Not this again.

[Blackbirdws6]

Better get a level 85 60e in her and a rear cover with those little cap supports.

[LS1ow]

this thread will be picking up again later this week...but till then, lettuce have a preview of whats to come.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/47113650691_d4d3d89bc8_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Orly?? "We are in the end game now" chief.

[sweetbmxrider]

https://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg190/sweetbmxrider/addtext_com_MDA0NzEzMTM0Ng_zpshtcg7b6n.jpg

I feel like it got lost in the last page....

[Jersey Mike]

Every time a Beggar sprays, a 12 Bolt gets its wings.

[LS1ow]

first, i want to say thanks to my friend Lance aka "Team ****box" and nitrous express for hooking me up with an awesome deal on all my NX products. Hes got a baaaaad 3rd gen. Those of you with instagram or facebook may regognise the car from some uhmmm videos. Or some of you may remember seeing him on the Netflix show "Fastest Car" or on an episode of street outlaws were NY drove down to race. Thank you also to nitrous express for all the help and advice. If anyone needs any nitrous stuff, shoot me a pm.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7921/40246401823_1cdb230ee1_z.jpg

This past week i walked back in to work from lunch and was greated by these :mrgreen:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7877/47201376141_7ea12bb954_z.jpg

Those 2 boxes contained a NX 4 bolt LS plate system(which is listed as 90mm, but actually is 92mm, so it will work with both a 90mm and a 92mm, like i have. In the second box, a NX GenX accessory kit, NX Electronic TPS/WOT switch and a new to market NX Maximizer EZ progressive nitrous controller. Ill also be using a Nitrous Outlet trans tunnel bottle mounting bracket, didnt grab a photo of the box.

TPS/WOT Switch and Progressive Controller
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7920/47113476401_3ffecf3f52_z.jpg

10lb Bottle with new lightning 500 bottle valve
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7828/32259175587_6fc6bf8f95_z.jpg

ProPower Lightning Series Solenoids
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/46477898784_905884a724_z.jpg

Billet 4 Bolt LS plate
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7828/47149547252_8d19365ba4_z.jpg

System also included bottle brackets, arming switches, mechanical WOT switch, wiring, relays, connectors, noid brackets, and all needed feed lines from the bottle to the noids and the noids to the plates. As well as detailed intructions, jets for 50-400hp, stickers, license plate frames, and a t shirt.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7890/40236611903_82384abbae_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

Also got there GEN X Accessory package, which includes all the stuff youll want to run hand in hand with the nitrous kit.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7836/40236611743_5b6583648e_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7811/33325932148_35a0513ec8_z.jpg

Included in the kit is:

- Bottle Heater (not in picture)
- Bottle pressure gauge
- Fuel pressure Safety Switch
- NHRA Blow Down Tube Fitting
- Blow Down Tube
- Purge Kit

[LTb1ow]

200hp jets going in right?

[LS1ow]

200hp jets going in right?

sadly no, i spoke to Ed Curtis. He said with the current cam(his cam) dont go over 150. So were going to start with 100 and see how far you and shamu are still out on me.

[LS1ow]

Bottle brackets installed to Nitrous Outlet trans tunnel bracket.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7891/47158585072_0c3ce32951_z.jpg

strapped bottle in just for luls. waiting on second set of hands to install bracket into car. Have holes drilled already, but need someone to turn the bolt while im under the car with a wrench. I didnt think self tappers were a good idea here lol

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7917/47158585112_977bd722e8_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

the plate comes tapped for fittings on both sides, so in the future upgrading to a second stage will be possible with just another set of solenoids and lines. But i do not think that will be happening anytime soon lol

Originally i planned on running fuel into 1 side and nitrous into the other, to keep some sort of symmetry like this..


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/46477898764_0d9a50031d_z.jpg

but after checking in with NX they said if only running 1 stage it has to come in the from the same side. So i swapped it over to the driver side. Was going to go passenger side, but didnt want to clutter that side with the throttle cabe and catch can already there.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/33335263838_076856a41e_z.jpg


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7825/33335263858_977fd7088c_z.jpg

thats all for now. Need to get the bottle mounted in the car, and then figure out how i want to mount the solenoids.

[Blackbirdws6]

No hard line? What the hell build is this?

Looks like you are going to have some fun. Better keep that bottle pressure up!

[LS1ow]

No hard line? What the hell build is this?

Looks like you are going to have some fun. Better keep that bottle pressure up!

hardline kit may be happeing. Didnt want to drop the extra coin for hardline kit and fancy billet bracket...

But to beat the cherry you must become the cherry.

[sweetbmxrider]

I think I still have the dies to do 37.5 degree flares aka plumb yo **** in shiny hardline....

Is the bottle going to be moar murica?

[IROCZman15]

nice. It will be fun. My 100 shot is fun, but the 150 shot is much more fun and surprisingly feels really good in the seat. I don't run a progressive controller (yet) since its only a 100-150 shot, and everything has been working fine. With the next engine and 1 stage for 200-250 shot, i'll run a progressive controller...in fact the holley sniper efi is already setup for this so I'm basically set.

did you get "colder" spark plugs? you are going to want to drp yoru plugs a heat range or two.

When bolting in the bracket through the trans tunnel, trim your bolts down after they are in, or use the shortest bolts possible. the rear one on my drivers side looked like it wouldn't have a problem with clearance, but i guess as the suspension traveled enough, the torque arm made contact with it, and the bolt scratched up my S&W tubular torque arm. I noticed that and zipped down the protruding length of all four bottle bracket mount bolts accordingly.

Do you have a place that will fill your bottles for ya. I go to Bruces speed shop on rt 46 in Rockaway. Keep in mind, SOME places require you to have a permit to posses nitrous-oxide. you have to get it from the state of NJ. its good for two years and then you have to renew it for like $35. I just renewed mine. Some fill-up shops won't check, but some (bruces) like to have your permit on file. I wish i could find a place local to m that has cheaper fillups though. $55 a full fill gets expensive.

anyways, enjoy, it sure if fun to hit the button.

[LS1ow]

I think I still have the dies to do 37.5 degree flares aka plumb yo **** in shiny hardline....

Is the bottle going to be moar murica?

got in touch with NX in regard to their hardline kit, theres one on the way.:wink:

i wanted to do something sick on the bottle but the damn heater covers it all. i have another idea in mind.

nice. It will be fun. My 100 shot is fun, but the 150 shot is much more fun and surprisingly feels really good in the seat. I don't run a progressive controller (yet) since its only a 100-150 shot, and everything has been working fine. With the next engine and 1 stage for 200-250 shot, i'll run a progressive controller...in fact the holley sniper efi is already setup for this so I'm basically set.

did you get "colder" spark plugs? you are going to want to drp yoru plugs a heat range or two.

