 3.6xxx
I have a 102 TB with 4" coupler from vibrant along with a 102 MAF and 4" 90
Slides right on no issues at all. If you go to big it will look like the skinny guy that is wearing his chubby brothers jeans with a belt.

The TB "flap" is 92mm, the outside diameter is 4.15" i believe. OD on the 102 and 92 are the same me thinks

[Jersey Mike]

Or at least paint them black!

Do not recommend.

[Featherburner]

Do not recommend.
Do you recommend painting the injectors black?:lol:

[LS1ow]

I was fighting with my self to cut the safety clips off the entire time i was doing it and it took all of me to convince myself not to lmao I wasnt sure if they would actualyl be able to shake themselves loose with a cammed motor on solid mounts.

...i guess well find out of they do.

[LS1ow]

BTR Dampener installer didnt show till yesterday, i guess delay bc the storm? I should have time today to throw that on.

Banjo bolts and washers for brake lines showed as well, along with rear main. So today ill be throwing the brake lines in, double checking all bolts/ball joint nuts and then get the front end on the dolly and motor on the bench to do Rear main and put flexplate on.

[LS1ow]

Crank pulley is seated. BTR install tool made it a breeze. Dont waste time with any of the rental ones, just spend the $40 and get the LS specific one. I know the bolt isnt in the the pic, but i threw that in there as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/36835568830_a507623771_z.jpg

Its nice to have a I beam mounted crane inside as well :mrgreen:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37043075886_e1bd23e55e_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/37233666535_f03fb977f1_z.jpg