When bolting in the bracket through the trans tunnel, trim your bolts down after they are in, or use the shortest bolts possible. the rear one on my drivers side looked like it wouldn't have a problem with clearance, but i guess as the suspension traveled enough, the torque arm made contact with it, and the bolt scratched up my S&W tubular torque arm. I noticed that and zipped down the protruding length of all four bottle bracket mount bolts accordingly.

Do you have a place that will fill your bottles for ya. I go to Bruces speed shop on rt 46 in Rockaway. Keep in mind, SOME places require you to have a permit to posses nitrous-oxide. you have to get it from the state of NJ. its good for two years and then you have to renew it for like $35. I just renewed mine. Some fill-up shops won't check, but some (bruces) like to have your permit on file. I wish i could find a place local to m that has cheaper fillups though. $55 a full fill gets expensive.

anyways, enjoy, it sure if fun to hit the button.

-The progressive controller will hopefully let the stock bottom end have a few more happy days than without. Im really hoping ramping the spay in lets my 10bolt and 60e not get turned to dust. Id like to make a few on spray passes with the 10 bolt to try to keep the car as light as possible.

-will be swapping to BR7EFs

-thanks for the heads up! With that in mind, ill prob just run the bolt up into the car and instead of bolt down to nut under the car.

-Theres 2 places within 10 mins of me. One being a pep boys, and the other is Spencer Speed. Mainly a motorcycle shop, but they do hot rods as well. How'd you go about getting the permit?

[IROCZman15]

sounds good. you got it all covered then. keep us updated

the permit is through:
New Jersey Department of Health
Consumer and Enviornmental Health Services.
P.O. box 369, Trenton, Nj 08625
(reading off of my current permit)


I used to have the phone number for their division, but not anymore. They make you go through all these dumb phone sub-menus and prompts. If you think you might need it, it is worth the effort as a CYA. police wont bust you for it (there is no actual specific motor vehicle statute about having/not having a nitrous tank in the car. or even using it) but really only for filling up the bottle at locations that are picky about it.

on the actual permit application the options you pick from are something like Medical office, research, lab testing, or race car. check that race-car box and drop it in the mail with a certified bank check or money order (no personal check) and you are done.

let me know what pep boys charges for a bottle fill up. I am wondering if it might make sense for me to get a second bottle and fill up both at a time instead of just filling up one every time im low. also, which pep boys location?

[KirkEvil]

got in touch with NX in regard to their hardline kit, theres one on the way.:wink:

i wanted to do something sick on the bottle but the damn heater covers it all. i have another idea in mind.



https://i.pinimg.com/736x/3c/ec/78/3cec78aee24399009185cb9cb61a80a4.jpg

[LS1ow]

Currently trying to set up myWOT/TPS window switch and just want to double check before i make any mistakes. Heres the diagram for the switch...

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7823/46499009954_91f1b2ee07_z.jpg


White Wire
it says either mechanical WOT switch, or + output from TPS. I should be able to use a T tap into the TPS harness, no biggie. but im a bit thrown off by the "+ output from TPS" I would assume that means positive output. Which would be pin 8, gray wire out of the PCM. But since it has to read throttle position, shouldn't i want it tapped into signal wire from the TPS? (dark blue, PCM pin 24)

Grey Wire
RPM signal, so just run a T tap into pin 10 off the PCM ?

[Blackbirdws6]

Pin 24 for TPS, Pin 10 for tach should do it.

[sweetbmxrider]

Pin 8 is 5 volt reference on Blue pcm connector. They want a tps signal wire that is read via positive polarity. Some can be negative polarity and wouldn't work hence the mechanical switch.

As bls said, pin 24 for tps and 10 for tach on the Red pcm connector are what you want.

[IROCZman15]

does the NX controller unit do spark timing retard? I don't use a controller unit like that.. so I am unaware. Instead I have my MSD Digital-6 ignition box tied into the nitrous wires, so when I hit the button, it signals the msd box to delay timing 4 deg (100 shot) or 6 deg(150 shot).
Figured I would mention it to you, but you probably already knew to retard timing 2 degrees for each 50 hp shot you are spraying.

[LTb1ow]

Slower spark means slower car, Beggz will be advancing spark for teh maximal 'Merica tailpipe action

[Blackbirdws6]

If you don't go for the 200 shot.

https://i.imgflip.com/eer25.gif (https://imgflip.com/gif/eer25)

[sweetbmxrider]

200 shot be like


https://media1.tenor.com/images/636a1dac36f3fb63c50ba7ab48d3842b/tenor.gif?itemid=11705754

[wretched73]

Slower spark means slower car, Beggz will be advancing spark for teh maximal 'Merica tailpipe action

Make sure those ring gaps stay tight too, don't want to lose any power past the rings

[LS1ow]

lright here whats been happening over the past week. I haven’t had much time since im getting f-ed with work. But ive managed to get a few things done.



The newer style valve has 2 NPT ports in it…



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7853/33418276728_8bd721b8c5_z.jpg



So one side gets the pressure gauge…



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7868/40329326923_1f631e0938_z.jpg



And the other gets the bottle heater pressure sensor…



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7812/46570774834_6a3598ba9f_z.jpg



And opposite the supply line exit, goes the fitting for the blow down tube… bc safety is my middle name !



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7925/47293893331_73d92c52b7_z.jpg



Got the bottle bracket mounted and tossed it in to start the wiring…



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/33418277268_e571051c7a_z.jpg



Originally planned to pull fuel from the port on the passenger side head, but was advised by NX to pull it from the feed into the rail, so ordered up a male to male -8 AN fitting with a NPT port on the side so I can pull fuel from there. I don’t like how the fittings are “stacked” so im waiting to hear from the guy that made them if he can make me a fuel rail inlet fitting with the 1/8th npt.



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7849/47241716882_2dcafa360f_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Progress is progress!

[MDSheds_SS]

I put a tee right off the main feed coming from the tank. Run goes to the rail and the bull goes to fuel solenoid. Tucks down low and out of the way.

[LS1ow]

I put a tee right off the main feed coming from the tank. Run goes to the rail and the bull goes to fuel solenoid. Tucks down low and out of the way.

Had to google what a “run” and “bull” were. I don’t work with pipe everyday, just lay it most evenings. :wink:

[LTb1ow]

Where is the fancy LED purge light show pics?

[LS1ow]

Many a thing has happened since last update. Work has been terrible lately, so ive only had about 20-30 mins a day to work on the car, if any.

Got these nice pieces in the mail...

Aluminum Solenoid bracket for LS Manifolds:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7882/33540866208_109b0c131d_z.jpg

Hardline Kit for the Fast manifold plate kit:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7853/46693482814_f437e48606_z.jpg

I actually ran into a few days of down time due to the hardline kit. I could not get them to work at all. No matter what i did. After a few back and forth convos with the guys at Nitrous Express, they came to the conclusion they accidentally sent me a line kit for a LS3 manifold and not a LS/Fast. They overnighted me a new line kit, and everything was perfect.

while trying to figure out the hardline kit issue, tossed the fuel pressure sensor into a 1/8th NPT port AN fitting.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7846/32474628527_f498d30850_z.jpg

and installed right were the main fuel line feeds to the rail.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7895/46693482844_642cab2f27_z.jpg

and also made a little harness for the solenoid and purge wires, so they can be tucked away nicely.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/33540866218_6e80d69400_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Is it ready for 9s yet?

[MDSheds_SS]

9s on a 10 bolt?? I’d sign up to see that! Setup looks sick man, can’t wait to see what she does

[LS1ow]

Is it ready for 9s yet?

Harpoons will be mounted, just waiting to decide if should face forwards or backward.

9s on a 10 bolt?? I’d sign up to see that! Setup looks sick man, can’t wait to see what she does

Were gunna try it, but no promises.

[sweetbmxrider]

Forwards, that's where the nitrous goes boom

[The_Bishop]

I haven't recently seen a more neatly setup way to scatter a 10 bolt across a track. Well done.

[MDSheds_SS]

The 10 bolt will be fine if he puts the right ramp in the controller. Full Send outta the hole, bye bye 10 bolt.

[LS1ow]

The 10 bolt will be fine if he puts the right ramp in the control.

Is that a dare?

[The_Bishop]

Sounded like a double dog dare, to me.

[LS1ow]

nothing to do with nitrous, but in an effort to help clean up the engine bay a bit i got a fancy stainless overflow tank to replace the plastic one which just looked weird now since there is no battery there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7913/47514250781_5a5b880feb_z.jpg

and immediately decided this is way to shiny and hit it with some VHT wrinkle black.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7908/47461480812_72f0fa2854_z.jpg

and then i thought it would be odd to have a wrinkle black coolant puke tank next to a shiny black oil catch can, so that got the same treatment.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7848/47514250871_cb022a37d7_z.jpg

side note, there was literally no oil in the catch can. some residue.

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks great. Nice to see progress being made as I seem to just toil for hours in the garage with next to none.

[LS1ow]

Looks great. Nice to see progress being made as I seem to just toil for hours in the garage with next to none.

i actually ended up finishing up the wiring while waiting for the paint to dry. In theory, nitrous install is complete. Just need to fill the bottle and check for leaks

[LS1ow]

This was fun to make work.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7816/32571987707_0bd31a8d4e_z.jpg

made a new switch panel out of ABS. Went with a bit thicker this time incase i have to smash the purge at a light on some haters.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7918/47461480432_2304c95a3a_z.jpg

radio bezel back on and ready to rock.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7835/32571988107_52ea00e65c_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Needs moar radio knob

[LS1ow]

Needs moar radio knob

I actually have one from Hadji. It’s been in the center consol of my truck since the day after I got it. The truck, not the knob. Haven’t taken it out yet.

You never know what extra gram it will be to pull you back that 10th

[LTb1ow]

I approve.

Very happy to see it all coming out so clean man

[LS1ow]

Hopefully this helps get the car out the hole a little quicker... a 1.3x" on a 10 bolt possible?

https://live.staticflickr.com/7830/46819162404_9c3ed377e1_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Hopefully this helps get the car out the hole a little quicker... a 1.3x" on a 10 bolt possible?

https://live.staticflickr.com/7830/46819162404_9c3ed377e1_z.jpg

If it was red it would do it. With black, prob a 1.4.

[LS1ow]

If it was red it would do it. With black, prob a 1.4.

i wish fbody stuff came in more colors than red or black. so boring.

[Blackbirdws6]

i wish fbody stuff came in more colors than red or black. so boring.

They can. Just need to spend the $ to get it bare/stripped and powdered to your hearts content.

[LS1ow]

They can. Just need to spend the $ to get it bare/stripped and powdered to your hearts content.

https://ih1.redbubble.net/image.311929924.5825/pp,550x550.jpg

[MDSheds_SS]

Hope it helps, didn’t do **** for me. Waste of money. Mines collecting dust on the garage wall.

[sweetbmxrider]

If it was red, white, and blue......1.0x

[LS1ow]

Hope it helps, didn’t do **** for me. Waste of money. Mines collecting dust on the garage wall.


i wish i knew this. i would have bought it

[LS1ow]

Fancy dual swivel end -4 hose for nitrous fuel feed came in yesterday. Pretty much the last piece of the puzzle. Other than the blow down tube... which i seem to have lost.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7836/40576914483_c86a1fb49d_z.jpg

[Jersey Mike]

You havent heard of spray paint? One guy made his trans pan pink. Where there's a lulz there's a way

[Jersey Mike]

Also I have a blow down tube still in the packaging. Amazon 2 Day may be faster than you driving to the suburbs but if you want it let me know and I'll leave it out for you

[LS1ow]

took a page out of the book of kohler, and used the inner fender well and random holes in frame to run feed line. It comes from the bottle, through the rubber grommet in the rear seat well, ran along the pinch weld with wire holders,then up the fender well secured with wire holders as well. Currently i have it coming in to the bay were the LT1s have the fuel lines(i think) coming in.

Eventually, which will prob be before the car sees the track, i would like to get a shorter feed line. I dont like how it runs across the bay from the tower to to the intake, but if i ran it the way i wanted to originally, i would have a ton of line coiled up. Which i figured is a bad thing.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7914/46627450715_10a56aed71_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7849/47542737011_0a9c8213af_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7814/47542738041_2b2f65a953_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Be careful on the turn where it comes into the engine bay. Secure the line, or grommet it well.

[Blackbirdws6]

Please remove the leaf sitting in the door please. Thanks.

[LS1ow]

Be careful on the turn where it comes into the engine bay. Secure the line, or grommet it well.

grommet is en route from prime.

Please remove the leaf sitting in the door please. Thanks.

nope, just gunna paint it black

[Blackbirdws6]

nope, just gunna paint it black

You'll need the weight savings.

[LS1ow]

Short of a vacuuming, bottle mounting and stuff is done. Which exception of the blow down tube, bc missing.

Window Switch and progressive controller mounted on the side of the bottle bracket for easy access of use. Ran feed line through the cup holder to avoid any crazy bends in the line. Figured may as well run the wires for the heater pressure sensor there as well. Loomed everything the best i could. There is a ton of wires in a small area, all of which are going different ways. so its a bit sloppy. May redo at some point, but good enough for now. Going to get a small piece of PVC and cut it in half long ways to create like a tunnel for the wires that run under the console, and then recarpet over it. As you can see i cut off to much carpet between bottle mount and console.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7842/46819164654_0dd96db779_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7866/47490018622_c70375e6bb_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Looks pretty race car

[Blackbirdws6]

Nitrous plumbing/wiring seems to always be a bit messy so don't feel bad. Access to the important stuff looks good and it will work so keep it moving.....and yes, please vacuum the area.

[sweetbmxrider]

I'd run a couple more beads of weld on the intake. Nice job brah.

[Jersey Mike]

I like that console idea. Those rear cupholders are ****ing useless.

[LS1ow]

Everything is pretty much done. However i do think a hardline may be in order instead of the black AN for the fuel. Should look much better once i put everything else back together. Such as the harness and catch can wires that are just sphaggeti'd everywhere

https://live.staticflickr.com/7921/32606662897_27b660b4e1_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7908/32606662887_6c1afd7fa8_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7852/47496360002_50bf85e5f8_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7887/47496360022_67447b79eb_z.jpg

[Jersey Mike]

Who are you and what have you done with the Beggs I knew

[LS1ow]

Who are you and what have you done with the Beggs I knew

Oh you just wait.

[sweetbmxrider]

Hardline would look good there and on the purge.....Too bad you didn't invest in the mastercool flaring kit with -an dies :lol:

[LS1ow]

Hardline would look good there and on the purge.....Too bad you didn't invest in the mastercool flaring kit with -an dies :lol:

Purge is hardlined, it’s just wrapped in wire loom Bc the line isn’t the same color or the plate lines

[sweetbmxrider]

:shifty:

[LS1ow]

Who are you and what have you done with the Beggs I knew


https://media.giphy.com/media/b6iVj3IM54Abm/giphy.gif



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47771860671_edfc142867_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Yesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss

[wretched73]

https://media.giphy.com/media/3oEdv6sy3ulljPMGdy/giphy.gif

[MDSheds_SS]

Making room for turbos?

[sweetbmxrider]

Cam swap?

[Blackbirdws6]

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/JollyShowyAegeancat-size_restricted.gif

[Jersey Mike]

Oh okay.

[KirkEvil]

http://www.quickmeme.com/img/81/81a73174104aeec3081dfedbe5773129f75e401740c2840977 c2f8bce0719219.jpg

[LS1ow]

So here is how we got to that previous pic, and some of the progress from that.

No turbo or anything yet... just trying to get a the most weight out of it as i can. Pending how the car does/lasts/lulz maybe a boosted set up is in the future. but for now, it is staying a cam only car on a small shot at the track:nick:

For some reason, i opted to be an adult about things and drill out the spot welds instead of just dat plasma.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828309337_816cc25f42_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828307747_8caa982621_z.jpg

From there, slashed out the rad support ends on each side. As you will see, im keeping the front corners of the factory support. Besides my hood pins being there, everything is mounted off that one bracket. fender, bumper, fog lights and headlights. I thought the extra 2lbs of factory bracketry would be worth the hassle of not having to build and locate all that from nothing. I will just eat 1 less cheeseburger a week to save some lbs.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828309097_0fe83b032e_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828309427_2156a696d5_z.jpg

Before decapitation i tac'd some pencil rod from the corner of the og rad support to the shock tower to keep it from flopping around aimlessly. I also threw a plate on each shock tower. Originally planned on running a tube from there down to the main hoop the rad will be on, but now i am not sure if i will.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828309217_61a0ebbcdb_z.jpg


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46982698034_cd4b4faf09_z.jpg

and then the frame rails themselves.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46982698434_91bce861f0_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

after than i began to clean up the edges and clear all the paint off them to get a nice surface to weld on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47771862911_f9f909a90a_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47771860401_45404e1d62_z.jpg

Then shaped some plates to cap off the holes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46855520645_db1d4bac67_z.jpg

and tac'd them in place.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47719488942_449577956f_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46982698114_f417ef20c6_z.jpg

and finally welded em in and welded up all the seams that were in the area while in there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33894861198_3dd126b1d0_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47771862341_e2287c59d6_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46982698214_98aaa9720c_z.jpg

and now we are here.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32828309417_bd7eb635d4_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

That's a good amount of work. Well done. I'd run it just like that.

[LTb1ow]

Just add a nice off road bumper and start demo derby'ing it!

[sweetbmxrider]

Its the perfect spot for one of those tip indicators during shipping. You know, to monitor chassis twist off of the line

[LS1ow]

I do have an extra gauge spot, should i put a clinometer?

[Blackbirdws6]

I do have an extra gauge spot, should i put a clinometer?

http://lstwo.com/images/15693344883684900684.gif

[sweetbmxrider]

Only if when the wheels go up, the panties drop on the gauge....

[Blackbirdws6]

Only if when the wheels go up, the panties drop on the gauge....

I would have accepted the raising of the American flag as well.

[LS1ow]

had a little more time the other day to get at it.

Modified the headlight brackets to work with how it will be set up, and hit them with some paint.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46901101115_349d77e8ae_z.jpg

made myself some giant handle bars. All bending dont just off reference points and eye. I dont know how to calculate bends or any of that stuff. Hell my bender is so old the degree marks on it are worn off so its kinda just all by eye. It came out pretty good for the first try. I made this out of black iron pipe i had sitting. I didnt want to waste the DOM if i made a mistake. Its pretty close off just eye. Youll see the bend in the middle for the bumper "peak" is a little off, but that can easily be corrected when i go at it with the DOM.

I did learn it is better to under bend than over bend... you can unscramble an egg!



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46901101065_768dfb80f9_z.jpg


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33940242208_b42957f9d8_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47817491261_8d57a06aaf_z.jpg

this pic if just laying ontop of it all, but you get the idea. Pipe will be welded to the endplates on both sides the corners of the former had support. And bumper mounting taps will sit under bumper. Well also pick up factory light bracket mounting spots with the modded brackets.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40851034393_b5e5530fbe_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Nicely done, begsters

[IROCZman15]

what do you anticipate the overall weight loss will be when its all finished up?

[LS1ow]

what do you anticipate the overall weight loss will be when its all finished up?

Im hoping about 30-40lbs.

The RSM kit says you get about 60lbs, but they are including the bumper support with it. I already ditched that. The RSM kit looks awesome, and if it wasnt ChroMo prob would have just went with that. But as of now, im about $120 in material into this, vs $500 from RSM.

I still have everything that was cut off the car, when its all done i will weight that vs the amount of DOM used.

[LTb1ow]

You should just stand radiator vertical now up front.

[LS1ow]

You should just stand radiator vertical now up front.

I wanted to, but lack intake clearance with the stock rad stood up. I didnt want to spend $500 on a rad and fans right now. If the car evolves to the next level(hood stack) then i will drop the coin for a shorter but thicc'r rad to that will help with cooling on the next step(hood stack)

[LS1ow]

jk, change of plans.

Griffen rad on the way.

[LTb1ow]

Flip dem manifolds boi!

[LS1ow]

Flip dem manifolds boi!

boy, if i come across a used turbo set up within driving distance for a decent price then man the harpoons

[Blackbirdws6]

boy, if i come across a used turbo set up within driving distance for a decent price then man the harpoons

https://i.imgur.com/5rFHxpW.jpg

[LS1ow]

https://i.imgur.com/5rFHxpW.jpg

You have my respect BLS, i hope they remember you.

[LS1ow]

Had some time yesterday so i went back and redid the handle bar/bumper support in the DOM tube.

Decided to change it up a bit instead of doing 2 90*ish bends like the template. Came out pretty good. Still has to be fit to the plates, but the shape is on point. Did everything by eye on the first side, then used an angle finder to replicate on other side.

Front bumper peak thing comes out to a 22* bend. then a 50* bend to slope it back to the headlight bracket pick up, and then from there a 60* bend to get it straight on to the plates.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32911637577_21f741d809_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47855754771_4e87036437_z.jpg

Today will prob weld the needed tabs on and get it fit in place. Im not going to weld in place until the rad support is done

[KirkEvil]

Fabrication is looking good. I would not trust the fender sheet metal to support everything. Whats the plan to tie that front bar into the frame rails?

[LS1ow]

Fabrication is looking good. I would not trust the fender sheet metal to support everything. Whats the plan to tie that front bar into the frame rails?

Run 1" tube from the soon to be built rad support. something like this.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40890544613_a1ae6d23bf_z.jpg

[LS1ow]

Tac'd the tabs to grab the bumper onto the tube to make sure its all good.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47810472432_bb9551f379_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Solid IG pic right there

[LS1ow]

Rad and stuff came in yesterday, then swung up by my buddy to get the mounting points and vent bung welded on.

Been struggling on how to get this thing mounted in the car, so i went with this way. Purchased 3 1/2-13 threaded aluminum bungs. Ground down a section of the channel at the top of the rad do they would sit out on the lip a bit, and welded them in place. Sadly they are 7075 aluminum, so they didnt come out as pretty. But itll get the job done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47080701384_24c2e43a56_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47080701534_e51ba9826b_z.jpg

The 6061 welds much much nicer.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33992853388_b7b15927c8_z.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Mmmmhmmm.......dat brushed

[LTb1ow]

Those three pieces are the only thing supporting the rad?

[sweetbmxrider]

Yeah I would have made mounting points for the zip ties on the bottom, too.

[LTb1ow]

Yeah I would have made mounting points for the zip ties on the bottom, too.

Zip ties handle fatigue better than aluminum does. :bertstare:

[LS1ow]

Those three pieces are the only thing supporting the rad?

No, it’ll sit in a channel with rubber pads at the bottom. These are just hold it from coming out of the channel.

[The_Bishop]

There going to be some rubber bushings in those top mounts? If they're bolted solid, still going to be a ****ton of vibration transmitted to the radiator, as well as the expansion/contraction stresses of two different metals.

[LS1ow]

There going to be some rubber bushings in those top mounts? If they're bolted solid, still going to be a ****ton of vibration transmitted to the radiator, as well as the expansion/contraction stresses of two different metals.

didnt plan on doing that, but if we can brainstorm a way to make that happen at this stage then id be for it.

There is a 30 page thread on tech of people swapping to stand up rad, i kinda just went off all those ideas and crafted it to make it work for me. Most people had the same weld on bungs, but instead of them sitting horizontal like mine, they were verticial in the middle of the channel.

EDIT: Looking back close at some of the pics, it looks like there are small rubber washers.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/1297x975/image3_7__31dede6ac3fc67ba3ce183cde0e273d0baef401b .jpg

Maybe drill out the hole in the tab 1 size up and fit a rubber grommet into it? So then the bolt passes threw the grommet on the tab and then picks up the rad?

[KirkEvil]

definitely agree with pals on rubber bushings between the top radiator if you keep those mounts. Even then, if those rad flanges fatigue you might crack open the top core row over time.

Make a separate bolt-on brace with rubber isolators for the top an bottom. I used aluminum U channel and haxors to cup the radiator
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww42/KirkEvil/NJFBOA/Because%20Racecar/IMG_20131026_142705_zpscd91bc55.jpg

[LS1ow]

Did some more work over the weekend. Actually got a lot done considering the amount of time i had.

Conveniently, this mach 1 mustang wheel and tire gave the rad a perfect height, so i used it as a stand for it while building.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46958259155_5322500034_z.jpg

Bent up some tube to come off the frame rail and drop down to grab the bottom of the rad. Cut the top of the tube at a slight angle to pitch it towards the middle so there wasnt a 27" rad in a 35" space.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33997246308_01f1862e3a_z.jpg

then replicated it on the other side.



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40908015983_4acc9b9e30_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33997246358_1920542f4d_z.jpg

Modified some rad brackets to bend around the bottom tube i will be using to support the rad. just used a piece of scrap tube and bend them around it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837498182_56824f4d4e_z.jpg

Then i notched up the tube that will run across. Notching without a notcher is a pain, but needed to be done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837503282_ac3d963f58_z.jpg

then tac'd it, and the rad brackets, in place.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837502872_34b798b556_z.jpg

huzzah.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47100109914_0b6d490fae_z.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Did I miss where the turbo is?

[sweetbmxrider]

Did I miss where the turbo is?

A brown box....

[LS1ow]

Knocked out some more work sunday. ended up having to redo the position of the tabs to grab the front bumper. Thankfully i only had them tac'd. In addition to pretty much finishing the main tube structure, i was able to get the headlamps fitted.

Main rad support is 1.75", bumper support cross bar is 1" and braces from rad support to bumper bar are .75"

as of now, the entire tube assembly is welded, and the tabs are tac'd on.

After shaking it vigorously, i stood on it and didnt budge. and i am a large being. So i think we are good to go here.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837501612_97b8f7a449_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837501002_fe065f73c4_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837501782_b57c26d57f_z.jpg

**this pic just screams drift car to me. so excited.***

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40923113703_456e2d17df_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47889427231_6c17e54101_z.jpg

gaps are a bit off, but everything is slotted so it can all be adjusted when its completed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47837497852_1a971c0c1f_z.jpg

[KirkEvil]

https://media1.tenor.com/images/ec2c0ce42c425e138794309260e8862e/tenor.gif?itemid=12367899

[sweetbmxrider]

https://media.tenor.com/images/fa0d289bf32de5405f99f18d9768fed6/tenor.gif

[LTb1ow]

Looking good man, glad to see it working for you

[IROCZman15]

get that thing road worthy and bring it to the autocross event June 2 in PA. swap some wheels and tires and let it eat up some corners

[BonzoHansen]

get that thing road worthy and bring it to the autocross event June 2 in PA. swap some wheels and tires and let it eat up some corners
:kneeslap:

[B4C]

get that thing road worthy and bring it to the autocross event June 2 in PA. swap some wheels and tires and let it eat up some corners

Maybe that wouldn't end well lol. Seems like it's setup to go straight, not corner.

[IROCZman15]

understood. i know this. i'm just trying to get some more people to come out sunday. was worth a shot

[LS1ow]

This is will not be bombing turns at any point !

[LS1ow]

a lot of life happening in the past 2 weeks so i haven't had much time at all to tinker.

had some time the other day to tac some tabs in place for the catch can to be mounted to, and also make a bracket for the overflow tank.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47965277623_a91efb8b00_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47965252032_c6515265ab_z.jpg

Next ill tackle how to keep the fuse box in 1 spot, or decide if i want to really open up a can of worms and bring it inside.

[LTb1ow]

You are gonna mount an overflow tank that near to your front tire?

You cray cray

[LS1ow]

You are gonna mount an overflow tank that near to your front tire?

You cray cray

It sits much more inboard that the pic looks. 12" of hose will have it dumping in the center of the car

[The_Bishop]

I like the safety flip-flops with the pink socks.

[sweetbmxrider]

Def get racecar fuse panel. So. Nice.

[LTb1ow]

It sits much more inboard that the pic looks. 12" of hose will have it dumping in the center of the car

Ok, just would hate to have a popped HG blow coolant all under your front wheels.

Def get racecar fuse panel. So. Nice.

This.

If you can tackle it, I would say go for it. I think Leash is no longer taking new orders but I do like my boards from him.

[LS1ow]

Ok, just would hate to have a popped HG blow coolant all under your front wheels.



This.

If you can tackle it, I would say go for it. I think Leash is no longer taking new orders but I do like my boards from him.

Ive figured out a way to mount the existing one. I dont want to open the can of worms that is redoing a fuse box right now. Could be a winter project.

[LS1ow]

Im going to end up going with 2 Efans and ditch the stock set up, can i wire them in to the factory fan harness ?

[sweetbmxrider]

Yes, depending how you want it all to function. Swapping fans for fans with stock function will work with stock wiring so long as they aren't demanding some crazy amps.

[LTb1ow]

Yes, depending how you want it all to function. Swapping fans for fans with stock function will work with stock wiring so long as they aren't demanding some crazy amps.

This is true in theory but be safe and just wire heavy duty 30-40amp relays for main power and use stock trigger signals for em.

I took signal right off PCM for fan relays. (This is not 100% "correct" as you lose the mixing half speed stock relays can do)

[LS1ow]

This is true in theory but be safe and just wire heavy duty 30-40amp relays for main power and use stock trigger signals for em.

I took signal right off PCM for fan relays. (This is not 100% "correct" as you lose the mixing half speed stock relays can do)

provide me with a diagram of what to do cap'n


also... recommended fans? Pullers.

[LTb1ow]

PCM Blue 42 (green wire) is low speed trigger
PCM Red 33 (blue wire) is high speed trigger

So use them to trigger a standard 30amp relay. But remember factory PCM stuff is ground signals not hot signal.

I have had good luck with derale stuff, but honestly, if you can make OEM fans fit, they are by far the best.

[LS1ow]

PCM Blue 42 (green wire) is low speed trigger
PCM Red 33 (blue wire) is high speed trigger

So use them to trigger a standard 30amp relay. But remember factory PCM stuff is ground signals not hot signal.

I have had good luck with derale stuff, but honestly, if you can make OEM fans fit, they are by far the best.

thread on tech had some folks saying they used OEM fans with the griffen but i have no idea how.

[LTb1ow]

thread on tech had some folks saying they used OEM fans with the griffen but i have no idea how.

If you can find out how, its gonna save you a few hundred. So, maybe look brah.

[LS1ow]

If you can find out how, its gonna save you a few hundred. So, maybe look brah.

from what i find, the stock fans are 26x18.5... but the rad is 27x15.

Maybe some creative cutting? Also still no way to mount it to the rad without some more tig work.

[LTb1ow]

from what i find, the stock fans are 26x18.5... but the rad is 27x15.

Maybe some creative cutting? Also still no way to mount it to the rad without some more tig work.

I see no problem here.

Worst case, you ruin the OE fans you hadn't planned on using.

[KirkEvil]

mighty mouse makes a fan shroud for the TBSS with cutouts for stock ls1 and lt1 fbody fans. you could probably buy that and cut the width to match the griffin rad

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/tbss-e-fan-shroud

[LS1ow]

mighty mouse makes a fan shroud for the TBSS with cutouts for stock ls1 and lt1 fbody fans. you could probably buy that and cut the width to match the griffin rad

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/tbss-e-fan-shroud


hmmm, that doesnt look like to bad of an option. But, how the hell do you reuse the LS1 fans? They are molded into the shroud.

[Blackbirdws6]

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/prev/Z332sxfo5oz.JPG

[BonzoHansen]

hmmm, that doesnt look like to bad of an option. But, how the hell do you reuse the LS1 fans? They are molded into the shroud.
there is a picture right in the tbss link above. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/dddf24_ab0262dee8c94b399f45a7caf45edbce.jpg/v1/fill/w_497,h_373,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/dddf24_ab0262dee8c94b399f45a7caf45edbce.webp

all 4th gen fans are the same give or take minor differences. the fan motor/blade/housing assembly bolts to the shroud. where are your factory fans?

if you can OE fans are the way to go.

LT1 fans in my 77:

[LS1ow]

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/prev/Z332sxfo5oz.JPG

stop that.

there is a picture right in the tbss link above. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/dddf24_ab0262dee8c94b399f45a7caf45edbce.jpg/v1/fill/w_497,h_373,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/dddf24_ab0262dee8c94b399f45a7caf45edbce.webp

all 4th gen fans are the same give or take minor differences. the fan motor/blade/housing assembly bolts to the shroud. where are your factory fans?

if you can OE fans are the way to go.

LT1 fans in my 77:

I still have the OE fans, but they are LS1 fans. They dont come appart like the LT1 fans appear to do.

LT1 fans- you can see the 4 bolts per fan, so i assume they just unbolt from the shroud

https://fbodywarehouse.com/store/images/product/1993-1994-1995-1996-1997-camaro-trans-am-v8-LT1-cooling-fan-set-GM-fbodywarehouse-1.jpg

LS1 Fans - no bolts, look like they are molded in as 1 piece.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/attachments/gm-parts-classifieds-23/85375d1501207627-ls1-f-body-electric-fans-image_zpsgrfhcy1d.jpeg

[LS1ow]

seems like a dumb question... but can i just buy LT1 fans and mount them to the rad using the zip tie like things that a spal fan or similar would mount?

these joints?

https://images.rallysportdirect.com/image/private/s--8NZjoDoj--/f_auto,t_auto_rsd_product/v1436952259/product_images/mis_mmfan_mount_1

[LTb1ow]

You could, but I would personally recommend making a aluminum shroud for them.

Having fans just "on" the radiator is not nearly as good as a proper shroud.

If you can chop the front off your car, cutting a shroud should be easy work.

[LS1ow]

You could, but I would personally recommend making a aluminum shroud for them.

Having fans just "on" the radiator is not nearly as good as a proper shroud.

If you can chop the front off your car, cutting a shroud should be easy work.

Ok, so going to pull trigger on LT1 E-Fans, get them here, and look into making a shroud

[LTb1ow]

Ok, so going to pull trigger on LT1 E-Fans, get them here, and look into making a shroud

Unless..

Mech Fan setup from a truck!

[LS1ow]

Unless..

Mech Fan setup from a truck!

I’ll bolt it right up to my electric wp.


After work I will once over the LS1 fans VS Rad and see what entails, if possibru will devise something. If not, tommorw we get to spend moar of my $$

[LTb1ow]

I’ll bolt it right up to my electric wp.


After work I will once over the LS1 fans VS Rad and see what entails, if possibru will devise something. If not, tommorw we get to spend moar of my $$

Used LTX fans all hella cheaper than Derales.

[LS1ow]

Used LTX fans all hella cheaper than Derales.

Was going to buy used set of eBay just now and then saw it was $50 shipping for $70 fans that don’t look to be in too good of a condition

[LS1ow]

meh ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4850

[LS1ow]

mehh?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmfs-rx-ls?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-mishimoto&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrdjnBRDXARIsAEcE5YmRo0_f7O3zQ1WMEe4P Nzvo9enQMUC-oZGQdP0pt-od3EsFQgGwtx8aAl8dEALw_wcB

[BonzoHansen]

i didn't realize they changes that shroud. Cheap skates at GM lol.

i'd really at least try to make 4th gen fans work first before spending $$$$.

I run a mishimito 3 row rad in the 77, seems quite nice. No problems so far. Got a killer deal at JSP.

I would not touch no-name or cheap fans. But you have a drag car so you might get away with cheaper fans.

[wretched73]

I'd take a jigsaw to that plastic shroud in a heartbeat. Cut little tabs out so you can bolt them to the alum shroud just like the LT1 fans.

See if stock truck fans would fit, like '05 silverado

[sweetbmxrider]

I'm not amused by your lack of creativity....

[LS1ow]

Alright so OEM fans are a no go. No matter the orientation they stick out to much for my liking. Looks like crap


Thoughts on Mishimoto shroud and fans posted earlier?

Or do I just run 2 spal/deral fans and possibru make my own shroud

[V]

I was gonna say, I have a pile of lt fans you could have

[LS1ow]

I was gonna say, I have a pile of lt fans you could have

Do you have any LT1 fan set ups? Ill take a ride up.

If I have go build a shroud, I’d like to use LT1 stuff so I do not need to mess with the wiring

[LTb1ow]

Spal or Derale. Don't cheap out on fans.

I can make it home on one derale fan, its nice insurance.

[V]

I'll go to my garage tomorrow and take pics of what I still got.

[LS1ow]

Spal or Derale. Don't cheap out on fans.

I can make it home on one derale fan, its nice insurance.

link me to what you got sir. Do you run a shroud on yours?

I'll go to my garage tomorrow and take pics of what I still got.

That would be perfect, thank ya.

[LTb1ow]

link me to what you got sir. Do you run a shroud on yours?



That would be perfect, thank ya.

Two of these
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16925?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-derale-cooling-products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIucuShq3S4gIVSCSGCh3ZJQ42EAYYASAB EgJb1fD_BwE

No shroud.

[LS1ow]

Two of these
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16925?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-derale-cooling-products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIucuShq3S4gIVSCSGCh3ZJQ42EAYYASAB EgJb1fD_BwE

No shroud.

Must find puller version of this

[LS1ow]

uhm, how come pusher fans move so much more than pullers?

[LS1ow]

think 2 of these will suffice ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-18212

[LS1ow]

paul is a mad man and has enough fans to build a blimp, so ill be snagging some LT1 sets from him and seeing if i can fit them to the rad.

If not, i will be remaking the rad hold down so i can run pushers instead of pullers.

[wretched73]

Why pushers? AFAIK, they only effectively cool the center of the rad where they are placed. A puller with a shroud moves more air over the entire rad.

An engineer is welcome to chime in here

[LS1ow]

Why pushers? AFAIK, they only effectively cool the center of the rad where they are placed. A puller with a shroud moves more air over the entire rad.

An engineer is welcome to chime in here

for some reason a pusher has a much higher CFM than a puller of the same size

[LTb1ow]

for some reason a pusher has a much higher CFM than a puller of the same size

Don't always base things off CFM. I know that makes no sense, but, there is no standard for testing that and many companies will make the results look great.

IE, air filters.. companies advertise their filter flows 1000cfm over stock, but, small print is that its qualities as a filter mimic those of a cheese grater.

Pushers will never be as efficient as properly setup pullers. But, overkill is the name of the game, and you aren't designing this thing for MPG.

[LS1ow]

Don't always base things off CFM. I know that makes no sense, but, there is no standard for testing that and many companies will make the results look great.

IE, air filters.. companies advertise their filter flows 1000cfm over stock, but, small print is that its qualities as a filter mimic those of a cheese grater.

Pushers will never be as efficient as properly setup pullers. But, overkill is the name of the game, and you aren't designing this thing for MPG.

Well hopefully i can get the LT1 fans so fit some how. Or maybe worst case run 1 OEM LT1 fan and then a smaller aftermarket one if i cant fit both on there.

one of the main reasons i want to run the LT1 stuff is the fact i dont need to change the wiring.

[LS1ow]

Okay so there is no way to run 2 LT1 fans on the rad. I have enough room to fit an additional 9” fan, that’s it.

So do I run 1 LT1 fan as the “main fan” and then grab a 9” Spal/Derale as the “high” fan. Plan would be run the LT1 fan off stock wiring, then wire the other fan in using relay. Using the factory “high” fan signal as a trigger to turn it on.

Or

Run 2 12” Fans, and have to wire the hole thing.



I would be building a shroud for either one.

[wretched73]

Okay so there is no way to run 2 LT1 fans on the rad. I have enough room to fit an additional 9” fan, that’s it.

So do I run 1 LT1 fan as the “main fan” and then grab a 9” Spal/Derale as the “high” fan. Plan would be run the LT1 fan off stock wiring, then wire the other fan in using relay. Using the factory “high” fan signal as a trigger to turn it on.

Or

Run 2 12” Fans, and have to wire the hole thing.



I would be building a shroud for either one.

That sounds like a solid plan.

[LTb1ow]

Either way, you cannot do what you have laid out without wiring.

Factory fan control is pretty nifty, three relays allow the PCM to command low and have both fans on half speed, than high, and have both on full speed.

So you would need to rewire that if you wanted a true "high" and "low" fan setup. Which is easy, like I said, two robust relays and some wiring.

[LS1ow]

Either way, you cannot do what you have laid out without wiring.

Factory fan control is pretty nifty, three relays allow the PCM to command low and have both fans on half speed, than high, and have both on full speed.

So you would need to rewire that if you wanted a true "high" and "low" fan setup. Which is easy, like I said, two robust relays and some wiring.

i should have known it wouldn't be simple lol

do i just bite the bullet.

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/griffin-x-stand-up-e-fan-shroud

[Blackbirdws6]

i should have known it wouldn't be simple lol

do i just bite the bullet.

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/griffin-x-stand-up-e-fan-shroud

The answer is always "add to cart"

[LS1ow]

does a turbo count as a puller fan

[Blackbirdws6]

does a turbo count as a puller fan

Yes but need to add to of them for redundancy and freedom

[LS1ow]

This wiring kit suffice for my needs?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16765/overview/


also, ordered the MightyMouse shroud

[LS1ow]

some more work done in the past week. All fab is pretty much done. Just need to get everything fully welded in.

Some pencil rod to grab the top of the rad and hold it in place. Rad will be grabbed with some channel brackets, brackets will bolt to this piece.

Also made a catch for the hood latch. After seeing Fay's firebird hood rip up at the beams, i did not want to take any chances on not running a safety catch.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024962806_7da95114ec_z.jpg

pencil rod is your friend. Made some brackets for the fuse box to sit on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024961736_09bd78cb44_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48025066187_c7af4906a5_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024962126_224c908681_z.jpg

box will nut and bolt to tabs welded onto rod and sit like this. Fuse panels them self clip into the box as normal.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024990108_2be7d3da52_z.jpg

Also threw some tabs across the bottom to pick up the air dam... which i need. So if anyone has one sitting around let me know.

Tabs on top are for trans cooler mounting.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48025066292_6b6f96e9a9_z.jpg

Then began to strip back harness to figure out wiring. Did not want to come across top of rad support, so plan on having harness head to back of car out of fuse box instead of front. Then run it in the wiper cowl to the passenger side. and connect the 3 connectors there. The ones that are normally in the passenger wheel well for wire tuck. I dont think any wires will need to be extended other than the wires for the lighting on the passenger. which is not a problem since its only about 10 wires.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024962871_d85ac9e206_z.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Bad ass work, coming out nice.

[Blackbirdws6]

Good work man. Can't wait until Kirk gets to run his sawzall through the roof.

[LTb1ow]

da faq are the updates?

[LS1ow]

da faq are the updates?

awaiting fan shroud from mighty mouse.

[LS1ow]

busted out the welder again to add some more stuff and decided may as well just finish off everything.

So here you have it, the final(almost) product. I say almost, bc after i finished i realized i didnt run anything to grab the bumper from the bottom right infront of the tire. So today i will run some rod with a tab over there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052745291_e9ed7d5b1d_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052790673_44be27603d_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052745376_9e918d2fa3_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052790648_f9ee6541b5_z.jpg

tabs for new hood pins. Going to run both the Aerocatch set up ive been running, but im also adding a second set of regular style hood pins. Seeing what happened to Mike Fay scares me lol

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052834767_7464d7358a_z.jpg

and tossed a tow point/strap mount onto the main hoop right off the factory frame rail. Ill be able to run an extra strap to these while its on the trailer for added straptivity. :bertstare:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052834672_6fae8e6b0e_z.jpg


Will do lower bumper brace tab today hopefully, then tomorrow scuff and prime. then paint.

[LS1ow]

https://www.tdworld.com/sites/tdworld.com/files/styles/article_featured_standard/public/uploads/2015/09/are-you-not-entertained-w-text-720x396.jpg?itok=EWBMvG-j

[wretched73]

I think everyone is very impressed that this is going so smoothly

[sweetbmxrider]

Very excited to see it run lean on the 200 shot and blow the welds on the hood pins.

[Blackbirdws6]

I'm just patiently waiting for the twin Nagasaki tornadoes to make their appearance.

[BonzoHansen]

I'm just patiently waiting for the twin Shanghai tornadoes to make their appearance.

fixed

[Blackbirdws6]

fixed

Now that's what I call proper moderation!

[ar0ck]

Thank you Beggs, very cool!

[LS1ow]

Seems like a silly question, but while extending the lighting harness, so i need to extend all the ground for the lights as well? Or i can i just run new grounds to a spot close to the lights. Instead of having to extended 4 wires 6ft, id rather just run 4 little 1ft ground wires.

But i know some things on the car are powered by the ground being completed, so i just want to confirm.

[Blackbirdws6]

If the grounds are a separate connection, they can go anywhere so no need to extend. If they are part of a connector, I'd extend it with everything else.

[LS1ow]

If the grounds are a separate connection, they can go anywhere so no need to extend. If they are part of a connector, I'd extend it with everything else.

Well its all lighting stuff. So i wanted to get away with just extending the signal/power wires to reach the lights, and then just have a short ground wire for every light. I dont want to have to run 60ft of wire and make 12 connections if i only have to run 30ft of wire lol